Stronglight dustcap source?
#1
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Stronglight dustcap source?
So I've been working on a '74 Raleigh Gran Sport and just realized that I'm missing a dust cap on the non-drive side crank.
Now, it isn't entirely necessary that I find a matching Stronglight dust cap, but I was wondering if anyone on here knows of any good sources for them, or has any. Ebay is pretty limited, it seems.
Thanks!
Now, it isn't entirely necessary that I find a matching Stronglight dust cap, but I was wondering if anyone on here knows of any good sources for them, or has any. Ebay is pretty limited, it seems.
Thanks!
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...IAAOSwxeleVrhW
$15 and free shipping. Probably the best you're going to get. Pre-80s Stronglight stuff goes for big $$.
You could also become a member here and post in the C&V sales forum. Maybe someone has an extra they would let go of.
$15 and free shipping. Probably the best you're going to get. Pre-80s Stronglight stuff goes for big $$.
You could also become a member here and post in the C&V sales forum. Maybe someone has an extra they would let go of.
#4
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Or ask in the ISO/trade thread, except, probably, the same people who would respond in the trade thread are probably looking here already. Good luck.
BTW, you might try European ebays.
BTW, you might try European ebays.
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jpjpjp -
Unbranded but stylistically the same dust caps are available here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...MAAOSwExJXofZB
Unbranded but stylistically the same dust caps are available here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...MAAOSwExJXofZB
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Wow, those are prettier than OEM.
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...I've been switching over to these for the past four or five years. It's just easier and does not offend my sensibilities.
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You can always leave them off. That's what all the cool kids (pro racers and wannabees) did, BITD. Lotsa racers wouldn't be caught dead with the dustcaps installed -- they felt that was a newby or fred thing to do.
Even though I was a racer and hung out with racers, I wasn't nearly so dogmatic about it. I like the finished look with the caps on, and they do provide some slight service to justify their weight. But honestly they're mostly for looks, and bikes without them work just fine. When they're installed too tight without any lube on the threads and then allowed to corrode until they cold-welded in place, then they're not very happy-making. So don't do that!
Mark B in Seattle
Even though I was a racer and hung out with racers, I wasn't nearly so dogmatic about it. I like the finished look with the caps on, and they do provide some slight service to justify their weight. But honestly they're mostly for looks, and bikes without them work just fine. When they're installed too tight without any lube on the threads and then allowed to corrode until they cold-welded in place, then they're not very happy-making. So don't do that!
Mark B in Seattle
#11
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You can always leave them off. That's what all the cool kids (pro racers and wannabees) did, BITD. Lotsa racers wouldn't be caught dead with the dustcaps installed -- they felt that was a newby or fred thing to do.
Even though I was a racer and hung out with racers, I wasn't nearly so dogmatic about it. I like the finished look with the caps on, and they do provide some slight service to justify their weight. But honestly they're mostly for looks, and bikes without them work just fine. When they're installed too tight without any lube on the threads and then allowed to corrode until they cold-welded in place, then they're not very happy-making. So don't do that!
Mark B in Seattle
Even though I was a racer and hung out with racers, I wasn't nearly so dogmatic about it. I like the finished look with the caps on, and they do provide some slight service to justify their weight. But honestly they're mostly for looks, and bikes without them work just fine. When they're installed too tight without any lube on the threads and then allowed to corrode until they cold-welded in place, then they're not very happy-making. So don't do that!
Mark B in Seattle
Funny that you mention it... I just tried taking the one that's on there off and surprise, surprise, it seems to be stuck in place. Any suggestions towards getting it out of there?
#12
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this is exactly why those one piece bolts I linked with an integral cap are so appealing. They never do this.
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I unfortunately didn't notice this thread until just now, but I have three spares I would be happy to sell. $18 for all three, shipping to US included.
To remove your stuck one, penetrating oil, heat on the crank arm, gentle tapping on the cap, and patience should work.
