pkniland

Hello to all.
I have always been a mountain bike guy and just recently picked up an old Nashbar Touring bike that the plan is to strip down, repaint, and modestly upgrade. Bike came with Shimano 105 group set, Tektro inline brakes, FSA Velro 30/39/50, shimano 11-36 , Mavic Open Sport with 28C continentals on it. The front fork was pretty rough so my plan was to get a new fork and headset. I got the bike stripped down and go the headset removed. This is my first threaded fork Ive worked on but everything came apart pretty easy. I went to research fork/headset combos and quickly got confused. The measurements on my head tube do not seem to match and headset I can find. The headtube has two flared cups, one on the top, and one on the bottom. The cup on the top has an ID of 39.4, the cup on the bottom has a ID of 42.06. The depth of the top cup is 7.15 and the depth of the lower is 9.89. I am looking for advise of possible headset fork combos that might work. It wont let me attach any pictures currently, but I will as soon as I have enough posts.

pkniland

Thanks for putting this in the correct place Stan

longtemp

Japan and Europe 1 inch headsets are different. Japan is JIS and Europe is ISO.
Park Tool Headset Standards for Threaded: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eadset-service

Park Tool Headset Standards for headtube measurements: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...dset-standards

Kontact 

I have no idea what dimension those are, but they don't sound the dimensions of the frame or the fork steerer tube, but measurements of where the headset bearings go.

Is this bike metallic green? Aluminum, steel?

JohnDThompson 

Are the bearing races worn to the point where they need replacement? If not, just re-pack with fresh balls and grease and be happy.

rseeker

@pkniland Can't wait to see pictures. You could try welcoming some newcomers in the introductions subforum.

pkniland

pkniland

pkniland

ksryder

Have you tried contacting Nashbar? Their support staff is moderately responsive.

Kontact 

The dimension of the inside of the replaceable headset isn't going to tell you anything about the frame or fork, just how the headset was designed.

The inside of the fork steerer tube being 27mm doesn't ring any bells. Standard 1 1/8" steerers are closer to 25.4 on the inside, but maybe that's what you have.

The dimensions you need are the outside diameter of the fork steerer (probably 28.6mm) and the inside diameter of the head tube after you've knocked the headset cups out. Finally, you need to choose whether you want threaded fork and headset or threadless. 1" threaded forks are easy to find, 1 1/8" threaded forks, despite some popularity at one time, much harder. Threadless is no problem.

You almost certainly have a 1 1/8" or 1" frame, and either of those are easy to find headsets and forks for. You'll also need to figure out the axle to crown length of your old fork to get a suitable replacement, as well as the rake and brake type. But we can figure that out later.

pkniland

Kontact 

With the cups removed, or the bearing removed from the cups? It sounds like you are measuring the headset cups, not the frame. The frame is painted, the headset cups are likely silver or black metal, and are pressed into the frame.

If the fork is 1", how was the inside of it 27mm?

pkniland

Kontact 

I'm willing to bet that you just don't realize they are removable because they are pressed in, but I'd be happy to be wrong and see something truly weird.

pkniland

pkniland

pkniland

pkniland

Kontact 

Like I said, those aren't part of the frame, those are pressed in headset cups. You hammer them out and they get replaced when you buy the new headset. They look like this when removed:


You were measuring the inside diameters of a part you're going to throw away. You need the inside diameter of the headtube when they are out. It should be 30.2mm. Then you'll buy an "ISO" or standard 1" headset and a 700c touring fork with a 26.4 crown to match. At which point you might decide to go threadless for both fork and headset, which I think is easier and a little lighter.

Ronsonic 

Use a headset remover or a long straight blade screwdriver, knock out the old cups. Measure again and start plugging numbers into here: https://blue.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

Or, put your local bike shop to work and let them get you something that will work. Or at least remove the cups for you.

tcpasley

You can make your own headset cup remover from a piece of copper tubing.

Dave Moulton's Blog - Dave Moulton's Bike Blog - Headset Removal and Replacement

1 inch threadless headsets and forks are getting harder to find. They are out there, but your choices are limited.

Kontact 

You can only get 1" threadless headsets from Miche, Cane Creek, Ritchey, Chris King, VP, Origin 8 and Promax. They start around $17.

pkniland

pkniland