Spokes breaking repetitively
09-26-19, 09:42 PM
#26
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As I said in my post. I filed each side of the screwdriver blade until there was only a thin/narrow bit left that was small enough to fit inside the spoke nipple. The I filed that thin section until it'd release once the screwdriver turned the spoke nipple 4 times. What happens is that after 4 turns of the spoke nipple the spoke inside the nipple pushes the screwdriver/nipple driver out of the slot in the spoke nipple head. The other screwdriver/nipple drivers have different lengths of the narrow part that fits inside the spoke nipple. By varying those lengths I can control how many turns that driver makes before letting go. It makes it so easy to bring the wheel build to the final tensioning/trueing phase.
Cheers
Cheers
--|_|--
The center portion is pushed up by the spoke nipple after 4 turns and the outside gets no further purchase on the nipple to make it turn. Is this right?
09-26-19, 09:51 PM
#27
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Cheers
09-27-19, 07:43 AM
#28
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I presume this only works if your rim is pretty circular to begin with, not "out of whack." I don't see offhand why this would be better than just counting turns, say 4.
09-27-19, 08:19 AM
#29
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Cheers
12-13-19, 09:48 AM
#30
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I tried using the old wheel with SS spokes but when removing the quick release I found that the bearing races were pretty badly pitted. I suppose I can get new parts for it (races and bearings). I continued to roll on the old wheel and a couple weeks ago had two more broken spokes, as usual on the freewheel side of the wheel. Had a nasty time replacing those two spokes (with used spokes I have) and decided to order that cheap Wheel Master single wall (but stainless steel spoked) rear quick release off Amazon and received it a few days ago. Mostly good reviews, but everyone says it typically comes with the cones cinched up too tight and usually with not enough bearing grease. I opened it up, put in around a cubic centimeter more bearing grease in each side and adjusted it to where to me it seems perfect. Haven't installed it yet, will over the next couple days using my old freewheel and chain.
I've been having a very tough time getting the rear wheel to sit centered for the last couple years. My bike mechanic, when I brought it to him, said the rear axle was broken, he replaced it, and I suppose that fixed it, but the other day if I got the tire in the middle between the chain stays, the tire would rub against the starboard brake pad (single pivot side-pull caliper brake). Finally got it working, but still, on top by the brake mechanism the tire is too far to the left (starboard). Have always had this problem with this bike. Maybe with the new wheel it won't be like that. Maybe I need spacer(s) where the wheel sits?
I've been having a very tough time getting the rear wheel to sit centered for the last couple years. My bike mechanic, when I brought it to him, said the rear axle was broken, he replaced it, and I suppose that fixed it, but the other day if I got the tire in the middle between the chain stays, the tire would rub against the starboard brake pad (single pivot side-pull caliper brake). Finally got it working, but still, on top by the brake mechanism the tire is too far to the left (starboard). Have always had this problem with this bike. Maybe with the new wheel it won't be like that. Maybe I need spacer(s) where the wheel sits?
Last edited by dmusicant; 12-13-19 at 09:52 AM.
12-13-19, 12:45 PM
#31
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Try the new wheel?
12-13-19, 12:53 PM
#32
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I tried using the old wheel with SS spokes but when removing the quick release I found that the bearing races were pretty badly pitted. I suppose I can get new parts for it (races and bearings). I continued to roll on the old wheel and a couple weeks ago had two more broken spokes, as usual on the freewheel side of the wheel. Had a nasty time replacing those two spokes (with used spokes I have) and decided to order that cheap Wheel Master single wall (but stainless steel spoked) rear quick release off Amazon and received it a few days ago. Mostly good reviews, but everyone says it typically comes with the cones cinched up too tight and usually with not enough bearing grease. I opened it up, put in around a cubic centimeter more bearing grease in each side and adjusted it to where to me it seems perfect. Haven't installed it yet, will over the next couple days using my old freewheel and chain.
I've been having a very tough time getting the rear wheel to sit centered for the last couple years. My bike mechanic, when I brought it to him, said the rear axle was broken, he replaced it, and I suppose that fixed it, but the other day if I got the tire in the middle between the chain stays, the tire would rub against the starboard brake pad (single pivot side-pull caliper brake). Finally got it working, but still, on top by the brake mechanism the tire is too far to the left (starboard). Have always had this problem with this bike. Maybe with the new wheel it won't be like that. Maybe I need spacer(s) where the wheel sits?
I've been having a very tough time getting the rear wheel to sit centered for the last couple years. My bike mechanic, when I brought it to him, said the rear axle was broken, he replaced it, and I suppose that fixed it, but the other day if I got the tire in the middle between the chain stays, the tire would rub against the starboard brake pad (single pivot side-pull caliper brake). Finally got it working, but still, on top by the brake mechanism the tire is too far to the left (starboard). Have always had this problem with this bike. Maybe with the new wheel it won't be like that. Maybe I need spacer(s) where the wheel sits?
12-13-19, 12:59 PM
#33
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You don't need a chain wear gage - you only need a 12" ruler. Measure from the centre of one pin on the bottom run of chain to the centre of the pin closest to 12" along. If the chain is more than ~1/16" 'stretched' over 12" then it is likely worn to the point that a new chain will not mesh properly with your old cogs.
You don't need a chain wear gage - you only need a 12" ruler. Measure from the centre of one pin on the bottom run of chain to the centre of the pin closest to 12" along. If the chain is more than ~1/16" 'stretched' over 12" then it is likely worn to the point that a new chain will not mesh properly with your old cogs.
What you car about is how far the pins of the stretched chain are apart. Your teeth wear to that dimension, Poor chain gauges measure that AND the slop in the rollers which matters zero to tooth wear. (All the rollers of the links on a cog or chainring flop the same direction. How much doesn't matter.)
Steel tape measures work really well, cost $12, are available anywhere and have all kinds of other uses.
Ben
12-13-19, 04:41 PM
#34
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Is your tire centered between both the chain stays and the seat stays?
It's quite common for a single pivot brake caliper to go a bit out of alignment. You can use a tool similar to a cone wrench to center a single pivot brake if it has flats on it. If the caliper does not have flats then you can center it by tapping one of the coils of the brake spring using a flat punch, a long bolt or even a screw driver and a small hammer or mallet.
Or you can read this old thread and try some of the hints in it.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...-calipers.html
Cheers
It's quite common for a single pivot brake caliper to go a bit out of alignment. You can use a tool similar to a cone wrench to center a single pivot brake if it has flats on it. If the caliper does not have flats then you can center it by tapping one of the coils of the brake spring using a flat punch, a long bolt or even a screw driver and a small hammer or mallet.
Or you can read this old thread and try some of the hints in it.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...-calipers.html
Cheers
12-19-19, 06:49 PM
#35
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Few days ago I installed that new Wheel Master single wall SS spoked QR rear wheel using my old freewheel and chain (cleaning them during the swap). Fantastic so far. Great thing about this is that it fit perfectly... my last wheel AFAIK never did fit right, I'd have a tough time getting the wheel to clear the brake pads. Even more exciting, my indexed shifting is working now whereas the last 1/2 year or so it would skip a cog or not change at all. Had to add some grease and adjust the bearings, not a big deal, before installing. Haven't checked the spoke tensions (I AM CURIOUS!), but I don't see much wobble to start with.
