Who Knows a little about Peugeot PX-10 seat tube construction?
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Someone theorized that the plug in my steer tube is to prevent the entrance of water. That makes more sense to me than reinforcing a steel tube with a piece of wood. The plug could very well be cork. It feels very light when I push it up.
You don't need to cut up a frame to check for corks in the top and down tubes. Just fish a wire through the vent holes at the seat and head tubes.
You don't need to cut up a frame to check for corks in the top and down tubes. Just fish a wire through the vent holes at the seat and head tubes.
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#30
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Maybe they drank a nice bottle of wine after making each frame and christened it by shoving the cork down the seat tube.
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Or maybe... the better bikes served as tubular wine bottles and those of us with corked seat tubes can expect their bikes to yield a fine vintage wine.
>>>> puts mouth to seat tube <<<<<
Hey, does Park make a really long corkscrew???
>>>> puts mouth to seat tube <<<<<
Hey, does Park make a really long corkscrew???
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So you're saying Peugeot wine is still maturing and don't touch that frickin' cork?
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Greetings all. I realize that this thread is 10 years old(!), but I just chanced upon it after doing a web search for the seat tube plug. I really thought that would be a long-shot, but here we are. Anyway, my recently acquired PX10 has exactly the same feature, which I only discovered while cleaning out the tube with a long bottle brush prior to some anti-corrosion treatment. So yes, the mystery persists, although the cork plug/seal to stop debris falling onto the BB while the seat pin is removed makes some sense.
I also have the fork crown plug...
I also have the fork crown plug...
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Can mice get into a seat tube? The only thing I could think of.
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My understanding about the hardwood dowel in the underside of Peugeot fork crowns was indeed a safety measure reflecting the dead hand of history and one of the Tour de France's most epic stories - Eugene Christophe having to find a blacksmith's shop and repair his forks when they broke in the 1913 TdF. He was riding for Peugeot when it happened.
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Back in the 1970s it was still fairly common for high end bicycles to be equipped with tubular seat posts that had an open top. On wet days, if you rode without fenders, the rear tyre would throw off the dirty water, creating a line up the back of your jersey. Some would also hit the underside of the saddle and could drip down the open top of the seat post and into the bottom bracket. A cork plug in the seat tube could be used to mitigate this problem. However, it was more effective to cork the top end of the seat post, which is what I used to do.
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When working on @jyl's '61 Bianchi Speciallisima 650b conversion, I ran into the same thing.
I charged him a corkage fee.
I charged him a corkage fee.
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I agree that plugging the top of the seat post would be a better approach.
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The creativity the French employed to keep the good wine from the Nazis never ceases to amaze.
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I would think a plug of any material (cork, wood, etc.) would just collect water at the top and lead to rust in that seat tube, no? I would think a more successful approach would be to let what small amount of water that gets in drip down into the bottom bracket shell and out through a drain hole drilled in the shell.
So why is it always down 8" or thereabouts? The theory that it's in there to damp down resonance/vibration would only make sense to me if the top and down tubes were similarly 'corked', but unless someone dismantles a frame we might never know.
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I would think a plug of any material (cork, wood, etc.) would just collect water at the top and lead to rust in that seat tube, no? I would think a more successful approach would be to let what small amount of water that gets in drip down into the bottom bracket shell and out through a drain hole drilled in the shell.
Which is why you don't see this on more modern bikes.
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BTW, spade drill with extension is the way to get it out if it's stuck.
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