WesleeC

Title says it all. Whats your dream build? I'm looking to get in to something of much higher quality than my generic State 4130. It's been a fun bike, but I know there is much better out there. Show me what you think is the ultimate ride from your perspective and what you use it for. As for me I don't know enough about high end stuff, but mine would basically be the Wabi Classic. Seems like a solid build all around.

We can use this format:

FRAME:
FORK:
CRANK SET:
BOTTOM BRACKET:
PEDALS:
COG/FREEWHEEL:
CHAIN:
WHEELSET:
TIRES:
BRAKES:
HEADSET:
HANDLEBAR:
STEM:
GRIPS:
SADDLE:
SEATPOST:

If i'm missing a component let me know.
Have fun and if there are pics of your dream post them!

79pmooney

You asked for it. I designed and had built the ultimate road fix gear 7 years ago. My most fun bike and the bike I often just change my mind and grab when I intending to ride one of my other 4 bikes. It now has 16,000 miles (despite taking a back seat to another project the past 15 months) and 4 Cycle Oregons.

Seven years ago, I knew I had to stop riding my "Jessica", the Peugeot sports frame I picked up to $20 and got on the road for barely $100 (plus parts on hand). That was the most fun bike I had ridden since my racing bike 30 years before. I knew it was just a mater of time before it broke. So I drew up a bike based on Jessica, a few frame geometry details altered to fit the realities of my riding.

This bike incorporated a much higher BB for fix gear and 175 cranks for these knees. A custom dropout that could handle any cog I wanted to use and open down in front so I could remove the wheel with any tire and cog without deflating. Also angled 11 degrees from horizontal - considerably less than a standard road dropout - so the brake pad stays on the deep Velocity Aero rim but the BB height doesn't change much running any cog. Seattube angle is 75 degrees; steep to keep the wheel location forward so it is well weighted when pushed all the way back with a 12t cog for mountain descents. Inserts for three bottle cages. A pump nob on the headtube. Bolthbole drilled for rear fender at the BB. Fender eyes.

A very real part of the concept of this bike is that I be able to flip the rear wheel very easily for fast on-the-road gear changes. A chain peg was incorporated into the dropout. (I saw welding it on as the way to go but the builder thought that simply drilling and threading the dropout would be far easier for him and allow me more adjustment. He was right. A neat SS cap screw works really well.) I do wheel flips in a 2 minute stop using a Pedros Trixie fix gear wrench I keep under the tool bag. % minutes for a cog change.

CRANKSET: Sugino 75 w/ 42t and 43t rings

BB: Miche pista
Shimano 600 semi-platfoprm w/ toeclips and straps. I added a big steel tab and counterweights for really easy pickup

COGS: Eur-Asian 1/8". I have all between 12 and 22 plus a Surley 23 and an Englich 24. All 1/8" I also can carry a custom lightwieght chainwhip on the top tube. I'e been known to use 3 and 4 cogs on a ride. 100 miles up to, around and down Crater Lake with 12, 17 and 23.

CHAIN: Isuze 1/8"

WHEELS: Wheels are not a set. Front is Open Pro rim laced w/ 32 3X w/ 1.8-1.6-1.8 spokes. Rear is Velocity Aero lace to Miche flip-flop hub, fixed both sides, 32 spoke, 3X, same spokes as front

TIRES: VIttoria Open Pave or Corsa, 25c and Pasela, 25c depending on ride

BRAKES: Road cockpit - SunTour Superbe, Tektro road levers; Mountain road cockpit - Shimano dual pivot, Textro V-brake road levers

HS: Tange threaded (Its a mix of three modes to get the stack to match the steerer cut for a Chris King that drove me nuts. The three Tange headset total cost less than the King and it is a joy to ride and own.)

BARS: Road cockpit - Nitto traditional 40cm road bars; Mountain road cockpit - Unknown brand deep 43cm pista bars

STEM: Road cockpit - 130 Cinelli 1R(?) ; Mountain road cockpit - Nitto Pearl 12. BOth bars wrapped w/ (2) layers black cloth tape

SEAT: Terry Fly (ti rails)

SEATPOST: Custom ti/al TiCycles post w/ huge setback and the great Thompson hardwear.

FENDERS: SKS silver. I add a deep flap to all my front fenders. Rear was cut in half forward to the brake and a bracket made to attach the front and go over the brake and attache the rear portion. Rear portion also had cuts made in the flange portion in two blaces, just before the high point and just after. The fender was then straightened slightly at these cuts and the inside fiberglassed with CF, glass cloth and epoxy resin. This meant that I can slide the wheel the entire length of the dropout without adjusting the fender.

Not much I would do differently if I was starting again. As an only good fix gear, maybe slightly slower steering; it is race quick and does require attention, esp at the outset. But it is an all day rider. I've done 130 miles on it and it was just as good at the end as it was at the begging. But since I now have another good fix gear, this with "classic" steering, I love getting to ride the "race" stuff for a change!

Oh, my logo is that bike. Shown at its best. Going up a 14.5% grade at Cycle Oregon - in the 42-17 flat ground gear! I didn't get the word that the hill was "the big one" until I was into it and didn't want to stop!

Ben

WesleeC

^^^This is true love. Thanks for the detailed, nostalgic reply.

TimothyH

Rodriquez Custom - Pedalroom

I wish it had a level top tube for a more classic look but the fit was better with a sloped top tube and so there it is.


-Tim-

WesleeC

Love your bike Tim! Really like that deep blue.

TimothyH

I just waxed it. Again.

Dougie D

REDMASTA

@TimothyH Very nice build love it!

Hundreds more dream builds @ pedalroom. Great place for ideas and inspiration, you'll want things you never knew existed! The marketplace is also very active and a good place to score unique frames or parts.

