Questions about a Park tool French thread crank remover
#1
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Questions about a Park tool French thread crank remover
Recently I picked up a local ebay purchase. After chatting for a couple hours he very generously gave me a french thread crank remover. It was made by Park and has two different sides with different thread sizes. I only have the threaded portion and not the arm that screws into the base. I tried to see if my standard park wrench would fit but it does not. Does anyone know what might work? I was hoping I could find a large bolt at the hardware store and use that but I am skeptical.
I hope that makes sense. I would like to plug the ebay seller too, Tom Hayes (ebay seller name Purplehayesbikes). He was not only generous but very interesting and friendly. He had the coolest collection I have seen in person.
I hope that makes sense. I would like to plug the ebay seller too, Tom Hayes (ebay seller name Purplehayesbikes). He was not only generous but very interesting and friendly. He had the coolest collection I have seen in person.
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I think pictures might help. I know I'm a little confused, but that might just because my crank puller is old and not Park.
#3
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Here is a photo of what I have. The blue handle part is a newer park CCP-2 crank remover. The other piece is the french threaded part that was given to me. The CCP-2 handle does not thread into the french threaded base and I am hoping to find something that does.
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#4
car dodger
just use a crescent or open end wrench on the flats in the middle of it - don't worry about finding the correct threaded handle.
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#6
car dodger
my bad - you need the tool to "push".
I have a park ccp-1 - both threads are unmarked.
I have a park ccp-1 - both threads are unmarked.
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1976 Fuji Feather track
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"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
1989 Schwinn Paramount OS
1980 Mclean/Silk Hope Sport Touring
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1976 Fuji Feather track
1979 raleigh track
"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
#7
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To my eye, that looks much more like a VAR tool than a Park. Perhaps your LBS has some VAR crank remover tools you might try to see if you can find the right insert.
Neal
Neal
#8
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What are the thread types on the "French" remover tool? If it's 23 on one side and 23.35 on the other, it's for TA/Stronglight (respectively), and I'd be a bit curious as to whether it is a Park tool. Far as I know, they only made a CCP-1 with 22 and 23mm capabilities.
-Kurt
-Kurt
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#9
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Good idea Neal, I have a lbs that can probably help me out with that.
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I wonder if a thread gauge would help?
Then at least you would have an idea of the size thread and bolt you'd need to "do the pulling." Other than that, I got nothing.
Then at least you would have an idea of the size thread and bolt you'd need to "do the pulling." Other than that, I got nothing.
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#12
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Looking closely at the tool, the threads seem pretty crisp. There is a good amount of old grease and gunk clogging up some areas. It may not be useable anyway, but I am not complaining considering it was free. Worst case scenario I will continue to troll ebay or cough up 50 dollars to velo-orange.
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#13
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Kurt, to be honest I don't really know. One of the sides works on my Stonglight 93 crank and I just assumed the other side probably worked with TA cranks. The only reason I say it's a Park branded tool is because that is what the guy told me. He had an older white Park handle and I think he said that is what works.
-Kurt
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As some had recently noted in this forum, the Park Tools CCP-1 Stronglight/TA crank puller had bee discontinued by park years ago and is not available new anymore. Stronglight and TA made their own pullers that come at at Ebay regularly for sometime reasonable enough prices. If you still want to used the partial Park puller you have obtained (Which looks very much like the one on my CCP-1 puller.), you might be able to locate a big/long enough hex head bolt that might fit through it and still use it....that is unless the threads and bolt diameter that Park used on the tool is totally prorietary....Idunnodat. I think it would be worth a trip to the hardware store to see if you can find one that fits/works.
Good luck!
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Good luck!
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As some had recently noted in this forum, the Park Tools CCP-1 Stronglight/TA crank puller had bee discontinued by park years ago and is not available new anymore. Stronglight and TA made their own pullers that come at at Ebay regularly for sometime reasonable enough prices. If you still want to used the partial Park puller you have obtained (Which looks very much like the one on my CCP-1 puller.), you might be able to locate a big/long enough hex head bolt that might fit through it and still use it....that is unless the threads and bolt diameter that Park used on the tool is totally prorietary....Idunnodat. I think it would be worth a trip to the hardware store to see if you can find one that fits/works.
Good luck!
Chombi
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Good luck!
