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Thread for Specialized Sirrus

Old 05-01-19, 12:48 PM
  #801  
Jakespaar
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Originally Posted by kergin View Post
Question for the thread: I'm gonna get a Sirrus Carbon Comp for commuting, but I'm unsure of what size I should take. I'm 5'10", which puts me on an L frame; however, the standover on that size is pretty bad (crotch hits the top tube). I tried a medium, but it felt kinda cramped while riding. Should I just do the medium and go with a longer stem?
I've got a similar quandary. I'm 5'8" and Medium's usually fit me. However, there is no clearance between me and the downtube on the Medium X Comp Carbon. But, the rest of the fit feels correct (thus the quandary). What size did you end up getting, and are you happy with that choice?
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Old 05-01-19, 05:57 PM
  #802  
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it seems like the sirrus runs a little big for it's size. if the top tube being up in your business is too uncomfortable, i'd go with the next size down. you can adjust the stem/replace with longer/shorter, and otherwise adjust the components to fit whichever frame size you get.

i have an older sirrus, a 2011 elite disc, and i'm 5'11 - i have a medium and probably wouldn't have rather a large. i don't mind getting friendly with the top tube, but the reach is kinda long on this bike as it is.

then again, i've converted mine to a drop bar bike, so that's going to mess with the fitment when it comes to reach and whatnot, so ymmv.



my elite disc was stock and super high mileage when i got it, so i've been slowly replacing/upgrading components as i'm able. i have a few more things in the works (higher volume tires, better calipers, shorter stem with more rise), but i'm pretty happy with this $150 craigslist rig!
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Old 05-05-19, 02:17 PM
  #803  
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Originally Posted by hijklr View Post
There was a safety recall on the steerer tube collar which I believe was replaced after our bikes were originally assembled. Getting things back together correctly and removing play from the steering system requires an orderly and careful process which can't be rushed. I found the official instructions, per the recall, on how to reassemble the front end. It is somewhat tricky to remove the play in the steerer tube as there are two opposing preload screws which need to be unlocked and then tightened down in small alternating steps. Excess play could certainly be causing your "clunking". Also, there was no top spring installed in my future shock which made it feel mushy. After trying both the medium black, and light blue, I kept the blue installed and it feels nice. My future shock is working great and my front end feels solid with no clunking or looseness.
Thanks for the feedback. I took the bike into the LBS a couple days ago complaining about the clunk and they said it is due to the brake pads shifting in the calipers and is normal. I can duplicate the clunk easiest by holding a brake and rocking the bike against the locked wheel and it does seem to happen with the rear wheel a bit too, so this sorta makes sense. I'm going to monitor. I didn't quiz them about what they did during the recall but they said it was done.

Mine had the medium helper spring installed from the factory and the FS does occasionally bottom. The mechanic says most big guys seem to prefer the heavier spring so I'll probably try it soon.

- Mark
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Old 05-06-19, 05:00 AM
  #804  
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Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
I took the bike into the LBS a couple days ago complaining about the clunk and they said it is due to the brake pads shifting in the calipers and is normal. I can duplicate the clunk easiest by holding a brake and rocking the bike against the locked wheel and it does seem to happen with the rear wheel a bit too, so this sorta makes sense.
Yes, that noise is pretty common. I have two bikes with Shimano M315 hydraulic brakes, and one of them will make that noise pretty easily while the other one won't. Both have the stock Shimano organic brake pads. I think it's just a function of the specific caliper and specific pads. If your caliper is a hair on the larger side (in terms of machining tolerances) and maybe your brake pads are a hair on the smaller side, you might have more of a gap than other bikes, and get more of a noise.

