Last ride 76 

OK I was wrong. I am editing this post to remove my rant about engineers in general. It was dumb. The "in general part", specific truck issue maybe, but silly to generalize like I did. Someone took offense, and called me out on it, in a PM.

Ok, while I'm waiting for the PB Blaster to work so I can remove the hub locknut, someone please tell me why this freewheel was designed like this. I don't understand. Or perhaps just a who cares about you, anyway? (Truck batteries with almost inaccessible side mounted terminals runs right up there...) Does anyone remember Peter Cook's first appearance in Bedazzled? If anyone knows, please pass it on.

More revealed below...




Just brilliant, or am I really missing something?

WTF? Why?

Eric

Kuromori

Are you sure that's not just a uniglide cassette?

3alarmer 

...this.

miamijim

Is no freewheel. And that may be a UG/HG hub. September 1988 would make that a 1989 model year cassette.

pastorbobnlnh 

Absolutely a UniGlide cassette. The small sprocket threads on and off. OP will need two chain whips to remove.

machinist42

What everyone already wrote. I wanted the opportunity to "Julie Andrews!" is all.

"Mushroom" rounded/sloped nut suggests UG/HG, and a 130 spacing, but I can't see if there is interior threading.

ThermionicScott 

Brilliant, IMO. Just use two chainwhips in opposite directions to remove the top cog, and then the rest slide off without needing to remove the ratchet mechanism.

This particular design is a few years older than I am, so congrats on finally stumbling across one.

Last ride 76 

OK, I'm an ignorant git. One of the reasons I try not to go off on rants. I have 2 chain whips. Thx all!

The side mount battery posts on my truck still suck...

miamijim

Oh, come on....side mounts FTW.

Miele Man

I love UNIGLIDE cassettes. It's possible to remove the cogs with just one chain whip too. Leave the wheel on the bike, put the chain onto the largest cog, put the chain whip onto the smallest cog and it'll unscrew. If you have trouble getting the smallest cog loose you can fasten the crank arm to a chainstay by using a toestrap or other strong strap or even strong cord.

Another neat hing with UNIGLIDE cassettes is that when the cogs (other than the smallest one) get worn you can flip them over and they're almost like new.

Cheers

masi61

The dust cap appears to be for a Shimano Uniglide freehub body. I don't believe it is a Dura Ace model because those said "Dura Ace" right on it and also had 2 little holes, 180 degrees from one another (that could be opened and closed) and then be used as micro grease ports to inject grease into the bearings with a micro grease gun.

If you are setting out to repack the wheel bearings, it is not necessary to remove the cassette cogs. All you need to do is to use your 15mm cone wrench and the correct locknut wrench and undo the non-drive side locknut and cone from the axle, then slide out the entire rest of the axle assembly from the drive side. You can then pull out the ball bearings and either remove the dust caps (carefully) or just leave the dust caps in place - your choice.

If you want to remove the cassette cogs - it is just as the others have said - use 2 chain whips and spin off the threaded outer cog. Then the remaining cogs merely slide right off the splines. Very ingenious and in many ways a more versatile, long lasting system compared to todays HG freehubs which use a Hyperglide lockring. I personally really love old Uniglide stuff. The removal of the freehub does require a special tool which is out of production but can be found on ebay at a premium price. I believe that some people have made their own cogged freehub removal tool or there may be a Chinese vendor making a knock-off that works.

Last ride 76 

Ok Thanks, it all ties together. I had no idea that freehubs were available as early as they were. ("Apres moi, la deluge") The hubs are Shimano 6400 series as were the rest of the parts, on a Gios Nuovo Compact, except for the RD which was a budget Shimano unit with the pie plate size lower jockey wheel presumably to expand the potential gear range. Was thinking maybe a Victory group...on a Red Frame.

Reynolds 531 

I thread in 5/16 studs, bottomed out, and then a brass washer and brass nut to clamp them without stripping the lead recess.

Last ride 76 

That should make grabbing the posts easier. Thx for the suggestion. I already removed the ridiculous rubber housing.

dedhed

SAme thing here except I just use a short SS bolt with a nut on it. That gives me 2 hex heads for jumper cables etc.

Road Fan

Could you have just said "I don't get these sprockets. How do I get them off?"

Last ride 76 

Having read a couple of uniglide threads, I realized the Sante wheels that I have might be free hubs too. I don't use the wheels this season. Used them mostly for test riding C-list bikes before that.
Yup. I have twins..

ThermionicScott 

Was that a Regina Spektor reference, Last ride 76 ? Love her.

Dan Burkhart 

I'll see your Julie Andrews and raise you a Sonja Henny's tutu.

Last ride 76 

Sure, I could have... But believing it to be a freewheel (never having seen a free hub without a lock ring) I did not.

Dfrost 

My ‘79 Miyata 912, purchased new, had the first cassette (6 cogs) that I’d seen as part of its 600EX “arabesque” group. Everything else in the Miyata catalog back then had a 5-cog freewheel, including the 1200 (no Team Miyata yet). What’s surprising is that they didn’t make a bigger deal about it and the improvements in axle strength and gearing variations it would instigate. Shimano seemed just as thrilled with the “hatch plate” on the RD and “one-key release” for the crank bolts.