Airwings seat post
#1
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Airwings seat post
Does the collar on this seat post (red arrow) adjust? I need for the post to go down a little bit as it's a little high for me but I don't know how to move the collar or, if it is even an option. Thanks
#2
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Is that some kind of a suspension post?
There are brands of adjustable posts, but I don't think that is one.
I don't think that collar is designed to be moved, and taking it off could cause a mess.
How far does it have to go down? You may be able to remove the quick release band, and lower that slightly by cutting the frame. 1/2cm? 1cm?
But, I'd probably hunt for a different post.
There are brands of adjustable posts, but I don't think that is one.
I don't think that collar is designed to be moved, and taking it off could cause a mess.
How far does it have to go down? You may be able to remove the quick release band, and lower that slightly by cutting the frame. 1/2cm? 1cm?
But, I'd probably hunt for a different post.
#3
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Does not look like it . I think I see it butting (flaring wider) against the Top of the seat tube..
#4
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Oh... looked it up.
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
I wouldn't mess with that set screw, unless you absolutely need to open the post for maintenance.
It looks like there are a couple of versions.
The Airwing 360 has about 50mm of suspension travel.
The Airwing 320 has about 35mm of suspension travel.
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
I wouldn't mess with that set screw, unless you absolutely need to open the post for maintenance.
It looks like there are a couple of versions.
The Airwing 360 has about 50mm of suspension travel.
The Airwing 320 has about 35mm of suspension travel.
#5
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Thread Starter
Is that some kind of a suspension post?
There are brands of adjustable posts, but I don't think that is one.
I don't think that collar is designed to be moved, and taking it off could cause a mess.
How far does it have to go down? You may be able to remove the quick release band, and lower that slightly by cutting the frame. 1/2cm? 1cm?
But, I'd probably hunt for a different post.
There are brands of adjustable posts, but I don't think that is one.
I don't think that collar is designed to be moved, and taking it off could cause a mess.
How far does it have to go down? You may be able to remove the quick release band, and lower that slightly by cutting the frame. 1/2cm? 1cm?
But, I'd probably hunt for a different post.
#6
Banned
Air Wings is German, as are the Magura Brakes , also shown..
My Koga WTR came with an Air Wings Tour model seat post , Zero Setback (found a picture)
so I got a Cane Creek Thudbuster ST.. for more setback..
saddle rail to top of seat tube is about 11cm in my case ... think 10cm is the lowest possible ..
before looking for low profile saddles.. so rail to top of saddle is less...
....
'
My Koga WTR came with an Air Wings Tour model seat post , Zero Setback (found a picture)
so I got a Cane Creek Thudbuster ST.. for more setback..
saddle rail to top of seat tube is about 11cm in my case ... think 10cm is the lowest possible ..
before looking for low profile saddles.. so rail to top of saddle is less...
....
'
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-24-19 at 03:13 PM.
#7
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Oh... looked it up.
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
I wouldn't mess with that set screw, unless you absolutely need to open the post for maintenance.
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
I wouldn't mess with that set screw, unless you absolutely need to open the post for maintenance.
It can be removed to grease but won't help your problem.
Last edited by dedhed; 03-24-19 at 03:02 PM.
#8
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Thread Starter
While the drawing doesn't show it, I believe the "set screw" to be #6 - the grease nipple as shown here.https://www.airwings-systems.de/technologie.html
It can be removed to grease but won't help your problem.
It can be removed to grease but won't help your problem.
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But, cutting the seatpost?
That might work.
How is the top of the post held in place?
I think you risk the whole thing falling apart when you're riding if not done right.
If I was you, I'd keep that post for a different bike, and start hunting for a more appropriate seatpost.
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Hnmmm... Another "adjustment".
What length are your cranks? Could you change from say 175mm to 170mm? That would in effect move your seat up about 5mm or so.
Also you could look for thicker pedals for a little more effective height.
What length are your cranks? Could you change from say 175mm to 170mm? That would in effect move your seat up about 5mm or so.
Also you could look for thicker pedals for a little more effective height.
