Robert A

Do the front or rear derailleurs need to be adjusted after switching from 11-30 to 11-32 and replacing the chain?

Robert A

Do you have the OPI Spiderring? If so, what did the replacement end up costing?

For me, 52x11 is very long. I use it rarely, and only on long descents.

Wilmingtech

Not normally. Maybe a slight adjustment to the b-screw but probably not needed depending on how close the deraileur rides to the 30. But you should resize the chain.

Robert A

Well, turns out that I have a short-cage derailleur (says "SS" on the backside). So factory spec goes to 30t. I assume this means a derailleur change, or I have to swap chainrings (ouch!) to get a lower gear, or I live with what I have.

Newspaper_Nick

You need this: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink

Robert A

Are there any downsides?

rm -rf

Even if a $20 chainring fits the OP's crank, it may not shift as well as a matched set. The sets are usually designed with teeth and pickup pins in a specific rotational location.


There's no 29 sprocket. It's 28. The gearing is:
11-12-13-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32

I'd try the 32, even though it's out of the official range. Riders have had very good results with cassettes that were too big for their derailleur specs. I'd be very surprised if it didn't work.
[B]

Robert A

You're right. My 11-30 has 27t in the second to last position. The 11-32 has 28t.

rm -rf

Short or medium cage
Does a medium cage move the top pulley downward, to accommodate larger sprockets? Or is it just for the chain wrap capacity?

My 6870 Di2 came with a 11-28. The 32 I'm using looks like it's too close to the 32 sprocket, but it shifts perfectly. I'm sure the 32 is out of range.

A longer cage allows more chain wrap between the pulleys, for a bigger range from small-small to big-big combos.

The critical thing is to make sure the chain is long enough for the big-big combination. Riders don't normally use it, but it's very easy to (accidentally) shift into it while riding. There needs to be at least a slight angle where the chain is between the pulleys -- it can't be stretched out completely straight, or the shifting will jam.

A little slack on the small-small isn't critical, and it's very unlikely with a change from 30 to 32.

You might even be able to use the same chain length, if the 11-30 setup had a reasonable amount of chain on the big-big combo.

Test it!
With the rear wheel off the ground, using the big chainring and a middle cassette gear, turn the crank by hand, and "carefully" shift into the 32. Shift out and back a few times -- is it smooth? Then try it at low speeds in a parking lot or similar.

BengalCat

You can never have too many gears, so to speak. The last thing one never wants to experience is except in an aberrational situation is to run out of gears on a climb.

I run a 50/34 11-40 eleven speed.

bruce19

Mine came with an FSA crank set. For two new rings, a new chain and the labor (and tax) it cost me $165 at my LBS.

Seattle Forrest

If you're keeping the old wheels as spares, for sure leave the cassette on them and get a new one for the new wheels.

colnago62

I ride Trek frames with Shimano components. I have, years, ridden larger cassettes than Shimano specifies. Generally, with Shimano you can go 2 teeth larger than they recommend. A lot of does have to do with the length of your derailleur hanger.

mstateglfr 

I used one for 4 years on a gravel bike- it shifted perfectly. Fast and accurate for years. It's a simple piece of aluminum, not at all technical or complex.

nomadmax 

HOW you climb during your rides (IE intensity & efficiency) is more important than how much elevation is gained when it comes to increasing performance. I wouldn't make a two tooth change, you've probably got that left on the fitness table.

Robert A

I climb about as hard as I can without completely exhausting myself. I've put a solid year into training and have climbed 115k feet YTD, so I've gotten to understand my abilities. I can live with 11-30 and 52-36, but one more cog will be useful on those >10% climbs.

Newspaper_Nick

Look man, if you are in your twenties, just deal with it. You don't really need that 32 yet. Wait until you get to your thirties. Then you can get it. And you can go 1x with dinner plate cogs when you are in your fifties Don't think much about it. We are all headed to the same destination.

Robert A

I'm over 60.

Newspaper_Nick

Dude, you are way too late Go get that 32.

Robert A

Forget your preconceived notions of older cyclists. The guys I ride with keep 100% pace with the LaGrange folks of West Los Angeles, many of whom are 20-40 years old. My own speed and climbing ability is just native to my power/weight, which I'm working steadily to improve. Little has to do with age.

Robert A

Ive only been riding since 2015 and got serious about it a year ago. So I’m pretty new to things.

WhyFi

I guess NN thought better of his asinine comment. Kudos.

Newspaper_Nick

Yep. But too late

Rides4Beer

FWIW, my old road bike had 52/36 and 11-30. Went with 50/34 and 11-34 on the new bike and it is perfect for me. Plenty of gear for climbing and no appreciable loss of topend. If I'm spinning out the 50-11 then I'm going downhill and at that point I just tuck in and enjoy the ride. I haven't noticed any issues with "gaps" in the gearing.

WhyFi

For me, gaps are only an issue in group rides and most they're most problematic when I'm juuuust hanging on to the group; it's the worst when one gear has your legs screaming and the next gear has them spinning wildly and there's no happy medium in between. Oh, the same applies to intervals on trainers without ERG mode. For solo rides? No problem - easing slightly and slowing .5mph doesn't mean losing the draft and having the group pull away from you.