Toadmeister

Wife’s bike I assembled after shipping to our home, got everything pretty well ironed out but this one item bugs me as I’m a little obsessive compulsive

SRAM rival 1 brake levers, mechanical. Spyre C mechanical disks.

see per pic, I can almost pull the lever all they way to the bars. Brakes actually work fine gripping rotor. . How can I adjust this so the “throw” of the lever is shorter and further away?

Crankycrank

I'm guessing you just need to set the pads closer. 2 options here starting at 3:40 mins. Also gives you full setup info from the beginning if the pads aren't even. https://www.google.com/search?q=spyr...uotQX7i7SoCg34

HillRider

Are the brakes and brake levers compatible? Road disc brakes use "short pull" levers like caliper and cantilever brakes. MTB disc brakes require "long pull" levers like V-brakes. If you have short pull levers but your brakes are designed for long pull levers you will get just what you are experiencing.

bikeaddiction1

I have Rival 1 with hydraulic brakes, so I am not sure yours will be the same. On mine there is an allen screw under the brake lever that adjusts the throw of the lever and allows you to move it closer to the bar for short hands. After this you also need to adjust the throw on the inside (left side) of the shift lever so it does not rub on the brake lever.
If your is the same, but with mechanical brakes you may still need to adjust them as Crankycrank suggested above.

Trevtassie

Spyres. After checking the pads aren't worn out of course....First thing to check. When you start moving the lever does the lever on the caliper start moving straight away? If so all good, if not, tighten the cable. If the caliper lever moves more than about 8mm or so before the brakes bite (which it probably will) then the pads should be adjusted. You'll need a reasonably long 3mm allen key (to get through the spokes on the wheel side of the caliper) . Adjust each side evenly until the pads just touch the discs then back off a little bit. The adjustment is fairly coarse so just small fractions of a turn will do the trick. If you want to be fancy center the caliper. Loosen the the 2 caliper bolts a bit, squeeze the brake levers and then tighten the bolts while holding the lever. Check and re-adjust the pads if there any drag. If you really want to be fancy you can reset the centering completely. Loosen the mounting bolts until the caliper can just move. Screw the pad adjusters all the way out. Then screw them in equally bit by bit until they touch the disc. Squeeze the lever and tighten the mounting bolts. Then adjust the pads out until they don't drag. Looking down on the pads and disc, when you squeeze the lever, make sure the disc isn't pushed one way or the other by the pads. If it is, recenter it again, each time the adjustment will be less and less.

SalsaShark

Once you get everything adjusted ideally, if the brakes still feel spongy, a good compressionless housing will improve the feel and power, especially on a setup with a full cable housing run from lever to caliper.

Toadmeister

I know what your talking about as I had the hood covers off, I’ll cHeck that out.

Toadmeister

yes, compatable.. This is a stock Setup of a Kona Rove ST.

Toadmeister

i actually don’t know what a compressionless housing is! I’ll research it tho, thanks.

Toadmeister

did this the other day and it all helped but I didn’t try your fancy way, Thanks!

bikeaddiction1

On the hydraulic version these are visible from below and you don't need to peel the hoods back.