Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Need help assessing fork damage

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Need help assessing fork damage

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-22-19, 09:11 PM
  #1  
csport
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 675

Bikes: Soma Double Cross Disc (2017), red Hardrock FS (circa 1996)

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 217 Post(s)
Liked 155 Times in 102 Posts
Need help assessing fork damage

Hi

I was changing the stem/handlebars for a friend with the front wheel absent from aluminum fork. I placed for dropouts on a wooden box approximately 1' high. Accidentally the fork slipped and hit the floor when the bike fell. When we tried to insert the wheel back into the dropouts, it would not go in. I pressed on the fork blades to push them outside, and the wheel snapped in.

I looked at the dropouts, they did not look bent. What should I look for when assessing the damage? Cracks in the paint? I feel that this fork should just be replaced, especially given that this is not my bike.

Why did I try to change the stem with no front wheel? He had a problem with the front tire which deflated, and I suggested to take it out so that he could pump it while I was mounting the new stem. Yes, I know that the most dangerous mechanics are "experienced" home mechanics like me. Being able to successfully complete some projects results in overconfidence and loss of the sense of danger.
csport is offline  
Old 06-22-19, 10:49 PM
  #2  
easyupbug 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,675

Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 567 Post(s)
Liked 563 Times in 405 Posts
Your complication in my mind is that is not your bike and the liability is weighing heavily on you (reasonably), however if you are certain you see no crack in the fork end you might take the chance as aluminum is considered ductile. Strip the paint and look at the fork end aluminum surface. I had a fork dropped off of a shelf and used a buffer to polish it and clearly saw the crack so would not take the chance.
easyupbug is offline  
Old 06-23-19, 06:42 AM
  #3  
Last ride 76 
1/2 as far in 2x the time
 
Last ride 76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Northern Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 1,746

Bikes: Yes, Please.

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 285 Times in 222 Posts
Originally Posted by csport
Hi

I was changing the stem/handlebars for a friend with the front wheel absent from aluminum fork. I placed for dropouts on a wooden box approximately 1' high. Accidentally the fork slipped and hit the floor when the bike fell. When we tried to insert the wheel back into the dropouts, it would not go in. I pressed on the fork blades to push them outside, and the wheel snapped in.

I looked at the dropouts, they did not look bent. What should I look for when assessing the damage? Cracks in the paint? I feel that this fork should just be replaced, especially given that this is not my bike.

Why did I try to change the stem with no front wheel? He had a problem with the front tire which deflated, and I suggested to take it out so that he could pump it while I was mounting the new stem. Yes, I know that the most dangerous mechanics are "experienced" home mechanics like me. Being able to successfully complete some projects results in overconfidence and loss of the sense of danger.
Just to be clear, the dropouts slipped off the wooden box and hit the floor with the bike in an upright position? The drop was one foot? You believe the space between the drop outs is now narrower than before the wheel was removed, to the point where you have to force them apart to mount the wheel?

Unless you can see that the dropouts are bent or have shifted position in the fork, (perhaps coming unglued); or that the fork blades are bent, have shifted in the crown (again perhaps becoming unglued), or the crown is bent, I would venture a guess that either the axle locknuts have moved outwards or nothing has changed, and this was not the first time the forks were spread to put the wheel on.

My guess would be that nothing happened to the forks, from a drop of one foot, but check with your friend, and go over the forks carefully, esp. the joints.
Last ride 76 is offline  
Old 06-23-19, 07:06 AM
  #4  
andrewclaus
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,835

Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 674 Post(s)
Liked 739 Times in 430 Posts
How far is it bent? You should measure 100 mm between dropouts.

Where is it bent? If it's one of the dropouts, you can tell by making a gauge with two pieces of all-thread and four nuts, similar to the Park FFG tool.
andrewclaus is offline  
Old 10-23-19, 01:34 PM
  #5  
canyonhuten
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hhjk
canyonhuten is offline  
Old 10-23-19, 01:45 PM
  #6  
WizardOfBoz
Generally bewildered
 
WizardOfBoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037

Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 251 Posts
Originally Posted by andrewclaus
How far is it bent? You should measure 100 mm between dropouts.

