Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Airwings seat post

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Airwings seat post

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-24-19, 01:50 PM
  #1  
coffeesnob
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
coffeesnob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Va
Posts: 707

Bikes: Trek DS 8.3 - cannondale M500

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2634 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times in 82 Posts
Airwings seat post



Does the collar on this seat post (red arrow) adjust? I need for the post to go down a little bit as it's a little high for me but I don't know how to move the collar or, if it is even an option. Thanks
coffeesnob is offline  
Old 03-24-19, 02:08 PM
  #2  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times in 3,351 Posts
Is that some kind of a suspension post?

There are brands of adjustable posts, but I don't think that is one.

I don't think that collar is designed to be moved, and taking it off could cause a mess.

How far does it have to go down? You may be able to remove the quick release band, and lower that slightly by cutting the frame. 1/2cm? 1cm?

But, I'd probably hunt for a different post.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 03-24-19, 02:09 PM
  #3  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
Does not look like it . I think I see it butting (flaring wider) against the Top of the seat tube..
fietsbob is offline  
Old 03-24-19, 02:34 PM
  #4  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times in 3,351 Posts
Oh... looked it up.
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html



I wouldn't mess with that set screw, unless you absolutely need to open the post for maintenance.

It looks like there are a couple of versions.

The Airwing 360 has about 50mm of suspension travel.
The Airwing 320 has about 35mm of suspension travel.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 03-24-19, 02:44 PM
  #5  
coffeesnob
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
coffeesnob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Va
Posts: 707

Bikes: Trek DS 8.3 - cannondale M500

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2634 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK
Is that some kind of a suspension post?

There are brands of adjustable posts, but I don't think that is one.

I don't think that collar is designed to be moved, and taking it off could cause a mess.

How far does it have to go down? You may be able to remove the quick release band, and lower that slightly by cutting the frame. 1/2cm? 1cm?

But, I'd probably hunt for a different post.
Yes it is suspension and it works pretty good. There is an adjustment screw (allen head) on the bottom of the post that adjusts the firmness of the suspension. At least that is what I think it is there for. The post is so nice that I hate to replace it with another one.. first class problem I guess
coffeesnob is offline  
Old 03-24-19, 02:50 PM
  #6  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
Air Wings is German, as are the Magura Brakes , also shown..

My Koga WTR came with an Air Wings Tour model seat post , Zero Setback (found a picture)

so I got a Cane Creek Thudbuster ST.. for more setback..

saddle rail to top of seat tube is about 11cm in my case ... think 10cm is the lowest possible ..

before looking for low profile saddles.. so rail to top of saddle is less...




....
'

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-24-19 at 03:13 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 03-24-19, 02:56 PM
  #7  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times in 2,053 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK
Oh... looked it up.
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html


I wouldn't mess with that set screw, unless you absolutely need to open the post for maintenance.
While the drawing doesn't show it, I believe the "set screw" to be #6 - the grease nipple as shown here.https://www.airwings-systems.de/technologie.html

It can be removed to grease but won't help your problem.

Last edited by dedhed; 03-24-19 at 03:02 PM.
dedhed is offline  
Old 03-25-19, 11:57 AM
  #8  
coffeesnob
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
coffeesnob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Va
Posts: 707

Bikes: Trek DS 8.3 - cannondale M500

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2634 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by dedhed
While the drawing doesn't show it, I believe the "set screw" to be #6 - the grease nipple as shown here.https://www.airwings-systems.de/technologie.html

It can be removed to grease but won't help your problem.
I wonder If I can cut about an inch off of the end of the post that attaches to the saddle bracket I wouldn't think that would hurt anything do you all?
coffeesnob is offline  
Old 03-25-19, 12:08 PM
  #9  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times in 3,351 Posts
Originally Posted by coffeesnob
I wonder If I can cut about an inch off of the end of the post that attaches to the saddle bracket I wouldn't think that would hurt anything do you all?
I think I mentioned modding your frame, but only going for maybe 1 cm max.

But, cutting the seatpost?

That might work.

How is the top of the post held in place?

I think you risk the whole thing falling apart when you're riding if not done right.

If I was you, I'd keep that post for a different bike, and start hunting for a more appropriate seatpost.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 03-25-19, 12:10 PM
  #10  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times in 3,351 Posts
Hnmmm... Another "adjustment".

What length are your cranks? Could you change from say 175mm to 170mm? That would in effect move your seat up about 5mm or so.

Also you could look for thicker pedals for a little more effective height.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 03-25-19, 04:19 PM
  #11  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times in 2,053 Posts
As you said I'd see how the actual seat clamp mounts to the shaft on top and think about shortening it on that end. Might be a simple as a set screw.