#11
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As you said I'd see how the actual seat clamp mounts to the shaft on top and think about shortening it on that end. Might be a simple as a set screw.
Doing it at the bottom would be a can of worms. It looks like you possibly could shorten #9 but I'm guessing you would need to cut a groove for the #12 circlip. You'd also have to make sure you didn't remove too much to have it bottom out. Plus you'd have to deal with all that ball cage stuff, seals in addition to all the parts above the air chamber like #15-16 et al. Your chances of ruining it are pretty good. .
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
Doing it at the bottom would be a can of worms. It looks like you possibly could shorten #9 but I'm guessing you would need to cut a groove for the #12 circlip. You'd also have to make sure you didn't remove too much to have it bottom out. Plus you'd have to deal with all that ball cage stuff, seals in addition to all the parts above the air chamber like #15-16 et al. Your chances of ruining it are pretty good. .
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
#12
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Thread Starter
As you said I'd see how the actual seat clamp mounts to the shaft on top and think about shortening it on that end. Might be a simple as a set screw.
Doing it at the bottom would be a can of worms. It looks like you possibly could shorten #9 but I'm guessing you would need to cut a groove for the #12 circlip. You'd also have to make sure you didn't remove too much to have it bottom out. Plus you'd have to deal with all that ball cage stuff, seals in addition to all the parts above the air chamber like #15-16 et al. Your chances of ruining it are pretty good. .
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
Doing it at the bottom would be a can of worms. It looks like you possibly could shorten #9 but I'm guessing you would need to cut a groove for the #12 circlip. You'd also have to make sure you didn't remove too much to have it bottom out. Plus you'd have to deal with all that ball cage stuff, seals in addition to all the parts above the air chamber like #15-16 et al. Your chances of ruining it are pretty good. .
https://www.airwings-systems.de/air.html
I think I could cut the end off on the seat side and not ruin it. It's just a simple cut
#13
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I've got new pedals coming in. Im not going to change the cranks
#14
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One more question for anyone that knows. How do I release those rim brakes so I can take the rims off. I'm used to just squeezing them and releasing the cable.
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How about some better photos of the brake levers at the handlebars and the brake calipers at the wheels.
An option is to always either flatten a tire, or remove a brake pad, but there has to be a better way.
#16
Senior Member
There is a quick release built into the hydraulic rim brakes, it's just barely in the picture posted. The right side caliper has a lever pointing up, flip that 180 degrees and the whole caliper is free to move. The booster will release also, one side is just sitting over the head of the bolt and will slip off.
#17
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Thread Starter
[Are those hydraulic rim brakes?
How about some better photos of the brake levers at the handlebars and the brake calipers at the wheels.
An option is to always either flatten a tire, or remove a brake pad, but there has to be a better wa
QUOTE=wesmamyke;20856831]There is a quick release built into the hydraulic rim brakes, it's just barely in the picture posted. The right side caliper has a lever pointing up, flip that 180 degrees and the whole caliper is free to move. The booster will release also, one side is just sitting over the head of the bolt and will slip off.[/QUOTE]
Thanks I figured out about the lever for the brakes release .......going for my first good ride on this new to me bike tomorrow.
How about some better photos of the brake levers at the handlebars and the brake calipers at the wheels.
An option is to always either flatten a tire, or remove a brake pad, but there has to be a better wa
QUOTE=wesmamyke;20856831]There is a quick release built into the hydraulic rim brakes, it's just barely in the picture posted. The right side caliper has a lever pointing up, flip that 180 degrees and the whole caliper is free to move. The booster will release also, one side is just sitting over the head of the bolt and will slip off.[/QUOTE]
Thanks I figured out about the lever for the brakes release .......going for my first good ride on this new to me bike tomorrow.
#18
Banned
For Clifford , They're still in production .. Magura HS 33
there is a lower cost HS 22 and HS 11 also .. lever different wheel pistons the same..
I've had them on my bike for a decade + ..
QR lever on right side , seen on Rear...
there is a lower cost HS 22 and HS 11 also .. lever different wheel pistons the same..
I've had them on my bike for a decade + ..
QR lever on right side , seen on Rear...