Double vs. Tripple front chainring?
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Double vs. Tripple front chainring?
What are the pros/cons of a double vs. a tripple? As a brand new road biker coming from XC, should I get a tripple or a double? Is it personal taste?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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It usually depends on your level of fitness and if your knees are in good shape. A triple allows you to spin a faster cadence on hills, which is easier on the knees. At least it is on mine.
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Originally Posted by Dchiefransom
It usually depends on your level of fitness and if your knees are in good shape. A triple allows you to spin a faster cadence on hills, which is easier on the knees. At least it is on mine.
Well, right in part.
If you are a high cadence rider, even a pretty strong one, and prefer to sit and spin on hills, a triple would be nice especially if you are in an area with long climbs.
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Originally Posted by JasBike
What are the pros/cons of a double vs. a tripple? As a brand new road biker coming from XC, should I get a tripple or a double? Is it personal taste?
Thanks.
Thanks.
The difference in weight is neglible. Think of the third ring as a bail-out gear, there when the hill gets a lot steeper than you thought.
On my old Trek Navigator, it had a triple, but I rarely used the smallest ring. On my new roadie, I have used it almost everytime out, mainly because I am taking on more hills. If I didn't have it, there are quite a few times I'd have been walking!
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the problem with a triple is that it can be very difficult to tune your shifting for two reasons: (1) the long throw of the front derailleur compromises the chainline, (2) the long cage of the rear derailleur and the extra chain makes for sloppy rear shifting.
triple advocates [usually people who bought triples and want to be validated by your choice] claim that the shifting on a properly tuned triple is "just fine." the problems are that it will never be better than "just fine" -- not "crisp" and "amazing" -- and that it is quite difficult to get a triple properly tuned. a lot of bike shop mechanics don't know how to tune a triple, and those who do frankly can't stand doing it, it's such a bother.
if you need a low gear, you have two better options. the simple one is to just get a cassette with a bigger gear. a standard shimano rear dereilleur can handle a 12-27 cassette, and the 39x27 combination gives you all but two of the lowest gears you'd get with a stock triple with a 12-25 cassette. this will probably cost nothing at the time you buy your bike... maybe $30 as a later modification.
the other option, as racerx points out, is a compact crankset. this is becoming a popular option, since few recreational rider -- even pros -- ever use the 53x12. a 34/50 crankset with a standard 12-27 cassette will give you about all the low gears you need to climb the alps without sacrificing shifting performance.
triple advocates [usually people who bought triples and want to be validated by your choice] claim that the shifting on a properly tuned triple is "just fine." the problems are that it will never be better than "just fine" -- not "crisp" and "amazing" -- and that it is quite difficult to get a triple properly tuned. a lot of bike shop mechanics don't know how to tune a triple, and those who do frankly can't stand doing it, it's such a bother.
if you need a low gear, you have two better options. the simple one is to just get a cassette with a bigger gear. a standard shimano rear dereilleur can handle a 12-27 cassette, and the 39x27 combination gives you all but two of the lowest gears you'd get with a stock triple with a 12-25 cassette. this will probably cost nothing at the time you buy your bike... maybe $30 as a later modification.
the other option, as racerx points out, is a compact crankset. this is becoming a popular option, since few recreational rider -- even pros -- ever use the 53x12. a 34/50 crankset with a standard 12-27 cassette will give you about all the low gears you need to climb the alps without sacrificing shifting performance.
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Originally Posted by velocipedio
the problem with a triple is that it can be very difficult to tune your shifting for two reasons: (1) the long throw of the front derailleur compromises the chainline, (2) the long cage of the rear derailleur and the extra chain makes for sloppy rear shifting.
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Well said ! Most road bikes are over geared . thanks to places like FSA, you can now enjoy wide gearing with only two rings (50/34) .
