Bike upgrade time?
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Bike upgrade time?
Hello everyone. I’m hoping for some advise.
Over the winter I took some spinning classes. I had so much fun with it that when spring came I decided to dust off my Trek Navigator hybrid and start riding. I’m having a blast!
All of my riding is on road. I’m 57 years old. I ride average 3 times per week, 15-20 miles per ride, 13ish MPH. Now I’m thinking of ditching the hybrid and upgrade to a flat bar road bike but I’m unsure of the level/price of bike that I should move into. I’m looking at something like the Trek Sport 4 vs Trek FX 3Disc, and the Fuji Absolute 1.1 vs Absolue 1.3. I want a bike that I can use and grow with, but I don’t know if the more expensive/better bike is overkill for me.
I’ve yet to visit a LBS to discuss. Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated.
Over the winter I took some spinning classes. I had so much fun with it that when spring came I decided to dust off my Trek Navigator hybrid and start riding. I’m having a blast!
All of my riding is on road. I’m 57 years old. I ride average 3 times per week, 15-20 miles per ride, 13ish MPH. Now I’m thinking of ditching the hybrid and upgrade to a flat bar road bike but I’m unsure of the level/price of bike that I should move into. I’m looking at something like the Trek Sport 4 vs Trek FX 3Disc, and the Fuji Absolute 1.1 vs Absolue 1.3. I want a bike that I can use and grow with, but I don’t know if the more expensive/better bike is overkill for me.
I’ve yet to visit a LBS to discuss. Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated.
#2
WALSTIB
Just do it. Your doing great. Can't give you advice on what bike tho. To me like trying to pick an ice cream flavor.
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The Trek that I have now is about 12 years old and is a hybrid that leans towards mountain riding. It has larger tires. I guess I want something that is designed for roads without the curled handlebars. I also think the idea of something new, with more modern components is something that I like.
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Just looking at the Trek's, if you can spring for the FX4, I'd do that for the Tiagra vs. Alivio.
Somewhere inbetween those would be eg. Cannondale QuickDisc 3 with Sora
https://www.rei.com/product/145844/c...sc-3-bike-2019
But, basically all the major brands seem to have a Tiagra level and something lower (Sora, Alivio, Claris) model, so as you alluded -- time to visit a couple bike shops to see what they have.
Somewhere inbetween those would be eg. Cannondale QuickDisc 3 with Sora
https://www.rei.com/product/145844/c...sc-3-bike-2019
But, basically all the major brands seem to have a Tiagra level and something lower (Sora, Alivio, Claris) model, so as you alluded -- time to visit a couple bike shops to see what they have.
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I think your enthusiasm argues for a new bike. It will make riding even more enjoyable. Bar choice is yours, of course, but a road bike's drop bars will offer different hand positions. On longer rides you might find that helpful. I couldn't ride for long with only one hand position.
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I just bought a new bike four days ago. While I didn't end up with the FX4, it was on my list specifically because it was specced like a road bike but had flat bars. I'd certainly consider it over the FX3.
On my test ride, I quite liked it. The price was somewhat high, but it's not in the crazy level. Further, from what you've written I can't see a more expensive bike adding much value.
The only reason I didn't get it was because I wanted drop bars.
On my test ride, I quite liked it. The price was somewhat high, but it's not in the crazy level. Further, from what you've written I can't see a more expensive bike adding much value.
The only reason I didn't get it was because I wanted drop bars.
Last edited by guachi; 05-17-19 at 11:57 AM.
#8
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I'm 55. My first road bike when I started riding seriously about 10 years ago was a Schwinn. It was inexpensive a tad heavy and had a 3x8 drivetrain. I rode at least 15,000 miles on it before upgrading to a Giant TCR which was light and had good components. It was my present for breaking under 200#. I've probably got 10,000+ on it. Both of these were drop bar bikes.
Most of my rides start with a minimum of 20 miles and unless there is a lot of climbing anything under an 18 mph average is considered sub par. I live in N.E. Tennessee so many of my loops start with at least 1500 feet of climbing.
Go to local bike shops and test ride some bikes.
You might be keen on a flat bar bike but trust me, don't be afraid to try regular road bikes with drop bars. IMHO, they will have better group sets on them.
Don't fall in love with the first one that you like. Try several models from different shops.
If you really get into riding, start getting stronger and start putting in better averages, you will want a drop bar bike.
Most of my rides start with a minimum of 20 miles and unless there is a lot of climbing anything under an 18 mph average is considered sub par. I live in N.E. Tennessee so many of my loops start with at least 1500 feet of climbing.
Go to local bike shops and test ride some bikes.
You might be keen on a flat bar bike but trust me, don't be afraid to try regular road bikes with drop bars. IMHO, they will have better group sets on them.
Don't fall in love with the first one that you like. Try several models from different shops.
If you really get into riding, start getting stronger and start putting in better averages, you will want a drop bar bike.
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Find yourself a good LBS with a variety of bikes. Take a bunch of long-ish test rides (3-5 miles). Buy the one you like.
So much depends on your condition, your flexibility, what you're used to, how each bike fits you, and (pace car salesmen) even how you like the color, that nobody on the interwebs can buy you the best bike except by random chance. The best bike is the one that you like to ride, period. The second best bike, if you don't like to ride it, may turn into the worst bike because it takes up space in your garage. That means, ultimately, you've got to go pick it.
So much depends on your condition, your flexibility, what you're used to, how each bike fits you, and (pace car salesmen) even how you like the color, that nobody on the interwebs can buy you the best bike except by random chance. The best bike is the one that you like to ride, period. The second best bike, if you don't like to ride it, may turn into the worst bike because it takes up space in your garage. That means, ultimately, you've got to go pick it.
#10
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Just a thought.
If you are having a blast now on your Trek Navigator hybrid, Which looks to me more like a comfort bike with a tall seating position and fat tires, Like my Giant Sedona, Why do you want to upgrade. I upgraded my 32 year old Supercycle 12 speed mountian bike to the Sedona X-Trail bike last year because the old bike was a pain to ride. Not because it was old and lightly rusty. I should have done it 30 years ago.
I like the upright seating and the same 26 x 1.95" tires it looks like your Trek has. Since I ride for primarily for Pleasure with some fitness thrown in, Comfort is a high priority, and these bikes seem to be very good at that. At least for casual riders. Even if I was concerned about speed, My speed is limited more by frequent stops, Bad roads and Paths, and by pedestrians more then bike limitations. And the extra effort required to obtain the same speed makes them ideal for the fitness aspect.
That said I too am curious as to the difference a more road oriented bike would make. But for me, it must still be capable on gravel shoulders and light trails I might want to ride when I'm not on my Sedona. So a 38 mm width tire is the minimum I would go.
Since I'm more then satisfied with my Giant Sedona, I would consider this Giant Roam 3 to compliment my Sedona, as well as checking out other bikes.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/roam-3
And for those worried that wide tires slow you down, Consider the rolling resistance tests you can google, There are plenty of low rolling resistance tires out there 2" wide that do better then some narrow road tires. Even some BIG mountain bike tires best cheap narrow road tires. Tread, Casing and Compound are WAY more important to rolling resistance then I, and most other folks might have thought, at least on pavement.
Wind resistance is by far the largest impediment to fast cruising. Which is why road bikes have a tucked riding position vs a neutral or upright one.
If you are having a blast now on your Trek Navigator hybrid, Which looks to me more like a comfort bike with a tall seating position and fat tires, Like my Giant Sedona, Why do you want to upgrade. I upgraded my 32 year old Supercycle 12 speed mountian bike to the Sedona X-Trail bike last year because the old bike was a pain to ride. Not because it was old and lightly rusty. I should have done it 30 years ago.
I like the upright seating and the same 26 x 1.95" tires it looks like your Trek has. Since I ride for primarily for Pleasure with some fitness thrown in, Comfort is a high priority, and these bikes seem to be very good at that. At least for casual riders. Even if I was concerned about speed, My speed is limited more by frequent stops, Bad roads and Paths, and by pedestrians more then bike limitations. And the extra effort required to obtain the same speed makes them ideal for the fitness aspect.
That said I too am curious as to the difference a more road oriented bike would make. But for me, it must still be capable on gravel shoulders and light trails I might want to ride when I'm not on my Sedona. So a 38 mm width tire is the minimum I would go.
Since I'm more then satisfied with my Giant Sedona, I would consider this Giant Roam 3 to compliment my Sedona, as well as checking out other bikes.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/roam-3
And for those worried that wide tires slow you down, Consider the rolling resistance tests you can google, There are plenty of low rolling resistance tires out there 2" wide that do better then some narrow road tires. Even some BIG mountain bike tires best cheap narrow road tires. Tread, Casing and Compound are WAY more important to rolling resistance then I, and most other folks might have thought, at least on pavement.
Wind resistance is by far the largest impediment to fast cruising. Which is why road bikes have a tucked riding position vs a neutral or upright one.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 05-17-19 at 06:08 PM.
#11
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I vote for some test rides, ride them around work the shifters and see if you think the differences are worth the price.
You're going to love ditching the comfort bike for something a bit easier to ride faster. I made the same transition a couple years ago after I found myself having ridden a couple of solo centuries on the comfort bike. I realized at that point I was having too much fun to want to stick to the trailer puller.
You're going to love ditching the comfort bike for something a bit easier to ride faster. I made the same transition a couple years ago after I found myself having ridden a couple of solo centuries on the comfort bike. I realized at that point I was having too much fun to want to stick to the trailer puller.
#12
Banned
I’ve yet to visit a LBS to discuss.
Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated.
I like Ergon grips better than round ones , mudguards better than wheel spray ..
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The Trek that I have now is about 12 years old and is a hybrid that leans towards mountain riding. It has larger tires. I guess I want something that is designed for roads without the curled handlebars. I also think the idea of something new, with more modern components is something that I like.
"curled" handlebars allow for many different hand positions, which I find reduces numbness & discomfort I sometimes get with my flat bar bike.
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#14
Senior Member
Bike Upgrade Time?
Always. (Is that even a question?)
Always. (Is that even a question?)
#15
Senior Member
Definitely don't overlook drop bars. I just went on my first long ride with my new-to-me Giant Defy and found that it was far more comfortable than the flat bars on my Giant Escape. Being able to keep my hands on the hoods really improves wrist comfort, something I struggled with on the flat bars.
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As others have suggested, give drop bars a try. Borrow a bike for a few weeks if possible, because the posture may take some getting used to.
The other option for long distance comfort is a swept bar. I've owned drop-bar bikes, but could never make them comfortable due to lack of flexibility. That's just me, everybody's different. Swept bars provide just enough wrist rotation, and I can ride them for hours with no discomfort. I don't need multiple positions. I need just one comfortable position.
The industry is very much locked into bike categories and designs based on aesthetics rather than fit and comfort. Almost every drop bar bike I've seen is way too low to be comfortable for the person riding it. One exception is a bike bought from a shop that left the steering tubes uncut and made the final adjustment with spacers for each customer. I get it, that a super aggressive posture looks cool, but most riders end up hating it, especially as we get older (I'm 55).
Likewise, I've never seen a swept bar on a "sporty" bike, because the industry only puts them on "city" bikes. All of my bikes have swept bars and a moderate posture -- hand grips level with the saddle -- but I had to convert them myself with aftermarket bars.
The benefit of buying a new bike is that you can take your good old time with choosing one that really works for you.
The other option for long distance comfort is a swept bar. I've owned drop-bar bikes, but could never make them comfortable due to lack of flexibility. That's just me, everybody's different. Swept bars provide just enough wrist rotation, and I can ride them for hours with no discomfort. I don't need multiple positions. I need just one comfortable position.
The industry is very much locked into bike categories and designs based on aesthetics rather than fit and comfort. Almost every drop bar bike I've seen is way too low to be comfortable for the person riding it. One exception is a bike bought from a shop that left the steering tubes uncut and made the final adjustment with spacers for each customer. I get it, that a super aggressive posture looks cool, but most riders end up hating it, especially as we get older (I'm 55).
Likewise, I've never seen a swept bar on a "sporty" bike, because the industry only puts them on "city" bikes. All of my bikes have swept bars and a moderate posture -- hand grips level with the saddle -- but I had to convert them myself with aftermarket bars.
The benefit of buying a new bike is that you can take your good old time with choosing one that really works for you.
#17
Senior Member
Hello everyone. I’m hoping for some advise.
