Vibration felt through pedals. Mostly on the bottom sprockets
#1
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Thread Starter
Vibration felt through pedals. Mostly on the bottom sprockets
Trying to find why I'm getting vibration through my pedals. Not happening all the time. Mostly under load and on the bottom 4 sprockets.
Newer bike so new chain cassette and derailleurs. Chain rings are used but in good condition and tightened correctly. Bikes aluminum. 11 speed 105. Bb30. Finally no tire rub anywhere
Where should I continue my search?
Thanks
Newer bike so new chain cassette and derailleurs. Chain rings are used but in good condition and tightened correctly. Bikes aluminum. 11 speed 105. Bb30. Finally no tire rub anywhere
Where should I continue my search?
Thanks
#2
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Is the chain lubricated? New does not mean properly lubricated. Easiest place to start.
#3
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By "bottom" do you mean the 4 smallest? Probably chordal action: 2.2.1 Chordal Action
#5
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The bottom bracket bearings might be over-tightened to the point the bearing cartridges are impinged by compression. That will create roughness and wear them out quickly. This especially pertains to cartridge style square tapered BBs.
#6
Senior Member
Square taper BBs are installed such that you can't overload the bearings.
#7
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One thing I do remeber is that I rode over some rough pavement before I noticed the vibration. Don't know if it's just coincidence, a part of the road was getting repaved and was already dug up. I didn't want to turn back and continued for about 1km. The road wasn't that bad but worse then anything I ride in.
#8
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By "bottom" do you mean the 4 smallest? Probably chordal action: 2.2.1 Chordal Action
#9
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Thanks I think I feel vibration while coasting also. Hard to tell as not as bad. Do I just check the hub for play then? It's a DA hub.
How would I tell?
One thing I do remeber is that I rode over some rough pavement before I noticed the vibration. Don't know if it's just coincidence, a part of the road was getting repaved and was already dug up. I didn't want to turn back and continued for about 1km. The road wasn't that bad but worse then anything I ride in.
How would I tell?
One thing I do remeber is that I rode over some rough pavement before I noticed the vibration. Don't know if it's just coincidence, a part of the road was getting repaved and was already dug up. I didn't want to turn back and continued for about 1km. The road wasn't that bad but worse then anything I ride in.
#10
Junior Member
Thanks I think I feel vibration while coasting also. Hard to tell as not as bad. Do I just check the hub for play then? It's a DA hub.
How would I tell?
One thing I do remeber is that I rode over some rough pavement before I noticed the vibration. Don't know if it's just coincidence, a part of the road was getting repaved and was already dug up. I didn't want to turn back and continued for about 1km. The road wasn't that bad but worse then anything I ride in.
How would I tell?
One thing I do remeber is that I rode over some rough pavement before I noticed the vibration. Don't know if it's just coincidence, a part of the road was getting repaved and was already dug up. I didn't want to turn back and continued for about 1km. The road wasn't that bad but worse then anything I ride in.
There most likely is a YouTube video on how to replace bearings in a Dura Ace hub....it's far far far from rocket science.
#11
Senior Member
If the bottom bracket has rust in it, is worn out, or is over-tightened you can feel a "grittiness" travel through the crank arms. On a repair stand if you spin the crank slowly by hand while keeping your hand on the crank arm you'll feel the grittiness. If that's the case then you have to remove the crank arms and loosen the bottom bearing cups a bit. That requires two special tools: a crank-arm remover tool (the Dura Ace crank arms might have a self-loosening feature if there are two small holes on either side of the crank arm bolt cap. This type of crank arm doesn't require a special removal tool) and a bottom bracket cup tool. The cup on the drive side of the bottom bracket has threads that go contrary to ordinary threads, so a clockwise movement will loosen them. The non-drive threads are normal, so a counter-clockwise movement will loosen them. Bottom bracket cups should be adequately tight but shouldn't be over-tightened. Don't yank on the wrench like a damn gorilla when tightening them.
It's possible the rear wheel hub has too much play or needs repacking. You lift the rear of your bike and spin the wheel by hand slowly without letting go while checking for a grittiness feeling. Also try wiggling the wheel from side to side. If there's noticeable lateral play in the bearing it needs to be tightened, and could probably use grease repacking at the same time. This job requires special tools: wheel cone wrenches.