Also, I think frame material can highlight this noise more than others. My noisier brakes are on my Giant Roam, which seems to have pretty thin aluminum tubing, and a noise like that seems to travel through the frame pretty easily. My bike with the quieter brakes is a Redline mountain bike which seems to have thicker tubing, and sounds like that are a little quieter or duller in that frame. That could be a contributing factor in your case as well.
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Old 05-06-19, 05:56 AM
  #805  
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Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
I took the bike into the LBS a couple days ago complaining about the clunk and they said it is due to the brake pads shifting in the calipers and is normal. I can duplicate the clunk easiest by holding a brake and rocking the bike against the locked wheel
Luckily, neither of my calipers make that clunking noise but my front brakes squeal terribly as I come to a complete stop. It makes dogs howl and people give me weird looks. I've tried sanding the rotors and pads, replacing the rotors and pads and CRC Disc Brake Quite. None of these attempted fixes has made any difference whatsoever. I might try a different brand and/or pad material next (my new rotors are compatible with metal pads).
Kevin
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Old 05-06-19, 08:56 AM
  #806  
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Originally Posted by hijklr View Post
Luckily, neither of my calipers make that clunking noise but my front brakes squeal terribly as I come to a complete stop. It makes dogs howl and people give me weird looks. I've tried sanding the rotors and pads, replacing the rotors and pads and CRC Disc Brake Quite. None of these attempted fixes has made any difference whatsoever. I might try a different brand and/or pad material next (my new rotors are compatible with metal pads).
Kevin
Organic or resin pads are usually the quietest, especially in dry conditions. Semi-metallic or metallic pads offer benefits to pad life and ultimate stopping power, but usually at the expense of noise.
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Old 05-08-19, 02:53 PM
  #807  
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Any kickstand solution for Carbon Sirrus

so I showed the "Upstand" to my bike shop mechanic and he doesn't think that the through axle version will fit the 2019 Xcomp and I suppose the other carbon models.
https://upstandingbicycle.com/shop/the-upstand/

Sorry if this has been addressed already.
If this is true and there's no kickstand option possible for the bike then I'll just get a feedback sports stand that you roll the bike into.
Feedback Sports RAKK Bicycle Storage Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F9V842..._8EZ0CbNE00ZN2

Thanks
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Old 05-09-19, 01:21 PM
  #808  
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For those with a carbon Sirrus with thru axles who are looking at how to adapt it to a fork-mount bike rack set up for QR skewers, I can confirm that this thru axle adapter works perfectly and is $20 vs. the $60 that Thule and Yakima want for their equivalent products. I think the same model works for the new Diverge.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is some concern about the axle bosses in the adapter being slightly too big to go into the fork on some 12x100 thru axle forks, but it works fine on the carbon Sirrus.

- Mark

Last edited by markjenn; 05-09-19 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 05-09-19, 06:03 PM
  #809  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd View Post
Organic or resin pads are usually the quietest, especially in dry conditions. Semi-metallic or metallic pads offer benefits to pad life and ultimate stopping power, but usually at the expense of noise.
From my experience with numerous mountain bikes, resin pads have been the quietest. For whatever reason, after installing Jagwire semi-metallic pads, my Sirrus front brakes are now completely squeal, squeak, honk, and howl free! What a relief. Still running the resin pads on the rear with no problems.
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Old 05-17-19, 02:59 PM
  #810  
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Hey, just wanted to bring back up the issue with the stock Bottom Bracket.
So I took delivery of my bike recently and from day 1 noticed a sound coming every time I turned the crank.
It only makes this sound when I am sitting on it and pedaling, it cannot be replicated in a stationary position (we also tried locking the rear wheel with brake to get the sound we did not)

Anyways, I made a crappy video of me making the sound, it does it in different gears. Do you think this is the bottom bracket?

If indeed this is the cheapo bottom bracket Specialized stuck us with, what should I do?
Should I complain to Specialized, will it accomplish anything?

And any recommendations on bottom brackets, I know Shimano Deore is an easy pick, but I know there are better ones.
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Old 05-20-19, 08:18 PM
  #811  
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Originally Posted by GeorgeMD View Post
Anyways, I made a crappy video of me making the sound, it does it in different gears. Do you think this is the bottom bracket?
https://youtu.be/gLcL0B1oCmQ
Odd noise. Maybe it's the BB, but I'd expect more of a grinding noise or no noise and roughness when you turn the pedals by hand. This sounds more like a creak which is often associated with the BB being loose. Typically BB creaks are more associated with press-in type BB's rather than the threaded ones Specialized is now using.

If indeed this is the cheapo bottom bracket Specialized stuck us with, what should I do?
Should I complain to Specialized, will it accomplish anything?
The LBS replaced the BB on my Comp X after they noticed roughness in the initial tuneup. If the bike is still under warranty, I'd take it in and have them look at it. The problem sounds pretty obvious, so I would think they would fix it without much trouble, whether the BB or something else.

And any recommendations on bottom brackets, I know Shimano Deore is an easy pick, but I know there are better ones.
Any Hollowtech II compatible bracket should be fine - mine was replaced with a low-end Shimano and while I'm sure it is not god's gift to BB's, it is easily as good as the low-end BB that ships with the bike. If they replace it, you're going to get something that should work fine so I wouldn't worry about it.

