Good Chain Lube??? Mines WD40. :P
#51
Senior Member
I've used a small tube of antibiotic cream before I had with me in my kit, Neosporin? It worked in a pinch on a long day in the middle of no where. That is the day I stopped using anything labeled as a dry lube or mixed conditions lube. It was a very popular liquid dry/mixed lube (already mentioned in this thread) but it couldn't last more than 20 miles with some water and some grit thrown in. I switched to wet lubes that have some type of petroleum in it, I'll take the chain ring leg tattoos and I am perfectly happy with my average chain life. It's funny how something so popular and people swear by it and my experience was the exact opposite. That is why I tend to not get involved in someones personal choice. There are too many factors that may not be the same. If what you have works for you, keep using it!!
Last edited by u235; 04-15-19 at 08:56 AM.
#52
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Seriously OP, "The chain lube thread" lives in infamy here.
Here's one: Chain lube thread
The gist of it is:
Dry lube for dry/dusty summer conditions.
Wet lube for wet/rainy winter conditions.
Some will post a chart on the various chain longevity of various kinds of lube. It'll look like this:
aJ5IyhV7.jpeg by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr
Tri-flo, WD-40 come out mid-grade at best & others came out worst, Phil's & Chain-L came out best.
I tried WD-40, used it regularly and my chains lasted 1500 miles. Half of what is expected. I switched to Chain-L and am getting 5000+ miles per, with regular 1000 mile cleanings. I don't know how long it actually lasts. I have yet to have one wear out. The trick is wiping enough off that grime doesn't accumulate.
When the Chain-L is runs out, I'm just going to buy bar-oil from the home improvement store. It's the same thing.
Here's one: Chain lube thread
The gist of it is:
Dry lube for dry/dusty summer conditions.
Wet lube for wet/rainy winter conditions.
Some will post a chart on the various chain longevity of various kinds of lube. It'll look like this:
aJ5IyhV7.jpeg by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr
Tri-flo, WD-40 come out mid-grade at best & others came out worst, Phil's & Chain-L came out best.
I tried WD-40, used it regularly and my chains lasted 1500 miles. Half of what is expected. I switched to Chain-L and am getting 5000+ miles per, with regular 1000 mile cleanings. I don't know how long it actually lasts. I have yet to have one wear out. The trick is wiping enough off that grime doesn't accumulate.
When the Chain-L is runs out, I'm just going to buy bar-oil from the home improvement store. It's the same thing.
To the OP: I have used regular WD40 for chain lube a few times. It works ok but doesn't last long before the chain starts to complain again. The bigger issue is that a spray gets all over other stuff despite whatever precautions you make.
#53
Senior Member
I want the best of it all:
1st I use chain saw bar lube
then WD 40 wet
,next, WD40 dry,
then triflow
Last
wipe dry with rag sprayed with brake clean
1st I use chain saw bar lube
then WD 40 wet
,next, WD40 dry,
then triflow
Last
wipe dry with rag sprayed with brake clean
#54
Zip tie Karen
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Several unrelated thoughts...
that might benefit this thread:
- When I started maintaining my bike in the early 1970s, I used spray silicon on my chain (carefully) regularly, and it kept it both quiet and relatively clean.
- Spewed Smoothie would be a great name for a rock band.
- I've brewed up my own chain lubes for the last decade, and I can't decide if they work better or worse than some of the good commercial lubricants
- Agree with the firearm lubricant discussions above, and it is related. There is carbon grit and fouling, and things run better wet. Regular cleaning is better than not, but regular lubrication is equally good, for the most part.
- When I started maintaining my bike in the early 1970s, I used spray silicon on my chain (carefully) regularly, and it kept it both quiet and relatively clean.
- Spewed Smoothie would be a great name for a rock band.
- I've brewed up my own chain lubes for the last decade, and I can't decide if they work better or worse than some of the good commercial lubricants
- Agree with the firearm lubricant discussions above, and it is related. There is carbon grit and fouling, and things run better wet. Regular cleaning is better than not, but regular lubrication is equally good, for the most part.
#55
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It's a chain! It will wear out. It will last around 3000 miles no matter what you do to it. Why spend all that time, effort and lubricant? Pick one and be done with it.
And, if you haven't gotten it yet, the chain saw oil will be washed off by the WD40 wet which will be washed off by the WD40 dry which will be washed off by the Triflow. Kind of reminds me of a story about an old lady and a fly.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#56
Senior Member
What no chicken bones and incantations? Why do people insist on these elaborate rituals for cleaning and/or lubricating a chain? Your method is analogous to a belt, suspenders, duct tape, staples and surgical sutures.
