I stripped the CRAP out of my Chain ring bolts....
#1
King Hoternot
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 5,255
Bikes: 2015 Cannondale Evo Hi mod
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I stripped the CRAP out of my Chain ring bolts....
FSA SLK crankset. Swapping out stock for praxis works chainrings. front FSA bolts are a t30 and the rear is a 6mm. I got 3 of them out easily but 2 of them buggers are really stuck in there and now that I have stripped both the T30 AND the opposite 6mm, they are REALLY in there.
WTF do I do now?
WTF do I do now?
#2
Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
FSA SLK crankset. Swapping out stock for praxis works chainrings. front FSA bolts are a t30 and the rear is a 6mm. I got 3 of them out easily but 2 of them buggers are really stuck in there and now that I have stripped both the T30 AND the opposite 6mm, they are REALLY in there.
WTF do I do now?
WTF do I do now?
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,693
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5773 Post(s)
Liked 2,569 Times
in
1,422 Posts
I assume you're talking about typical chainring nut and bolt pairs. If so the easiest way is to use a countersink (you need a power drill) from the back. As the countersink enters, it separates the back flange from the nut and the bolt pushes through.
Buy a new set of 5 and you'll be good to go. The nut should be dry where it meets the chainring (helps prevent spinning) and the screw greased.
Buy a new set of 5 and you'll be good to go. The nut should be dry where it meets the chainring (helps prevent spinning) and the screw greased.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I've used an ovesize standard drill bit to do the same thing. Use a bit large enough to overlap the original hole and drill just deep enough to separate the flange (or bolt head) from the nut (or bolt shank). I've never had to remove chainring bolts this way but I have safely removed clipless pedal cleats from shoes where the bolts' 4 mm recesses are too damaged to fit a hex key.