cudak888 

Edd is one of the online spoke calculators: https://leonard.io/edd/

The G9 is no lightweight; feels just a bit lighter than a pair of AW hubs - the finished rear wheel comes out to 6 pounds, but overall, that isn't bad for a 9-speed IGH.

That sure is a pretty frame. It's surprising how much the generic brown plastic bits - and that handlebar and stem - weren't doing it any favors. Any plans for that?

-Kurt

JaccoW

That's not bad at all, at least its not a Sachs Elan 12-speed with its 3.4Kg (7.5lbs) for just the hub.
Does that include the tyres as well? The Schwalbe Delta cruiser is 695 grams so I could probably lose a bit of weight by changing that for a lighter skinwall like a Fairweather Cruise (369 grams/0.81 lbs) which are basically cream Panaracer Paselas.

You're right, the yellowed dressguard and black bits really make the bike look generic and dated though I'm sure this bike could look sleek with black wheels and all.

The fenders are going on the pile of spare parts and I will probably put the wheels and handlebars on the RoadAce for the time being until I fully scrap that frame.

As for what I'm doing with this bike, I have a tall Nitto Technomic stem on the way and I will probably take the staineless steel North Road handlebars from the RoadAce and flip them upside down. Or maybe some moustache bars if I want a slightly bigger lean forward. I'll have to see when they get here which one is more comfortable.
Steel fenders and black leather bits should complete the look.

cudak888 

7.5 pounds for an eventually self-destructing boat anchor? No thank you

The wheel was 6.5lbs without the tire, tube, or rimstrip. If the Deltas perform well though, no real reason to swap them.

I had similar silver SKS Chromoplastic (or their 1990's equivalent) on a Trek 720 once, and I cannot see at all what people find attractive about them, even when new. They just don't present well to the eyes; too much to comprehend on a very narrow surface.

Are good steel fenders a thing there? Would have thought aluminum would be preferred. Or do those have a low survival rate in the racks?

-Kurt

JaccoW

It depends. I think most modern bikes use either plastic SKS fenders or aluminum/plastic laminates by Curana.

However, if long term durability is really important bikes tend to have stainless steel mudguards. I have a couple of vintage mudguards and they all tend to be SS, probably a survivor bias thing. Even modern "OV-fiets" public transport bikes seem to use painted stainless steel models.

I think you see less plain aluminum fenders because most people live quite close to the sea here and leave their bikes out overnight. Meaning bare aluminum tends to rot away in those conditions. So again, it's either painted or just not used at all.
Personally I have bad experiences with aluminum on bikes. On my Gazelle I have had to replace the aluminum kickstand a couple of times already as they just disintegrate after a couple of winters. Pletscher seems to hold up much better.

For this bike I plan on using Gilles Berthoud fenders. They are cheaper around here than Velo Orange aluminum fenders and don't seem to be that much heavier.

Nothing wrong with modern SKS fenders though.

cudak888 

Interesting. How do aluminum-shelled hubs fare? Or does the clear anodizing keep them intact for a while?

Berthouds are beautiful. Should make that blue pop!

Nothing wrong with the fact that SKS offers Bluemels either ...except their price.

-Kurt

JaccoW

The ones I've seen in person seem to fare pretty well. There were some spots on my own hub but nothing too bad.
I have however, seen some pretty bad examples from second-hand sellers. Though I suspect these were used near the sea with this much corrosion.


I've used the Berthouds on my girlfriend's Gazelle mixte. They are holding up pretty well and were fairly easy to mount.
Looking forward to working with them again.

SKS used to offer the longblades in "cappuccino", a cream color, I think those would look great on your Raligh Sports.

cudak888 

Not the worst hubs I've seen, but definitely the crustiest aluminum IGHs I've set eyes on. Then again, I rarely have an opportunity to set eyes on an IGH around here, except my own.

I'll be darned if I can find the Longblade listed; only the Raceblade. Sports does pretty nicely with it's original fenders; not going to change that up. Looks a lot better now that the coffin reflector is off the back.

-Kurt

JaccoW

Whelp, I should probably start saving up for the import taxes I probably have to pay when the pedals (and other accoutrements) come in. Tracking shows it is being held up by customs so that will be a *ahum* nice 21% VAT I'll have to pay...

