Vert to horizontal dropouts
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Vert to horizontal dropouts
how difficult is it to swap dropouts?
asking for a friend
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I have done it, but it was not something that I could imagine anyone would classify as fun. If you are looking for the advantage of not being able to pull the wheel forward, a much easier route would be to simply weld on a few little tabs at the front of the drop outs, like the ones that a lot of forks have.
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I have done it, but it was not something that I could imagine anyone would classify as fun. If you are looking for the advantage of not being able to pull the wheel forward, a much easier route would be to simply weld on a few little tabs at the front of the drop outs, like the ones that a lot of forks have.
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It's fussy work, but doable for an experienced builder. A beginner could possibly bumble their way through it and maybe end up with a usable frame. Henry James (see sources thread) has some conversion dropouts which are probably a good idea. It would be best if the donor frame doesn't have chrome on the rear triangle.
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It's fussy work, but doable for an experienced builder. A beginner could possibly bumble their way through it and maybe end up with a usable frame. Henry James (see sources thread) has some conversion dropouts which are probably a good idea. It would be best if the donor frame doesn't have chrome on the rear triangle.
#7
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It is difficult enough so a beginner should not try and do it without expert instruction and practice. It isn't a place to start. It is easier to go from vertical to horizontal than the other way around however.
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I would go the route of a White Industries Eno hub that has eccentric axle to allow for tightening the chain.
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Thanks all.
I had the idea this was one of those topics that, if you have to ask, the answer is no.
Just to add some color - I am looking for an affordable frame with canti brakes for ss cx racing but also compatible with 700c rims (I have a set I want to use) and horizontal dropouts so I can easily put back to a geared bike in case I hate racing ss or make it a touring bike in case I hate racing period (currently I only have my ss commuter, nothing for longer rides)
I will either have to make due with a 1/2 link setup or the eno hub by White Industries mentioned above or build a couple dedicated bikes.
I had the idea this was one of those topics that, if you have to ask, the answer is no.
Just to add some color - I am looking for an affordable frame with canti brakes for ss cx racing but also compatible with 700c rims (I have a set I want to use) and horizontal dropouts so I can easily put back to a geared bike in case I hate racing ss or make it a touring bike in case I hate racing period (currently I only have my ss commuter, nothing for longer rides)
I will either have to make due with a 1/2 link setup or the eno hub by White Industries mentioned above or build a couple dedicated bikes.
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You could also just replace the rear derailleur with a spring-loaded chain tensioner. You'll see this mod on a lot of CX and Mt Bikes that are converted to single speed; Surly Singleator, Paul Melvin, etc. Lots of choices.
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The single pulley tensioner is my solution for the next up bike/frame. An IGH with disks and a dynamo ft hub. But I'm not racing or riding at max force over rough stuff on it, or I hope not. Andy
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Just to add some color - I am looking for an affordable frame with canti brakes for ss cx racing but also compatible with 700c rims (I have a set I want to use) and horizontal dropouts so I can easily put back to a geared bike in case I hate racing ss or make it a touring bike in case I hate racing period (currently I only have my ss commuter, nothing for longer rides)
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I contemplated making this response but it's not helpful. And with adequate preparation and study, you could do it. It's a significant effort though and more expensive than it looks. I would say the rear dropouts are one of the things that new builders have the most trouble with, and adding the complication of having an existing rear triangle makes it significantly more difficult to do right. And in the end you need a paint job, which is expensive.
Seems like everything that surly makes has horizontal drops and Salsa has a lot of bikes that have adjustable dropouts. For canti, you are talking used or old stock for the most part, I think. OTOH, my LBS has some canti frames hanging from the walls. I suspect they would be willing to discount nowadays.
Seems like everything that surly makes has horizontal drops and Salsa has a lot of bikes that have adjustable dropouts. For canti, you are talking used or old stock for the most part, I think. OTOH, my LBS has some canti frames hanging from the walls. I suspect they would be willing to discount nowadays.
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I think my ideal frame at this point is a SS frame and if I decide to convert to touring go IGH or with an add on derailleur hanger
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Maybe a sign: guy just posted on craigslist bike parts a tensioner for $10. Been resisting that route but maybe it's time to just call it.
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I will probably wind up going the tensioner route on a standard vert dropout frame OR I just discovered Origin8 and a bunch of others make derailleur hangers for track type dropouts.
I think my ideal frame at this point is a SS frame and if I decide to convert to touring go IGH or with an add on derailleur hanger
I think my ideal frame at this point is a SS frame and if I decide to convert to touring go IGH or with an add on derailleur hanger
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#18
~>~
On any flavor of race bike that isn't used on a Velodrome fast reliable wheel changes can make the difference between DFL, DNF or a more respectable finish.
Vertical rear dropouts are the easiest, quickest and most unlikely to bodge a rear wheel change on, particularly under the pressure of an in-race wheel change.
Many of us warm up on the "B" wheels and install the race wheels before the start. Screwing that up is about the last thing up need when your class is being called to line up.
Reliable and light In That Order make for a good 'Cross bike in any racing class. Put a tensioner on vertical dropouts and have at it.
