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When not to rebuild wheels from an old hub?

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When not to rebuild wheels from an old hub?

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Old 10-11-19, 06:57 AM
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crandress 
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When not to rebuild wheels from an old hub?

I have been looking for a set of hubs to build a set of wheels, which I have not done before. I try to look for perfect spoke holes, but that is pretty elusive. You typically see the indent from the spokes and maybe a slight widening of the holes. How much of that is too much? I am a heavy rider as well, so that will put additional stress on the wheels. Are there examples of hubs you would use and hubs you would not? Thanks! Chris
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Old 10-11-19, 07:01 AM
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As long as the cups and cones look good and the indents look OK, I'd build around an old hub.

I prefer 36 over 32 hole since it builds a stouter wheel.
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Old 10-11-19, 07:07 AM
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I bought some 32 hole wheels that just did not seem sturdy enough, so I always look for 36 hole, but will likely have someone else do the build, there is a local guy or will drive up to the Yellow Jersey. I just don't want to buys some hubs and have them tell me it is not usable. Looking for high flange Tipo hubs with 126mm spacing in the rear. Though I may go with some record hubs I have that look good. May be silly, but I want the round holes for a more vintage look for my Terrot.
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Old 10-11-19, 07:08 AM
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As an aside, building a workbench this weekend to make it easier to work on my projects this winter.
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Old 10-11-19, 07:23 AM
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I have only done two DA and an Ultegra well used hub sets and found Shimano's nice thick flanges with obvious grooves the spokes had left in the hubs. These indents were not a problem with Sapin and DT Swiss spokes which when installed pulled the spoke elbow up against the hubs, I would not want them loose or have to look at washers for the spoke heads.
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Old 10-11-19, 07:32 AM
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Maillard or Normandy high flange hubs would also be a good choice for that bike and more readily available. Tipo hubs are pretty though. You likely could find a used set fairly easily but they would likely lack a hooked rim.
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Old 10-11-19, 08:31 AM
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Most of my rear wheels were built with used hubs, and I think their long-term prospects are great!

You’ve probably read this already, but you should lace up used hubs with the spokes going the same directions they did before. Doing otherwise increases the risk of cracking the hub flanges later on.
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Old 10-11-19, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
Most of my rear wheels were built with used hubs, and I think their long-term prospects are great!

You’ve probably read this already, but you should lace up used hubs with the spokes going the same directions they did before. Doing otherwise increases the risk of cracking the hub flanges later on.
Thanks! I will likely pay someone else to build it, so I will hope they do it properly. Can't imagine the Yellow Jersey would mess it up.
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Old 10-11-19, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Maillard or Normandy high flange hubs would also be a good choice for that bike and more readily available. Tipo hubs are pretty though. You likely could find a used set fairly easily but they would likely lack a hooked rim.
hooked rim? Sadly I have no idea what that means. What am I looking for and would my record hubs be ok?
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Old 10-11-19, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by crandress
hooked rim? Sadly I have no idea what that means. What am I looking for and would my record hubs be ok?
If you are building new wheels, this is a non-issue as they are all I believe hooked. This allows you to pump up tires up to their rating without fear of a blow out. With non-hooked clincher rims which were the norm back in the day, you will need to tire with a wire bead and not pump the tire up much past 70 PSI or so. Not a big deal but it is something to take into account if buying a used wheelset. There are lots very decent 27 inch 120 OLD wheelsets floating around that you can pick up. Heck I have a set I am not using which was original equipment on an early 70s Motobecane Grand Record.

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ooked-rim.html
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Old 10-11-19, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
If you are building new wheels, this is a non-issue as they are all I believe hooked. This allows you to pump up tires up to their rating without fear of a blow out. With non-hooked clincher rims which were the norm back in the day, you will need to tire with a wire bead and not pump the tire up much past 70 PSI or so. Not a big deal but it is something to take into account if buying a used wheelset. There are lots very decent 27 inch 120 OLD wheelsets floating around that you can pick up. Heck I have a set I am not using which was original equipment on an early 70s Motobecane Grand Record.

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ooked-rim.html
I think I misunderstood, you referenced Tipo, so I thought you were talking about the something on the hubs. I do understand about rims. I actually have a set of rims to use, just need the hubs. I have record hubs I can use, I just wanted the round holes. I think I am probably overthinking it. I bought some Velo Orange rims that have a vintage look, but could to up to 38mm for the tires. Actually thought about their hubs as well as they have the look, but are a little expensive.
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Old 10-11-19, 09:23 AM
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Tough to beat record hubs and VO rims . . . .
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Old 10-11-19, 09:32 AM
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As long as the person who builds the wheels goes with the existing indents, you'll probably be fine. The only time I've had a hub fail was when I tried to switch the spoke directions from what it had been built up with before. It was also my only wheelset built using an Ofmega hub - fwiw.
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Old 10-11-19, 11:18 AM
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I've done it numerous times with hubs that had been built up before (mostly low-flange Campy Record) and never worried about indents or how the hub had been previously laced. I was a bit careful to find hubs without a ton of markings. And I always polished the hubs before lacing 'em. My biggest worry in buying old hubs is the races, not the spoke holes. Never had a hub or wheel fail.
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