Good Chain Lube??? Mines WD40. :P
#176
Banned.
The best way to keep dirt off is to have a fully enclosed chain case...like the Dutch town bikes in cities all over Neaderlands.
But these only work on bikes with IGH.
Having exposed chain is always going to be a losing battle, no matter what high tech lube you use.
SOmeone should invent a full chain case for derailleured bicycles.
But these only work on bikes with IGH.
Having exposed chain is always going to be a losing battle, no matter what high tech lube you use.
SOmeone should invent a full chain case for derailleured bicycles.
How about Belt drive ?
#177
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A belt drive actually takes more watts to operate, https://www.bikeradar.com/news/chain...ich-is-faster/
Plus a belt drive weighs a lot more and thus combined with the wattage loss and the lack of gears it's impractical for a traditional road bike.
Plus a belt drive weighs a lot more and thus combined with the wattage loss and the lack of gears it's impractical for a traditional road bike.
#178
Senior Member
WD-40 is great stuff. I use it on chain, cables, derailleurs, brakes. And on frame tubes it really shines up the paint.
#179
Senior Member
I use WD40 to help degrease parts on my bike and old British sports car. It does a good job of breaking down grease and oil. And, it's easier to get it all off once the degreasing job is done.
Of course it's a good lubricant. After all it's "water displacement formula number 40" and was designed to prevent corrosion. Preventing corrosion and lubricating are the same thing, right?
Of course it's a good lubricant. After all it's "water displacement formula number 40" and was designed to prevent corrosion. Preventing corrosion and lubricating are the same thing, right?
#180
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#181
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Painting, powder-coating, electroplating, and anodizing, all prevent corrosion.
But I never heard anyone claim they are lubricants.
But I never heard anyone claim they are lubricants.
#183
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Chains are about 34% more efficient than belts; more money consumed by belt drive; cost about $500 more for a new bike with belt drive vs chain; replacing worn out parts on the belt system ranges 400 to 800 percent more over chain drives; can't customize your gear ratios according to your needs; not practical for touring; so I'll give all up all of those advantages that chains have for a cleaner no lube system...
#184
Senior Member
Chains are about 34% more efficient than belts; more money consumed by belt drive; cost about $500 more for a new bike with belt drive vs chain; replacing worn out parts on the belt system ranges 400 to 800 percent more over chain drives; can't customize your gear ratios according to your needs; not practical for touring; so I'll give all up all of those advantages that chains have for a cleaner no lube system...
Last edited by Duragrouch; 05-20-19 at 10:10 PM.
#185
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Yes, but if you have the money for a Rohloff, or even better, a Pinion drive system, money is no object. And belts are quiet. I'm a retired engineer and I can't believe your efficiency numbers, I think that may be chains compared to V-BELTS which have significant friction losses (EDIT: They are comparing cogged belts to a fixed gear (cog) with chain, no derailleur); Cogged belts, especially narrow, Kevlar-core ones, are quite efficient, perhaps even superior to chains that have to run tight bends around small cogs and through the durailleur. Internal Gear Hubs have greater efficiency loss, on the order of 5-7% when not in the one direct-drive gear. The Pinion system may be better, but more expensive than my car, and requires a special-built frame. My only gripe about belts is that they require a frame with no chainstays or a break in them to be able to use a belt.
As far as the Rolhoff, it does take a few percent of efficiency loss compared to a conventional chain/derailleur system. Noticably more loss in the lower ratios. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear definitely feel like there is a bunch of things engaged inside combining for a "draggy" feel. They do get better as things break-in though. A couple of watts (like, under 10 at speed) is well worth the trade off for other considerations.
#186
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I only came here for the internet stranger arguments trying to tell the others they are dumber. Was not disappointed :
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#187
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Right. I was reading an article regarding a Gates Carbon Drive vs chain and thete was a cross over point where below which a chain is more efficient, above which a belt won. The results did have some variability with tension. Of course, this is different than a v-belt whose mode of operation is friction on an inclined plane.
As far as the Rolhoff, it does take a few percent of efficiency loss compared to a conventional chain/derailleur system. Noticably more loss in the lower ratios. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear definitely feel like there is a bunch of things engaged inside combining for a "draggy" feel. They do get better as things break-in though. A couple of watts (like, under 10 at speed) is well worth the trade off for other considerations.
