Stiff, surface rusty SunTour Perfect 5 Freewheel Rebuild
#1
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Stiff, surface rusty SunTour Perfect 5 Freewheel Rebuild
I have a Suntour 5 speed 8.8.8 Perfect FW that doesn't turn and has surface rust. I am happy to send to an interested party for the price of flat rate shipping(small box) in the CONUS which is $7.90 I think. I don't have the skills or patience for FW rebuilds but I know the Suntour Perfect gets good reviews, No guarantees it will work with a good WD40 flush but it might be good for spares.
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#3
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I’ll take it. PM coming.
#4
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I actually enjoy rebuilding these and have one last wheel set that needs a 28 on it.
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#6
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This is first phase. All apart. Did a degrease to clean off the PB Blaster and brass brush with mineral spirits to get the funk off. Only one sprocket had any caked on grease so this was barely used. Now in an overnight soak in evaporust for the rust. Duh. Bearings are toast—some are fully blackened— so have to order more of that size. This one took heat to the 14t ring off. Also took a lot to get the bearing lock ring off. Hardest I have ever worked to get one apart.
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#7
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Here is the freewheel after the evaporust bath, a water wash followed by an alcohol rinse to pull off all the water, a brass brushing and a wd40 spray down to a dry fit (no bearings, springs or pawls while I await a mail order for new bearings). The bearings really rusted out which froze it up.
Turned out brand new. Ryan, you were very kind to move it on and it will get good use! Thanks. Ozzie
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Here is the freewheel after the evaporust bath, a water wash followed by an alcohol rinse to pull off all the water, a brass brushing and a wd40 spray down to a dry fit (no bearings, springs or pawls while I await a mail order for new bearings). The bearings really rusted out which froze it up.
Turned out brand new. Ryan, you were very kind to move it on and it will get good use! Thanks. Ozzie
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^^^^^ +1; this whole thread is awesome, turned out to be much more than just another "for sale" thread.
#10
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Yes. It can be amazing what happens bringing old stuff back to life. Here’s a clearer before photo.
#12
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Good read here. And good pics. I’ve brought a few bits back to life but not a freewheel. Nice work!
#13
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Great work and restoration! Well done!
I run my parts in the toaster over at about 200F for 15-20 minutes to dry. However, I mostly use water based degreasers in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Actually, the original bearings don't look that bad. I serviced a Perfect this week for a client which had not a lick of lubrication and plenty of rust on the inside. It had really bad bearings.
All cleaned, lubed and ready to send back to the client.
I run my parts in the toaster over at about 200F for 15-20 minutes to dry. However, I mostly use water based degreasers in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Actually, the original bearings don't look that bad. I serviced a Perfect this week for a client which had not a lick of lubrication and plenty of rust on the inside. It had really bad bearings.
All cleaned, lubed and ready to send back to the client.
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Title Changed and moved to C&V from Sales, as useful rebuilding info.
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What a fantastic job you did @obuckler! Ryan's original pics made me wonder if it would ever look good or even perform yet you've managed to turn it into what looks to be a brand-new unit. I might turn my resto skills to saving old freewheels myself after seeing this thread.
DD
DD
#16
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I would only do it yourself if you like the process of the doing. I think you are by your posts, but for those not, pastorbob above has the yellow jersey for sure. He’s currently helping me with some sprockets to bring two more of mine back to service. We’re lucky to have so many like him around. It has certainly helped me do things easier and better in the C&V world.
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Here is the freewheel after the evaporust bath, a water wash followed by an alcohol rinse to pull off all the water, a brass brushing and a wd40 spray down to a dry fit (no bearings, springs or pawls while I await a mail order for new bearings). The bearings really rusted out which froze it up.
Turned out brand new. Ryan, you were very kind to move it on and it will get good use! Thanks. Ozzie
Last edited by ryansu; 10-18-19 at 09:39 PM.
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Unreal. Nicely played, gentlemen!
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I would only do it yourself if you like the process of the doing. I think you are by your posts, but for those not, pastorbob above has the yellow jersey for sure. He’s currently helping me with some sprockets to bring two more of mine back to service. We’re lucky to have so many like him around. It has certainly helped me do things easier and better in the C&V world.
These are two great examples as to why the "flush and dribble" method to service a freewheel is really only a temporary solution.
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And a shout out for all those BF members (mostly USA but literally around the World) that have helped me get/keep my vintage bikes on-th-road and a joy to ride (dozens of you). The local Puget Sound members, without exception, have been good people, even a few becoming good + regular friends. No question this site has made my life, before and after retirement, more enjoyable.
Only one example, the longest standing regular BF friend (i think):
Caveman isn't exactly Puget Sound, but close. A Belgium BF member sent me a Corsa Extra that @Lascauxcaveman now owns. It was so sweet, I had to get another for keeps.
edit: to poke a bit of fun - it's one of only a very few pics of Tim dressed in something other than kakhi shorts and collared short sleeved shirt for a ride.
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Replacement cogs for 5 speed Maeda Perfect freewheel?
My first post.
Hi, I am Bruno from the Netherlands and I'm looking for replacement cogs for one of my two 5 speed Maeda Perfect freewheels.
Still having one sleeper with hardly any wear, but the other one is getting a bit 'tired' on the 3 middle sprockets (cogs?)
My gears are 14-15-16-18-20, a real flatlander as you can see. Nowadays, the 16 is my go-to gear with 18 when headwinds are a bit stronger.
In that case, after the turning point and wind at the back, I usually shift to 15.
I'm particularly curious to know, whether the middle 16 is a splined cog or a screw-on. And of course if still available or possibly, good replicas.
Same question for 15 and 18.
My bike is a Gazelle Champion Mondial from 1975, built up with a wild mix of what was available at that time.
I stopped using that bike regularly in the mid eighties and altogether in the early nineties, due to a knee injury that wouldn't go away when racing bikes.
By the end of last March I had no opportunities for keeping in shape anymore (all Icerinks had closed due to covid) so I reluctantly tried my first tour of 25 km and... nothing happened. Encouraged, I've been on the bike since, the weather allowing (no rain or high winds) and now I've logged just over 1500 km.
But now concerns over the wear and tear on the drive train are emerging.
Tried to upload a picture, but that will have to wait until I have 10 posts...
Hi, I am Bruno from the Netherlands and I'm looking for replacement cogs for one of my two 5 speed Maeda Perfect freewheels.
Still having one sleeper with hardly any wear, but the other one is getting a bit 'tired' on the 3 middle sprockets (cogs?)
My gears are 14-15-16-18-20, a real flatlander as you can see. Nowadays, the 16 is my go-to gear with 18 when headwinds are a bit stronger.
In that case, after the turning point and wind at the back, I usually shift to 15.
I'm particularly curious to know, whether the middle 16 is a splined cog or a screw-on. And of course if still available or possibly, good replicas.
Same question for 15 and 18.
My bike is a Gazelle Champion Mondial from 1975, built up with a wild mix of what was available at that time.
I stopped using that bike regularly in the mid eighties and altogether in the early nineties, due to a knee injury that wouldn't go away when racing bikes.
By the end of last March I had no opportunities for keeping in shape anymore (all Icerinks had closed due to covid) so I reluctantly tried my first tour of 25 km and... nothing happened. Encouraged, I've been on the bike since, the weather allowing (no rain or high winds) and now I've logged just over 1500 km.
But now concerns over the wear and tear on the drive train are emerging.
Tried to upload a picture, but that will have to wait until I have 10 posts...
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