nlerner

I might have a few:

cudak888 

I see a few good ones - PM sent.

-Kurt

Unca_Sam

Just to be clear, these aren't the unobtainium variety meant to fit the 4 mm hole on the rounded brake bridge, are they? I've never even seen one of those.

cudak888 

Nope. These are huge versions of the same style of adjuster you'd see on a modern sidepull, just a Raleigh-specific version.

-Kurt

JohnDThompson 

FYI, if you're looking for those particular barrel adjusters, the adjusters from Simplex "Prestige" shift levers will work:

nlerner

You mean these?



These were lurking at the bottom of that drawer. The ones on the right are the Raleigh rear brake stops. On the left are Simplex gear stops as JT points out. They fit the brake bridge hole but take some careful trimming of cable housing to get a good fit.

Unca_Sam

Yeah! Those!
I'm using the Simplex adjuster hack at the moment with a step down ferrule to hold the brake housing. Because I opted for the VO braided cable, it's quite stiff and doesn't adjust easily, though it does work which is what matters?
the biggest complaint is that my fingers aren't dainty enough for that adjuster. The Raleigh adjusters look more useful, are they on offer?

th3realmckay

ISO

'85 Schwinn Cimarron fork for 23" frame.

nlerner

PM me.

cudak888 

I just realized the clutch spring cap for the Sturmey AW I was working on went missing. Can't find another.

LMK if anyone has one to spare. It's the stupid (at the moment) steel ring that caps the clutch spring, as shown:







-Kurt

100bikes

ISO Campagnolo Professional tool case liner.

The padded one with Campagnolo logo that fits into the lid of the case.

I know, its a long shot..
I have a case without the liner.
Would also be interested in a handle for same.
rusty

Prowler 

does it really need to be a cap as shown, or is the cap shape really just to facilitate doing lots of these per day at the SA factory? IOW could you just a properly sized steel washer? IIRC, you need a flat piece at the end of the spring to protect it from the part that bears against it. ID to fit over the axle, OD just right to prevent dragging on anything else. If, fact, when assembled that end of the spring does not ever move does it? The other end does. Hmmmm?

However, it's been quite some time since I exploded a SA IGH.

cudak888 

I thought about that. I theorize the cup shape of it is to keep it as close to a right angle against the axle as possible, preventing it from binding on the threads. Even the SRF-3 uses this design to this day, so there must be something about it that works

All things considered, I'd rather do it right on this particular project.

-Kurt

James1964 

Looking for a pair of Speedplay Frog cleats to get me through to when Wahoo (now owner of Speedplay) has their supply chain sorted out.

My old cleats are worn out and the LBS that sells Speedplay told me it will be several months before replacement cleats are available. They seem to be sold out on-line too. It would be unfortunate if Wahoo stopped offering replacement cleats for the discontinued Speedplay pedals. I can understand discontinuing a product, but discontinuing the consumable required to use the product is absurd. Too many companies talk big about being environmentally friendly and then make decisions that make products obsolete.

Thanks,
James

thumpism 

I might have one. I'll check.

cudak888 

Thank you!

-Kurt

thumpism 

PM sent, but what I have is not the right size. Shown with an axle nut for scale.

cudak888 

Bearing dustcap, unfortunately!

Thanks for checking.

-Kurt

nlerner

Kurt, I have a spare spring cap. PM incoming on the other items.

cudak888 

10-4. Will await your PM.

-Kurt

AZORCH

I'm rebuilding a Lyotard 460 pedal. The right pedal body needs replaced, but my French thread spindle is good to go. Soooo... I'm in search of a pedal body, or a pedal with French threads. Let me know what you've got.

m

oneclick 

Have a look at this thread, if you haven't already:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...al-danger.html

AZORCH

Thanks, and yes I remember when that warning was posted. Much appreciated.

oneclick 

If you want to keep the same pedal style have a look for Atom pedals, they made more than one model with a one-piece alloy body and wide flat plates like that. Two of them have steel plates, they could be brazed at the corners and they'd be quite stiff.

As for the Berthet pedals not cracking, yes the bearings are closer together and that helps, but the big difference may be that the body is one-piece (and steel). Their own idiosyncracy is the outer alloy end-plates wear against the threads at the end of the body, and when they've done this enough they start rocking and clicking. Fortunately the alloy is soft and forgiving enough that they can be tightened up with a ball-peen hammer.

RustyJames 

Looking for something vintage-y looking. Square-ish, plated are ideal. FWIW it would be going on my ~1960 Legnano that originally had a Campy Sport if that helps you gauge the mojo I’m after. Thx all!