Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#1401
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With Campy Ergo, I've used:
The "good" Jagwire set that came with everything, from PBK. Excellent.
The "other" Jagwire set that came with everything except brake cables, from China. Works fine.
The cheap set from PBK, no brand name, that came with everything. Works fine.
For a Mondonico, I think I'd get the "good" Jagwire like the one PBK sells.
Peace of mind for another $15-$20
The "good" Jagwire set that came with everything, from PBK. Excellent.
The "other" Jagwire set that came with everything except brake cables, from China. Works fine.
The cheap set from PBK, no brand name, that came with everything. Works fine.
For a Mondonico, I think I'd get the "good" Jagwire like the one PBK sells.
Peace of mind for another $15-$20
#1402
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With Campy Ergo, I've used:
The "good" Jagwire set that came with everything, from PBK. Excellent.
The "other" Jagwire set that came with everything except brake cables, from China. Works fine.
The cheap set from PBK, no brand name, that came with everything. Works fine.
For a Mondonico, I think I'd get the "good" Jagwire like the one PBK sells.
Peace of mind for another $15-$20
The "good" Jagwire set that came with everything, from PBK. Excellent.
The "other" Jagwire set that came with everything except brake cables, from China. Works fine.
The cheap set from PBK, no brand name, that came with everything. Works fine.
For a Mondonico, I think I'd get the "good" Jagwire like the one PBK sells.
Peace of mind for another $15-$20
#1403
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My Jagwire Campy cable/housing kit is at least 3 years old, maybe 4. Back when it came in a box, with instructions, the whole deal.
I'm running 8-sp Ergos with one of those Chinese $11 Jagwire cable/housing kits, but I'm using Jagwire teflon cables, Campy spec'd.
I've also run 8-sp Ergos with the cheaper PBK kit, in the Campy silver/grey, and it worked fine. That was with the included cables.
I generally use the leftover cables for flips and the bikes of people I race against.
#1404
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#1407
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Hey, thanks for the info.
My Jagwire Campy cable/housing kit is at least 3 years old, maybe 4. Back when it came in a box, with instructions, the whole deal.
I'm running 8-sp Ergos with one of those Chinese $11 Jagwire cable/housing kits, but I'm using Jagwire teflon cables, Campy spec'd.
I've also run 8-sp Ergos with the cheaper PBK kit, in the Campy silver/grey, and it worked fine. That was with the included cables.
I generally use the leftover cables for flips and the bikes of people I race against.
My Jagwire Campy cable/housing kit is at least 3 years old, maybe 4. Back when it came in a box, with instructions, the whole deal.
I'm running 8-sp Ergos with one of those Chinese $11 Jagwire cable/housing kits, but I'm using Jagwire teflon cables, Campy spec'd.
I've also run 8-sp Ergos with the cheaper PBK kit, in the Campy silver/grey, and it worked fine. That was with the included cables.
I generally use the leftover cables for flips and the bikes of people I race against.
#1408
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A clever competitive strategy! I found out today (Mechanics Forum) the little cable end nubbins are a little bigger for Shimano than for Campy and Sram. So I should get a campy-compatible inner cable or gently file down whatever I do find. Forcing in a Shimano is not a good idea; they don't always come out. I don't think I need full cables; what happened is I frayed the clamp area at my rear mech, being too hasty assembling the cable clamp and installing the cable.
I just file down the shifter cables. None of the LBS here carry Campy cables.
Jake
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The Jagwire Racer kits used to have dual ended cables (Shimano/Campy), they are now Shimano/SRAM only.
Sometimes you will still get older stock from dealers (e.g. last white set I got from Niagara).
I find it is still a good deal to buy the Racer kit and a pair of Campy ended cables ($37-40 total) if you want colored cable.
If you want black, just use Campy cable kits ($35-40 from the UK).
As Jake pointed out you can easily file the Shimano ends as well if you like...
Sometimes you will still get older stock from dealers (e.g. last white set I got from Niagara).
I find it is still a good deal to buy the Racer kit and a pair of Campy ended cables ($37-40 total) if you want colored cable.
If you want black, just use Campy cable kits ($35-40 from the UK).
As Jake pointed out you can easily file the Shimano ends as well if you like...
#1410
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#1411
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Heya,
My frame has just a three digit number on the bb 772, it also has campag dropouts. More pics here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/58891767@N06/
My frame has just a three digit number on the bb 772, it also has campag dropouts. More pics here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/58891767@N06/
#1414
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Gah. . . !