- Mark
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Old 06-01-19, 03:51 PM
  #812  
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So, finally received my Sirrus Comp X (Medium) last weekend. Not much mileage yet, but a few first impressions.

1. The Future Shock works, exactly as claimed. The effect is subtle, but immediately noticeable. I'm currently running the stock 38mm tires (soon to go) at the same pressure as the Roubaix 32s on my '10 Sirrus, just as a check. There's no question about the effectiveness of this device, and it is the main reason I bought the bike. This is with the stock Medium spring. I will probably change it out for the Light spring -- not sure yet.

2. Frame is beautifully made, and (bonus) the slight geometry changes relative to my '10 are fantastic: a little more reach > fits like a glove w/stock stem. Nothing needs fiddling with there.

3. The NX drivetrain (1x11) is great; very smooth shifting and quiet. The ratios are fine with me, but I'll probably change the stock 42 ring down to a 38 at some point. I have no need for a 42x11 high, and a smaller front ring will allow more use of the middle/lower part of the cassette.

4. The brakes are (now) perfectly fine. Out the shop door, the front brake was flawless but the rear squealed like a stuck pig from the get-go; little children and kittens were keeling over as I went by. Turns out factory or distributor error: rear rotor and pads contaminated with some kind of oil. Re-surface rotor, re-align caliper, and new pads > total fix (quick) by LBS. All is good.

5. Tires are ... meh. They're ok, but too heavy/too much tread for me. I knew that going in, so not a complaint at all. These will be replaced soonest by my beloved 32mm Roubaix Pros or Conti GP5000 32s.

6. The crank is a) fugly and b) a boat anchor. It (and the b/b) is crude. I get it; build to a price point. This will go next off-season. Probably replace with Praxis carbon or SRAM Force.

7. The wheels: crude junk. These will go, along with the crankset, next off-season. I'll replace with something 'not fake deep section' and much, much lighter. Target will be 1500g.

8. #6 and #7 are mainly responsible for the porky overall weight: bike as stock is probably around 22/23 lbs. Far too heavy. My target is 19 lbs. w/pedals (my '10 Sirrus Comp); changing out the crankset and wheels on this one will pretty much cover that. The following year I'll change out the brakes to Ultegra calipers/rotors and XT levers (yes, they're compatible).

Summary: love the bike so far. The negatives above are 'just me'; personal preferences and all that. The bike as a whole is a keeper, and once I've customized it to my preferences it is very likely to do me for a very long time.
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Old 06-01-19, 04:35 PM
  #813  
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Originally Posted by badger1 View Post
So, finally received my Sirrus Comp X (Medium) last weekend. Not much mileage yet, but a few first impressions.

1. The Future Shock works, exactly as claimed. The effect is subtle, but immediately noticeable. I'm currently running the stock 38mm tires (soon to go) at the same pressure as the Roubaix 32s on my '10 Sirrus, just as a check. There's no question about the effectiveness of this device, and it is the main reason I bought the bike. This is with the stock Medium spring. I will probably change it out for the Light spring -- not sure yet.

2. Frame is beautifully made, and (bonus) the slight geometry changes relative to my '10 are fantastic: a little more reach > fits like a glove w/stock stem. Nothing needs fiddling with there.

3. The NX drivetrain (1x11) is great; very smooth shifting and quiet. The ratios are fine with me, but I'll probably change the stock 42 ring down to a 38 at some point. I have no need for a 42x11 high, and a smaller front ring will allow more use of the middle/lower part of the cassette.

4. The brakes are (now) perfectly fine. Out the shop door, the front brake was flawless but the rear squealed like a stuck pig from the get-go; little children and kittens were keeling over as I went by. Turns out factory or distributor error: rear rotor and pads contaminated with some kind of oil. Re-surface rotor, re-align caliper, and new pads > total fix (quick) by LBS. All is good.

5. Tires are ... meh. They're ok, but too heavy/too much tread for me. I knew that going in, so not a complaint at all. These will be replaced soonest by my beloved 32mm Roubaix Pros or Conti GP5000 32s.

6. The crank is a) fugly and b) a boat anchor. It (and the b/b) is crude. I get it; build to a price point. This will go next off-season. Probably replace with Praxis carbon or SRAM Force.

7. The wheels: crude junk. These will go, along with the crankset, next off-season. I'll replace with something 'not fake deep section' and much, much lighter. Target will be 1500g.

8. #6 and #7 are mainly responsible for the porky overall weight: bike as stock is probably around 22/23 lbs. Far too heavy. My target is 19 lbs. w/pedals (my '10 Sirrus Comp); changing out the crankset and wheels on this one will pretty much cover that. The following year I'll change out the brakes to Ultegra calipers/rotors and XT levers (yes, they're compatible).