Originally Posted by velocipedio
the problem with a triple is that it can be very difficult to tune your shifting for two reasons: (1) the long throw of the front derailleur compromises the chainline, (2) the long cage of the rear derailleur and the extra chain makes for sloppy rear shifting.
triple advocates [usually people who bought triples and want to be validated by your choice] claim that the shifting on a properly tuned triple is "just fine." the problems are that it will never be better than "just fine" -- not "crisp" and "amazing" -- and that it is quite difficult to get a triple properly tuned. a lot of bike shop mechanics don't know how to tune a triple, and those who do frankly can't stand doing it, it's such a bother.
if you need a low gear, you have two better options. the simple one is to just get a cassette with a bigger gear. a standard shimano rear dereilleur can handle a 12-27 cassette, and the 39x27 combination gives you all but two of the lowest gears you'd get with a stock triple with a 12-25 cassette. this will probably cost nothing at the time you buy your bike... maybe $30 as a later modification.
the other option, as racerx points out, is a compact crankset. this is becoming a popular option, since few recreational rider -- even pros -- ever use the 53x12. a 34/50 crankset with a standard 12-27 cassette will give you about all the low gears you need to climb the alps without sacrificing shifting performance.
triple advocates [usually people who bought triples and want to be validated by your choice] claim that the shifting on a properly tuned triple is "just fine." the problems are that it will never be better than "just fine" -- not "crisp" and "amazing" -- and that it is quite difficult to get a triple properly tuned. a lot of bike shop mechanics don't know how to tune a triple, and those who do frankly can't stand doing it, it's such a bother.
if you need a low gear, you have two better options. the simple one is to just get a cassette with a bigger gear. a standard shimano rear dereilleur can handle a 12-27 cassette, and the 39x27 combination gives you all but two of the lowest gears you'd get with a stock triple with a 12-25 cassette. this will probably cost nothing at the time you buy your bike... maybe $30 as a later modification.
the other option, as racerx points out, is a compact crankset. this is becoming a popular option, since few recreational rider -- even pros -- ever use the 53x12. a 34/50 crankset with a standard 12-27 cassette will give you about all the low gears you need to climb the alps without sacrificing shifting performance.
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i dunno man..
velocipedio's post is surely accurate, but still.. the idea of having "all but the two lowest gears" of a triple still translates to more knee strain for me. my problem has always been overuse injuries and while i _can stand up and hammer, i try to avoid it because my knees are one of the few joints that hasn't given me any trouble to this point.
also, i think the lack of crispness in a triple is somewhat offset by the ability to ride a smaller cassette. i like having gears that are more like each other - less jump from gear to gear and more fine tuning ability - and while a really strong rider with a double can rock the smaller cassette and have the best of both worlds, i'm definitely more in the position where i'd have to do one or the other: big cassette with a double or corn-cob cassette with a triple.
again, i'm sure velo's comments are all accurate and reflect a lot more experience than i have, but i still tend to think doubles are for ppl who are really strong or live someplace really flat and triples are for regular folks. i also think an ultegra triple would be plenty crisp for me and if the shop boys don't like to tune it then that's their problem.
i am curious about the compact crankset though.
velocipedio's post is surely accurate, but still.. the idea of having "all but the two lowest gears" of a triple still translates to more knee strain for me. my problem has always been overuse injuries and while i _can stand up and hammer, i try to avoid it because my knees are one of the few joints that hasn't given me any trouble to this point.
also, i think the lack of crispness in a triple is somewhat offset by the ability to ride a smaller cassette. i like having gears that are more like each other - less jump from gear to gear and more fine tuning ability - and while a really strong rider with a double can rock the smaller cassette and have the best of both worlds, i'm definitely more in the position where i'd have to do one or the other: big cassette with a double or corn-cob cassette with a triple.
again, i'm sure velo's comments are all accurate and reflect a lot more experience than i have, but i still tend to think doubles are for ppl who are really strong or live someplace really flat and triples are for regular folks. i also think an ultegra triple would be plenty crisp for me and if the shop boys don't like to tune it then that's their problem.
i am curious about the compact crankset though.
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Originally Posted by boze
i am curious about the compact crankset though.
