detshiva

I am getting to where I've only got a few years left to ride, if I am lucky. I can't afford afford or need a top end bike But Ide like to fix ths one up some.


I would like to know what it would take to put a 10/54 cassette on it, it has a 11/34 now. And what size chain ring(s) I'll need


The other thing I want to do is put a better fork on it. I would like to know the type of steering tube it needs without taking it apart. in case something goes wrong and have to wait for money and parts to fix it.


I'm looking to do this with high end poor boy or take off parts


Thanks
Tony

HillRider

Does anyone even make a 10x54 cassette? I'm aware of 10x50 (SRAM) and 10x51 (Shimano) and I believe these are both 12-speed. To use either one would require a complete change of drivetrain and the cassettes alone are shockingly expensive.

detshiva

I could be wrong, thats wha remember the guy at the bike shop said it was. A 12 speed cassette anyway

So that means everything but the wheel. Crank set, chain, cassette. And derailleur

Tony

HillRider

Rear wheel too. 12-speed freehubs are different. Also, don't forget the new shifter. This is not going to be a cheap or easy upgrade.

detshiva

I am thinking it will still be cheaper than a new bike with 12 speed drivetrain. putting a few hundred bucks into it will make it pretty nice bike and the drivetrain parts will be new.

Thanks everyone, now I know what it will take to change the gearing

HillRider

Go to the "Bike Rumor" web site. A company named "TRW" (probably not the TRW of military equipment fame) is now offering an 11-speed 1x11 drivetrain (11x50 or 11x52 cassette, crank, bottom bracket,. rear derailleur, chain and shifter) for about $400 with a 1x12 (10x50 cassette) similar group coming soon. Check it out.

jimc101

Taking it that this is what you have https://www.amazon.com/Gravity-Suspe.../dp/B0147MDLOS

Being realistic, any money you throw at that is wasted, as there is no potential upgradability in that bike (or at least one that is worth doing).

By the time you have done what you are proposing, with the cassette and forks you would have been able to buy a new bike, with everything you want fitted with the money spent, if it's even possible, and from just a quick look a the bike, putting almost any current cassette/fork on would be hard if it was to be to the spec you have listed/any actual upgrade.

HillRider

+1 I hadn't looked up the bike before but, assuming the one jimc101 found is what you have, don't spend a nickel upgrading it. It's a small step above Walmart quality and you will throw good money after bad trying to improve it. It's already got a triple crank and a Megarange cassette so what do you expect to accomplish with the gearing changes you propose? A decent front fork will cost more than that entire bike and a drivetrain change will double that.

Wilfred Laurier

What are you hoping to accomplish with this upgrade? The single pivot suspension design, while functional, will be absorbing more energy than you can save by swapping parts.

The only meaningful improvement you could make is switching to different or better tires - if you only ride on road, lose the knobbies and put some road tires on. If you do go off roading you can find tires with a lighter casing and foldable bead and you will notice a difference. But it would be a total waste of time and treasure to try to improve it beyond that.

detshiva

everything you guys say is true, a new bike with what it will cost would probably be the smart thing.

My thinking was and still is I am 62 years old weigh 260 lbs and don't have the legs or wind to warrant a serious mtb anymore. Being in arizona I have plenty of places to ride but most likely could not even pay someone to ride with.

This bike has a simple frame so I hope anyway with a better than junk drivetrain and suspension it would be a great bike for me, it would be fun to do the work and getting it to work right.

I feel pretty safe on it and can get away with things I'd never try with other bikes I've had.

Heck I went over the handle bars on an official road around here with my 29er a couple years ago.

The reason for this post was to get an idea what needs to be done and get an idea of what I'd have to look for on craigslist and ebay Maybe a project or hobby and you always loose money on them.

Just want to be able to buy the right parts the first time. If I had more money I'd be restoring a k5 blazer with 6" lift an 35 40 inch tires.But will have to settle for a suped up better than wallmart bicycle

Thanks for all the replies
Tonk

detshiva

[QUOTE=Wilfred Laurier;20850367]What are you hoping to accomplish with this upgrade? The single pivot suspension design, while functional, will be absorbing more energy than you can save by swapping parts.

