Brifter 101 help please
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,817
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,326 Times
in
782 Posts
Brifter 101 help please
I know nothing about brifters, other than what they are.
A friend has come with a drop-bar bike and asked if they can have brifters. It's a Norco Monterey with a Suntour R rear mech and a six-speed block.
What does she need - we're a looking for low cost solution.
A friend has come with a drop-bar bike and asked if they can have brifters. It's a Norco Monterey with a Suntour R rear mech and a six-speed block.
What does she need - we're a looking for low cost solution.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 1,053
Bikes: Gunnar, Shogun, Concorde, F Moser, Pete Tansley, Rocky Mtn, Diamant, Krapf, Marin, Avanti, Winora, Emmelle, Ken Evans
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 275 Post(s)
Liked 417 Times
in
218 Posts
the suntour mech won't index with shimano brifters, nor will the 6spd freewheel.
as far as new parts, you'd want an Altus RD-M310 derailer, Tourney STI shifters, and a 7 speed Tourney freewheel (which will thread on the hub but may require an extra driveside spacer, possibly a longer axle, and a redished wheel to center.
Or, a cassette wheel and a 7 speed shimano cassette (or 8 speed, or 9 etc speed everything parts)
For used, most 7 or 8 speed shimano derailers would work. As would any old RSX or whatever 7 speed STI shifters you can find. It has to be 7 speed if you keep the screw on cluster wheel as you can only get a 7 speed freewheel with the correct shimano spacing on there.
Honestly it doesn't make that much sense. I would suggest some friction bar end shifters, or convert to cruiser bar with some thumbies or a different bike.
as far as new parts, you'd want an Altus RD-M310 derailer, Tourney STI shifters, and a 7 speed Tourney freewheel (which will thread on the hub but may require an extra driveside spacer, possibly a longer axle, and a redished wheel to center.
Or, a cassette wheel and a 7 speed shimano cassette (or 8 speed, or 9 etc speed everything parts)
For used, most 7 or 8 speed shimano derailers would work. As would any old RSX or whatever 7 speed STI shifters you can find. It has to be 7 speed if you keep the screw on cluster wheel as you can only get a 7 speed freewheel with the correct shimano spacing on there.
Honestly it doesn't make that much sense. I would suggest some friction bar end shifters, or convert to cruiser bar with some thumbies or a different bike.
Likes For Soody:
#3
Death fork? Naaaah!!
As above, but I would go with Microshift brifters. I like the separate upshift/downshift paddles.
Top
Top
__________________
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,216 Times
in
1,103 Posts
The criteria for indexing is to have the "pull" of the shifter match the movement of the RD that has to match the spacing of the rear block.
Then the issue with making it work is the spacing of the rear over lock dimension between the drop outs to accommodate a 7speed block on the hub. Then it is about chain line for good shifting.
Explore the Sheldon Brown site. you might start here: 6-speed, 7-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed? (sheldonbrown.com).
Then the issue with making it work is the spacing of the rear over lock dimension between the drop outs to accommodate a 7speed block on the hub. Then it is about chain line for good shifting.
Explore the Sheldon Brown site. you might start here: 6-speed, 7-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed? (sheldonbrown.com).
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
#5
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,858
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2930 Post(s)
Liked 2,923 Times
in
1,491 Posts
If the Norco has a RD hanger I'd find a donor bike and take everything of and put it on the Norco.
Personally I don't get all the hubbub abut 'brifters' but perhaps I don't ride fast enough or in hilly enough terrain. For my riding style style 7 or 8 speed with Dt indexing or friction is OK
Personally I don't get all the hubbub abut 'brifters' but perhaps I don't ride fast enough or in hilly enough terrain. For my riding style style 7 or 8 speed with Dt indexing or friction is OK
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#6
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,608
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10954 Post(s)
Liked 7,482 Times
in
4,184 Posts
To get 7sp, you need new shifters, new cassette(freewheel), new rear derailleur, new front derailleur, new cables and housing, and new bar tape.