Summary: love the bike so far. The negatives above are 'just me'; personal preferences and all that. The bike as a whole is a keeper, and once I've customized it to my preferences it is very likely to do me for a very long time.
Congratulations, @badger1. You've been waiting for awhile. I hope the weather cooperates this weekend.

The frame and fork seem good, and that's the most important part. I especially like the threaded BB.

Agreed on the cranks and wheels. In general, these are traditional OEM cost saver locations.

Agreed with the gearing. I spin fast and like the small jumps around the 13-19t a lot. I don't even use 11t cogs if I can, most of my bikes max out at 12t. Also prefer newer 1.5 finer levers over older 2.5 finger ones.

Also surprised at that stock weight, oddly high for crabon but nothing some money will not solve. Don't neglect OEM seatposts and handlebars, they can be quite heavy. For perspective, a high end 94 steel rigid Stumpjumper weighed the same.

From your verbal description, it seems like a nice bike and I look forward to seeing it personalized. Congratulations, again.

TLDR: Pics or it didn't happen.
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Old 06-02-19, 08:03 AM
  #814  
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Originally Posted by DorkDisk View Post
Congratulations, @badger1. You've been waiting for awhile. I hope the weather cooperates this weekend.

The frame and fork seem good, and that's the most important part. I especially like the threaded BB.

Agreed on the cranks and wheels. In general, these are traditional OEM cost saver locations.

Agreed with the gearing. I spin fast and like the small jumps around the 13-19t a lot. I don't even use 11t cogs if I can, most of my bikes max out at 12t. Also prefer newer 1.5 finer levers over older 2.5 finger ones.

Also surprised at that stock weight, oddly high for crabon but nothing some money will not solve. Don't neglect OEM seatposts and handlebars, they can be quite heavy. For perspective, a high end 94 steel rigid Stumpjumper weighed the same.

From your verbal description, it seems like a nice bike and I look forward to seeing it personalized. Congratulations, again.

TLDR: Pics or it didn't happen.
Cheers, DorkDisk!

It was a long wait -- ordered at the end of September -- but there were some complicating factors not the fault at all of LBS. Consolation: the weather this spring has been awful, so not much time lost, really.

Yes, I bought the bike for the frameset (inc. FS) and fit mainly -- pretty much as I did with my '10 Sirrus Comp and indeed my still-loved '05 Giant Rainier hardtail. Pretty sure I'll follow the same pattern here: buy bike, and within a year or two I'll have replaced everything to bring it into line with my component preferences.

Pictures in due course, when I've the time.
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Old 06-21-19, 03:50 PM
  #815  
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Thread bump, first post. Thanks to all who have posted about the new X comp. Today is my third week of ownership. I've logged 130 miles on this fine machine so far (lots of rain here too).

I think badger is pretty spot on with the assessment of the bike. I ride mostly chipped country roads and canal paths, and the future shock (medium spring) is wonderful at soaking up imperfections without adding a bunch of weight. NX drivetrain is solid and simple, brakes are pretty solid for budget level hydraulics(I've had to hammer them a few times). I'm setup tubeless and run about 40-45 psi on the stock tires, no issues so far.
I put a specialized carbon seatpost shortly after purchase. I also have a new Force gxp crankset in route, and excited to ditch the stock stuff. I'm going to try a 40t vs the stock 42t which I have no issue with gearing wise. I also changed out the pedals to specialized sbc-54, which are wide and pretty lightweight, really like them over stock. I suspect carbon bars will happen sometime soon also. Otherwise I'm done with upgrades for this year.

Great bike don't hesitate to purchase if you're on the fence.
Also cover up the headtube, because the brake housing definitely rubs heavily. I put 2 layers of some vinyl I had laying around first thing when I got home.
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Old 06-21-19, 03:54 PM
  #816  
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Also, forgot to mention I'm 5'9" ish, purchased size L
The standover is a touch close, but not uncomfortable. It's the best feeling bike fitwise I've had.
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Old 06-22-19, 07:36 AM
  #817  
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Originally Posted by GravelGurty View Post
Also, forgot to mention I'm 5'9" ish, purchased size L
The standover is a touch close, but not uncomfortable. It's the best feeling bike fitwise I've had.
I agree. I have had my '19 Sirrus Elite carbon for 4 months now. This is the first bike that I did'nt have to swap out a new, comfortable seat. I am 5'11 and the Large fits me perfectly. This is by far the most comfortable bike I have ever owned (I have owned 10 new bikes since 1993). Also very light and quick. The carbon frame soaks up the small road bumps very well. I like the flat grips and bar ends (this is a feature I always want to have). I have the elite carbon which is the low end of the carbon frame model. I hope to upgrade to a higher end Sirrus in the future.
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Old 06-22-19, 08:23 AM
  #818  
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Originally Posted by GravelGurty View Post
Thread bump, first post. Thanks to all who have posted about the new X comp. Today is my third week of ownership. I've logged 130 miles on this fine machine so far (lots of rain here too).

