Official Carryme Owners QA Thread (tips, tricks, fixes, mods, etc)
08-21-18, 11:49 PM
#127
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Here are some articles (with photos) of visitors who had visited Pacific Museum.
All articles are in Chinese, but the photos should give you an idea of the museum.
1. ****************************** **********??? ????/**********?? @ ??x?? :: ??? ::
2. ********************-****************************** @ ********************? :: ??? Xuite??
3. **********????(**********?)@smilevalen?iPeen ???
10-15-18, 11:31 AM
#129
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Folding problem
I stupidly put Castor oil on the front down tube during the winter because the cold was causing problems folding. Instead of making it easier it made it much worse to fold. I've tried degreaser, chain lube and just plain cleaning with Dawn. It has helped a little but I still have to use my Swiss Army Knife large flat screwdriver to open up the part that front tube slides through to go under the main frame. I'm thinking of removing that piece on the main frame that folds the tube down and cleaning it out but I hesitate to do so if I can find a cleaning solution that would help remove the grit from the front down tube . Any suggestions ?
10-20-18, 08:43 AM
#130
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Anybody here who has a front carrier for their CarryMe? Still torn getting the official one and Klickfix set (mounting plate + adapter + rack). Maybe there's better alternative.
10-22-18, 12:59 PM
#131
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The plate and the Klickfix work great . You can carry a lot of stuff between the front and the 8 inch wheels. I also made my own rear rack to carry heavy items. I have carried 20 to 30 pounds, you'll be amazed how much you can carry. The bike has a very low center of gravity of course making it ideal for hauling stuff.
11-15-19, 06:08 AM
#132
Stardust
The plate and the Klickfix work great . You can carry a lot of stuff between the front and the 8 inch wheels. I also made my own rear rack to carry heavy items. I have carried 20 to 30 pounds, you'll be amazed how much you can carry. The bike has a very low center of gravity of course making it ideal for hauling stuff.
carryme 16 gears!
carryme folding bike 16 gears
carryme full panniers mode on!
Last edited by BromptonINrio; 11-15-19 at 06:25 AM.
11-18-19, 02:03 PM
#133
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The plate and the Klickfix work great . You can carry a lot of stuff between the front and the 8 inch wheels. I also made my own rear rack to carry heavy items. I have carried 20 to 30 pounds, you'll be amazed how much you can carry. The bike has a very low center of gravity of course making it ideal for hauling stuff.
11-18-19, 05:58 PM
#134
Stardust
11-19-19, 05:42 AM
#135
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16 gear carryme looks nice. But probably a lot of work building the freehub adapter. The guy could have used a bigger jump between the front chainrings for wider gear range. I have a 20T jump on my Dahon.
It would be better if there was some kind of chain/cassette guard at the rear over the freehub, so that when the bike is folded, the protruding cassette doesn't bump into stuff.
It would be better if there was some kind of chain/cassette guard at the rear over the freehub, so that when the bike is folded, the protruding cassette doesn't bump into stuff.
Last edited by tomtomtom123; 11-19-19 at 05:52 AM.
11-20-19, 04:00 AM
#136
Stardust
16 gear carryme looks nice. But probably a lot of work building the freehub adapter. The guy could have used a bigger jump between the front chainrings for wider gear range. I have a 20T jump on my Dahon.
It would be better if there was some kind of chain/cassette guard at the rear over the freehub, so that when the bike is folded, the protruding cassette doesn't bump into stuff.
It would be better if there was some kind of chain/cassette guard at the rear over the freehub, so that when the bike is folded, the protruding cassette doesn't bump into stuff.
but its not that hard....he probably use trike parts, such as this:
trykit 2wd adapter
its hard but doable.
Last edited by BromptonINrio; 11-20-19 at 04:21 AM.
11-20-19, 05:40 AM
#137
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I looked at some videos of freehubs. I think it's probably a cartridge bearing freehub body with the paws removed so that it spins freely, in a custom fixed axle. Somehow the hanger is attached to the end of the axle in a way to prevent it from spinning.
Here a cup and cone freehub has internal paws so it's difficult to use for this purpose.
Here are freehubs with external paws and cartridge bearings so it only has to slide onto an axle.
I think the difficulty is building the framing to get the axle attached to the carryme, and somehow getting the hanger attached to the axle. Maybe Some wrench flats could prevent the axle from spinning in the framing. Similarly, a narrower hanger slot could be interfacing with wrench flats on the other end of the axle.
Here a cup and cone freehub has internal paws so it's difficult to use for this purpose.
Here are freehubs with external paws and cartridge bearings so it only has to slide onto an axle.
I think the difficulty is building the framing to get the axle attached to the carryme, and somehow getting the hanger attached to the axle. Maybe Some wrench flats could prevent the axle from spinning in the framing. Similarly, a narrower hanger slot could be interfacing with wrench flats on the other end of the axle.
Last edited by tomtomtom123; 11-20-19 at 05:53 AM.
11-20-19, 08:01 AM
#138
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Here, i made a mockup of what you might need to build something like this. what's missing from the drawing are the correct sized nuts, washers, bolts, and a cartridge bearing freehub with the paws removed. You could use an 11 speed hub, put on a very large cog first, which gets chained to the actual cog on the wheel, then add on top of it a 9 or 8 speed cassette, which gets chained to the crank and derailleurs. The wrench flats on the axle prevents the axle and hanger from rotating, and the solid round part of the axle is for the cartridge bearings. A threaded hole at the end of the axle is used for the bolt that attaches the hanger.
