First time going clipless - how to avoid the road rash?
#26
Pointy Helmet Tribe
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Offthebackistan
Posts: 4,338
Bikes: R5, Allez Sprint, Shiv
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Liked 627 Times
in
295 Posts
One tip that will help - if you are clipping out with your left foot, turn your front wheel slightly to the right as you are coming to a stop.
Also, you WILL have atleast one clipless fall (sorry, @umd). Cant be helped - but it is totally worth is.
Also, you WILL have atleast one clipless fall (sorry, @umd). Cant be helped - but it is totally worth is.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 728
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 365 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times
in
248 Posts
Use locktite on cleat screw threads. No matter how good you are at unclipping, if the screws loosen during a ride, you're not going to be able to unclip. Ask me how I know ...
#28
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
Thanks for all the advice guys. Hopefully I wont be kissing the tarmac too often now.
Any advice on shoes? I've been looking on line, and prices range from dirt cheap to astronomical. Should I buy the cheap ones to begin with, then upgrade to more expensive ones later on, or will they just fall apart/be **** from straight away and not be worth it? If I were to get slightly more expensive ones, I'd probably go up to the £150ish kind of range. What do you recommend?
Any advice on shoes? I've been looking on line, and prices range from dirt cheap to astronomical. Should I buy the cheap ones to begin with, then upgrade to more expensive ones later on, or will they just fall apart/be **** from straight away and not be worth it? If I were to get slightly more expensive ones, I'd probably go up to the £150ish kind of range. What do you recommend?
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
I'd recommend that you buy from a local shop.
Trying to find a pair of cycling shoes can be an ordeal - they're less forgiving than casual shoes and it's not unusual to try on multiple brands and various sizes. Stores that actually stock shoes that you can try on are a great resource - take advantage of that resource, but only if you're going to reward them with your business.
Trying to find a pair of cycling shoes can be an ordeal - they're less forgiving than casual shoes and it's not unusual to try on multiple brands and various sizes. Stores that actually stock shoes that you can try on are a great resource - take advantage of that resource, but only if you're going to reward them with your business.
Likes For WhyFi:
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
If you can't get out to any shops, you'll have to play the shipping game. Find an online retailer that does free shipping and returns on shoes and start trying them out. It might also help to check the website of the shoe manufacturer - they sometimes have more detailed fit measurements and that can help cut down on the trial and error.
#32
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
They are, yeah, but it's a weird system where you go to the door with a list of what you want, guy in the shop then goes and gets it for you and brings it to the door. You never actually go inside the shop. Fine for some things, but not others. Dont think most places will even let you try stuff on incase it doesnt fit and you leave your nasty germs all over it
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 2,114
Bikes: SL8 Pro, TCR beater
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 989 Post(s)
Liked 586 Times
in
440 Posts
I fall 1 time per year, it's unavoidable. Always at traffic light when forgetting to unclip or trying to unclip too late (it's harder to unclip when you are steady). This year I fell again at the same intersection where I had fallen last year. I hate this place
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
They are, yeah, but it's a weird system where you go to the door with a list of what you want, guy in the shop then goes and gets it for you and brings it to the door. You never actually go inside the shop. Fine for some things, but not others. Dont think most places will even let you try stuff on incase it doesnt fit and you leave your nasty germs all over it
#35
Fat n slow
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Saratoga, NY
Posts: 4,302
Bikes: Cervelo R3, Giant Revolt
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3259 Post(s)
Liked 2,085 Times
in
979 Posts
Its only happened to me once and was because I had a dirt packed cleat after helping a buddy with a flat on a dirt road. Went over in a full parking lot at our old breakfast stop.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Oh, as far as shoes and costs -
How a shoe fits is the most important thing and that'll often stay consistent over a given brand's line-up (unless they have specific wide/narrow options). As you move up in price with a given brand, you'll usually get stiffer soles, lighter weights and convenience features like Boa dials that are more easily adjusted. So, first things first, find a brand with a shape that you get along with and then look at the features that you get as you move up in price-point. Find where you're most comfortable with the value proposition and you're done.