It's a chain! It will wear out. It will last around 3000 miles no matter what you do to it. Why spend all that time, effort and lubricant? Pick one and be done with it.
And, if you haven't gotten it yet, the chain saw oil will be washed off by the WD40 wet which will be washed off by the WD40 dry which will be washed off by the Triflow. Kind of reminds me of a story about an old lady and a fly.
It's a chain! It will wear out. It will last around 3000 miles no matter what you do to it. Why spend all that time, effort and lubricant? Pick one and be done with it.
And, if you haven't gotten it yet, the chain saw oil will be washed off by the WD40 wet which will be washed off by the WD40 dry which will be washed off by the Triflow. Kind of reminds me of a story about an old lady and a fly.
Of course there’s an incantation to to cycling gods
as you hop around the bike counterclockwise
3 times on your left foot.
+marrow from bones of moose
...
my belt has came in useful a few times
...
Now badmouthing my use of duct tape & suspenders
is getting personal
....
hmmm:
never thought of staples,
how to use them?
...
My brooks saddle has some lacing, suture like I guess.
My grandkids know about the old lady who swallowed a fly, spider, bird etc....
#57
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Three parts extra virgin olive oil and one part wine vinegar. Don't wipe dry, lick. It tastes good and the saliva adds viscosity.
#59
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Not to hijack the thread, but will any of the proposed solutions stain or otherwise harm my new titanium frame? I was hoping to keep it forever. BTW what’s the best bike cleaner/wax? thanks
#60
Zip tie Karen
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And be buried with it, like the Egyptians?
#61
Senior Member
Suppose only people who actually used the specified chain lubricant were allowed to comment on it, this thread would only have 3 or 4 comments and only one pro WD40....Me!
#62
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As a kid on a BMX in the 80's, I sometimes used the only "lube" I could find in the house, vegetable oil.
#64
Senior Member
I just bought a brand new Bontrager carbon seatpost, and figured since I was in the Trek store, I'd buy some Bontrager chain lube. It's still so brand new, you cannot even find it mentioned on Google.
Will report back on its effectiveness in a few months.
Will report back on its effectiveness in a few months.
#65
Senior Member
1. Completely strip chain with mineral spirits. Allow to dry overnight.
2. Set chain in a medium-sized skillet. Brush on extra-virgin olive oil. Yes, olive oil.
3. Heat on low, 3 minutes, being sure not to allow oil to smoke. The goal here is to simply warm the chain and oil. Remove from heat.
4. Promptly sprinkle a *very* light coating of powdered sugar on your chain....less is better. Heat again on medium/high for 1 minute or until light brown sheen appears on chain. This is the caramelization phase.
5. Remove from heat, allow to cool, reinstall chain.
6. Enjoy an all-natural, food grade, "dry" lube that won't collect dirt and that is very water resistant, and titanium-safe!
#66
Zip tie Karen
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^now, that's a chain I would lick.
#67
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I have a custom ti frame from an artisanal builder who twice won best MTB at NAHBS. He recommends Pledge for sprucing up the frame.
#69
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I drank the Kool Aid, and it tastes good.
I got sick and tired of chain lube muck and cleanup. Dry lube wasn't too bad, but inevitably needing wet for a rainy or messy rides meant it would wind up on clothes, a Cat 5 racer chainring mark on your calf, and all over. Hard to clean, etc... How's it wind up on clothes? Get a mechanical in the woods on a gravel ride and if you have to touch the chain, RD, or anything there......it's on you like a tiger on a steak.
I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and cheapo mini crock and now wax. Never going back. Ever.
The extra time up front is well worth the nasty mess and cleanup you incur later with normal chain lubes.
Plus, you can buy a spare chain and have it ready to go for every 300 miles.
Again, anyone who puts more than 1000mi per bike owned per year should consider it.
1. For a used chain, run through a Park chain cleaner with degreaser first. For new chain, soak in gasoline to get factory shipping grease off.
2. Ultrasonic clean with hot water/degreaser mix
3. Dump, fill with hot water only.
4. Blow dry. Hair dryer, leaf blower is better.
5. Have your crock heating up during 1 through 4. Then dunk em in, swirl a while, lift and hang to cool.
6. After it's cool, break the wax stiffness for all the links by hand. Thread the chain on, then spin up for a couple minutes outdoors. This will fling off some wax, so don't do it indoors.
7. Enjoy a drive train so clean you could eat off it even 300 miles later.
I thought it was only some elite racer bull crap. Nope. It's the way to go.
I got sick and tired of chain lube muck and cleanup. Dry lube wasn't too bad, but inevitably needing wet for a rainy or messy rides meant it would wind up on clothes, a Cat 5 racer chainring mark on your calf, and all over. Hard to clean, etc... How's it wind up on clothes? Get a mechanical in the woods on a gravel ride and if you have to touch the chain, RD, or anything there......it's on you like a tiger on a steak.