The axle could probably be made from a standard Shimano axle, and if you have a router machine, cut the flats. Then drill a hole and tap it on one end. Otherwise, you'd have to get a shop to fabricate it for you. Misumi makes these kinds of things for bearing spindles for around $40-50, but I don't know if they thread the ends so deep. Protolabs could probably do it in 3 days on their automatic machines but minium cost is $100.
The hanger could be laser cut from a plate for whatever the minimum charge is for automatic laser cutting service.
The angle plate and rod would have to be fabricated yourself. You could simply cut 2 plates and weld them at an angle. Drill a hole through the center, stick in a rod and weld it. Or lasercut the 2 plates with holes already cut out, and bolt them together with a readily available 45 degree angle joint plate, then the rod could be connected with some kind of collar. The "dropout" plates could also be laser cut, and then you simply weld it to the angle plate. Or the dropout plates could be laser cut as a flat sheet metal, and then you bend the plate into a U shape and bolt it onto the angle plate.
(Edit: oh I didn't draw the B-limit screw tab on the hanger)
The axle could probably be made from a standard Shimano axle, and if you have a router machine, cut the flats. Then drill a hole and tap it on one end. Otherwise, you'd have to get a shop to fabricate it for you. Misumi makes these kinds of things for bearing spindles for around $40-50, but I don't know if they thread the ends so deep. Protolabs could probably do it in 3 days on their automatic machines but minium cost is $100.
The hanger could be laser cut from a plate for whatever the minimum charge is for automatic laser cutting service.
The angle plate and rod would have to be fabricated yourself. You could simply cut 2 plates and weld them at an angle. Drill a hole through the center, stick in a rod and weld it. Or lasercut the 2 plates with holes already cut out, and bolt them together with a readily available 45 degree angle joint plate, then the rod could be connected with some kind of collar. The "dropout" plates could also be laser cut, and then you simply weld it to the angle plate. Or the dropout plates could be laser cut as a flat sheet metal, and then you bend the plate into a U shape and bolt it onto the angle plate.
(Edit: oh I didn't draw the B-limit screw tab on the hanger)
Last edited by tomtomtom123; 11-20-19 at 10:43 AM.
11-21-19, 06:08 AM
#139
Stardust
Here, i made a mockup of what you might need to build something like this. what's missing from the drawing are the correct sized nuts, washers, bolts, and a cartridge bearing freehub with the paws removed. You could use an 11 speed hub, put on a very large cog first, which gets chained to the actual cog on the wheel, then add on top of it a 9 or 8 speed cassette, which gets chained to the crank and derailleurs. The wrench flats on the axle prevents the axle and hanger from rotating, and the solid round part of the axle is for the cartridge bearings. A threaded hole at the end of the axle is used for the bolt that attaches the hanger.
The axle could probably be made from a standard Shimano axle, and if you have a router machine, cut the flats. Then drill a hole and tap it on one end. Otherwise, you'd have to get a shop to fabricate it for you. Misumi makes these kinds of things for bearing spindles for around $40-50, but I don't know if they thread the ends so deep. Protolabs could probably do it in 3 days on their automatic machines but minium cost is $100.
The hanger could be laser cut from a plate for whatever the minimum charge is for automatic laser cutting service.
The angle plate and rod would have to be fabricated yourself. You could simply cut 2 plates and weld them at an angle. Drill a hole through the center, stick in a rod and weld it. Or lasercut the 2 plates with holes already cut out, and bolt them together with a readily available 45 degree angle joint plate, then the rod could be connected with some kind of collar. The "dropout" plates could also be laser cut, and then you simply weld it to the angle plate. Or the dropout plates could be laser cut as a flat sheet metal, and then you bend the plate into a U shape and bolt it onto the angle plate.
(Edit: oh I didn't draw the B-limit screw tab on the hanger)
The axle could probably be made from a standard Shimano axle, and if you have a router machine, cut the flats. Then drill a hole and tap it on one end. Otherwise, you'd have to get a shop to fabricate it for you. Misumi makes these kinds of things for bearing spindles for around $40-50, but I don't know if they thread the ends so deep. Protolabs could probably do it in 3 days on their automatic machines but minium cost is $100.
The hanger could be laser cut from a plate for whatever the minimum charge is for automatic laser cutting service.
The angle plate and rod would have to be fabricated yourself. You could simply cut 2 plates and weld them at an angle. Drill a hole through the center, stick in a rod and weld it. Or lasercut the 2 plates with holes already cut out, and bolt them together with a readily available 45 degree angle joint plate, then the rod could be connected with some kind of collar. The "dropout" plates could also be laser cut, and then you simply weld it to the angle plate. Or the dropout plates could be laser cut as a flat sheet metal, and then you bend the plate into a U shape and bolt it onto the angle plate.
(Edit: oh I didn't draw the B-limit screw tab on the hanger)
its indeed an hardcore project
02-11-20, 09:44 AM
#140
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I would like to know if anyone has changed out the 1/4 inch pitch chain for a standard bicycle chain and crank on the Carryme. I bent my chainring and might be able to straighten it out but this maybe the time to just change out the whole drive train. The front crank I can understand but how to go about a standard bike sprocket for the rear I'm not sure about. This way I can chose the gear ratio and have a longer crank 170mm for more power climbing. I've seen many pictures of bike owners adding standard crank and chains but have no idea how to do it. Any ideas where to start?
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