Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

Good Chain Lube??? Mines WD40. :P

Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

Good Chain Lube??? Mines WD40. :P

Old 04-15-19, 08:50 AM
  #51  
u235
Senior Member
 
u235's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,185
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 437 Post(s)
Liked 133 Times in 86 Posts
Originally Posted by Shimagnolo
But the downside is you will have every neighborhood dog & cat following you.
I've used a small tube of antibiotic cream before I had with me in my kit, Neosporin? It worked in a pinch on a long day in the middle of no where. That is the day I stopped using anything labeled as a dry lube or mixed conditions lube. It was a very popular liquid dry/mixed lube (already mentioned in this thread) but it couldn't last more than 20 miles with some water and some grit thrown in. I switched to wet lubes that have some type of petroleum in it, I'll take the chain ring leg tattoos and I am perfectly happy with my average chain life. It's funny how something so popular and people swear by it and my experience was the exact opposite. That is why I tend to not get involved in someones personal choice. There are too many factors that may not be the same. If what you have works for you, keep using it!!

Last edited by u235; 04-15-19 at 08:56 AM.
u235 is offline  
Old 04-15-19, 09:22 AM
  #52  
Moe Zhoost
Half way there
 
Moe Zhoost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,955

Bikes: Many, and the list changes frequently

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 985 Post(s)
Liked 879 Times in 526 Posts
Originally Posted by base2
Seriously OP, "The chain lube thread" lives in infamy here.
Here's one: Chain lube thread

The gist of it is:
Dry lube for dry/dusty summer conditions.
Wet lube for wet/rainy winter conditions.

Some will post a chart on the various chain longevity of various kinds of lube. It'll look like this:

aJ5IyhV7.jpeg by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr

Tri-flo, WD-40 come out mid-grade at best & others came out worst, Phil's & Chain-L came out best.

I tried WD-40, used it regularly and my chains lasted 1500 miles. Half of what is expected. I switched to Chain-L and am getting 5000+ miles per, with regular 1000 mile cleanings. I don't know how long it actually lasts. I have yet to have one wear out. The trick is wiping enough off that grime doesn't accumulate.

When the Chain-L is runs out, I'm just going to buy bar-oil from the home improvement store. It's the same thing.
I've been using Chain-L for the past few years, having been a wax proponent before that. Chain-L is a thick, sticky oil that takes a while to get sucked into the chain. I apply it and wait overnight then wipe all the excess from the outside. I wipe the chain daily for a few days to ensure that the exposed parts of the chain stay clean. Wiping keeps the outside nicely clean while the chain innards retain the lube. Without wiping, the thick sticky oil grabs and hangs onto a lot of gunk. When I used wax, I had to rewax at least once a month to keep the chain quiet. Riding in the rain was a certain trigger to rewax. With Chain-L, I lube when the drivetrain loses its eerie silence - perhaps every thousand miles. Rain doesn't seem to bother it much either. About bar-oil: When filling up my chain saw a few weeks ago, I noticed that the bar oil seemed the same as Chain-L in that it was thick and sticky; however it did not have the MoS2 odor of Chain-L. I certainly think bar-oil would do well and I may try it once my small bottle of Chain-L is depleted (which doesn't appear to be in the near future - a small bottle lasts forever).

To the OP: I have used regular WD40 for chain lube a few times. It works ok but doesn't last long before the chain starts to complain again. The bigger issue is that a spray gets all over other stuff despite whatever precautions you make.
Moe Zhoost is offline  
Old 04-15-19, 12:46 PM
  #53  
bogydave
Senior Member
 
bogydave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: ALASKA , SoCal
Posts: 914

Bikes: /Skye/ Torker mt, Sirrus flat bar

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 188 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times in 10 Posts
I want the best of it all:
1st I use chain saw bar lube
then WD 40 wet
,next, WD40 dry,
then triflow
Last
wipe dry with rag sprayed with brake clean
bogydave is offline  
Old 04-15-19, 01:55 PM
  #54  
Phil_gretz
Zip tie Karen
 
Phil_gretz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,006

Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times in 806 Posts
Several unrelated thoughts...

that might benefit this thread:

- When I started maintaining my bike in the early 1970s, I used spray silicon on my chain (carefully) regularly, and it kept it both quiet and relatively clean.

- Spewed Smoothie would be a great name for a rock band.

