Can't seem to keep my sit-bones on the back part of the saddle...
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phoenixville, PA
Posts: 63
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Can't seem to keep my sit-bones on the back part of the saddle...
So let me preface this by saying that I'm not a very experienced rider, so that may factor into whats happening.
Anyway got a new bike last week. They did a very basic fit, but not a full fitting. I can't afford to get a full fitting at the moment so I'm hoping to adjust this myself if at all possible.
I seem to keep winding up sitting more in the middle of the saddle, instead of on the wider part. When they had me in the trainer they said my angle and reach looks good and stuff, and the seat seems to be set level. And when I sit on the wide part, I don't feel like too much weight is on my hands. But yet I still slide forward and then my under parts start to not like it.
Anything I can try to fix ? Should I move the saddle forward and/or tilt it up?
Anyway got a new bike last week. They did a very basic fit, but not a full fitting. I can't afford to get a full fitting at the moment so I'm hoping to adjust this myself if at all possible.
I seem to keep winding up sitting more in the middle of the saddle, instead of on the wider part. When they had me in the trainer they said my angle and reach looks good and stuff, and the seat seems to be set level. And when I sit on the wide part, I don't feel like too much weight is on my hands. But yet I still slide forward and then my under parts start to not like it.
Anything I can try to fix ? Should I move the saddle forward and/or tilt it up?
#2
Galveston County Texas
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In The Wind
Posts: 33,220
Bikes: 02 GTO, 2011 Magnum
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 1,235 Times
in
616 Posts
You are asking if we can fit an unknown rider on an unknown bike?
Is this you?
Is this you?
__________________
Fred "The Real Fred"
Fred "The Real Fred"
#3
Galveston County Texas
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In The Wind
Posts: 33,220
Bikes: 02 GTO, 2011 Magnum
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 1,235 Times
in
616 Posts
Your best help would come from returning to your bike shop and ask them, unless you can get some pics posted.
__________________
Fred "The Real Fred"
Fred "The Real Fred"
#4
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Painville, USA
Posts: 1,914
Bikes: 2007 Tarmac Pro
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Slide your butt forward/back until you are in KOPS (a good starting point) then adjust the saddle accordingly. You'll learn to fine-tune as you gain experience. Note that KOPS is just a starting point. Read this:
https://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html
https://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html
Last edited by Busta Quad; 09-12-12 at 08:54 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 191
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,760
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Liked 1,197 Times
in
758 Posts
What you're describing is often, mabye even usually caused by a saddle that is either slightly nose down, or needs to be tilted a little nose up above dead level. Yes it can also be caused by a reach that is too far, but in my experience it's more often saddle level first, then adjust the reach if neccessary.
The first thing I would do is:
1 - put your bike on a level surface, and then put a bubble level on the saddle. See exactly how level it is, or how much nose up or down it is.
2 - if you're saddle is nose down, adjust it until it is dead level using the bubble level. If it is already dead level, or close to that, adjust it so it is "1/2 bubble" nose up (in other words, just a tiny bit nose up). After you try that, if it's not right, you might try even a tiny bit more nose up. You might also have to lower the seat height a little, but do every thing in small increments and keep track of what your'e doing.
I've found that my comfort and ability to stay on the sweet spot of the saddle I use requres it to be about 1/2 to a full bubble nose up. It works perfectly for me that way. Your saddle angle will depend on your own anatomy, the saddle, and your preferences. But give the above adjustment a try before you start sliding it back and forth. My experience is that for me, keeping the saddle back a little behind "KOPS" also helps me settle on the saddle better. If I'm a little too far forward, my position on the saddle actually suffers a little too.
The first thing I would do is:
1 - put your bike on a level surface, and then put a bubble level on the saddle. See exactly how level it is, or how much nose up or down it is.
2 - if you're saddle is nose down, adjust it until it is dead level using the bubble level. If it is already dead level, or close to that, adjust it so it is "1/2 bubble" nose up (in other words, just a tiny bit nose up). After you try that, if it's not right, you might try even a tiny bit more nose up. You might also have to lower the seat height a little, but do every thing in small increments and keep track of what your'e doing.
I've found that my comfort and ability to stay on the sweet spot of the saddle I use requres it to be about 1/2 to a full bubble nose up. It works perfectly for me that way. Your saddle angle will depend on your own anatomy, the saddle, and your preferences. But give the above adjustment a try before you start sliding it back and forth. My experience is that for me, keeping the saddle back a little behind "KOPS" also helps me settle on the saddle better. If I'm a little too far forward, my position on the saddle actually suffers a little too.
#9
Senior Member
A lot of seat posts have very poor angle adjustment. They use serrations that are too widely spaced and the result is a saddle nose that is either too high or too low, with no in-between. I always use a post with a 2-bolt rocker-style clamp that allows very small angle changes.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 533
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The truth is that it is hard to tell without seeing you on the bike while cycling.
But generally, even after a basic fit, small adjustments are made to make things more comfortable for you, and make you feel like you fit correctly on the bike. For example, saddle height is something I still mess with every now and then on all my bikes. When using a new saddle, it can take me a week to get it just the way I want, tilting and moving it forwards and backwards by milimeters. Assuming your basic bike fit is correct, it is these small things that can make you feel comfortable. A bike fit generally does not include this, because we are talking milimeters here and the difference is not visible, but you feel it. Play around with different saddle positions and see if you can get it dialed in. If that is not possible, return to your LBS for help.