Over the winter I took some spinning classes. I had so much fun with it that when spring came I decided to dust off my Trek Navigator hybrid and start riding. I’m having a blast!
All of my riding is on road. I’m 57 years old. I ride average 3 times per week, 15-20 miles per ride, 13ish MPH. Now I’m thinking of ditching the hybrid and upgrade to a flat bar road bike but I’m unsure of the level/price of bike that I should move into. I’m looking at something like the Trek Sport 4 vs Trek FX 3Disc, and the Fuji Absolute 1.1 vs Absolue 1.3. I want a bike that I can use and grow with, but I don’t know if the more expensive/better bike is overkill for me.
I’ve yet to visit a LBS to discuss. Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated.
Over the winter I took some spinning classes. I had so much fun with it that when spring came I decided to dust off my Trek Navigator hybrid and start riding. I’m having a blast!
All of my riding is on road. I’m 57 years old. I ride average 3 times per week, 15-20 miles per ride, 13ish MPH. Now I’m thinking of ditching the hybrid and upgrade to a flat bar road bike but I’m unsure of the level/price of bike that I should move into. I’m looking at something like the Trek Sport 4 vs Trek FX 3Disc, and the Fuji Absolute 1.1 vs Absolue 1.3. I want a bike that I can use and grow with, but I don’t know if the more expensive/better bike is overkill for me.
I’ve yet to visit a LBS to discuss. Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated.
#18
Full Member
After finding the local bike store didn't have what I wanted. I started looking on the internet. This was 2017 and I found a giant ATX lite. Found a local bike shop that would order it, swap the bars with some Jone bars and I love My bike. If I'd have just bought what they had from the bike store, I would have had front suspension and other things I didn't want
.
.
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I looked at the Fuji website for specs. Couldn't be bothered to look at the other bikes you mentioned.
If it were me, I would get the more expensive Absolute 1.1. The price difference is only ~240$, and you get better shifters and derailleurs and much better crank and bottom bracket.
If cost is an object, both bikes would be great, and when new they will ride identically. Just expect longer life out of the moving parts of the 1.1
However, the main factor you should consider is the fit of the bike - both how it fits your body dimensions (is comfortable to ride) and how is fits where and how you wish to ride. As others have said, there are other styles of bikes out there that are popular for road riding, but what you want and how comfortable you are is more important than anything else.
If it were me, I would get the more expensive Absolute 1.1. The price difference is only ~240$, and you get better shifters and derailleurs and much better crank and bottom bracket.
If cost is an object, both bikes would be great, and when new they will ride identically. Just expect longer life out of the moving parts of the 1.1
However, the main factor you should consider is the fit of the bike - both how it fits your body dimensions (is comfortable to ride) and how is fits where and how you wish to ride. As others have said, there are other styles of bikes out there that are popular for road riding, but what you want and how comfortable you are is more important than anything else.
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N+1.
#21
Senior Member
My wife had similar needs as you. She got a Giant Escape and we put Ergon grips with bar ends on them. Gave her multiple had positions. She liked the more upright position and she was still plenty fast (just did an average of 16.1 mph on Monday). She loves it, but after about 5,000 miles on it she is ready to upgrade and just bought a slightly used 2018 Trek Domane SL5. She will be riding her Giant this weekend for an event though. Not enough saddle time on the new bike yet for that. Don't overlook changing out the grips though.
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I can’t thank everyone enough for your comments. You gave me a lot of good advise and a lot to think about. I’ve decided to transition to an entry level road bike - originally thinking flat bar but the road bike with drop bars makes more sense. I finally rode one and like it! I’m currently thinking of the Trek Domane AL 3 and Fuji Sportif 2.1.
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I can’t thank everyone enough for your comments. You gave me a lot of good advise and a lot to think about. I’ve decided to transition to an entry level road bike - originally thinking flat bar but the road bike with drop bars makes more sense. I finally rode one and like it! I’m currently thinking of the Trek Domane AL 3 and Fuji Sportif 2.1.
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Bikes are such, that you need more than one. I am happier having my old Mountain Bike/City bomber, and my C&V non indexed road bike. Both do something the other does not. Both are equally enjoyed in different ways. 1 bike limits you. Options are good.
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