- I've brewed up my own chain lubes for the last decade, and I can't decide if they work better or worse than some of the good commercial lubricants

- Agree with the firearm lubricant discussions above, and it is related. There is carbon grit and fouling, and things run better wet. Regular cleaning is better than not, but regular lubrication is equally good, for the most part.
Phil_gretz is offline  
Old 04-15-19, 03:13 PM
  #55  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,251

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6133 Post(s)
Liked 4,067 Times in 2,310 Posts
Originally Posted by bogydave
I want the best of it all:
1st I use chain saw bar lube
then WD 40 wet
,next, WD40 dry,
then triflow
Last
wipe dry with rag sprayed with brake clean
What no chicken bones and incantations? Why do people insist on these elaborate rituals for cleaning and/or lubricating a chain? Your method is analogous to a belt, suspenders, duct tape, staples and surgical sutures.

It's a chain! It will wear out. It will last around 3000 miles no matter what you do to it. Why spend all that time, effort and lubricant? Pick one and be done with it.

And, if you haven't gotten it yet, the chain saw oil will be washed off by the WD40 wet which will be washed off by the WD40 dry which will be washed off by the Triflow. Kind of reminds me of a story about an old lady and a fly.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 04-15-19, 04:23 PM
  #56  
bogydave
Senior Member
 
bogydave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: ALASKA , SoCal
Posts: 914

Bikes: /Skye/ Torker mt, Sirrus flat bar

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 188 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times in 10 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
What no chicken bones and incantations? Why do people insist on these elaborate rituals for cleaning and/or lubricating a chain? Your method is analogous to a belt, suspenders, duct tape, staples and surgical sutures.

It's a chain! It will wear out. It will last around 3000 miles no matter what you do to it. Why spend all that time, effort and lubricant? Pick one and be done with it.

And, if you haven't gotten it yet, the chain saw oil will be washed off by the WD40 wet which will be washed off by the WD40 dry which will be washed off by the Triflow. Kind of reminds me of a story about an old lady and a fly.
You mean this won’t work?
Of course there’s an incantation to to cycling gods
as you hop around the bike counterclockwise
3 times on your left foot.
+marrow from bones of moose
...
my belt has came in useful a few times
...
Now badmouthing my use of duct tape & suspenders
is getting personal
....
hmmm:
never thought of staples,
how to use them?
...
My brooks saddle has some lacing, suture like I guess.

My grandkids know about the old lady who swallowed a fly, spider, bird etc....
bogydave is offline  
Old 04-15-19, 04:53 PM
  #57  
livedarklions
Tragically Ignorant
 
livedarklions's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: New England
Posts: 15,613

Bikes: Serotta Atlanta; 1994 Specialized Allez Pro; Giant OCR A1; SOMA Double Cross Disc; 2022 Allez Elite mit der SRAM

Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8186 Post(s)
Liked 9,094 Times in 5,053 Posts
Three parts extra virgin olive oil and one part wine vinegar. Don't wipe dry, lick. It tastes good and the saliva adds viscosity.
livedarklions is offline  
Old 04-15-19, 05:09 PM
  #58  
FiftySix
I'm the anecdote.
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: S.E. Texas
Posts: 1,823

Bikes: '12 Schwinn, '13 Norco

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1110 Post(s)
Liked 1,176 Times in 795 Posts
Originally Posted by livedarklions
Three parts extra virgin olive oil and one part wine vinegar. Don't wipe dry, lick. It tastes good and the saliva adds viscosity.
Lolol. I am NOT licking a bike chain or any other kind of chain.
FiftySix is offline  
Old 04-16-19, 03:57 AM
  #59  
Rodon
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bluffton SC
Posts: 6

Bikes: Motobecane x2: Fly 29er and Mulekick

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not to hijack the thread, but will any of the proposed solutions stain or otherwise harm my new titanium frame? I was hoping to keep it forever. BTW what’s the best bike cleaner/wax? thanks
Rodon is offline  
Old 04-16-19, 05:33 AM
  #60  
Phil_gretz
Zip tie Karen
 
Phil_gretz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,006

Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times in 806 Posts
Originally Posted by Rodon
... will any of the proposed solutions stain or otherwise harm my new titanium frame?
I'm not a metallurgist, but I've read that titanium can be stained by exposure to acids, even skin acids. I had titanium hardware in my back for a year, and it came out looking pretty new. Not sure that is relevant, though.

Originally Posted by Rodon
... I was hoping to keep it forever.
And be buried with it, like the Egyptians?
Phil_gretz is offline  
Old 04-16-19, 07:14 AM
  #61  
texaspandj
Senior Member
 
texaspandj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Heart Of Texas
Posts: 4,236

Bikes: '85, '86 , '87 , '88 , '89 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman.