WesleeC

Thank you! You're right. There is lots of inspiration!

SquidPuppet

It would start with a Nao Tomii filet brazed frame and fork and have Compass tires.

veganbikes

FRAME: Firefly Titanium with a road geo and clearance for 35mm tires
FORK: Full carbon (ENVE, Whisky or the like)
CRANK SET: Sugino Super Zen Direct Drive
BOTTOM BRACKET: CeramicSpeed BSA
PEDALS: XTR Trail
COG/FREEWHEEL: EAI Gold Medal cog and White Industries Freewheel
CHAIN: Izumi Super Toughness
WHEELSET: Phil Hubs with ceramic bearings laced to HED Belgium rims with Sapim CX Ray spokes and SecureLock Nipples
TIRES: Vittoria Corsa G+ 28mm (or if I had a team car following me then Dugast or FMB tubulars in a similar width)
BRAKES: Cane Creek eeBrakes (G4 I guess is the new version) w/ Jagwire Elite Link housing. SRAM 900 Levers
HEADSET: CeramicSpeed
HANDLEBAR: Zipp Service Course SL-70 Ergo Carbon
STEM: Firefly Titanium
BAR TAPE: Lizard Skins 3.2mm DSP
SADDLE: Brooks Cambium C17 carved (but with custom Ti rails)
SEATPOST: Firefly Titanium

TimothyH

Did someone say Firefly?

Skip the Lizard Skins. Go with Zipp Service Course or Service Course CX. Same great taste as Lizard Skins with half the carbs.

veganbikes

I may have mentioned it and think about it all the time and save my favorite pictures (especially of their neat anodizing work) and look at them from time to time dreaming about my All-Road I want them to build for me but you know nothing to crazy.

Hmmm...speed weaponry tape? I might have to try it, though I am fine with carbo-loading, it is my national pastime!!!!! I actually found Lizard Skins on accident because I was having my old touring bike worked on and I had forgotten to get tape so my mechanic just threw on some tape that I think was for a co-worker and it was that and I was sold in one ride. However looking at some random internet reviews I am thinking maybe Speed Weaponry might be in order especially when someone mentioned my favo-tapo!

TMonk

Answering this in the context of street/road fixie. Track bike would be a very different build:

Frame: I'd go with something cool, steel and handbuilt, like a Rock Lobster or something.
Fork, Bars/Stem, Post: Ritchey WCS
Wheels: Maybe the TB14's I already have but with some balleur hubs
Saddle: Flite
Tires: Fast

50voltphantom

^I like this a lot.

Mine would be something akin to that white Vanilla SSCX bike I've posted at least three times on this forum. Good lawd is that thing beautiful.

veganbikes

What would be the most balleur hubs out there that exist and aren't a trillion Schrutebucks? I mean Phil's look the best ATMO but what would be better? Because Phil's ain't light and if you are going to dream you might as well be light about it.

That Sacha White always makes some killer bikes, that new Speedvagen single speed adventure thingy is friggen dope. https://theradavist.com/2018/07/skip...dvagen-gtfo/#1
It is silly in all the right ways and I want one so bad. It just looks like a bike you can have a little too much fun on and get yourself into some good ole' fashion trouble!

50voltphantom

My personal opinion would be the All City New Sheriffs. Lightweight, big bearings, hex and 15mm compatible. You could easily replace the stock bolts for Ti and get the the pair under 400g.

belacqua

This is very cool. Do you have another picture of it handy? And can you explain switching back to superbe for road use? I think I understand the appeal of long pull / dual pivot setup -- but why switch?

TMonk

Good question. I'm not sure that hubs matter.

(or anything else?)

veganbikes

They are quite excellent hubs. I have one on my SS/FG RandoCross FunTime Machine and have a set for the Langster I just need to build. There is a small part of me that wants to replace the bearings with ceramic when I do that because why not?!

Gresp15C

My dream build is a nice fall afternoon when I can have the garage door open, all of the parts clean and laid out, no missing tools, and nothing on my schedule.

79pmooney

Sorry, no other pictures. Keeping the calipers with the "cockpits is simply easier. Front requires no setup at all Just tighten one nut. The rear I do have to detach because I run old-school full length housing through top tube guides as was common in the '80s. Also I use very different brake levers and therefore want calipers of different power. The climbing setup has V-brake levers and dual-pivot calipers. I really DO NOT WANT too much power! If I come into a turn very fast on a mountain descent, I need to bleed a lot of speed off very quickly or I will hit pedal. The road setup has much more powerful regual road levers and with dual pivots, that would be to much power (for any bike in my view, but especially a fix gear. Sidepull have less power so are a better fit for the job.

Best part really is that I can change cockpits in less than 5 minutes so I can do it right before I ride. And by keeping the front brake setup intact, it means there are only two things that require aligning and neither is at all critical so I can jump on the bike with no quality check of the cockpit swap and know I am safe. (It won't take very long to notice I didn't line up the stem correctly but that never caused anybody an injury to anything more than perhaps an ego. Rear brake cable adjust on a fix gear isn't much more critical and that is easy to get right while riding.

Ben

50voltphantom

The only reason I didn't use an AC rear hub on my last wheelbuild is the fact that I was under a tight budget and I liked the all stainless hardware on the Surly hub as it was going to get washed a lot (cyclocross and whatnot). I'd still like to know what an AC New Sheriff would weight/look like with some button-head Ti axle bolts.

IAmSam

Found my next bike


https://www.statebicycle.com/products/pardi-b-4130-core-line?variant=8153570967639&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=fb-us-rt-pc_view_atc_90-028

phobus