The Annual "Take My Winter Bike out of Storage" Thread
#1
born again cyclist
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The Annual "Take My Winter Bike out of Storage" Thread
so with the forecast in chicago calling for our first accumulating snow of the season to start tonight and into friday morning, last night i went down to the basement to dust-off my studded-tire winter steed and get her ready (lube the chain, inflate the tires, make sure the lights work, give the IGH and brakes a check, etc.).
lo and behold, i must have done an inferior job of rinsing her off after last season because the rear brake is completely shot. it looks like corrosion got though the hydraulic line right where it enters the brake housing and all of the hydraulic fluid leaked out.
the front brake is fine, which would be ok for any other season, but i don't like riding in icy/snowy slippery conditions without a rear brake. now i have to decide whether to just roll the dice and ride in the snow tomorrow anyway, or sit-out riding in winter conditions until i can get the rear brake replaced.
there's also the additional decision of whether i should just get a new winter bike altogether instead of spending money on a pricey hydraulic brake replacement. on the one hand, i don't love my current winter bike and we recently came into a little bit of money. on the other hand, it's just a winter bike and she gets the job done. winter abuses bikes, and parts replacements are just par for the course when riding in such salty conditions.
repair what you got, or reach for some new hotness?
lo and behold, i must have done an inferior job of rinsing her off after last season because the rear brake is completely shot. it looks like corrosion got though the hydraulic line right where it enters the brake housing and all of the hydraulic fluid leaked out.
the front brake is fine, which would be ok for any other season, but i don't like riding in icy/snowy slippery conditions without a rear brake. now i have to decide whether to just roll the dice and ride in the snow tomorrow anyway, or sit-out riding in winter conditions until i can get the rear brake replaced.
there's also the additional decision of whether i should just get a new winter bike altogether instead of spending money on a pricey hydraulic brake replacement. on the one hand, i don't love my current winter bike and we recently came into a little bit of money. on the other hand, it's just a winter bike and she gets the job done. winter abuses bikes, and parts replacements are just par for the course when riding in such salty conditions.
repair what you got, or reach for some new hotness?
Last edited by Steely Dan; 11-09-18 at 08:54 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Why not just fix it? Some inexpensive parts, fluid and a bleed kit. Then you are all set for future brake maintenance.
#3
born again cyclist
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^ i've never done hydraulic disc brake repair/replacement.
it's intimidating and something i've always left to the pros.
it's intimidating and something i've always left to the pros.
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Agree, just fix it. I'm no bike mechanic and installed new hydro brakes on my MTB and I bled my wife's brakes (Both Shimano). It isn't that hard and youtube is your friend.
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I've never done them on a bicycle but it's no big deal on the cars and motorcycles I've done this on it wasn't a big deal as long as you have the right parts.
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my recollection of commuting is that there are few, if any stops. but if this is your 1st stormy commute of the year & you have options I'd probably drive or whatever & bring the bike to a shop for an estimate. they can probably bang out the repair speedy quick & have you rolling again soon. get a new bike for sure, but don't rush the purchase
#7
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if i'm gonna buy a new winter bike, i don't wanna sink $80 into the old one.
decisions, decisions........
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Repair or replace? How much is it going to cost to get the winter bike back to like new / almost new? How much would its replacement cost? And how many parts could you reuse?
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Decent bike with hydro brakes will run you quite a few hundred dollars. $80 doesn't seem an exorbitant/unreasonable amount for the fix.
#10
born again cyclist
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it's not exorbitant, but if i'm on the fence about buying a new bike (which i am), i think i'd rather save the 80 bucks and use it towards the theoretical new bike instead of repairing a bike that might be imminently replaced in my stable.