Where is it bent? If it's one of the dropouts, you can tell by making a gauge with two pieces of all-thread and four nuts, similar to the Park FFG tool.
There are two dimensions of interest, and Andrew got em both. Measure between the fork blades. Should be 100mm +/- about 1 mm.

The dropout could have been distorted so that a properly sized axle won't fit. Check to see if either dropout is more closed than the other.

There is one other thing: modern forks have what are called lawyer's lips. If the QR was not open (unscrewed) far enough then that could make fitting the wheel in hard.

And also the brake might not have been switched to release mode and so its hard to get the tire past the pads.

Dropping an unloaded bike 1 foot onto the floor probalby should not have done much to the fork. But check dimensions....

Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 10-23-19 at 01:50 PM.
WizardOfBoz is offline  
Old 10-23-19, 01:46 PM
  #7  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,892

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4791 Post(s)
Liked 3,918 Times in 2,548 Posts
Did the wheel go in easily before? Did this drop change things or just make you aware of a pre-existing condition? It is very often not the first bent that aluminum has trouble with but the bend back to straight. If this is a glued fork, it is entirely possible that it never had proper spacing and that the manufacturer either did not check or (wisely in my opinion) chose not to bend the blades. (The manufacturer could have sold it "as is" for cheap to someone who knew and accepted the issue.)

Ben
79pmooney is offline  
Old 10-24-19, 03:07 AM
  #8  
Kimmo 
bike whisperer
 
Kimmo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,537

Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1523 Post(s)
Liked 716 Times in 508 Posts
The drop has obviously ended with one or both fork tips getting squashed a bit. No biggie - just get a small to medium sized adjustable wrench on it and carefully open it up again. To be clear - I'm talking about the slot being narrower at the edge; you should be able to see it looking at the fork from the side.

Aluminum doesn't like being bent around much, but this is about as much bend as RD hangers are commonly subjected to; should be no problem.
Kimmo is offline  
Old 10-25-19, 03:02 PM
  #9  
1saxman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 232

Bikes: Trek 930 (1992), Motobecane Hybrid w/juice brakes, spring fork and Shimano 8-spd hub.

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 11 Posts
If the forks are that delicate they should be thrown away anyhow. A front fork, even aluminum, has to be incredibly strong to withstand ordinary cycling use. You should be able to severely abuse it in a maintenance scenario without causing any dangerous damage. Now if you assemble the bike and deliberately run the bike into a stone wall at high speed, you're probably going to wreck the fork. Most anything short of that won't.
1saxman is offline  
Old 10-25-19, 06:51 PM
  #10  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times in 2,295 Posts
Originally Posted by 1saxman
If the forks are that delicate they should be thrown away anyhow. A front fork, even aluminum, has to be incredibly strong to withstand ordinary cycling use. You should be able to severely abuse it in a maintenance scenario without causing any dangerous damage. Now if you assemble the bike and deliberately run the bike into a stone wall at high speed, you're probably going to wreck the fork. Most anything short of that won't.
No. There's two different stresses going on here.

One is the normal compressive force the axle places on the drop out slot's closed end. I can't say I've ever seen a drop out fail from this compression. A number of other failure modes but not from this alone.

The second, and what we think might have occurred, is a bending force on one tip of the slot. This is quite possible and so well known that the LBS's largest wholesaler/supplier has warnings about not resting the fork on it's drop outs when slide hammering on the crown race. Dropping a fork onto one tip is much the same.

But this is one more reason to ride steel Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jambon
Bicycle Mechanics
19
03-18-18 03:35 PM
SB739
General Cycling Discussion
5
08-15-15 11:26 AM
xifias
Bicycle Mechanics
15
01-13-15 09:37 AM
delcrossv
Classic & Vintage
6
01-02-14 01:00 AM
jyl
Bicycle Mechanics
18
08-26-13 10:14 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.