perspiration

Hi folks, looking into building my first full bike from the frame up. Damn this stuff is expensive. Basic parts list below, anyone see anything I should be concerned about? I love the Fog Cutter frame and found at least one good review of running it with Soma's low-trail fork to let it carry a front load.

Frame: Soma Fog Cutter
https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...tter-frame-set

Fork: Soma Champs-Elysees 700c Low Trail Disc
https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...c-touring-fork

Crankset: Shimano 105 r7000 52-36T Silver
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../FC-R7000.html

Cassette: Shimano 105 r7000 11-32T
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../CS-R7000.html

Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 r7000 Black
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...D-R7000-F.html

Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 r7000 GS Black
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...-R7000-GS.html

Headset: Tange/IRD Needle Blaster (currently out of stock, but similar would be desirable)
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/...r-roller-drive

Stem: Could use advice on this, proper fit will be a question. My Surly currently angles up.

Handlebar: Brevet Rando Bar (Ergo)
https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...-bar-ergo-bend

Handlebar Wrap: ???? Leather ???? probably black in color.

Brakes: Shimano 105 r7000 Hydraulic Disc
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...R-R7070-F.html
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...R-R7070-R.html

Brake Rotors: Shimano 105 r7000 Rotor
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...0/SM-RT70.html

Shift/Brake Levers: Shimano 105 r7000 hydraulic disc
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...T-R7020-R.html
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...T-R7020-L.html

Pedals: Probably Shimano M540 black
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-PD-M5...ano+spd+pedals

Bottom Bracket Shimano 105 r7000 BB
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...CBottomBracket

Seatpost: ******************** no strong opinions, black, fits, not expensive

Saddle: Will probably try the Cambium C17 cutout version.
https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/...her-black.html

Wheels: 32h 650b something. Pacenti Brevets? Velocity Ailerons?
Velocity Wheels - Hand Made in USA

https://pacenticycledesign.com/produ...1speed-shimano

Chain: Whatever works

Fenders: VO 700c fluted? VO 650b zeppelin? Silver.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/...n-fenders-650b

https://velo-orange.com/collections/...m-fenders-700c

Front Hub Dynamo: SON Hub Thru-Axle silver anodized (need help w/ sizing)

Rear Hub: ???? Shimano 105 r7000 rear?
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../FH-R7070.html

Tires: WTB Bypass 47mm 650b These may not work with the bike. Also looking at Compass Babyshoe Pass 42mm to fit the frame/fork better.

Front Rack: VO Rando Rack
https://builtbyswift.com/shop/velo-o...ated-decaleur/

Front Bag: Probably can't afford it yet, but likely a Swift Ozette.

unterhausen

do they recommend that fork on that frame? I didn't see any A-C measurement, but granted I didn't look too hard

perspiration

Not directly recommended, but it does seem to fit nicely. This guy did it here:

https://drandalls.wordpress.com/2018...il-fog-cutter/
https://drandalls.wordpress.com/2019...cutter-update/

Also A-C on the fork is 398mm axle-to-crown.

tyrion

Frame/fork take quick release skewers. Can these TA hubs be adapted for that?

Also, you listed flat mount brakes, and the frame/fork has IS mounts. Not sure there's an adapter to bridge that.

Also, 47mm tires might be too fat for frame+fenders.

perspiration

Thanks for the warnings, I admit I'm a novice when it comes to shopping for these very specific components. If the TA hubs don't work I'm fine going to the non-TA ones. I just hear TA is better for discs.

The fat tires is a concern of mine. I'd really like the fat WTBs but may have to find an alternative to fit the fenders.

kingston 

Couple thoughts:

• That gearing wouldn't work for me, but I'm not you.
• Rear hub needs a 135 OLD. The VO hub looks good with a Schmidt front hub.
• You'll need lights to go with that dynamo
• The soma website says that matching aluminum fenders are available. I'd look into those. I think matching fenders looks awesome.

unterhausen

the TA dynohub is a lot more expensive and you would need an adapter. But it's possible that future-proofing is worth the extra money to you. I certainly prefer TA forks for disc.

perspiration

curious what your thoughts are on the gearing - I think I may need a bigger granny gear in back but that was the biggest 105 cassette I saw. Not that I have to be married to the groupset.