I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and cheapo mini crock and now wax. Never going back. Ever.
The extra time up front is well worth the nasty mess and cleanup you incur later with normal chain lubes.
Plus, you can buy a spare chain and have it ready to go for every 300 miles.
Again, anyone who puts more than 1000mi per bike owned per year should consider it.
1. For a used chain, run through a Park chain cleaner with degreaser first. For new chain, soak in gasoline to get factory shipping grease off.
2. Ultrasonic clean with hot water/degreaser mix
3. Dump, fill with hot water only.
4. Blow dry. Hair dryer, leaf blower is better.
5. Have your crock heating up during 1 through 4. Then dunk em in, swirl a while, lift and hang to cool.
6. After it's cool, break the wax stiffness for all the links by hand. Thread the chain on, then spin up for a couple minutes outdoors. This will fling off some wax, so don't do it indoors.
7. Enjoy a drive train so clean you could eat off it even 300 miles later.
I thought it was only some elite racer bull crap. Nope. It's the way to go.
#70
Mad bike riding scientist
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I drank the Kool Aid, and it tastes good.
I got sick and tired of chain lube muck and cleanup. Dry lube wasn't too bad, but inevitably needing wet for a rainy or messy rides meant it would wind up on clothes, a Cat 5 racer chainring mark on your calf, and all over. Hard to clean, etc... How's it wind up on clothes? Get a mechanical in the woods on a gravel ride and if you have to touch the chain, RD, or anything there......it's on you like a tiger on a steak.
I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and cheapo mini crock and now wax. Never going back. Ever.
The extra time up front is well worth the nasty mess and cleanup you incur later with normal chain lubes.
Plus, you can buy a spare chain and have it ready to go for every 300 miles.
Again, anyone who puts more than 1000mi per bike owned per year should consider it.
1. For a used chain, run through a Park chain cleaner with degreaser first. For new chain, soak in gasoline to get factory shipping grease off.
2. Ultrasonic clean with hot water/degreaser mix
3. Dump, fill with hot water only.
4. Blow dry. Hair dryer, leaf blower is better.
5. Have your crock heating up during 1 through 4. Then dunk em in, swirl a while, lift and hang to cool.
6. After it's cool, break the wax stiffness for all the links by hand. Thread the chain on, then spin up for a couple minutes outdoors. This will fling off some wax, so don't do it indoors.
7. Enjoy a drive train so clean you could eat off it even 300 miles later.
I thought it was only some elite racer bull crap. Nope. It's the way to go.
I got sick and tired of chain lube muck and cleanup. Dry lube wasn't too bad, but inevitably needing wet for a rainy or messy rides meant it would wind up on clothes, a Cat 5 racer chainring mark on your calf, and all over. Hard to clean, etc... How's it wind up on clothes? Get a mechanical in the woods on a gravel ride and if you have to touch the chain, RD, or anything there......it's on you like a tiger on a steak.
I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and cheapo mini crock and now wax. Never going back. Ever.
The extra time up front is well worth the nasty mess and cleanup you incur later with normal chain lubes.
Plus, you can buy a spare chain and have it ready to go for every 300 miles.
Again, anyone who puts more than 1000mi per bike owned per year should consider it.
1. For a used chain, run through a Park chain cleaner with degreaser first. For new chain, soak in gasoline to get factory shipping grease off.
2. Ultrasonic clean with hot water/degreaser mix
3. Dump, fill with hot water only.
4. Blow dry. Hair dryer, leaf blower is better.
5. Have your crock heating up during 1 through 4. Then dunk em in, swirl a while, lift and hang to cool.
6. After it's cool, break the wax stiffness for all the links by hand. Thread the chain on, then spin up for a couple minutes outdoors. This will fling off some wax, so don't do it indoors.
7. Enjoy a drive train so clean you could eat off it even 300 miles later.
I thought it was only some elite racer bull crap. Nope. It's the way to go.
Gasoline is hazardous to your health and incredibly flammable. It will vaporize at just about any temperature you want to use it at (flash point -40°F) and that vapor will spread rapidly an invisibly.
There are other solvents which are far less flammable and far less toxic. Mineral spirits is just as effect but has a flash point in the 70° F to 130°F range depending on the grade. Odorless mineral spirits is in the 130°F range. You should still take precautions like using it in a well ventilated area and using personal protection equipment but you don't have to be as vigilant.