But generally, even after a basic fit, small adjustments are made to make things more comfortable for you, and make you feel like you fit correctly on the bike. For example, saddle height is something I still mess with every now and then on all my bikes. When using a new saddle, it can take me a week to get it just the way I want, tilting and moving it forwards and backwards by milimeters. Assuming your basic bike fit is correct, it is these small things that can make you feel comfortable. A bike fit generally does not include this, because we are talking milimeters here and the difference is not visible, but you feel it. Play around with different saddle positions and see if you can get it dialed in. If that is not possible, return to your LBS for help.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 548
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm actually having this same problem. I keep sliding forward without noticing and have to force myself to slide back. I'm planning on getting a pro fit soon as I'm experiencing multiple pains and discomforts here and there, but I might try what others have said and title the nose up for now.
#12
I got 99 problems....
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Does anyone know where the love of God goes, when the waves turn the minutes to hours?
Posts: 2,087
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
Just slide the saddle forward.
A saddle is not a pedal or a handlebar...your butt is not in a fixed position on top of the seat. If you have everything else "generally" correct, put the saddle where it is comfortable for your hinder.
Forcing your body to put your butt where it doesn't want to be is not going to solve anything.
A saddle is not a pedal or a handlebar...your butt is not in a fixed position on top of the seat. If you have everything else "generally" correct, put the saddle where it is comfortable for your hinder.
Forcing your body to put your butt where it doesn't want to be is not going to solve anything.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 8,550
Bikes: Wilier Izoard XP (Record);Cinelli Xperience (Force);Specialized Allez (Rival);Bianchi Via Nirone 7 (Centaur); Colnago AC-R Disc;Colnago V1r Limited Edition;De Rosa King 3 Limited(Force 22);DeRosa Merak(Red):Pinarello Dogma 65.1 Hydro(Di2)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 551 Post(s)
Liked 276 Times
in
144 Posts
Adjust the bike so it fits YOU! Do not adjust yourself to the bike. With reach and everything else properly adjusted and you are still moving forward on your saddle, move the saddle with you.
Daaaaang! How tall is that dude???
Daaaaang! How tall is that dude???
Last edited by tagaproject6; 09-13-12 at 09:13 AM.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 782
Bikes: 73 Raleigh Supercourse, 99 Specialized Stumpjumer, 08 LeMond Tourmalet
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I only ever had this problem when my saddle was too high and not flat enough. Could be too high, or the wrong shape for your behind. Go back to the shop and let them know.
#15
Faster but still slow
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Jersey
Posts: 5,978
Bikes: Trek 830 circa 1993 and a Fuji WSD Finest 1.0 2006
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
It ain't rocket science, and you don't need a picture. If he is sliding forward, then the tilt is off. Tilt up slightly until you find the perfect angle between not sliding and not squishing delicate parts.
#16
I got 99 problems....
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Does anyone know where the love of God goes, when the waves turn the minutes to hours?
Posts: 2,087
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
If the only thing that hurts are the sitbones, then by moving the saddle forward, the only thing you are changing is where the sitbones contact the saddle.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: SoCal Baby
Posts: 2,137
Bikes: o5 Specilized roubaix Comp, 06 Tequilo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
As an inexperienced rider you probably lack the flexibillity to be comfortable even in an "eyeball" fit. MarK the position of the seat tube clamp on the saddle rail then move the saddle forward . Ride bike lots. As you develop flexibilty and find your self off the back of the seat move the saddle back towrds the original position.
#18
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Painville, USA
Posts: 1,914
Bikes: 2007 Tarmac Pro
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,760
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Liked 1,197 Times
in
758 Posts
OP: you've obviously gotten two major schools of thought (1) simply move saddle forward or (2) adjust the tilt. Even if you think it's a forward/rearward issue, just be sure to at least check the level to see where it's at or an obvious tilt issue. Again, in my personal experience, this is the main reason people slide forward on their saddle, but it could be the other reason, sure.
Whatever type of adjustment you do, you should do only one thing at a time and use some sort of indicator (the level for tilt, a mark on the saddle rails for the other) so you can keep track of what you're doing and go back to where you started if need-be.
Good luck. Like someone said: it's not rocket science, just work a little at a time and keep track of what you've done.
Whatever type of adjustment you do, you should do only one thing at a time and use some sort of indicator (the level for tilt, a mark on the saddle rails for the other) so you can keep track of what you're doing and go back to where you started if need-be.
Good luck. Like someone said: it's not rocket science, just work a little at a time and keep track of what you've done.
#20
Retired dabbler
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Acton, MA (20 miles west of Boston) - GORGEOUS cycling territory!
Posts: 788
Bikes: 2007 Specialized Roubaix Elite Triple - 1st ride = century 9/19/2010 , Ultegra
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 2,745
Bikes: S-Works Roubaix SL2^H4, Secteur Sport, TriCross, Kaffenback, Lurcher 29er
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#22
unwilling rashtafarian
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: so fla
Posts: 186
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
on the rivet
Describes a rider who is riding at maximum speed. When riding at maximum power output, a road racer often perches on the front tip of the saddle (seat), where the shell of an old-style leather saddle would be attached to the saddle frame with a rivet.
Describes a rider who is riding at maximum speed. When riding at maximum power output, a road racer often perches on the front tip of the saddle (seat), where the shell of an old-style leather saddle would be attached to the saddle frame with a rivet.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boone, North Carolina
Posts: 5,094
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-6 2014 Trek Domaine 5.9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
.... and never sit on your taint. You'll wind up like pcad.
#24
he said member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: is everything
Posts: 13,725
Bikes: yes please
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2752 Post(s)
Liked 1,924 Times
in
1,186 Posts
Harsh! .....true but harsh! Lol.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: kennett sq. pa
Posts: 912
Bikes: 2008 Lynskey R220 2005 Lemond
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts