Originally Posted by ghettocruiser

<clipety clip>
The repainting thing is just Trek making stuff up, but frame warranties seem to be a thing of the past generally, as noted by earlier posters.

Originally Posted by some_guy282

You know, I was kind of thinking the same thing months ago when I was looking at new bikes. A cyclocross bike seemed like a nice compromise for my needs. I do want something with that can accomodate thicker tires though, which is why I was kind of drawn to the Bad Boy as another type of compromise. How many of my mountain components could I use on a cyclocross frame? I'm still open to any suggestions on new bikes/frames.

Originally Posted by ghettocruiser

Hmm. I actually have a pile of cracked steel frames in my basement and ride all aluminum these days.

Originally Posted by moxfyre

basically it's a knockoff of the Surly Cross Check.

Originally Posted by some_guy282

I was hearing lots of nice things about the cross check and looking at it seriously until I realized it doesn't accept disc brakes.

I loves me some disc brakes. The nashbar frame seems to take them though....

Originally Posted by some_guy282

Pretty fast response from Trek.

Pretty much what I expected.

Re using my parts is exactly what I'd like to do. I love my current shifters, derailer, breaks, grips, pedals, etc.. However I believe that with buying a new frame there is a good chance some of my current parts wont fit like the seatpost, seatpost clamp, bottom bracket, and fork. I'm prepared to buy new components for all of these things though in the event of getting a new frame. And if I do end up buying a totally new bike, I'll transfer as many of my old components over as possible.

Possible stupid question about the Furio (Bad Boy) frame in relation to other frames. I noticed the Furio frame can accomodate mountain and road wheels. Can all MTB frames do this? I was thinking of getting a set of road wheels for the spring and summer, and switching over to my mountain wheels for the winter...

Originally Posted by some_guy282

...Any suggestions on what I should get, and what would be the most cost effective way of going about it?...

Originally Posted by CBBaron

A cyclocross bike is a perfect use for a B-17.
Actually nearly any bike is a good use for a B-17. The possible exceptions are for agressive off-road riding (its difficult to get behind the wide B17) and for an ultra light roadie (B17s are not light saddles).
If you don't mind going for new wheels then many other components should be transferable.
Most MTBs have enough clearance than they could fit a narrow 700c tire. The only requirement is that you have to have a 700c wheelset with disc brakes. This may require a special built wheel as road and cyclocross wheelsets do not usually have disc compatible hubs.
Craig

Originally Posted by radical_edward

Cross frames with disc mounts will all be able to take 135m rear mtb hub spacing. If you such a frame, build it with the flat bars and componentry off the trek (even the 26" wheels) and replace the parts over time.

Originally Posted by some_guy282

Sweet. I didn't think the Cross frame would take the 26 inch wheels. If it will then that'll save me a bunch for now, and I can wait to get the new set of wheels until after the winter.

Question about drivetrain compatibility. Can I mix a mountain bike rear derailer (my SRAM X7) and shifters with a smaller road casette?

Originally Posted by some_guy282

Question about drivetrain compatibility. Can I mix a mountain bike rear derailer (my SRAM X7) and shifters with a smaller road casette?

Originally Posted by moxfyre

Yes. The spacing of Shimano and SRAM cassettes is the same for a given number of cogs, regardless of whether it's road or mountain. (E.g. all Shimano/SRAM 8-speed cassettes have same spacing, all 9-speed cassettes have same spacing, etc.)

Originally Posted by some_guy282

After serving me well for two and a half years, I discovered a crack on the frame of my Trek 4500 while it was on the stand in the shop for another repair. Time to get a new frame

Earlier this year I was bitten by the bug and was tempted to buy a new bike. From my looking around I was gravitating to the Cannondale Bad Boy as it seemed a good all around bike, but common sense took over again and I realized I didn't need a new bike and decided to just save my money.

To give you an idea of the kind of riding I do, I live in NYC and commute year round. In addition I use my bike for the majority of my traveling - beats the train and the bus. I got the 4500 originally because I'm comfortable with mountain bikes from my childhood. I thought I might get around to heading out to some mountain trails after I got the bike, but that never happened. All the recreational riding I've done since I've had the bike have been the organized rides in the city (Five Borough Tour, etc.) Although I switched to 1.5 slicks long ago, I could probably go without a suspencion fork (one of the things I liked about the Bad Boy is the lockout ability, although I'd probably be just as good with a rigid fork).

Any suggestions on what I should get, and what would be the most cost effective way of going about it? With the Bad Boy for instance, I could afford the Disc or Ultra versions, but some of the most important parts would be redundant for me (I already have SRAM X-7 shifters/rear derailer, and Avid BB7 disc brakes). I'm doubtful I would make much by selling the extras on eBay. The other option is of course to just buy the frame by itself (Cannondale Furio) but it's my understanding that it would be pretty expensive (about $600) in comparison to just buying a complete bike...

I'm open to suggestions other than the Bad Boy. Any and all help appreciated.

Thanks

Originally Posted by some_guy282

I already have some Avid BB7 disc brakes on my current bike and I'm very happy with them.

Thanks for all your help so far guys. You've been very informative. I'll probably have the new setup sooner rather than later. My new credit card statement begins in two days so I might start buying things by the end of the week. And no, I wont carry a balance. I never do.

Originally Posted by substructure

I noticed a small chip near one of the water bottle cage eyelets on the seat tube of my C'dale. While riding home one day, I noticed a crackling noise while pedaling. I got off the bike wiggled the cage and it made the same noise. When I got home, I took the cage off to clean around the eyelets and noticed the chip and that the eyelet (or whatever you call it) was a bit loose as well.

The bike was bought from a friend, so I'm not the original owner. Thus, making a trade in void.

So, I'm in the same boat as you, my friend. Unfortunately, I cannot afford anything yet - or anytime soon.

Good luck with your situation. I hope you get what you want out of this.

Originally Posted by moxfyre

In high-end steel frames, the water bottle bosses are usually brazed in place, which makes them virtually indestructable, and they actually provide support to the surrounding tube.

In aluminum frames and cheaper steel frames, the bottle bosses are often simply holes into which a threaded rivet ("RivNut") has been inserted. The rivets can work themselves loose. A loose rivet isn't a structural problem, since the rivets don't strengthen the frame at all. You can probably immobilize the rivets with an appropriate adhesive.

You might want to check out this thread about riveted bottle bosses, https://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=162158