Ah well, can't win them all. I used to be able to order stuff abroad and only occasionally have it be taxed. It's part if living in the Netherlands I guess.
The more annoying thing is that it might take up to 2 weeks for things to be released and sent my way.

cudak888 

Have thankfully dodged import duties on most of the bits I've ordered so far, though it's rare that I have to order anything outside the US, but my '80 Sports is pressing that issue. The generator hub? Thailand. Front brake? Japan. The still-haven't-ordered-it taillight? Germany.

Fun stuff...

-Kurt

noglider 

Steel fenders seem the most practical, but they are heavy. Stainless steel? Never seen them, but they sound great.

JaccoW

@noglider I have a vintage pair of Weinmann's on my Batavus and a modern pair of Berthoud's on the Gazelle Lausanne.


The (expensive) package from Japan came in today.




The pedals feel really smooth and no play at all.

cudak888 

Looks like the SilverAce is rapidly becoming a GoldAce.

-Kurt

P.S.: If you can, can you post a photo of the rear chaincase mounting bracket that goes to the inside of the chainstay? My Gazelle Whale has a braze-on there - yet, the chaincase does not mount to it; it fits onto a really terrible tab that sits loose on the hub axle (you have to index it while tightening the hub down). I want to see if I can find a replacement case that will fit that braze on and avoid the terrible design I'm dealing with now.

JaccoW

Lol, never thought of that. XD

Sure ,I'll probably build up the chain case again next weekend. As for the tab, I think most full chaincase designs have a double tab that gets mounted between the bottom bracket and the frame. It's simply the most sturdy design. Alternatives are hockey-style guards that attach using big p-clips like old French chainguards or Velo Orange's model.

clubman 

Vintage, dynohub-compatible German taillight, black metal with glass lens. Send me your address if you'd like it.

cudak888 

PM incoming.

-Kurt

JaccoW

Still waiting for the bottom bracket... but I can assemble the cranks already right?

JaccoW

Got some small parts in to properly mount the wheel. Most notably the bolts for the axle. Turns out the 5-speed uses a different sized bolt that the older 3-speeds.


I wanted to mount the bottom bracket and put the chaincase back on but it gets stuck.
The first couple of threads go just fine but then after about 4mm in the whole assembly goes sideways and gets stuck. I can't see any crossthreading though. The old bottom bracket that came out has the exact same problem so it seems like the problem is the frame. I'll probably drop by a bike shop tomorrow and ask if they can retap the threads.

To be continued!

cudak888 

Shouldn't be an issue; wouldn't worry too much about it; probably just a burr in there that got wedged when the original BB was pulled (probably for the first time)!

Might be good to have it faced at the same time, if there's any paint on the BB shell edge surface.

-Kurt

JaccoW

I just asked them to tap the threading. Facing the shell isn't as necessary on square taper and since this frame will spend quite some time outdoor I don't want to risk the rust.
Even with proper grease in there and with chainguards I'd rather have everything covered up.

I remember aluminum kickstands being eaten alive in a few of our winters.
The cheap cast aluminum ones though, on modern Gazelle's, not the older Pletscher's. I still see the latter on old bikes that are well over 30-40 years old.

JaccoW

Brought the bike back from the shop today. Everything was clean and now the bottom bracket was a lot easier to insert.

I also took the rear carrier from the RoadAce and put it on here.

cudak888 

Looking good. Still rather curious how the chaincase fits at the back - slotted to the axle or fitted to the chainstay?

-Kurt

JaccoW

Ah yes, I forgot to shoot an in-between image. Basically there is a single screw on the back of the chainstay that mounts a small bracket. So the front is resting on the metal bracket that is mounted between the bottom bracket and the rear is held in place by a small metal bracket with two screws going through it.

Better pics when I take everything apart for mounting the chain later.

It's a model made by Hesling by the way.

cudak888 

About how far down the chainstay is that screw and bracket? Is it roughly in the same place the inboard chainguard tab mount is on this Novara? This is roughly the same place as where it is on my Gazelle.



-Kurt

JaccoW

Yeah pretty much.


The red dots are screws or screw holes.
In green you see both brackets that attach the chaincase to the frame.
The red lines are where it comes apart.

cudak888 

Exactly what I had hoped...answers my question about this:




Too bad finding chaincases in the US is next to impossible.

-Kurt