ccd1977

What road bike or clyclo cross bike are my fellow uber clydes riding? I am trying to sell my SS 29er for a roadie and am curious to what is needed for my 360lb frame.

mtalinm

trek bikes top out at 275, so I am trying to get down to that level

acpeeps

anything with a strong wheelset......I was over 300 and riding my 30 y/o steel road bike....just with a good stout wheelset

Mazama

I rode a Trek 7200 for 2+ years/7500 miles at 340#. I never had an issue (other than a popped spoke). I still have the bike, but my wife bought me a custom build a few years ago.

CliftonGK1

A friend of mine is in the uber class and has a Trek 7200 and a Trek 520. Aside from swapping out for a custom Peter White 40h wheelset on the 520 after some problems with the original wheels, both bikes have served him well.

ccd1977

This is encouraging. I have heard much about manufactuing weight limitations and such. Keep em coming. I am researching this stuff as we speak. This is good.

Redeemed07

Late 90's Specialized Hardrock Classic. All stock as far as I know. I don't know my weight but I think I'm between 350 and 375. This bike better stay together until I can decide what touring bike I want. I've ridden off low curbs I think twice It's handling me pretty well so far. I'm currently considering a Kona Smoke or a KHS Urban-X.

Nope not road bikes but I'm replying to your topic, not your post

SambaMixte

I had a Trek 830 Antelope 26" for years with no problems, weight going from 230 to 345, now on 3rd year with a Jamis Auroa (touring bike), 700c wheels. I'm down to 331 and the only problems I have currently is popping spokes on the rear wheel- 36 hole. Replaced the wheel last year and started this season with more spokes popping. Replaced issue spokes with Dt swiss Alpines 3's. I hope this solves the problem, as the next step is rebuilding the rear wheel with a 48 spoke hub and rim, which is $350 more than I want to spend. I have never had problems with the 26" wheel tandem either, despite a team weight near 500 lbs.

Aeneas

I have two bikes I ride regularly. I have a mid 90 Specialized Hardrock that I have converted to a commuter and a 2007 Jamis Aurora that I use for longer and faster rides and some light touring. At my weight (320 lbs, 355 last year), I've found that I really like steel bikes as they offer a bit more flex than aluminum. Now the rear wheel on the Aurora keep popping spokes, or rather, I keep popping spokes on the Aurora, so one day I'll rebuild the wheel (or have it rebuilt.) The Hardrock has given my no spoke popping problems, but I don't ride it as hard. This is my opinion though. When I came back to cycling I bought a Trek 7300 FX aluminum frame that I wanted to like, but it ended up hurting to ride, so I sold it and upgraded.

Recommended weight limits are just recommended limits. The biggest things are to find a bike that fits you and make sure there are at least 36 spokes on the rear wheel (40 may be better), then ride it! Working with a bike shop that has dealt with large riders before is important as fitting can be complicated. Touring and hybrid bikes tend to be preferred because hand positions tend to be higher and thus your not as scrunched over with your belly interfering with your pedaling motion (it happens!) Roadie racing style bikes may be too fragile for our uber-clydness, but not having the income disposable in this way I cannot make this statement with any first hand experience. Your bike store should ask you to bring the bike back after you've ridden 100 miles or so, at this time, make sure they go over the spoke tensions of the rear wheel, particularly on the non-drive side.

Looking back, if I were going to get a single bike, I'd probably get either a Surly Cross Check or a Long Haul Trucker. Either can be set up like a hybrid with upright positioning and wide enough tires or converted to a speedier roadie type bike with drop bars. If you live in an area with a LBS that can order the frame and components, they certainly can get you a good wheelset and appropriate components.