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Vertical rear dropouts are the easiest, quickest and most unlikely to bodge a rear wheel change on, particularly under the pressure of an in-race wheel change.
Many of us warm up on the "B" wheels and install the race wheels before the start. Screwing that up is about the last thing up need when your class is being called to line up.
Reliable and light In That Order make for a good 'Cross bike in any racing class. Put a tensioner on vertical dropouts and have at it.
-Bandera
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On any flavor of race bike that isn't used on a Velodrome fast reliable wheel changes can make the difference between DFL, DNF or a more respectable finish.
Vertical rear dropouts are the easiest, quickest and most unlikely to bodge a rear wheel change on, particularly under the pressure of an in-race wheel change.
Many of us warm up on the "B" wheels and install the race wheels before the start. Screwing that up is about the last thing up need when your class is being called to line up.
Reliable and light In That Order make for a good 'Cross bike in any racing class. Put a tensioner on vertical dropouts and have at it.
-Bandera
Vertical rear dropouts are the easiest, quickest and most unlikely to bodge a rear wheel change on, particularly under the pressure of an in-race wheel change.
Many of us warm up on the "B" wheels and install the race wheels before the start. Screwing that up is about the last thing up need when your class is being called to line up.
Reliable and light In That Order make for a good 'Cross bike in any racing class. Put a tensioner on vertical dropouts and have at it.
-Bandera
#20
~>~
Nothing like getting your tube changed, inflated and tire properly seated only to have to deflate it because with a horizontal dropout an inflated tire contacts the mudguard at the front of the dropout and will not allow the wheel to be reinstalled.
"Uh, got a CO2 cartridge I can borrow......"
-Bandera
#21
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Getting a frame with a broken right dropout and having a set of horizontal dropouts that's what I did..
30 years ago..
I could braze , do metalworking, and had built a frame from scratch with modest access to tools , , assistance and materials.. ..
Yes a spring-loaded chain tension-er is good ... I have 2 IGH bikes doing that..
You aren't, unstated , wanting to do another fixie conversion ?
....
30 years ago..
I could braze , do metalworking, and had built a frame from scratch with modest access to tools , , assistance and materials.. ..
Yes a spring-loaded chain tension-er is good ... I have 2 IGH bikes doing that..
You aren't, unstated , wanting to do another fixie conversion ?
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-28-19 at 04:21 PM.
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If you look for a bike with sliders, they are out there used. I think that's what I would do, I really dislike the other ways of taking up slack.
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No on the fixie - I have no interest in riding fixed gear.
I have two bikes at the present - a Specialized Langster with track forks and drop bars set up as a SS/Freewheel which I use for everyday commuting and an old Nishiki plain-guage/hi tensile bike which was a 10 speed but is now a SS/Freewheel with CX tires, dual pivot brakes and MTB handlebars. This bike is not fast or terribly efficient but a ton of fun to ride with my kids.
I just got rid of a SS folding bike (my college kid needed more reliable transportation than her car so she got it for free, awesome campus bike, actually) and I just sold my CX frame because I determined it would be too tall (who knew the BB shell on a CX frame rides higher than a track frame??) lol
The bike I wish to build is a SS/CX bike which I can easily put back to geared in case I hate racing it, I can just use it for a touring/weekend bike for longer rides. I plan on running a freehub body with a single cog which would be easy to slip on an 8+ speed cassette in the event I wanted to switch back (no re-dishing, etc)
I have two bikes at the present - a Specialized Langster with track forks and drop bars set up as a SS/Freewheel which I use for everyday commuting and an old Nishiki plain-guage/hi tensile bike which was a 10 speed but is now a SS/Freewheel with CX tires, dual pivot brakes and MTB handlebars. This bike is not fast or terribly efficient but a ton of fun to ride with my kids.
I just got rid of a SS folding bike (my college kid needed more reliable transportation than her car so she got it for free, awesome campus bike, actually) and I just sold my CX frame because I determined it would be too tall (who knew the BB shell on a CX frame rides higher than a track frame??) lol
The bike I wish to build is a SS/CX bike which I can easily put back to geared in case I hate racing it, I can just use it for a touring/weekend bike for longer rides. I plan on running a freehub body with a single cog which would be easy to slip on an 8+ speed cassette in the event I wanted to switch back (no re-dishing, etc)
Last edited by davei1980; 01-30-19 at 11:29 AM.
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Dave- At least one of the greats in modern building (and is well known for his CX team) has said that the BB drop doesn't need to be less on a CX bike, the taller tier will lift up the height anyway. But with a fixed gear ride (and I know that's not what you plan) the not being able to time one's pedal stroke and terrain stuff suggest less drop is a good idea.
As to folding bikes- mine have all been 3 speeds. I choose the high gear (3rd) to be my flat land steady riding ratio. This way the two lower gears get me up and over the hills (since many folders seem to lack a certain efficiency). Andy
As to folding bikes- mine have all been 3 speeds. I choose the high gear (3rd) to be my flat land steady riding ratio. This way the two lower gears get me up and over the hills (since many folders seem to lack a certain efficiency). Andy
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