Mentioned: 99 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1603 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times in 379 Posts
Suppose only people who actually used the specified chain lubricant were allowed to comment on it, this thread would only have 3 or 4 comments and only one pro WD40....Me!
texaspandj is offline  
Old 04-16-19, 08:58 AM
  #62  
Riveting
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO
Posts: 1,221

Bikes: '13 Diamondback Hybrid Commuter, '17 Spec Roubaix Di2, '17 Spec Camber 29'er, '19 CDale Topstone Gravel

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 590 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times in 260 Posts
As a kid on a BMX in the 80's, I sometimes used the only "lube" I could find in the house, vegetable oil.
Riveting is offline  
Old 04-16-19, 09:12 AM
  #63  
Garfield Cat
Senior Member
 
Garfield Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 7,072

Bikes: Cervelo Prodigy

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 86 Times in 66 Posts
Originally Posted by allout1
Haha, I use WD40. I was looking at Finish Line's Dry stuff. Not sure though. What's good and price conscious?
Price conscious: the one that was a gift to you. Like an entire gallon of Boeshield T-9. If that suits you.
Garfield Cat is offline  
Old 04-16-19, 12:06 PM
  #64  
Dirt Farmer
Senior Member
 
Dirt Farmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Madison, Wi.
Posts: 1,181

Bikes: Jamis Quest Elite; Fuji Sagres; Trek Fuel EX 8

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 329 Post(s)
Liked 73 Times in 53 Posts
I just bought a brand new Bontrager carbon seatpost, and figured since I was in the Trek store, I'd buy some Bontrager chain lube. It's still so brand new, you cannot even find it mentioned on Google.

Will report back on its effectiveness in a few months.
Dirt Farmer is offline  
Old 04-16-19, 10:35 PM
  #65  
Wattsup
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 683
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 376 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by Rodon
Not to hijack the thread, but will any of the proposed solutions stain or otherwise harm my new titanium frame? I was hoping to keep it forever. BTW what’s the best bike cleaner/wax? thanks
Titanium? You need to baby titanium. I recommend the following homemade biodegradable lube for titanium bicycles:


1. Completely strip chain with mineral spirits. Allow to dry overnight.

2. Set chain in a medium-sized skillet. Brush on extra-virgin olive oil. Yes, olive oil.

3. Heat on low, 3 minutes, being sure not to allow oil to smoke. The goal here is to simply warm the chain and oil. Remove from heat.

4. Promptly sprinkle a *very* light coating of powdered sugar on your chain....less is better. Heat again on medium/high for 1 minute or until light brown sheen appears on chain. This is the caramelization phase.

5. Remove from heat, allow to cool, reinstall chain.

6. Enjoy an all-natural, food grade, "dry" lube that won't collect dirt and that is very water resistant, and titanium-safe!
Wattsup is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 05:52 AM
  #66  
Phil_gretz
Zip tie Karen
 
Phil_gretz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,006

Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times in 806 Posts
^now, that's a chain I would lick.
Phil_gretz is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 06:00 AM
  #67  
indyfabz
Senior Member
 
indyfabz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 38,963
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18269 Post(s)
Liked 15,185 Times in 7,172 Posts
Originally Posted by Rodon
Not to hijack the thread, but will any of the proposed solutions stain or otherwise harm my new titanium frame? I was hoping to keep it forever. BTW what’s the best bike cleaner/wax? thanks
I have a custom ti frame from an artisanal builder who twice won best MTB at NAHBS. He recommends Pledge for sprucing up the frame.
indyfabz is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 06:02 AM
  #68  
Lemond1985
Sophomore Member
 
Lemond1985's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 2,690
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1628 Post(s)
Liked 1,057 Times in 631 Posts
Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
^now, that's a chain I would lick.
"Finger-licking good". Solves the problem of having dirty hands after every time you touch the chain. Those hands won't stay dirty long, especially if you forgot to bring food on that long ride.
Lemond1985 is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 07:20 AM
  #69  
burnthesheep
Newbie racer
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3,406

Bikes: Propel, red is faster

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1575 Post(s)
Liked 1,566 Times in 973 Posts
I drank the Kool Aid, and it tastes good.

I got sick and tired of chain lube muck and cleanup. Dry lube wasn't too bad, but inevitably needing wet for a rainy or messy rides meant it would wind up on clothes, a Cat 5 racer chainring mark on your calf, and all over. Hard to clean, etc... How's it wind up on clothes? Get a mechanical in the woods on a gravel ride and if you have to touch the chain, RD, or anything there......it's on you like a tiger on a steak.