To get 8sp or higher, you need all the above plus a new rear wheel.
As mentioned, Microshift will be the cheapest STI option. You can get 2x7 for $45-65 on ebay, depending on timing. Plan on this costing at least $150 at 7sp with entry level components.
To get 8sp or higher, you need all the above plus a new rear wheel.
As mentioned, Microshift will be the cheapest STI option. You can get 2x7 for $45-65 on ebay, depending on timing. Plan on this costing at least $150 at 7sp with entry level components.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,216 Times
in
1,103 Posts
I read a lot of people have a fear of letting go of the bar but that comes with time and self confidence. If you ride a lot, there is no fear of one or no handed riding. There is a technique to riding a bicycle effectively, many haven't learned that yet, like who steers with the bars over 10 MPH?!
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
#8
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 17,939
Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10414 Post(s)
Liked 11,875 Times
in
6,082 Posts
I get that. I was skeptical until I tried them. One of my goals is to get my RPM up. I find that the Ergos, in my case, cause me to shift more often, keeping my cadence up, and can do so without much planning ahead. there are times when I need to react quickly and DT's don't always give me the option to change gears during the reaction period. Not a big thing but I like the added flexibility. The bigger hoods are nice too I now ride a lot on the hoods. Non aero campy hoods are a bit tiresome over time.
I read a lot of people have a fear of letting go of the bar but that comes with time and self confidence. If you ride a lot, there is no fear of one or no handed riding. There is a technique to riding a bicycle effectively, many haven't learned that yet, like who steers with the bars over 10 MPH?!
I read a lot of people have a fear of letting go of the bar but that comes with time and self confidence. If you ride a lot, there is no fear of one or no handed riding. There is a technique to riding a bicycle effectively, many haven't learned that yet, like who steers with the bars over 10 MPH?!
You're right about not having to plan ahead. I find with brifters I am constantly responding to load and cadence and keeping it all in a fairly narrow range. Mostly I don't even have to adjust the pressure on the pedals while shifting, just *click* and it's in the next gear. On Strava, my cadence graph is almost completely flat, with sharp drops where I stop pedaling. I'm really curious to see what happens when I ride with DT shifters.
__________________
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,389
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1559 Post(s)
Liked 1,733 Times
in
973 Posts
The OP is looking for a low cost solution. There is no need to buy all new parts. Basically all 7 to 10 speed shimano road rear derailleur (except for Tiagra 4700 and Dura Ace 74**) will work for this application. As for the freewheel- keep it 13t or smaller for the small cog. A 14t + small cog could interfere with chain stay. Avoid the DNP one though since that one is extra thick.
By the way, if the 7 sp freewheel fouls the chain stay, all hope is not lost. As a last and not so cheap resort, you can run a Suntour 'Ultra' 6 speed freewheel. This 'Ultra' 6sp has the same cog spacing as the 7 speed freewheels, so they are compatible with the 7 speed brifters. You will have 6 gears to work with, and an unused click on the brifter.
By the way, if the 7 sp freewheel fouls the chain stay, all hope is not lost. As a last and not so cheap resort, you can run a Suntour 'Ultra' 6 speed freewheel. This 'Ultra' 6sp has the same cog spacing as the 7 speed freewheels, so they are compatible with the 7 speed brifters. You will have 6 gears to work with, and an unused click on the brifter.
Last edited by icemilkcoffee; 03-01-21 at 12:53 PM.
Likes For icemilkcoffee:
#12
PeopleCode delaminator
Participating in a local bike co-op may allow a greater spectrum of available cheap(er) parts and/or candidate donor bikes.
They're a difference maker for me, especially with an 11 speed rear cluster. As much as I love old bikes parts, any bike where I'm going to have extensive and frequent saddle time will always have brifters and at least 11 speeds.
#13
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,619
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3880 Post(s)
Liked 6,468 Times
in
3,200 Posts
Originally Posted by oneclik
What does she need? We're a looking for low cost solution.