How a shoe fits is the most important thing and that'll often stay consistent over a given brand's line-up (unless they have specific wide/narrow options). As you move up in price with a given brand, you'll usually get stiffer soles, lighter weights and convenience features like Boa dials that are more easily adjusted. So, first things first, find a brand with a shape that you get along with and then look at the features that you get as you move up in price-point. Find where you're most comfortable with the value proposition and you're done.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
My only close calls were due to the same issue - for me, easily clogged cleats are just about the only drawback for Speedplays. I've been more mindful since, though, and will usually clip/unclip multiple times if I have any difficulty clipping in after walking around in dirt or snow.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,851
Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 759 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 810 Times
in
471 Posts
..falling over is way overblown here.
I rode with toeclips, the way they should be used(strapping in snug), for decades and switched over to SPD "clipless" (horrible name-term, since you are clipping in) a few years ago and it's basically the same. Never fallen, or even close. If you're used to toeclips..correctly (being conscious about freeing a foot before stopping), then switching to SPD pedals is a no-brainer. My girlfriend, new to cycling, started using SPD pedals a couple years ago..she's never had any issues.
Put the pedals on, loosen the clip tension all the way, go for a ride and tighten the tension as needed, if needed.
(then again..there's one woman we ride with on a rare occasion..after riding with SPDs for a couple years..she's a clutz and falls over at least once per ride..ymmv)
I rode with toeclips, the way they should be used(strapping in snug), for decades and switched over to SPD "clipless" (horrible name-term, since you are clipping in) a few years ago and it's basically the same. Never fallen, or even close. If you're used to toeclips..correctly (being conscious about freeing a foot before stopping), then switching to SPD pedals is a no-brainer. My girlfriend, new to cycling, started using SPD pedals a couple years ago..she's never had any issues.
Put the pedals on, loosen the clip tension all the way, go for a ride and tighten the tension as needed, if needed.
(then again..there's one woman we ride with on a rare occasion..after riding with SPDs for a couple years..she's a clutz and falls over at least once per ride..ymmv)
Last edited by fishboat; 05-04-20 at 03:59 PM.
Likes For fishboat:
#39
Senior Member
Oh, as far as shoes and costs -
How a shoe fits is the most important thing and that'll often stay consistent over a given brand's line-up (unless they have specific wide/narrow options). As you move up in price with a given brand, you'll usually get stiffer soles, lighter weights and convenience features like Boa dials that are more easily adjusted. So, first things first, find a brand with a shape that you get along with and then look at the features that you get as you move up in price-point. Find where you're most comfortable with the value proposition and you're done.
How a shoe fits is the most important thing and that'll often stay consistent over a given brand's line-up (unless they have specific wide/narrow options). As you move up in price with a given brand, you'll usually get stiffer soles, lighter weights and convenience features like Boa dials that are more easily adjusted. So, first things first, find a brand with a shape that you get along with and then look at the features that you get as you move up in price-point. Find where you're most comfortable with the value proposition and you're done.
#40
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
This was the point I was trying to make. With somethings, you buy cheap, you end up buying twice, with other things, the extra money is just waisted. I was wondering if this was the case with shoes, would it be worth splashing out for a better quality pair straight from the beginning?
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Memphis 10
Posts: 193
Bikes: 2021 Canyon Endurace SL8, 2019 Cannondale Topstone Sora, 2002 Giant Yukon
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked 148 Times
in
57 Posts
I went SPD for two reasons, I wanted walk-able shoes and I wanted shoes I could use at my Gym's spin classes in the winter. So I got a bunch of practice clipping in/out over winter and so far so good no falls out on the road.
Good luck
Good luck
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
This was the point I was trying to make. With somethings, you buy cheap, you end up buying twice, with other things, the extra money is just waisted. I was wondering if this was the case with shoes, would it be worth splashing out for a better quality pair straight from the beginning?
As far as splashing out on a first pair - you do you, but know that a) being comfortable clip-cloping around the house or shop for 45 seconds doesn't necessarily translate to comfort at mile 10 or 30 or 50 or whatever and b) spending more isn't necessarily going to give you better chances of finding a shoe that is more comfortable for the duration of a long ride.
#43
Pointy Helmet Tribe
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Offthebackistan
Posts: 4,338
Bikes: R5, Allez Sprint, Shiv
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Liked 627 Times
in
295 Posts
This was the point I was trying to make. With somethings, you buy cheap, you end up buying twice, with other things, the extra money is just waisted. I was wondering if this was the case with shoes, would it be worth splashing out for a better quality pair straight from the beginning?
Other than that, i dont think longevity is an issue.. my old fiberglass shoes were working very well 4 years into my ownership, till they met a golden retriever puppy with teething issues....