kingston 

Gearing is super personal so what works for me might not work for you. I also assume you are planning to use this bike for randonneuring since you posted in this forum. I like narrow spacing right around 70", a high around 100" and a low around 30". If I were building that bike, I would almost certainly go with a triple chainset and bar-end shifters to get both the narrow spacing and the low gears. I like bar end shifters better than brifters for long distance, which is also a personal preference thing. With an 11 speed double I could live with a 46-30 and a 12-25 cassette, or I could make a 46-34 work with a lot of grunt up the big hills. A 52T chainring isn't necessary for long distance unless you are either really fast or a low-cadence masher. I can spin up to around 40mph at 100", and I'm fine coasting after that, so any gear bigger than that just won't get used. I also don't like the aesthetic of the shimano hollowtech chainsets on a steel frame (I have one and don't like it), and have had much better luck with square taper bottom brackets, so that's what I would go with on a new build.

perspiration

Cool, thank you. This is my first time trying to do this component by component, so I sorta just went with 105 across the board to get the conversation going and am fine tuning from there.. Do you have other makes of crankset that you'd recommend I check out?

*Edit* you are correct this would be for Randonneuring. I'm trying to build something slightly sportier than my current commuter cross check build which WORKS (I did a SR series last year on it) but could be better.

unterhausen

A 46 tooth big chain ring has made me a lot happier with a compact crank. I use SRAM mtb rear derailleur, because you can shift it with road shifters and it will take a big cassette in the rear. I always thought that 36 tooth cassette was overkill, but I end up in it all the time. You can get the 105 derailleur to shift something like that with a Wolf Tooth hanger extender, or a 34 by adjusting the b limit screw.

I would find out what the Seattle randos are typically riding. My impression is that the mountains out there are somewhat flatter than those on the east coast. I suppose there was a time when I could have used a 52-11 gear, but it's generally better to coast at that kind of speed. Plenty of time to pedal on a randonnee.

antimonysarah

Darth Lefty 

That sounds like a bike I'd like to try

clasher

I have this tape and it's amazing stuff... I bought the 3mm thick stuff, in white even, it's very easy to clean but it doesn't really attract much dirt to begin with. I've got two season's riding on the tape I have now and it still looks awesome.

kingston 

For bar-ends or down-tube shifters I’d go with Rivendell Silver shifters, and for triple chainsets I’d look at Sugino, IRD, VO & Rene Herse if money is no object. Those manufacturers all have 10 speed options with a near infinite combination of chainrings. For square taper bottom brackets, I like the IRD QB-95. IRD also makes a roller bearing headset that’s worth a look.

If you want a double with brifters there’s a whole thread on 46-30 chainsets that you should check out, but you’ll have to trade low gears for narrow spacing if you use a wide cassette. Not important to some people, but I’ll take narrow spacing over low gears every day of the week. Since a triple can do both, that’s what I run on my long-distance bikes.

If you want a triple with brifters, your only new options are Tiagara or Microshift. Both perfectly adequate but pretty low on the bling factor. Of those two, I’d get Microshift because I’ve stopped buying anything Shimano since they started shutting down retail imports to the US. If you could find an old campy triple setup like a racing triple or the recently discontinued Campy Athena triple 11-speed groupset, that would be a great option for a long-distance bike IMO.

perspiration

You know since posting yesterday and actually figuring out how gearing works, I'm considering something kind of crazy.

Basically I did the whole SR series on my Cross Check last year, which was stock-geared at 48/36 up front and 11-28 in the back. I found myself definitely wishing I had a bigger gear in the back, but for the most part I never ever used the 48t ring, I just kept to the 36.

As such, I think a 1x build might actually be doable and even suitable for me, if I went for something like 36t up front and 11-32 in the back. I'm less concerned about needing a bigger granny gear and more concerned about topping out at 36-11, so maybe even a 38t / 11-32t would suit me. Curious if anyone thinks this is a stupid idea or not.

tyrion

I think you miss the high gears especially when you're going over rolling hills and want to build speed down one hill to carry you up the next hill.

unterhausen

I looked at going 1x and couldn't talk myself into it. There's no way I would be happy with a low gear that big and I didn't want to go with something like a 50 tooth cog in the back. But it does sound like it might work for you. I stick with a 2x vs. a 3x because of the relative simplicity. And the truth is that I only need the 2 chain rings. I did one year of rando with an mtb crank, 42/28 chain rings. 32 tooth in the back. That worked great. I really wish someone made a road crank like that other than at the high-end

kingston 

Sugino wide/low 40-26 or silver 38-24 could be a consideration. I'd personally rather ride a fixie than a 1x but everyone's different.