#11
born again cyclist
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i rode the winter bike into work this morning.
reacquainted myself with how much rolling on studs sucks.
i decided that i'm gonna go ahead and get my current winter bike repaired and forgo the temptation of a new winter ride.
when i took the bike into the shop to get the correct brake parts ordered, i mentioned my slippy EBB (the main reason i don't love the bike) to the mechanic and she said that it might be worth considering an add-on chain-tensioner if the EBB refuses to sit still.
i think that's exactly what i'll do. i originally got an IGH bike for my winter ride to avoid extra chain appendages like derailleurs and such, but at this point i no longer care, i just want a chain that won't jump off if i roll over a big bump while pedaling.
reacquainted myself with how much rolling on studs sucks.
i decided that i'm gonna go ahead and get my current winter bike repaired and forgo the temptation of a new winter ride.
when i took the bike into the shop to get the correct brake parts ordered, i mentioned my slippy EBB (the main reason i don't love the bike) to the mechanic and she said that it might be worth considering an add-on chain-tensioner if the EBB refuses to sit still.
i think that's exactly what i'll do. i originally got an IGH bike for my winter ride to avoid extra chain appendages like derailleurs and such, but at this point i no longer care, i just want a chain that won't jump off if i roll over a big bump while pedaling.
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I've had problems with hydraulic brakes too during winter, so I changed to BB7s because I don't want to deal with messy brake fluid and brake rebuilds and brake bleeding...BB7's are good but they're not 100% immune to road salt. I still need to rinse the road salt out of the calipers or else they will seize up.
#13
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I've had problems with hydraulic brakes too during winter, so I changed to BB7s because I don't want to deal with messy brake fluid and brake rebuilds and brake bleeding...BB7's are good but they're not 100% immune to road salt. I still need to rinse the road salt out of the calipers or else they will seize up.
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I've had problems with hydraulic brakes too during winter, so I changed to BB7s because I don't want to deal with messy brake fluid and brake rebuilds and brake bleeding...BB7's are good but they're not 100% immune to road salt. I still need to rinse the road salt out of the calipers or else they will seize up.
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I've had problems with hydraulic brakes too during winter, so I changed to BB7s because I don't want to deal with messy brake fluid and brake rebuilds and brake bleeding...BB7's are good but they're not 100% immune to road salt. I still need to rinse the road salt out of the calipers or else they will seize up.
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#16
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after a couple months of aggravation, i gave up on them and got some TRP Spyres. that was 4 years ago and other than brake pad changes, they haven't given me any issues since.
if others have had good experiences with the BB5, that's great for them, but i'll always consider it a garbage brake.
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My understanding from conversations with very bike-knowledgeable friends is that there were different generations and earlier ones create trouble. I have ridden other peoples bikes with older BB7s with that problem. My own BB7s work just like you describe,
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The only thing that should have an effect on pad wear should be the pads. The calipers shouldn't matter. I have (and have had) BB7s over a wide range of years including the BBDB (ball bearing disc brakes) that predate the BB7 designation. None of them have ever required excessive pad adjustment. And none of them have required adjustment for pad wear after 25 miles.
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The only thing that should have an effect on pad wear should be the pads. The calipers shouldn't matter. I have (and have had) BB7s over a wide range of years including the BBDB (ball bearing disc brakes) that predate the BB7 designation. None of them have ever required excessive pad adjustment. And none of them have required adjustment for pad wear after 25 miles.
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I do not think, that it relates to pad wear. It seems that you adjust the brake and that adjustment is lost after a short amount of time. Maybe it's the caliper, maybe the hub, maybe flex plays a role. I do not have any plausible explanation, but I have ridden such a bike first hand.
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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There's this super-cool low maintenance new bike brake tech I heard about recently:
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...until your v-brake frame mounts start to rust. If you don't have replaceable ones, your (steel) frame is done within 1-2 winter seasons from a rust-clean-abrasion-cycle. *points at myself*.
#23
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I still have the bb7 on the back, which sees much less use, and much less pad wear.
#24
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I still have the bb7 on the back, which sees much less use, and much less pad wear. I think I had to take it apart and free it up once, but I don't remember.
#25
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that seems like an extreme case.