#44
Senior Member
I always recommend Sidi shoes when asked. they will last you a long time. In fact I had a hard time finding a LBS that stocked them. One I went too, after finding them on the Sidi dealers page, had only a smattering of old stock. when I asked why such low inventory, he told me that Sidis are so good, people don't tend to buy any more since they last so long! what better testament. another advantage to Sidi shoes is that you can buy replacement wear items for them. They are a classic case of spend more once, rather than less multiple times. Also, if you have wide feet several models are available in the "mega" version, which gives a much larger toe box. the Genius may be one of these.
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Just to clarify, the lasts used in the Megas are the same width, but the uppers are more generous, allowing your foot to spill over a bit. This will work for people that have feet that are slightly too wide for the regular Sidis, but people that actually have wide feet might be better off looking elsewhere.
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
My first pair of clipless shoes was cheap, and real floppy. I'd get foot pain after long rides, right where the pedal ended and the shoe flexed.
Likes For Seattle Forrest:
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times
in
1,417 Posts
Likes For caloso:
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 7,384
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 800 Post(s)
Liked 218 Times
in
171 Posts
First time going clipless - how to avoid the road rash?My advice after a few falls, the first three within about a couple months after starting is unclip one foot, for me the right foot next to a curb, if you even think about stopping.
BTW, I previously posted:
BTW, I previously posted:
"Clipless pedals or not"'
On further reading, I noted the right vs left unclipping discussion. We have plenty of curbs and I unclip right. In fact, when I'm on the left side of the road, left foot unclipping seems awkward.
I first to thought about it when I started riding with a regular companion, and he always unclipped left..
After a few early falls when learning to ride with clipless pedals,I now unclip the right foot when there is the least anticipation of stopping.
On further reading, I noted the right vs left unclipping discussion. We have plenty of curbs and I unclip right. In fact, when I'm on the left side of the road, left foot unclipping seems awkward.
I first to thought about it when I started riding with a regular companion, and he always unclipped left..
After a few early falls when learning to ride with clipless pedals,I now unclip the right foot when there is the least anticipation of stopping.
I had to beat this into my head- Any issues downshifting when going uphill, unclip immediately.
...Sometimes though on an incline upwards, from a stop with both feet free and unclipped, it can be a problem to get enough forward momentum to rotate the pedal and clip in, and the cleat is slippery on the wrong side of the pedal. On a couple of occasions I banged my shin on the pedal..
I tried riding with cleat covers for traction on such short distances, but I’ve lost two separate cleat covers doing that...
I tried riding with cleat covers for traction on such short distances, but I’ve lost two separate cleat covers doing that...
Earlier on this thread I posted: On the various clipless pedal threads I have read over the years, I don't recall reading about slippery pedals until recently.
When I'm on an incline upwards my usual solution to proceed from a stopped completely unclipped position is to turn around and descend to engage the clips, then do a U-turn upwards, usually at the flat road surface before the hill.
BTW FYA, on the 50+ Cycling Forum is an honorary society for those learning clipless pedals, Club Tombay (link).
When I'm on an incline upwards my usual solution to proceed from a stopped completely unclipped position is to turn around and descend to engage the clips, then do a U-turn upwards, usually at the flat road surface before the hill.
BTW FYA, on the 50+ Cycling Forum is an honorary society for those learning clipless pedals, Club Tombay (link).
Last edited by Jim from Boston; 05-06-20 at 06:33 AM. Reason: added quote about slippery pedals
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 728
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 365 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times
in
248 Posts
Just to clarify, the lasts used in the Megas are the same width, but the uppers are more generous, allowing your foot to spill over a bit. This will work for people that have feet that are slightly too wide for the regular Sidis, but people that actually have wide feet might be better off looking elsewhere.
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
...but that doesn't change the fact that they're just adding more upper material on the same lasts, giving you 4mm more spillover vs their regular widths. I'm a ~4E and the High Volume approach (used by most manufacturers: Sidi, Giro, Shimano, etc) just doesn't work for me. Well, it works for me for about an hour, but that's about it. For people with wide feet, and for whom the HV approach just doesn't cut it, Lake and Bont are a some of the only manufacturers that accommodate with a wider last. After years of searching with local shops, I finally broke down and did the mail order thing with Lake - so much better, I wish that I would have done it sooner (well, I wish that shops stocked them and didn't make jumping through the mail order hoops necessary, but that's a different story).