agmetal

I have a chance to get a DL-1 frame for cheap, and I'm playing with the idea of a Pashley Guv'nor/Speed 5-inspired build....but, instead of using north road or Lauterwasser style bars, I'm thinking about a more typical drop bar. Has anyone ever done this, and if so, can you post pictures?

EDIT: I wouldn't be using the rod brakes...I'd use drum brake hubs with regular drop bar brake levers, much like I have on my Panasonic "Stupid Franken-3-Speed"

Lascauxcaveman 

Doesn't sound weird to me. This one has 3 more gears in the hub but it's a shot in the same direction (racier frame geometry, though).

rhm

The main problem I'd see is how to rig brake levers for rod brakes to the handlebar. If you mean to use standard calipers, then no problem.

agmetal

I'd be using drum brakes, no rods. I've set up a 3-speed hub with an STI lever before, and I'm thinking of combining that idea with roadster geometry and wheel size

John E

It sounds like a great project to me, and eliminating rod brakes would strike a great blow for safety.

bertinjim 

agmetal-

The dropped bar to rod brake interface sounds like a problem. For cheap, grab an old Raleigh Grand Prix and drop in a 5 spd rear hub. Gives you dropped bars and functioning brakes with the fewest problems.

Murray Missile 

Wow.

bwilli88 

This 85 Gazelle has a similar geo to the DL-1 and felt that drop bars would not work for me. 2 reasons; 1 it is too tall, 2 my belly is too big to fit into the cramped position with my feet so far forward because of the sloping seat tube. It now has a Brooks pro and some flat bars with a nice curve to the rear ( the bars look like a nice parenthesis). A smaller size would be ok with the seat really far front on the seat post.
Also realize that the head tube angle makes the bars turn in a funky manner.
This is running a SA drum front brake and SRAM 2 speed auto rear Coaster brake with 28" rims 635 ERT and Schwalbe cruiser tires. Fun bike to ride and really moves because of the gear ratio.

agmetal

Cable-actuated drums, not rods. This is all about the geometry and 28" wheels.

rhm

Well then I don't see any reason you can't do it.

That said I can't go so far as to call it a good idea. Most bicycle designers since 1950 or so would tell you the incredibly slack frame geometry is obsolete for good reason, but if it's what you like, go for it.

I have done my time playing with drum brakes, and have reluctantly come to the conclusion that they're a pain in the neck; but again, if that's what you like, go for it.

The same goes for 28" wheels. I know the guys riding "29ers" will disagree, but I think the larger diameter gives no advantage, while the heavy rims and tires are a distinct disadvantage; but like I said... if that's what you want....

agmetal

What can I say? I enjoy cognitive dissonance and anachronisms. I already own a bike with a front drum brake and an STI lever controlling a vintage AW hub, and a 1930s roadster....now I want to combine those ideas with some Pashley Guvnor influence mixed in

crank_addict

Surely could be done and less challenging than a DL1 with rod actuated. Cable operated, yes. Anyways, RHM summed it up well.

As for myself, been sidetracked on far too many things lately but did start on a DL1 project w/ Nasbar steel Lauterwasser style bars. The goal of retaining rod brake linkage. Shop made braze-ons for the bar, lots of custom bending of rods, etc.. Mostly experimental, weird angles. Conclusion was a loss of leverage, more time than its worth and have parked it all. There's a few pics on the net of very early racers (1930's?) with a similar arrangement. But for something different and one has the time, go for it.

clubman 

You'll probably want to source a horizontal 'L' seat post to get forward enough for drop bars. That, and a small frame and a short stem may get you into a rideable position.

clubman 

off-topic, kinda. Check out the stem/fork combo on this 'Bradbury'. Doesn't look comfortable to me.

agmetal

Yeah, I'll be using a 22" frame, and probably a zero-setback seatpost

sailorbenjamin

You can flip the seat bracket over to get an inch or two further forward. I was wanting to try this for a long time. It's tough to get all the hardware to make things compatible but I was always on a tight budget. Look to the old racers for inspiration. Have fun and keep us posted!
I got about this far before I found some other project to distract me. I had collected alloy rims and a fixed gear hub but never got around to lacing them.

agmetal

Well, it turns out that the guy doesn't actually have the frame he thought he did. I do have a 24" one here at home that I could use, but I don't think I quite have the legs to stand over it.

agmetal

This is just kind of quickly thrown together with bits that I have lying around, but this is the basic look of the idea I have in mind. The saddle is set to roughly the height I'd need it to be to ride, and the stem is in as far as the light bracket will allow (plus the stem and handlebar give slightly too much reach). A 22" frame would be the same length, but would give me more standover clearance.

Velognome 

Once the novelty wears off, you'll be left with a heavy, slug. Search for a light frame with the proper geometry, you can find it among British Frames from the 30's & 50's. Sellers like Hilary Stone are a good source to watch, some even end up in his "Bargain" section.

It will cost you a few coin but you'll end up with a bike you'll enjoy to ride.

daf1009

Sounds cool...

rhm

The seat tube angle is not the problem; as has been mentioned, you can put the seat clamp on the front of the post, or use a gallows style post, to move the seat to the correct position in relation to the crank. That's easy. But with the DL-1 style roadster frame, you'll still be left with the impossibly slack head tube.

So, for example, my Fothergill (built either just before, or just after WW 2):



The seat tube is as slack as a roadster, but I have the seat mounted in a normal position by reversing the clamp; but the head tube is a relatively modern 73 degrees or so. The frame looks archaic, but in fact rides fine.

Maybe you can find a DL-1 that's been in a head-on collision, giving it a steeper head angle. That would ride much better.

agmetal

I think a lot of you are missing the point of what I'm trying to do

rhm

Well, speaking for myself, yes. Guilty as charged.

On the other hand, could it be that you're missing the point of what a lot of us are trying to do?

agmetal

Perhaps, but how many of the commenters have ridden a roadster? My '37 is faster than most people expect, climbs surprisingly well, and does really well on gravel and bumpy roads. A lot of that is due to the steering geometry, the large wheels, and long crank arms....and the weight helps keep it rolling once it's up to speed.

ThermionicScott 

That's the thought that came to my mind, too. If I have one complaint about my drop-bar MTB conversion, it's that even with long-reach handlebars and a stem with decent effective reach by itself, my hands end up well behind the front wheel's axle. The headtube has an angle of 70 or 71°, and so there is more flop and "fight" to the steering than a regular road bike. It's acceptable for how I use the bike, but I wouldn't want it to be any worse.

But this is not to talk @agmetal out of the project, I want him to see it through and get his impressions afterward.