Doing it at the bottom would be a can of worms. It looks like you possibly could shorten #9 but I'm guessing you would need to cut a groove for the #12 circlip. You'd also have to make sure you didn't remove too much to have it bottom out. Plus you'd have to deal with all that ball cage stuff, seals in addition to all the parts above the air chamber like #15-16 et al. Your chances of ruining it are pretty good. .

https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
dedhed is offline  
Old 03-26-19, 10:04 AM
  #12  
coffeesnob
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
coffeesnob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Va
Posts: 707

Bikes: Trek DS 8.3 - cannondale M500

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2634 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by dedhed
As you said I'd see how the actual seat clamp mounts to the shaft on top and think about shortening it on that end. Might be a simple as a set screw.

Doing it at the bottom would be a can of worms. It looks like you possibly could shorten #9 but I'm guessing you would need to cut a groove for the #12 circlip. You'd also have to make sure you didn't remove too much to have it bottom out. Plus you'd have to deal with all that ball cage stuff, seals in addition to all the parts above the air chamber like #15-16 et al. Your chances of ruining it are pretty good. .

https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html

I think I could cut the end off on the seat side and not ruin it. It's just a simple cut
coffeesnob is offline  
Old 03-26-19, 10:05 AM
  #13  
coffeesnob
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
coffeesnob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Va
Posts: 707

Bikes: Trek DS 8.3 - cannondale M500

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2634 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK
Hnmmm... Another "adjustment".

What length are your cranks? Could you change from say 175mm to 170mm? That would in effect move your seat up about 5mm or so.

Also you could look for thicker pedals for a little more effective height.
I've got new pedals coming in. Im not going to change the cranks
coffeesnob is offline  
Old 03-26-19, 10:28 AM
  #14  
coffeesnob
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
coffeesnob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Va
Posts: 707

Bikes: Trek DS 8.3 - cannondale M500

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2634 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times in 82 Posts
One more question for anyone that knows. How do I release those rim brakes so I can take the rims off. I'm used to just squeezing them and releasing the cable.
coffeesnob is offline  
Old 03-26-19, 11:53 PM
  #15  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times in 3,351 Posts
Originally Posted by coffeesnob
One more question for anyone that knows. How do I release those rim brakes so I can take the rims off. I'm used to just squeezing them and releasing the cable.
Are those hydraulic rim brakes?

How about some better photos of the brake levers at the handlebars and the brake calipers at the wheels.

An option is to always either flatten a tire, or remove a brake pad, but there has to be a better way.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 03-27-19, 12:15 AM
  #16  
wesmamyke
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,174
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 196 Post(s)
Liked 86 Times in 76 Posts
Originally Posted by CliffordK
Are those hydraulic rim brakes?

How about some better photos of the brake levers at the handlebars and the brake calipers at the wheels.

An option is to always either flatten a tire, or remove a brake pad, but there has to be a better way.
There is a quick release built into the hydraulic rim brakes, it's just barely in the picture posted. The right side caliper has a lever pointing up, flip that 180 degrees and the whole caliper is free to move. The booster will release also, one side is just sitting over the head of the bolt and will slip off.
wesmamyke is offline  
Old 03-28-19, 10:18 AM
  #17  
coffeesnob
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
coffeesnob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Va
Posts: 707

Bikes: Trek DS 8.3 - cannondale M500

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2634 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times in 82 Posts
[Are those hydraulic rim brakes?

How about some better photos of the brake levers at the handlebars and the brake calipers at the wheels.

An option is to always either flatten a tire, or remove a brake pad, but there has to be a better wa



QUOTE=wesmamyke;20856831]There is a quick release built into the hydraulic rim brakes, it's just barely in the picture posted. The right side caliper has a lever pointing up, flip that 180 degrees and the whole caliper is free to move. The booster will release also, one side is just sitting over the head of the bolt and will slip off.[/QUOTE]

Thanks I figured out about the lever for the brakes release .......going for my first good ride on this new to me bike tomorrow.
coffeesnob is offline  
Old 03-28-19, 10:35 AM
  #18  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
For Clifford , They're still in production .. Magura HS 33
there is a lower cost HS 22 and HS 11 also .. lever different wheel pistons the same..

I've had them on my bike for a decade + ..




QR lever on right side , seen on Rear...
fietsbob is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Trevtassie
Touring
27
05-08-17 10:07 PM
ChuckHubbert
Bicycle Mechanics
2
05-18-13 08:19 PM
Greg T
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
3
09-21-12 11:27 AM
techman
Bicycle Mechanics
2
04-17-11 07:28 PM
AceH
General Cycling Discussion
4
05-18-10 02:17 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.