Bike buying guides
#26
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Bikes: 2017 Surly Cross-Check. 2020 Specialized Turbo Vado 3.0, 2002 GT Dyno Roadster, 2002 Rans Stratus, 2020 Giant Fathom 2, 2011 Trek Pure Sport
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I just got back into bikes a couple of years ago. My biggest gripe is rigid aluminum forks. I find that I enjoy the ride of steel framed /forked bikes, but if it is aluminum, you may want shock absorbing forks and a sprung seatpost.(the latter being an inexpensive add-on)
There are a lot of changes in mountain bikes, since the 90's. But I'm not sure what your forte' is focused on...
There are a lot of changes in mountain bikes, since the 90's. But I'm not sure what your forte' is focused on...
#27
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Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
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I just got back into bikes a couple of years ago. My biggest gripe is rigid aluminum forks. I find that I enjoy the ride of steel framed /forked bikes, but if it is aluminum, you may want shock absorbing forks and a sprung seatpost.(the latter being an inexpensive add-on)
There are a lot of changes in mountain bikes, since the 90's. But I'm not sure what your forte' is focused on...
There are a lot of changes in mountain bikes, since the 90's. But I'm not sure what your forte' is focused on...
I own two Al bikes with CF forks, and a a 1983 Cannondale with an Al frame and a steel fork, which proves that even 35 years ago you didn't need a shock or bouncy seat-post to get a good ride from an Al frame.
If anyone were to have asked here, I am sure a lot of folks would have advised against the Al fork.
You can buy replacement forks, by the way ... and not overweight, oversized suspension forks, but a steel or CF fork in the same size as the Al fork on your current bike. Probably very worth it.
#28
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I appreciate *all* the replies. You guys have given me a lot to think about. I came here not asking for specific advice, but for a guide or two to help me understand what's out there. I was not in a position to ask specific questions and didn't want to waste people's time. I didn't want to come in and ask what very light road bike made sense, have everyone answer, then come back a week later and say, ok I've decided a want a lower end hybrid what do you suggest? Then two weeks later ask questions about plan C, and have you guys decide I'm a flake here just to ask questions infinitely with no clear plan. Because I didn't have a clear plan. I was surprised there wasn't a post or guide here "How to choose a bike", hence my initial question.
Part of what I want to do depends on what I can do. If I can go on 50 miles rides, I will. But I suspect that I cannot anymore. As for budget, I can spend whatever I want, but since I don't know how well this is going to work, I'm not going to shell out $5,000 for a bike that would just sit in the garage. I probably will be begin (and possible end) with a 'starter' bike and see how it goes.
Again thank you all for the detailed feedback, I appreciate it.
Part of what I want to do depends on what I can do. If I can go on 50 miles rides, I will. But I suspect that I cannot anymore. As for budget, I can spend whatever I want, but since I don't know how well this is going to work, I'm not going to shell out $5,000 for a bike that would just sit in the garage. I probably will be begin (and possible end) with a 'starter' bike and see how it goes.
Again thank you all for the detailed feedback, I appreciate it.
Likes For donald_s:
#29
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Location: Union, KY (Near Cincinnati)
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Bikes: '17 Trek FX2, '19 Trek FX 3 Disc
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I appreciate *all* the replies. You guys have given me a lot to think about. I came here not asking for specific advice, but for a guide or two to help me understand what's out there. I was not in a position to ask specific questions and didn't want to waste people's time. I didn't want to come in and ask what very light road bike made sense, have everyone answer, then come back a week later and say, ok I've decided a want a lower end hybrid what do you suggest? Then two weeks later ask questions about plan C, and have you guys decide I'm a flake here just to ask questions infinitely with no clear plan. Because I didn't have a clear plan. I was surprised there wasn't a post or guide here "How to choose a bike", hence my initial question.
Part of what I want to do depends on what I can do. If I can go on 50 miles rides, I will. But I suspect that I cannot anymore. As for budget, I can spend whatever I want, but since I don't know how well this is going to work, I'm not going to shell out $5,000 for a bike that would just sit in the garage. I probably will be begin (and possible end) with a 'starter' bike and see how it goes.
Again thank you all for the detailed feedback, I appreciate it.
Part of what I want to do depends on what I can do. If I can go on 50 miles rides, I will. But I suspect that I cannot anymore. As for budget, I can spend whatever I want, but since I don't know how well this is going to work, I'm not going to shell out $5,000 for a bike that would just sit in the garage. I probably will be begin (and possible end) with a 'starter' bike and see how it goes.
Again thank you all for the detailed feedback, I appreciate it.
As for internet research, I like the actual manufacturers' websites as well. Some are better than others, but you can look at the bikes and get more ideas that way.
#30
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Test rides, variety, experimentation ... and yes, unless you are certain of what you plan to do, get a $500 bike and use it as a rain bike/backup next season when you decide what to seriously invest in.
#31
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I got into cycling a couple years ago. I cannot stress enough the importance of hitting a few shops and getting opinions and test rides. Over the last 10 years, I tried to get into it a couple times - and made the mistake of only going to the most well-known bike shop in the area, a local chain. They sell good bikes, and they have decent service, but the staff with whom I was working had biases, and ended up putting me on bikes they thought I'd like - and thus I thought I'd like - but I didn't. They kept me on comfort bikes since I'm a bigger guy, and I don't want a super-aggressive position or drop bars. However, when I gave it another run 2 years ago, I went to several shops and found one that was willing to work with me, watch me on my test rides, and discuss the various aspects of what I wanted to do. Now I bike every day the weather permits - and some that it doesn't . For me, the right fit was a fitness bike, closer to a flat-bar road bike. Not as aggressive a position as an actual road bike, but not sitting straight up like a comfort. Not big thick knobby tires like a mountain bike. Finally, a bike that works for me (Trek FX2, for the specific model. Potentially about to move up a notch to an FX3 Disc ) - and I had done a bunch of internet research as well, but it helped to put my self-formed biases aside and work with the guys that knew more.
As for internet research, I like the actual manufacturers' websites as well. Some are better than others, but you can look at the bikes and get more ideas that way.
As for internet research, I like the actual manufacturers' websites as well. Some are better than others, but you can look at the bikes and get more ideas that way.
#32
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Do you mind telling us what kind of bike your old road bike is. It could be that it is easily converted to a more upright position.
FWIW I just converted my 1988 Schwinn Letour to a flat bar bar setup and although I'm using the downtube shifters still those are easily changed to thumbshifters of some sort.
My oldest bike is a 1972 Fuji Finest which is still an old friction shifting set up, when I bought it it was set up as a flat bar city bike.
FWIW I just converted my 1988 Schwinn Letour to a flat bar bar setup and although I'm using the downtube shifters still those are easily changed to thumbshifters of some sort.
My oldest bike is a 1972 Fuji Finest which is still an old friction shifting set up, when I bought it it was set up as a flat bar city bike.
#33
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Bikes: Masi Giramondo, Trek 830 monstercross build, Raleigh Gran Sport, Lemond Tourmalet
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Not a guide, but before you rule out drop bars completely I would look for high stack adventure or gravel bikes. They tend to have a much more upright posture than vintage drop bar bikes, and you don't sacrifice the ergonomic benefits of the wrist position. Examples include the masi giramondo, Marin 4corners, etc. If that still doesn't work try something like a trek fx which is a flat bar road bike, and work from there.
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