To remove your stuck one, penetrating oil, heat on the crank arm, gentle tapping on the cap, and patience should work.
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...it's not a self extractor. It;s just a plastic collar that fits onto a flange on the bolt, so it has no threading. See the following post link to look at them. You still need a suitable Stronglight puller.
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The aluminum block in the middle of the green foam is the pin tool for installing/removing the "cap". That's a little rough, like a prototype, but the rest of the parts are beautiful.
I got these years ago and I sorta doubt he still has any for sale, but you could ask him if you have contact info for him.
Mark B in Seattle
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#17
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jpjpjp -
Unbranded but stylistically the same dust caps are available here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...MAAOSwExJXofZB
Unbranded but stylistically the same dust caps are available here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...MAAOSwExJXofZB
#18
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No one can tell that your cranks (or dust caps) don't match, because they can't see both at once.
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#19
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This is true. I bought a long unused Mercian last night. SN indicates it's a 1985. The one bad pic I had of it seemed to show a Tricolor 600 RD but I couldn't tell much else. Turns out to have what I believe is a C Record crank and front derailleur, SR (I think) brakes and levers without hoods. The left DT shifter is the one that came with 6 speed C Record Synchro (I think) and the right 7 speed indexed shifter is 600 Tricolor. OY! Front rim is Mavic G 40 and the rear is some kind of Weinmann. Hubs front and rear have no easy to identify markings but the QRs are Miche. Stem is Cinelli 1R about a mile long with near mint 66 42 bars and the wrap is old, old, shrunk, shrunk leather. Jeez, what a mess. I can't imagine using those mismatched shifters without creating a singularity. Top tube has an area of pretty bad rust -- looks like sweat induced rust that wasn't properly addressed and progressed under tha paint I think it's repairable. But, the price was mucho bueno, so what can you do?
#20
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The only one-key release bolts for 23.3 mm that I know of were made by Amir Avitzur in Israel. I have a set:
The aluminum block in the middle of the green foam is the pin tool for installing/removing the "cap". That's a little rough, like a prototype, but the rest of the parts are beautiful.
I got these years ago and I sorta doubt he still has any for sale, but you could ask him if you have contact info for him.
Mark B in Seattle
The aluminum block in the middle of the green foam is the pin tool for installing/removing the "cap". That's a little rough, like a prototype, but the rest of the parts are beautiful.
I got these years ago and I sorta doubt he still has any for sale, but you could ask him if you have contact info for him.
Mark B in Seattle
#21
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Thread Starter
Thanks all for the input on dustcaps. Keeping an eye on those slick ones from Australia!
#22
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So did I. We discussed it in ninth grade biology along with blood type. Nobody made an issue about it, it was just sort of interesting.
#23
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The only one-key release bolts for 23.3 mm that I know of were made by Amir Avitzur in Israel. I have a set:
The aluminum block in the middle of the green foam is the pin tool for installing/removing the "cap". That's a little rough, like a prototype, but the rest of the parts are beautiful.
I got these years ago and I sorta doubt he still has any for sale, but you could ask him if you have contact info for him.
Mark B in Seattle
The aluminum block in the middle of the green foam is the pin tool for installing/removing the "cap". That's a little rough, like a prototype, but the rest of the parts are beautiful.
I got these years ago and I sorta doubt he still has any for sale, but you could ask him if you have contact info for him.
Mark B in Seattle
I can be contacted at avitzur.amir@gmail.com if anybody's interested.
Amir
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Thanks for the mention Mark. I still have a set or two. Fun project.
I can be contacted at avitzur.amir@gmail.com if anybody's interested.
Amir
I can be contacted at avitzur.amir@gmail.com if anybody's interested.
Amir
I'm still in the process of checking whether or not my Stronglight cranks require the special extractor but I got a dual TA/Stronglight extractor a few years ago from Poland.
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23mm self extracting crank bolt
A
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