perspiration

Pulled the trigger on the frameset today. Final build is gonna look something like this:
Part
Type
Frame
Soma Fog Cutter
Fork
Soma Champs Elysees 700c Low Trail Disc Fork
Seating/Handling/Accessories
Handlebars - Soma Brevet Randonneur Bar - Ergo Bend. 44cm
Bar tape/Grips - Fizik Performance Bar Tape Black
Stem - TBD based on fit--try out a few
Saddle - Brooks Cambium C17 Carved Black
Seatpost - Silver 27.2 Setback
Pedals - Shimano M540 Black-
Fenders - Velo Orange Zeppelin Fenders 650bx52 silver
Rack - Velo Orange Randonneur Rack w/Integrated Decalleur
Bag - TBD
Dyno Light - IQ-XS (70 lux) silver

Stopping
Brake Levers - sram rival 2x11
Brake Calipers - trp spyre
Brake Rotors - Shimano XT IceTech Centerlock (2)
cables/housing - Included w/brakes

Drivetrain
Cassette - SRAM PG1130 Cassette 11 Speed 11-32 Teeth
Chain - KMC--depends on drivetrain speeds
Cranks/chainring - 26, 40 172.5 Sugino XD2
Front Derailleur - SRAM Rival 31.8mm Front Derailleur,
Rear Derailleur - SRAM Rival 1 Rear Derailleur

Bearings
Headset - IRD NeedL BlastR
Bottom Bracket - UN-55

Rolling
Rims - Recommend Pacenti Brevets--Strong, build up well, half the price and 15g lighter. 32 hole.
Front Hub - Son 28 polished silver
Rear Hub - White Industries CLD in Polished Silver 32 hole. Some of the best bearings you can get, and excellent engagement in the freehub. Can do a Sram XDR Driver for 10t small cog
Spokes - DT Swiss Competition (2.0-1.8-2.0) Double butted spokes, Brass spoke nipples. Silver. (64)
Rim Tape - Stans No-Tubes Rim tape--Even if you aren't running tubeless, this is the recommended tape.

Tires - Compass Babyshoe Pass 640bx42
Tubes/Valves - Q-Tubes 650bx35-43 (2)

kingston 

perspiration

You are correct...that one is just a placeholder in the spreadsheet for now as we try to figure out alternatives to get to a 40/26 gearing. Maybe a custom crank.

Was a bit bummed to go mechanical discs instead of hydraulic but holy ****, hydraulic shifter levers are expensive.

CliffordK

Hmmm... A couple of comments.

I thought everyone was moving to flat mount brakes. Your Soma frame requires some kind of an adapter for the brakes. I assume they're available, but it is just a bit surprising.

The handlebars you've picked out are 25.4 bars.
Almost all the 1 1/8" stems take 31.8 bars. They'll be much easier to deal with.

I've come to prefer flat-top "aero" bars, and find them comfortable for riding. I do object to the "ergo" bends, but don't really like the "compact" either. Whatever you choose, they should have a tight upper bend, but I'd prefer the rest of the shape to be a smooth curve with flats at the bottom.

unterhausen

The OP's frame has an ISO mount. AFAIK, post mount brakes still come with a post mount- ISO adapter. If not, the adapters are available in quantity at any bike shop. It's a little surprising to see an ISO mount on a production frame, but it's not a problem.

rhm

@Spoonrobot, re the two quotes below, do these suggestions reflect first hand experience with this particular fork and rack? I don't have that fork, but your experience certainly echoes mine.

On my new bike, the VO daruma bolt was too short, as you indicate. The photo below shows what happens if the daruma bolt is too short; it holds the fender up too high, and distorts the fender line. Since the photo was taken, I found a bolt similar to (but longer than) a VO daruma bolt on an old (junk) cantilever brake; the bolt that holds the brake shoe stud. Mine literally came off a dumpster bike. It wasn't this brake, but you get the idea:




I have two of the older versions of that VO rack, and both had to be modified to fit the fork. The version they're selling now appears to be much more adaptable than the ones I have.



This photo shows the modification my friend @gugie made to the second of the racks I have. He extended the legs by a couple centimeters, according to the measurements I sent him (in retrospect, I wish I'd told him to make the legs 1 cm longer, since this looks strange with the sloping top tube on this bike).