Front Hub Motors?
#1
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Front Hub Motors?
I installed one of these kits on a cruiser bike of mine for the wife. It's a 250W, and while testing it, I noticed it stutters a little a start off, and if you keep the switch on at top speed , it feels as if the gears are having trouble keeping up with the rotation of the tire. It provides great assistance riding the bike, it only seems smooth at 1/4 to 3/4 speed. Do they all have these characteristics?
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no, that isn't normal. Sounds like the hall sensors are not connected properly. One way or another the controller isn't doing a good job talking to the motor.
I have one that I run without the hall sensors. Sometimes it takes a second to sync with the motor, but its fine once it starts up.
I have one that I run without the hall sensors. Sometimes it takes a second to sync with the motor, but its fine once it starts up.
#3
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no, that isn't normal. Sounds like the hall sensors are not connected properly. One way or another the controller isn't doing a good job talking to the motor.
I have one that I run without the hall sensors. Sometimes it takes a second to sync with the motor, but its fine once it starts up.
I have one that I run without the hall sensors. Sometimes it takes a second to sync with the motor, but its fine once it starts up.
Thanks, it was a kit from Leeds, it works well from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, then if you get going above about 15 MPH, its' as if the wheel of the bike is outrunning the gear drive system. It will not however do it stationary when full is applied? Any thoughts?
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I had a Dillenger front kit (now on my daughter's bike) and it only had that characteristic when the battery was dying. Replaced the battery and the problem evaporated. Did you ask Leeds; they seem fairly competent?
#5
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I asked them, they were not too sure, suggested tightening spokes (they are ok), battery was fully charged. It works for what my wife uses it for, just a little boost up the hill. They give a 2 year warranty on the motor, so if it seizes hopefully they will replace it, I imagine the lifespan on one of these is about that long anyway.
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If it's within the warranty period, they should replace IMO, but the problem needs to be elucidated before knowing what to change. Otherwise, they should replace the entire kit. BTW, these systems are robust and should last longer than a couple of years. My daughter's is about five years old (only the battery needed replacement).
#7
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From the looks only, that hub motor appears to be a much higher quality piece than the Leeds one, I seen that type on some of their customer photos as well. Here's the type you get now, perhaps they changed to a lower grade? From the sound it makes, and because it happens under load (while riding) I suspect the gears in the thing are not quite up to the task, they slip or float.
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Well, I was gonna suggest to the same thing that worked in this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/electric-...-problems.html
Namely, change out the controller. You could check the wiring connections first though.
The motors are 3 phase motors, so if they are out of phase, its gonna run funny (or not at all). the "hall wires" perform this task, although some controllers will sync up without this after a second. Could be that the hall wires are wired wrong. It sounds to me that your motor is getting out of phase - either there is something wrong with the controller or the wiring.
When you say "the wheel of the bike is outrunning the gear drive system." Technically this isn't possible on a freewheeling wheel. I pedal faster than my motor can spin all the time. So, it sounds like your motor is getting out of phase and thus out of sync. I'd ask if they can send you another controller. Most controllers are so cheap, I just order some spares (and occasionally I burn them out anyway).
https://www.bikeforums.net/electric-...-problems.html
Namely, change out the controller. You could check the wiring connections first though.
The motors are 3 phase motors, so if they are out of phase, its gonna run funny (or not at all). the "hall wires" perform this task, although some controllers will sync up without this after a second. Could be that the hall wires are wired wrong. It sounds to me that your motor is getting out of phase - either there is something wrong with the controller or the wiring.
When you say "the wheel of the bike is outrunning the gear drive system." Technically this isn't possible on a freewheeling wheel. I pedal faster than my motor can spin all the time. So, it sounds like your motor is getting out of phase and thus out of sync. I'd ask if they can send you another controller. Most controllers are so cheap, I just order some spares (and occasionally I burn them out anyway).
#9
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Well, I was gonna suggest to the same thing that worked in this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/electric-...-problems.html
Namely, change out the controller. You could check the wiring connections first though.
The motors are 3 phase motors, so if they are out of phase, its gonna run funny (or not at all). the "hall wires" perform this task, although some controllers will sync up without this after a second. Could be that the hall wires are wired wrong. It sounds to me that your motor is getting out of phase - either there is something wrong with the controller or the wiring.
When you say "the wheel of the bike is outrunning the gear drive system." Technically this isn't possible on a freewheeling wheel. I pedal faster than my motor can spin all the time. So, it sounds like your motor is getting out of phase and thus out of sync. I'd ask if they can send you another controller. Most controllers are so cheap, I just order some spares (and occasionally I burn them out anyway).
https://www.bikeforums.net/electric-...-problems.html
Namely, change out the controller. You could check the wiring connections first though.
The motors are 3 phase motors, so if they are out of phase, its gonna run funny (or not at all). the "hall wires" perform this task, although some controllers will sync up without this after a second. Could be that the hall wires are wired wrong. It sounds to me that your motor is getting out of phase - either there is something wrong with the controller or the wiring.
When you say "the wheel of the bike is outrunning the gear drive system." Technically this isn't possible on a freewheeling wheel. I pedal faster than my motor can spin all the time. So, it sounds like your motor is getting out of phase and thus out of sync. I'd ask if they can send you another controller. Most controllers are so cheap, I just order some spares (and occasionally I burn them out anyway).
The throttle switch on this kit is spliced into the battery wire, is the controller inside the hub motor, that would be no fun to pull those apart every so many miles.
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Shame if your motor is lower quality because that's a Dillenger kit on hers (Shenghi motor) and the kit was only about $750 with tax and shipping. The controller is in the battery cradle and the battery plugs into it. I'm surprised Leeds hasn't provided any technical assistance. Spokes loose; really? Maybe they'll see your posts and become more helpful.
Last edited by 2old; 05-22-20 at 12:22 PM.
#11
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Shame if your motor is lower quality because that's a Dillenger kit on hers (Shenghi motor) and the kit was only about $750 with tax and shipping. The controller is in the battery cradle and the battery plugs into it. I'm surprised Leeds hasn't provided any technical assistance. Spokes loose; really? Maybe they'll see your posts and become more helpful.
#12
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For those of you with one of these hub motors, will it take off from a dead stop throttle only? this one will what I call "cog" or pulsate on take off with throttle only, I have to get it rolling slightly to pull away.
Thanks
Thanks
#14
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Thanks
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For some reason your hall wires are not working. They allow the 3 phase motor to sync up to the controller. So yep, its busted.
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I would still like to have a front and another motor for an all wheel drive bike. Probably a front hub motor and mid drive. The problem is to get the same amount of power/push from both so they aren't working against each other. Saw a review of one on youtube. Micah Toll was doing it for a website. It might have been front and rear hub motors? I think as long as you can control them properly you are OK. Be Well, Bluesfrog.