#1415
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Yes I used it on a Peugeot UO18. It was fairly easy, you just have to stop and measure frequently because moving the rear triangle 5mm on each side isn't easy to see and it doesn't take much effort. The method of wrapping the string from one dropout around the headtube to the other drop out worked really well. I took the bike to my LBS to have them make sure the drop outs were parallel. It only took the mechanic a couple of minutes to check it and move it back the smidge it was off. I don't think its recommended if you need to widen it more than 10mm, at least not as a diy project.
Last edited by Ground Hog; 04-12-11 at 06:40 PM. Reason: typo
#1416
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This is my 1983 Trek 600. It was passed on to me by my dad, it has the 3 tone fade when he bought the frame in '89. It had been built up with Shimano 600/Sante components.
Last fall my wife just happened to stumble on an online add for Veloswap Denver, it was then that I decided the old trek was due for an update.
Most of the drivetrain is Ultegra, the chain is KMC k10sl, cables are Gore Ride On, saddle is a bargain bin Orbea take off, wheels are Open Pro's laced with DT spokes on Ultegra hubs, pedals are Eggbeater 2's, the crank is a Sugino 46t touring (thats the next part to meet the parts bin in the sky). I had the frame bead-blasted and powdercoated at a place here in Denver (Its just a coincidence that the color matches my helmet perfectly).
Last fall my wife just happened to stumble on an online add for Veloswap Denver, it was then that I decided the old trek was due for an update.
Most of the drivetrain is Ultegra, the chain is KMC k10sl, cables are Gore Ride On, saddle is a bargain bin Orbea take off, wheels are Open Pro's laced with DT spokes on Ultegra hubs, pedals are Eggbeater 2's, the crank is a Sugino 46t touring (thats the next part to meet the parts bin in the sky). I had the frame bead-blasted and powdercoated at a place here in Denver (Its just a coincidence that the color matches my helmet perfectly).
#1417
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These are the most recent shots I have. The saddle, brakes, levers, and dura-ace bar ends are all new(I realize they're not brifters), and the suntour derailleurs/Sakai cranks are off an old Bianchi Strada. I have since shortened the cable housing on the rear derailleur to a normal length, polished all the aluminum, and switched to a new iPhone based computer system so I have fewer bits to remove when I chain the bike up(it's my commuter).
It's getting a new rear hub within the next few weeks, a sweet old Shimano 600 unit, and possibly the bolt-on weinmann front wheel that the bike wore when I got it.
#1419
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Sorry! I'm broke and the Dura-aces were like $40 new! Besides, they can run friction and that works better with my 12-speed drivetrain. Eventually I want to build up a good, high performance bike based on an old steel frame, but it's just not in the cards right now.
Besides, I got pulled over for passing a cop in a 30 MPH zone on that ratty old Schwinn! Getting my fat butt up to 34.2 MPH on a 30lb bike with 12 gears takes some doing and I rather like the current setup.
Besides, I got pulled over for passing a cop in a 30 MPH zone on that ratty old Schwinn! Getting my fat butt up to 34.2 MPH on a 30lb bike with 12 gears takes some doing and I rather like the current setup.
#1420
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Sorry! I'm broke and the Dura-aces were like $40 new! Besides, they can run friction and that works better with my 12-speed drivetrain. Eventually I want to build up a good, high performance bike based on an old steel frame, but it's just not in the cards right now.
Besides, I got pulled over for passing a cop in a 30 MPH zone on that ratty old Schwinn! Getting my fat butt up to 34.2 MPH on a 30lb bike with 12 gears takes some doing and I rather like the current setup.
Besides, I got pulled over for passing a cop in a 30 MPH zone on that ratty old Schwinn! Getting my fat butt up to 34.2 MPH on a 30lb bike with 12 gears takes some doing and I rather like the current setup.
#1421
WV is not flat..
Holy Copy Cat Batman! You stole my bike Yes mine is not brifters or sti's either, but it was an awesome upgrade from the stem friction it had originally.
[QUOTE=BattleRabbit;12498477]
[QUOTE=BattleRabbit;12498477]
#1422
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Haha! That is very cool. It seems I am the only person with a Le Tour on here that has the OG stem though! I really love the casting of the factory stem on the bike and would be very hesitant to swap it out for anything else.
Mine's a year older than yours, and it seems they dropped the seattube striping for '82.
For bonus period correct coolness mine still has the stickers from the original retailer of the bike on the seat tube! Very cool to see other Le Tour owners on here. I love the frame, despite how heavy and flexy it is. It's just so pretty.
Mine's a year older than yours, and it seems they dropped the seattube striping for '82.
For bonus period correct coolness mine still has the stickers from the original retailer of the bike on the seat tube! Very cool to see other Le Tour owners on here. I love the frame, despite how heavy and flexy it is. It's just so pretty.
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