Axle slot fillers? Puch mtb
#1
aka: Mike J.
Thread Starter
Axle slot fillers? Puch mtb
what is the correct name for these slot fillers and where can I get some?
I’m going to dig through the bins to see if I can find some spare metal ones that were used on clamp-on derailleur hangers.
This is off an old Puch mtb, got it posted locally currently but the more I look it over it does have some interesting features about it (like the rear derailleur cable being routed through a hole in the rear underslung brake post), so I might decide to pull the ad and keep it for awhile. I’ve never had a Puch before.
I don’t know why I bought this thing, but I did, do I really need a reason other that that it looked interesting???
Anyway, before I get out a carving knife and try to carve a pair of these out of an old piece of 2x4 lumber, where can i get some of these gap filler/spacers? Sliding the rear wheel all the way back does not work due to the rear brake arms not allowing enough adjustment for the pads to slide far enough, so the rear wheel does need to be positioned forward in the dropout slots.
I even considered running a 700c hybrid wheel in the back which might work, but would be stuck with the 26” wheel on front which might be a bit too weird to do.
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#2
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You don't really need them; the bike will work fine without them. They just facilitate locating the rear wheel in the proper position for optimum shifting, but I suspect that by now the dropouts will have marred paint showing where that position is. Just locate the rear axle at the point, tighten things up and enjoy.
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He might not need them, but he wants them.
I'm not sure they have an official name, but you'll probably get more hits for dropout spacer. Seems like an ideal job for 3d printing, but the metal ones would probably last longer. I think I've seen chainring bolts used for this as well.
I'm not sure they have an official name, but you'll probably get more hits for dropout spacer. Seems like an ideal job for 3d printing, but the metal ones would probably last longer. I think I've seen chainring bolts used for this as well.
#4
aka: Mike J.
Thread Starter
I’m just thinking to make things easier when putting the wheel back in. With the rear brake mounted below the chainstays it makes the fore/aft positioning of the wheel a little more critical.
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#5
aka: Mike J.
Thread Starter
He might not need them, but he wants them.
I'm not sure they have an official name, but you'll probably get more hits for dropout spacer. Seems like an ideal job for 3d printing, but the metal ones would probably last longer. I think I've seen chainring bolts used for this as well.
I'm not sure they have an official name, but you'll probably get more hits for dropout spacer. Seems like an ideal job for 3d printing, but the metal ones would probably last longer. I think I've seen chainring bolts used for this as well.
I’ll stop at Ben’s on the way home today.
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#6
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Bicycle dropout axle stop
You need them to prevent potential slippage from a poor locking skewer and aids in positioning wheel alignment.
Various type available but here's a few samples.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F254217485139
Or
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F254193230448
A simple DIY setup is what I use. A narrow blind nut on the inside and screw (Allen socket head) on the outside. The idea is when tightened, its 'squeezed' to the dropout.
You need them to prevent potential slippage from a poor locking skewer and aids in positioning wheel alignment.
Various type available but here's a few samples.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F254217485139
Or
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F254193230448
A simple DIY setup is what I use. A narrow blind nut on the inside and screw (Allen socket head) on the outside. The idea is when tightened, its 'squeezed' to the dropout.
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This bike is interesting and shows how companies sometime work. Puch had a frame that was good, then someone must have said we need to put the brake under the chainstay. So rather than changing the drop outs on the frame, they just added the bosses for the brake, then went the extra step and designed a way to pass the derailleur cable through the brake boss (I think that is what I read). Then they made drop out spacers to ensure that the rim was in the correct position all the time.
Keep in mind, I'm not saying this is bad. This is just the way things work sometimes. You have to press on and provide the customer with what they want even if you don't have all the pieces in place for a complete and elegant solution. It works.
Keep in mind, I'm not saying this is bad. This is just the way things work sometimes. You have to press on and provide the customer with what they want even if you don't have all the pieces in place for a complete and elegant solution. It works.
#8
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Nonsense. Seen it done. A guy named Ron in Roanoke VA had a Grandis road frame that he wanted to use offroad so he added a mountain bike fork and 26" front wheel. He said it actually performed pretty well and stuck the turns but it did look odd.
#9
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#10
aka: Mike J.
Thread Starter
Picked up a parts bike at a yard sale on the way home from work with good tires, plus it had a dropout spacer, win-win.
(yes, the bike is filthy, you should have seen it before I wiped it down a little.)
Test-rode it against my other 26” wheeled mtb and the other one fits me better, so this one will go. Neat, interesting bike though.
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#12
aka: Mike J.
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That where it’s got to be for the brake pads to meet the rim, it is also close to where it was with the original nylon (teflon?) spacers. The brake pads are basically all the way down about as far as they’ll slide in the brakearm slots. But I’ll look at it again to see if there is a way to improve things. And I still might check-fit some 700c hybrid wheels/tires to see how they fit and if they’ll clear everything.
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I have filed the slots in brake calipers to get more drop on the brake pads. That caliper looks pretty beefy so might give you adequate room to explore.
#14
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if i can get my hands on one of those slot fillers to take measurements, i could 3d model them up and 3d print you some. or, i could just put the file online and you could probably have them printed out at your local library.
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On my bikes that have long drop-outs, I only use a slot filler on one side, and just center the wheel between the stays. I probably started this when I didn't have enough to put two on every bike.
#16
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I wish these thing DID have a common-knowlege name, last time I looked online for one I had to try at least 16 word combinations before anything recognizable came up, which did include the pricey Surley "monkeynuts" but I don't think I'll ever remember them by THAT name (must have sounded very catchy to the marketing team!). IIRC I paid about $3 for the simple stamped steel jobs and thought they were slightly overpriced considering what they are, but amazing some eBay seller asks $8.99 plus another $4 to ship?! For that money I would just cobble up a stop from spare junk parts: maybe a "T-nut" without the barbs and a wide-flat-head machine screw or add a clipped flat washer...pennies not dollars.
#17
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That is a really cool lugged bike. Great colour, eclectic parts, original parts.
I'd keep that one too.
I'd keep that one too.
#18
aka: Mike J.
Thread Starter
I wound up selling this one locally awhile ago. Just couldn’t get the fit right for me. The guy who bought it really liked it. The bike did have a lot of interesting aspects and features.
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