A third possibility is your pedal bearings are worn, dirty, and need attention. If you spin the crank backwards slowly you might feel grittiness in those bearings if you keep your fingers on the pedal spindle. Some pedal bearings can be disassembled, cleaned, and repacked with grease.
A forth possibility is your chain is rusted, is threaded through the derailleur incorrectly, or the derailleur jockey-wheel bearings are messed up.
It's possible the rear wheel hub has too much play or needs repacking. You lift the rear of your bike and spin the wheel by hand slowly without letting go while checking for a grittiness feeling. Also try wiggling the wheel from side to side. If there's noticeable lateral play in the bearing it needs to be tightened, and could probably use grease repacking at the same time. This job requires special tools: wheel cone wrenches.
A third possibility is your pedal bearings are worn, dirty, and need attention. If you spin the crank backwards slowly you might feel grittiness in those bearings if you keep your fingers on the pedal spindle. Some pedal bearings can be disassembled, cleaned, and repacked with grease.
A forth possibility is your chain is rusted, is threaded through the derailleur incorrectly, or the derailleur jockey-wheel bearings are messed up.
Last edited by Clem von Jones; 09-23-19 at 09:14 PM.
#12
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Is your rear derailleur properly adjusted? Sometimes being very slightly out of adjustment isn't noticeable until a load is put on the drivetrain like when riding up a hill. Then that slight out of adjustment manifests itself.
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#13
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I haven't posted in a while because I thought the vibration was getting better and was hoping it would go away. However it's back and annoying as ever.
I tried my other wheels to see if that was the problem. Still vibrating with a new wheels.
I also readjusted the rear derailleur. Made sure the limit screws are in line and it's properly indexed. Still vibrating.
I just pulled the crank off and do see some marks on the spindle. Are these normal? Could this be the problem? The spindle and bottom bracket have less then 1000km on them. The bearings seem to be spinning good.
I tried my other wheels to see if that was the problem. Still vibrating with a new wheels.
I also readjusted the rear derailleur. Made sure the limit screws are in line and it's properly indexed. Still vibrating.
I just pulled the crank off and do see some marks on the spindle. Are these normal? Could this be the problem? The spindle and bottom bracket have less then 1000km on them. The bearings seem to be spinning good.
#15
Junior Member
I haven't posted in a while because I thought the vibration was getting better and was hoping it would go away. However it's back and annoying as ever.
I tried my other wheels to see if that was the problem. Still vibrating with a new wheels.
I also readjusted the rear derailleur. Made sure the limit screws are in line and it's properly indexed. Still vibrating.
I just pulled the crank off and do see some marks on the spindle. Are these normal? Could this be the problem? The spindle and bottom bracket have less then 1000km on them. The bearings seem to be spinning good.
I tried my other wheels to see if that was the problem. Still vibrating with a new wheels.
I also readjusted the rear derailleur. Made sure the limit screws are in line and it's properly indexed. Still vibrating.
I just pulled the crank off and do see some marks on the spindle. Are these normal? Could this be the problem? The spindle and bottom bracket have less then 1000km on them. The bearings seem to be spinning good.
A good chain lube is Dupont Chain Saver wax-based chain lube.
#16
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Lessen the chain wrap at the rear cassette. See if that makes a difference.
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#18
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A vibration limited to the smaller rear sprockets is usually caused by something called chordal action.
It's a common and well documented effect in chain drives using small sprockets. It's not broken or fixable, simply an inherent property of the system. That said, better chain lubes help dampen it.
It's a common and well documented effect in chain drives using small sprockets. It's not broken or fixable, simply an inherent property of the system. That said, better chain lubes help dampen it.
#20
Newbie
A vibration limited to the smaller rear sprockets is usually caused by something called chordal action.
It's a common and well documented effect in chain drives using small sprockets. It's not broken or fixable, simply an inherent property of the system. That said, better chain lubes help dampen it.
It's a common and well documented effect in chain drives using small sprockets. It's not broken or fixable, simply an inherent property of the system. That said, better chain lubes help dampen it.