Second, this is a prime example of overcomplicating what should be a fairly simple procedure. Why do an organic solvent cleaning (DON'T USE GASOLINE!) and follow it up with a water based degreaser and follow it up with a water rinse? The organic solvent (DON'T USE GASOLINE!) will do everything the water based degreaser does without the need to remove the degreaser and then remove the water. The wax won't be hurt by any residual factory lubricant and will just act as a solvent.
Your procedure is also rather involved for something that needs to be done every 300 miles or so. Depending on how much you ride, that could be something that is done as often as weekly. Most people have better things to do.
Compare your elaborate procedure to what I do. I strip the chain of factory lubricant when I install it with mineral spirits (DON'T USE GASOLINE!). 30 seconds of swishing it around in a cup (or less) is all it takes. I take it out and let it dry. I install it and use a wax based lubricant. I add wax based lubricant as needed and never remove the chain until it is replaced. The interval I get between lubrication is 600 to 700 miles unless it rains but I'm not concerned with that too much. I've used this method while on tours all over the US without any issues whatsoever. It's simple, effective and efficient. And my drivetrain is every bit as clean as yours. I just spend less time on keep it that way.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#72
Junior Member
I use Boshield T-9 on all other lube points EXCEPT for the chain in which I use Tri-Flow. Don't you find Boeshield too "thin"? I know it leaves a waxy film after it dries. Is that enough lube? What do you guys think of using WD-40 as a chain cleaner, then using another product for lube? Is WD-40 enough of a degreaser? Is there a better spray on chain cleaner. The reason I ask is I have WD-40 on hand, as most do, so will give it a try.
#73
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I'm open to not using the gas for the stripping.
I do time trail. Things need to be perfect. I also have a spare chain for all 3 bikes. So, it's literally 30 seconds to swap chains. If I'm doing the crazy work for the TT bike chain only, it's only like a minute or two extra work while I'm doing it to give the others the same treatment. All three chains fit in the ultrasonic cleaner.
So, really, it's only once every 600 to maybe 800 miles I have to do anything. Not every 300. 300 to 400 times two is 600 to 800. And.......that's per bike. I have the miles split between the TT bike, road race bike, and multi use cyclocross bike. So, if the miles are assumed equal...........multiply the time interval again by 3 because it's spread among 3 bikes.
Given my yearly mileage, that's going to be probably doing this procedure a few times. Like three at most. 3 cleanings/waxes x 800 = 2400 x 3 bikes = 7200 miles riding on only doing this 3 times per year.
Adding dry tube o lube on top of dry tube o lube is just adding lube/wax on top of contamination. It's probably perfectly fine for what you use it for, but internal contamination is what wears out the parts in a chain faster. It doesn't stretch, the rollers and moving parts literally wear so there are more clearances that stack up over the length of the chain to make it longer. The plates don't stretch, nothing stretches.
Just my opinion, but I'd guess chains would last longer the less contamination that gets routinely left in the thing.
So, my cost incurred of owning 3 spare chains could eventually be offset by them each lasting longer.
I do time trail. Things need to be perfect. I also have a spare chain for all 3 bikes. So, it's literally 30 seconds to swap chains. If I'm doing the crazy work for the TT bike chain only, it's only like a minute or two extra work while I'm doing it to give the others the same treatment. All three chains fit in the ultrasonic cleaner.
So, really, it's only once every 600 to maybe 800 miles I have to do anything. Not every 300. 300 to 400 times two is 600 to 800. And.......that's per bike. I have the miles split between the TT bike, road race bike, and multi use cyclocross bike. So, if the miles are assumed equal...........multiply the time interval again by 3 because it's spread among 3 bikes.
Given my yearly mileage, that's going to be probably doing this procedure a few times. Like three at most. 3 cleanings/waxes x 800 = 2400 x 3 bikes = 7200 miles riding on only doing this 3 times per year.
Adding dry tube o lube on top of dry tube o lube is just adding lube/wax on top of contamination. It's probably perfectly fine for what you use it for, but internal contamination is what wears out the parts in a chain faster. It doesn't stretch, the rollers and moving parts literally wear so there are more clearances that stack up over the length of the chain to make it longer. The plates don't stretch, nothing stretches.
Just my opinion, but I'd guess chains would last longer the less contamination that gets routinely left in the thing.
So, my cost incurred of owning 3 spare chains could eventually be offset by them each lasting longer.
#74
Generally bewildered
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I use the DuPont Teflon chain lube (and chain cleaner, too) mentioned above. Works fine. Quiet gears, easy shifting, the cleaner works great. Would my bike ride better if I used the latest $20-for-a-two-ounce-bottle dry lube ("with GobSnot(R), extracted from Gecko testicles!")? Doubt it.
Oh, heck, this is bike forum. I don't think anyone noticed.