As far as the Rolhoff, it does take a few percent of efficiency loss compared to a conventional chain/derailleur system. Noticably more loss in the lower ratios. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear definitely feel like there is a bunch of things engaged inside combining for a "draggy" feel. They do get better as things break-in though. A couple of watts (like, under 10 at speed) is well worth the trade off for other considerations.
Ouch. If you can feel it like that, it's more than a couple of watts.
#188
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It's just the bottom of the range & I wouldn't call it "snappy" but a little "sponge" in relation to a chain...not that feel has much to do with actual efficiency. Cruising the world on a 15% grade at 3 or 4 mph gives a lot of time to fuss over minutia.
It is noticably better than when I got it 300 miles & a week & a half ago. When I was unloaded & held 30 mph in top gear @ 90rpm for about a half mile I wouldn't say hub efficiency even crossed my mind.
#189
Senior Member
That is an excellent question. The ones I've used were not. WD-40 Bike line chain lube sprays on good, quick and convenient but not budget friendly. Bar and Chain Oil for chainsaws is tacky, and offers more thicker product for less money.
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#190
Banned.
Chains are about 34% more efficient than belts; more money consumed by belt drive; cost about $500 more for a new bike with belt drive vs chain; replacing worn out parts on the belt system ranges 400 to 800 percent more over chain drives; can't customize your gear ratios according to your needs; not practical for touring; so I'll give all up all of those advantages that chains have for a cleaner no lube system...
#191
Banned.
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-B...23961909&psc=1
just buy this and be done with it
buy a bottle of the wet as well
you will be all set
its the best stuff available
just buy this and be done with it
buy a bottle of the wet as well
you will be all set
its the best stuff available
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#192
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I use WD40 to help degrease parts on my bike and old British sports car. It does a good job of breaking down grease and oil. And, it's easier to get it all off once the degreasing job is done.
Of course it's a good lubricant. After all it's "water displacement formula number 40" and was designed to prevent corrosion. Preventing corrosion and lubricating are the same thing, right?
Of course it's a good lubricant. After all it's "water displacement formula number 40" and was designed to prevent corrosion. Preventing corrosion and lubricating are the same thing, right?
#193
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So you want more info because mine didn't work for you? What? all you people can't use google?
https://www.cantitoeroad.com/Chains-...ists_b_23.html
https://www.downtube.com/pages/belt-...ich-to-choose/
https://www.rodbikes.com/articles/gates-belt-drive.html
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q...rformance-only
https://www.cantitoeroad.com/Chains-...ists_b_23.html
https://www.downtube.com/pages/belt-...ich-to-choose/
https://www.rodbikes.com/articles/gates-belt-drive.html
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q...rformance-only
#194
Senior Member
Isn't this the reason for having wet and dry lube .... dry is theoretically better as it doesn't allow dust etc to attach to it so easily and the chain stays cleaner BUT it gets washed off too easily when it's wet offering no lubrication and hence why the need for wet in the winter months??
That's not saying I have the definitive answer but just throwing what I've read elsewhere and seems logical into the pot for discussion.
I think Baby Oil would be best because it smells nicer than the others
#195
Senior Member
I don't know where/how you guys ride, but I've never had to degrease or "clean" a chain in my life! Just wipe down with a clean rag after each ride and apply lube when needed. My chains have looked good enough to floss with! (granted I NEVER ride in mud, and avoid rainy rides at all costs).
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#196
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Motorcycle chain lube is much heavier than bike lube. Not saying ti doesn't work, but I've seen studies that appear to prove that lube that heavy does steal wattage from your efforts.
#197
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I don't know where/how you guys ride, but I've never had to degrease or "clean" a chain in my life! Just wipe down with a clean rag after each ride and apply lube when needed. My chains have looked good enough to floss with! (granted I NEVER ride in mud, and avoid rainy rides at all costs).
-Matt
#198
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Also, a chain with tacky lube pulls off a sprocket easier than pulling a piece of transparent tape, so I'm not too worried.
#200
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I'm not arguing with a man who rides a 40lb bike. You might throw it at me.
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