I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and cheapo mini crock and now wax. Never going back. Ever.

The extra time up front is well worth the nasty mess and cleanup you incur later with normal chain lubes.

Plus, you can buy a spare chain and have it ready to go for every 300 miles.

Again, anyone who puts more than 1000mi per bike owned per year should consider it.

1. For a used chain, run through a Park chain cleaner with degreaser first. For new chain, soak in gasoline to get factory shipping grease off.
2. Ultrasonic clean with hot water/degreaser mix
3. Dump, fill with hot water only.
4. Blow dry. Hair dryer, leaf blower is better.
5. Have your crock heating up during 1 through 4. Then dunk em in, swirl a while, lift and hang to cool.
6. After it's cool, break the wax stiffness for all the links by hand. Thread the chain on, then spin up for a couple minutes outdoors. This will fling off some wax, so don't do it indoors.
7. Enjoy a drive train so clean you could eat off it even 300 miles later.

I thought it was only some elite racer bull crap. Nope. It's the way to go.
burnthesheep is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 07:53 AM
  #70  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,251

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6133 Post(s)
Liked 4,067 Times in 2,310 Posts
Originally Posted by burnthesheep
I drank the Kool Aid, and it tastes good.

I got sick and tired of chain lube muck and cleanup. Dry lube wasn't too bad, but inevitably needing wet for a rainy or messy rides meant it would wind up on clothes, a Cat 5 racer chainring mark on your calf, and all over. Hard to clean, etc... How's it wind up on clothes? Get a mechanical in the woods on a gravel ride and if you have to touch the chain, RD, or anything there......it's on you like a tiger on a steak.

I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and cheapo mini crock and now wax. Never going back. Ever.

The extra time up front is well worth the nasty mess and cleanup you incur later with normal chain lubes.

Plus, you can buy a spare chain and have it ready to go for every 300 miles.

Again, anyone who puts more than 1000mi per bike owned per year should consider it.

1. For a used chain, run through a Park chain cleaner with degreaser first. For new chain, soak in gasoline to get factory shipping grease off.
2. Ultrasonic clean with hot water/degreaser mix
3. Dump, fill with hot water only.
4. Blow dry. Hair dryer, leaf blower is better.
5. Have your crock heating up during 1 through 4. Then dunk em in, swirl a while, lift and hang to cool.
6. After it's cool, break the wax stiffness for all the links by hand. Thread the chain on, then spin up for a couple minutes outdoors. This will fling off some wax, so don't do it indoors.
7. Enjoy a drive train so clean you could eat off it even 300 miles later.

I thought it was only some elite racer bull crap. Nope. It's the way to go.
First, DON'T USE GASOLINE!

Gasoline is hazardous to your health and incredibly flammable. It will vaporize at just about any temperature you want to use it at (flash point -40°F) and that vapor will spread rapidly an invisibly.

There are other solvents which are far less flammable and far less toxic. Mineral spirits is just as effect but has a flash point in the 70° F to 130°F range depending on the grade. Odorless mineral spirits is in the 130°F range. You should still take precautions like using it in a well ventilated area and using personal protection equipment but you don't have to be as vigilant.

Second, this is a prime example of overcomplicating what should be a fairly simple procedure. Why do an organic solvent cleaning (DON'T USE GASOLINE!) and follow it up with a water based degreaser and follow it up with a water rinse? The organic solvent (DON'T USE GASOLINE!) will do everything the water based degreaser does without the need to remove the degreaser and then remove the water. The wax won't be hurt by any residual factory lubricant and will just act as a solvent.

Your procedure is also rather involved for something that needs to be done every 300 miles or so. Depending on how much you ride, that could be something that is done as often as weekly. Most people have better things to do.

Compare your elaborate procedure to what I do. I strip the chain of factory lubricant when I install it with mineral spirits (DON'T USE GASOLINE!). 30 seconds of swishing it around in a cup (or less) is all it takes. I take it out and let it dry. I install it and use a wax based lubricant. I add wax based lubricant as needed and never remove the chain until it is replaced. The interval I get between lubrication is 600 to 700 miles unless it rains but I'm not concerned with that too much. I've used this method while on tours all over the US without any issues whatsoever. It's simple, effective and efficient. And my drivetrain is every bit as clean as yours. I just spend less time on keep it that way.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 07:57 AM
  #71  
Dr.Lou
Senior Member
 
Dr.Lou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 255
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times in 61 Posts
I’ve used just about every commercial chain lube, usually whatever’s on sale, but prefer Boshield.
Dr.Lou is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 08:32 AM
  #72  
Pilot321
Junior Member
 
Pilot321's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: S.E. PA
Posts: 157

Bikes: 1987 Cannondale SR500

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 61 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Dr.Lou
I’ve used just about every commercial chain lube, usually whatever’s on sale, but prefer Boshield.
I use Boshield T-9 on all other lube points EXCEPT for the chain in which I use Tri-Flow. Don't you find Boeshield too "thin"? I know it leaves a waxy film after it dries. Is that enough lube? What do you guys think of using WD-40 as a chain cleaner, then using another product for lube? Is WD-40 enough of a degreaser? Is there a better spray on chain cleaner. The reason I ask is I have WD-40 on hand, as most do, so will give it a try.
Pilot321 is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 08:33 AM
  #73  
burnthesheep
Newbie racer
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3,406

Bikes: Propel, red is faster

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1575 Post(s)
Liked 1,566 Times in 973 Posts
I'm open to not using the gas for the stripping.

I do time trail. Things need to be perfect. I also have a spare chain for all 3 bikes. So, it's literally 30 seconds to swap chains. If I'm doing the crazy work for the TT bike chain only, it's only like a minute or two extra work while I'm doing it to give the others the same treatment. All three chains fit in the ultrasonic cleaner.

So, really, it's only once every 600 to maybe 800 miles I have to do anything. Not every 300. 300 to 400 times two is 600 to 800. And.......that's per bike. I have the miles split between the TT bike, road race bike, and multi use cyclocross bike. So, if the miles are assumed equal...........multiply the time interval again by 3 because it's spread among 3 bikes.

Given my yearly mileage, that's going to be probably doing this procedure a few times. Like three at most. 3 cleanings/waxes x 800 = 2400 x 3 bikes = 7200 miles riding on only doing this 3 times per year.

Adding dry tube o lube on top of dry tube o lube is just adding lube/wax on top of contamination. It's probably perfectly fine for what you use it for, but internal contamination is what wears out the parts in a chain faster. It doesn't stretch, the rollers and moving parts literally wear so there are more clearances that stack up over the length of the chain to make it longer. The plates don't stretch, nothing stretches.

Just my opinion, but I'd guess chains would last longer the less contamination that gets routinely left in the thing.

So, my cost incurred of owning 3 spare chains could eventually be offset by them each lasting longer.
burnthesheep is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 09:23 AM
  #74  
WizardOfBoz
Generally bewildered
 
WizardOfBoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,036

Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 340 Times in 250 Posts
Originally Posted by LesG
The rationale (my understanding of it anyway) for using the transmission fluid (leaving out the motor oil) as a lubricant for firearms is that transmission fluid needs to keep a transmission clean, lubricated and doing so in a hot environment.
ATF is just oil with some additives. Notably anti-friction additives. As you mention, its optimized for hotter temperatures than you're likely to see on exposed bicycle chains, cogs, and chainrings. As far as firearms go, the debates on lubricants are almost as voluminous, interminable, and pointless as chain lube arguments are on bike forum. But given the fact that the military has to manage several million firearms for performance and durability, why not use their standard, CLP? (That's Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative, for non-shooters). I'd have to doubt that any lubricant around will significantly outperform CLP over a short run of 100-200 rounds.

I use the DuPont Teflon chain lube (and chain cleaner, too) mentioned above. Works fine. Quiet gears, easy shifting, the cleaner works great. Would my bike ride better if I used the latest $20-for-a-two-ounce-bottle dry lube ("with GobSnot(R), extracted from Gecko testicles!")? Doubt it.

Originally Posted by LesG
I apologize to everyone as the above is a bit off topic.
Oh, heck, this is bike forum. I don't think anyone noticed.
WizardOfBoz is offline  
Old 04-17-19, 09:28 AM
  #75  
rydabent
Senior Member
 
rydabent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lincoln Ne
Posts: 9,920

Bikes: RANS Stratus TerraTrike Tour II

Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3345 Post(s)
Liked 1,054 Times in 634 Posts
Originally Posted by LesG
Not that it really matters but did you mean to say Mobil1 transmission fluid? I've never used it for bicycles or firearms (nor will I) but, as you said, it is popular with firearms folks.
No I mean Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.
rydabent is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.