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#16
car dodger
Just tried my "cyclepro" crank puller/handle with the park outer section - not even close. Threads didn't even touch. So I guess you need to figure out what kind yours is, to match it. Or hope to get lucky at the hardware store.
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"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
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If the hardware store doesn't work, a machine shop should be able to measure the inside diameter, thread pitch, and make something up for you pretty quickly on a lathe. If I didn't move away to school from my job at the shop I'd offer to do it. The good news (for you, not the economy as a whole) is that the guys at most shops are probably standing around doing nothing right now anyway.
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If you have a claw-type gear puller, use that with this piece - screw this into your crank, and leave enough space between the nut portion to engage your puller claws. If the puller screw is too large a diameter, drop in a small socket or something similar to drive off of.
#19
elcraft
Right, but that does not remove the crank, the threaded object on the handle is what does all of the work.
Kurt, to be honest I don't really know. One of the sides works on my Stonglight 93 crank and I just assumed the other side probably worked with TA cranks. The only reason I say it's a Park branded tool is because that is what the guy told me. He had an older white Park handle and I think he said that is what works.
Kurt, to be honest I don't really know. One of the sides works on my Stonglight 93 crank and I just assumed the other side probably worked with TA cranks. The only reason I say it's a Park branded tool is because that is what the guy told me. He had an older white Park handle and I think he said that is what works.
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My understanding of this Park tool was that the French threaded side was only compatible with TA/Nervar cranks. The Stronglight pitch was slightly narrower/finer. This tool was standard threading (Shimano/ Campy) on one side and then 23 tpi threading for TA or Nervar cranks ONLY. Stronglight required the 23.35 (in that vintage). If you use yours successfully with 93 cranks, I am surprised!
-Kurt
#21
elcraft
My understanding of this Park tool was that the French threaded side was only compatible with TA/Nervar cranks. The Stronglight pitch was slightly narrower/finer. This tool was standard threading (Shimano/ Campy) on one side and then 23 tpi threading for TA or Nervar cranks ONLY. Stronglight required the 23.35 (in that vintage). If you use yours successfully with 93 cranks, I am surprised!
I am thinking about acquiring a Stein crank puller. it is the only currently made extractor for old
Stronglight.
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#22
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Photo of the CCP variants, as promised. CCP-1 at left with 22mm/23mm head, CCP-2 with 22mm head, and CCP-4 with 22mm for ISIS:
The CCP-1's 22mm section is deeper then either of the ends on the OP's new tool. Not that this proves anything - short of the tool being something other then part of a Park CCP-1.
EDIT: The CCP-1 and CCP-2's heads are interchangeable. Identical threading on both tools, old and new.
-Kurt
The CCP-1's 22mm section is deeper then either of the ends on the OP's new tool. Not that this proves anything - short of the tool being something other then part of a Park CCP-1.
EDIT: The CCP-1 and CCP-2's heads are interchangeable. Identical threading on both tools, old and new.
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 12-03-09 at 09:45 PM.
#23
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Park CCP-1 dimensions:
Actual measurements, not nominal:
Thread diameter of Threaded rod attached to handle .558" Appears to be 18 tpi
Inner diameter of threaded hole through the tool: .515 "
Thread diameter of tool end #1: .860"
Thread diameter of tool end #2: .902"
Maybe someone can convert those to more useful numbers.
Are you looking for a tool for a one-off removal because you're getting rid of the crank, or looking to buy a tool ?
Actual measurements, not nominal:
Thread diameter of Threaded rod attached to handle .558" Appears to be 18 tpi
Inner diameter of threaded hole through the tool: .515 "
Thread diameter of tool end #1: .860"
Thread diameter of tool end #2: .902"
Maybe someone can convert those to more useful numbers.
Are you looking for a tool for a one-off removal because you're getting rid of the crank, or looking to buy a tool ?
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#24
nice idea, poor execution
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If either of you need to borrow a Stein puller to get your cranks off send me a PM.
#25
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Wow, thank you for the helpful answers. I don't need the tool right this minute, just eventually since I am keeping the crank. I just happened on this half of the tool and thought I may be able to make it work.
Thanks everyone, I will check in when I get an answer.
Matt
Thanks everyone, I will check in when I get an answer.
Matt
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