I think badger is pretty spot on with the assessment of the bike. I ride mostly chipped country roads and canal paths, and the future shock (medium spring) is wonderful at soaking up imperfections without adding a bunch of weight. NX drivetrain is solid and simple, brakes are pretty solid for budget level hydraulics(I've had to hammer them a few times). I'm setup tubeless and run about 40-45 psi on the stock tires, no issues so far.
I put a specialized carbon seatpost shortly after purchase. I also have a new Force gxp crankset in route, and excited to ditch the stock stuff. I'm going to try a 40t vs the stock 42t which I have no issue with gearing wise. I also changed out the pedals to specialized sbc-54, which are wide and pretty lightweight, really like them over stock. I suspect carbon bars will happen sometime soon also. Otherwise I'm done with upgrades for this year.

Great bike don't hesitate to purchase if you're on the fence.
Also cover up the headtube, because the brake housing definitely rubs heavily. I put 2 layers of some vinyl I had laying around first thing when I got home.
Good call. Yes, that is a problem. My bike came with a set of variously-sized pre-cut clear patches. Some went on the head tube after about three days, when I finally noticed the rubbing.
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Old 06-22-19, 08:35 AM
  #819  
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I noticed the XL sized bike in the LBS had clear patches already on it in. I didn't notice any in the bag of stuff I got with my bike, oh well.
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Old 06-28-19, 11:42 PM
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Just got a 2019 Sirrus Sport. Overall really happy with it. Fits wells, shifts well, brakes well. Just got back from a 10 mile ride. Really pretty impressed.
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Old 06-30-19, 03:16 PM
  #821  
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I got the GXP bottom bracket and force 1 175mm 40t crankset installed. I don't have a scale, but the stock drive side without chain ring feels like it weighs more than the entire force set. Just a quick ride in, and I didn't notice any shifting issues due to the smaller 40t.
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Old 07-01-19, 04:55 PM
  #822  
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Originally Posted by GravelGurty View Post
I got the GXP bottom bracket and force 1 175mm 40t crankset installed. I don't have a scale, but the stock drive side without chain ring feels like it weighs more than the entire force set. Just a quick ride in, and I didn't notice any shifting issues due to the smaller 40t.
If you don't mind, can you give the exact models for the BB and crankset? I'm sure I can figure it out, but nice to have someone who has done it already. And I assume this has the same chainline as stock? Thanks,

- Mark
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Old 07-01-19, 06:54 PM
  #823  
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Hi Mark,
Just look up the standard GXP bottom bracket, best price I found was on ebay with super quick shipping. I can't post links... sorry. Park tool BBT-19.2 will remove the hollowtech and install the GXP. I used a bit of electrical tape to prevent marring both BB's. Don't recall torque specs off the top of my head. I greased everything prior to install, do not use the provided spacers with the GXP BB, as they are for MTB BB spacing.
As far as the exact model number for the cranks, I don't have one. From all my research the chainline is the same as stock. It took several weeks of trying to score a deal on Ebay for a GXP set. I managed to steal a new take off set with 40T chainring (No OEM packing) for $150. I got 175mm as my previous bike had, vs the stock 172.5. If you want just look into getting new crank arms, as I have confirmed the stock 42T ring bolts right up.
Best of luck!
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Old 07-02-19, 03:26 PM
  #824  
markjenn
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Originally Posted by GravelGurty View Post
Hi Mark,
If you want just look into getting new crank arms, as I have confirmed the stock 42T ring bolts right up.
Thanks for all the info. A little confused about this..... on my Comp X, the stock crank has direct mount chainrings while I thought the Force 1 crankset used a conventional chainring spider and bolts.

- Mark
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Old 07-02-19, 03:50 PM
  #825  
GravelGurty
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The spider itself is direct mount to the crank so you can remove it, and swap in the OE ring if you want.
The Force chainring is 130 BCD (i think) to the spider.
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