Well the big thing is spread out the gear ranges, around here you can't go very far without pulling a pretty good grade for a mile or more. Where I live I have to either haul the bike somewhere or climb hills that people less than push their bikes up or loop round and round a a very small subdivision.

As for Improving the suspension, if I get past the school or circle k there are some easy to intermediate trails which I find more fun than climing miles to the next towns

tony

RubeRad

I assume this is also the same bike. I agree, don't pour money into it, but I also say it may well serve you well. Since you're "62 years old weigh 260 lbs and don't have the legs or wind", you might not be able to ride beyond this bike's capabilities anyways.

Those super wide range cassettes like 10-50 are designed to be part of single-crankset systems; I don't know if there exist rear derailleurs that have enough 'capacity/chain-wrap' to handle the 40-tooth difference in the back AND a 22-tooth difference in the front.

Check out this online gear calculator. On the top is something like your current setup, with 22/32/42 triple crankset in the front, and 11-34 8sp cassette in the back. Below is a SRAM Eagle 12sp 10-50 cassette in the back, and a 32-tooth single chainring in the front.

The SRAM Eagle 1x setup boasts 500% range (10-50). Your triple has 590% range. So you are already better off than what you are considering (unless you get into smaller 1x chainrings).

Here is a better option for you to consider. Getting a granny cog of 40 teeth instead of 34 will make a significant difference for you getting up hills. It even comes with a derailleur hanger extender, to help your existing derailleur reach the teeth on that largest cog, and it's only $20. You might also need to replace the chain though, because your current chain might not be long enough for big-big with your current crankset and this cassette.

detshiva

I want to thank all of you very much for the Suggestions, criticism (which was my original plan was a little crazy but asking people that know bikes worked) and the perfect solution.

The 40 tooth cog, new chain and a suntour Epixon fork will be less than 300 bucks and I'll be ready to try Windy Point and powerline road again.

I had been looking and the only option I saw was having to buy a hub, spokes make a 26 inch wheel wirh that 11/50 cassette because I didn't see any for sale on amazon or in a search. Of ebay. If they may make em but I didn't find any. Got away with it a few times in the olden days wasn't crazy about trying it agaim

It and a chain are gonna be here tomorrow
Way kool
Tony

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detshiva

I was hoping the extra cogs would make the gears closer together. That is easier to fibd a gesr not too fast or too slow where I can still hold a 65 to 75 cadence. I believe under 3rd cog in back get harder to pedal because you loose speed and momentum. abd you are forcing the bike up the hill instead of just adding enough to keep the momentum pushing you up the hill

Maybe my main Fairley steep really long climbing gear will change to 3;1 insted of 2:1 and still stay on top of the gear

I was thinking of trying an 11 speed cassette and experimenting with what size front I could handle
This is about 10% of the cost so worth a try for sure

Tony

RubeRad

You can't just try an 11 speed cassette without switching from your 8-speed shifter to an 11-speed shifter, and probably a different derailleur as well. (Unless your 8-speed shifter is a friction shifter, which I very much doubt.)

Bottom line, you can't cheat at the math. If you want close spacing, then you limit the overall range of the cassette. So narrow spacing will either go from 11 to not enough for you, or, say, 14 to 36. But I'm not sure you can find such a beast in the wild (8-speed 14-36 casette). It would probably take some customization/frankenwerking of two cassettes like this.

You already have a triple up front, the 2x range between the 22 granny and 44 'big' ring already gives you a big head start on wide range, while allowing your spacing to stay relatively narrow. Your best bet is still to look for an 8-speed 11-36 cassette.

detshiva

First I used a chain long enough to use all the front cogs. It worked but the small one was unusable it flapped and and never stopped shifting. The way the swing arm works a tensioner doesn't seem posable or worth the trouble.

What worked pretty good,

It has the same range in 6 shifts instead of 7 and has a low gear close to the old setup 1:1 on the middle cog and the small is crazy low. Plus I got what I was looking for, on the 44 cog if it gets too fast or too slow one click and I'm real close to a comfortable cadence.

I put the old chain back on and adjusted the front derailleur to where it won't go on the big ring.

I realize now 13 would have been too many. A 9 with a 40 oval might be perfect. But that can wait untill I get the fork bob problem taken care of.