-murray
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Originally Posted by JasBike
What are the pros/cons of a double vs. a tripple? As a brand new road biker coming from XC, should I get a tripple or a double? Is it personal taste?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by velocipedio
the problem with a triple is that it can be very difficult to tune your shifting for two reasons: (1) the long throw of the front derailleur compromises the chainline, (2) the long cage of the rear derailleur and the extra chain makes for sloppy rear shifting.
triple advocates [usually people who bought triples and want to be validated by your choice] claim that the shifting on a properly tuned triple is "just fine."
a lot of bike shop mechanics don't know how to tune a triple, and those who do frankly can't stand doing it, it's such a bother.
You don't like a triple. That is fine. Some of us do and don't need "validation" from anyone or anything.
Last edited by TrekRider; 06-20-04 at 03:30 PM.
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Originally Posted by JasBike
What are the pros/cons of a double vs. a tripple? As a brand new road biker coming from XC, should I get a tripple or a double? Is it personal taste?
and I love that group. However, the Sora triple on my Bianchi shifts just about as well. I've had no trouble with it and I use the granny gear frequently on steep hills. I love being able to spin up steep hills. The Q-factor argument is bogus.
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Originally Posted by AeroDog
This will give the anti-triple crowd the vapors....
Want to really get people going? How about a Campy Triple versus a Shimano Double? Boy, that ought to bring 'em out of the woodwork!
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Road triple? I would if I was making a bike for touring, and going to have max weight.
Other, no. Me, touring, I'd just buy a few chairings and when I hit the mountains, swap out to like 32, 44.
I cut my granny of with bolt cutter cause I'm lazy, 2 snips and unbolt the ring.
No need to pull cranks.
Mtb are different, Road, being shorter, I'd just suck it up and buy ring counts that are good for me and the bike weight. A 52 is sick big to me, useless. A 34, 46 and I'd go up anything road. Maybe a 10t rear cog for some flatland speed.
A....I don't know squat about road gearing.
Just felt like typing..jef.
Other, no. Me, touring, I'd just buy a few chairings and when I hit the mountains, swap out to like 32, 44.
I cut my granny of with bolt cutter cause I'm lazy, 2 snips and unbolt the ring.
No need to pull cranks.
Mtb are different, Road, being shorter, I'd just suck it up and buy ring counts that are good for me and the bike weight. A 52 is sick big to me, useless. A 34, 46 and I'd go up anything road. Maybe a 10t rear cog for some flatland speed.
A....I don't know squat about road gearing.
Just felt like typing..jef.
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OK, I've got a question about Shimano front shifters. I ride a triple with Campy Record Ergo shifters. I counted 8 click stops on the front shifter going from the big chainring to the smallest. How many stops do you get with Shimano? Does Campy have a finer granularity in their shifter that makes it easier to trim the front derailleur?
I also wonder if the narrower cage on my old Dura-Ace front derailleur (not designed for a triple! I've probably been using it since the days of 5 & 6 cog freewheels.) actually works better than a derailleur designed for a triple. Sure, I may have to trim it a bit more but I wonder if it shifts more precisely because it was designed for double chainrings.
I also wonder if the narrower cage on my old Dura-Ace front derailleur (not designed for a triple! I've probably been using it since the days of 5 & 6 cog freewheels.) actually works better than a derailleur designed for a triple. Sure, I may have to trim it a bit more but I wonder if it shifts more precisely because it was designed for double chainrings.
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Originally Posted by SteveE
OK, I've got a question about Shimano front shifters. I ride a triple with Campy Record Ergo shifters. I counted 8 click stops on the front shifter going from the big chainring to the smallest. How many stops do you get with Shimano? Does Campy have a finer granularity in their shifter that makes it easier to trim the front derailleur?
Originally Posted by SteveE
I also wonder if the narrower cage on my old Dura-Ace front derailleur (not designed for a triple! I've probably been using it since the days of 5 & 6 cog freewheels.) actually works better than a derailleur designed for a triple. Sure, I may have to trim it a bit more but I wonder if it shifts more precisely because it was designed for double chainrings.
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Originally Posted by SteveE
Sure, I may have to trim it a bit more but I wonder if it shifts more precisely because it was designed for double chainrings.
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Originally Posted by RobotSonic
actually i dont think it would work. triple FDs cage has a bigger area to pick the chain up off the granny.