noglider 

That's a good picture of your fit. I call that semi-upright, and I've had a few bikes with a similar position. It makes riding in the city fun. Oddly enough, I don't have that fit now on my commuter bikes, and maybe I should. 3cm is a lot to add. It might change the fit a lot, and that could be good.

And you don't look like a monster, at least not with your face blocked out.

non-fixie 

Excellent pictures. And I think a little more reach would make you feel less cramped, especially on longer rides.

Piff 

Exactly what I was thinking.

JaccoW

Got the new stem in the mail yesterday. Going from 90mm to 120mm is a bigger stretch than expected but it feels so much better on the bike. Downright roomy now with lots of room to move.

JaccoW

And a new shot with the longer stem. Slightly more upright and my arms are going up at a slightly less steep angle

Old 90mm stem:


New 120mm stem:

noglider 

It's beautiful except for that mud pie someone threw on your face.

cudak888 

Looks a lot more relaxed at the shoulders now - still appears a bit tight, but I dare say it looks as if the frame's top and seat tube lengths are the only remaining limitations.

How's the knee clearance? Have you taken it out for a nice long run to see how the fit feels after a while in the saddle?

-Kurt

noglider 

Fantastic. Do you consider it finished now?

JaccoW

Yeah I could have probably used a larger size frame as well, that's why the RoadAce with its 66cm was nice, but ultimately this is an upright bike that I made a bit sportier with a minor drop and a longer stem.
I will be taking it out into town for some groceries in a few minutes. That should give me a pretty good idea.

I kind of want to try a 70cm frame some day... but those are rare, even around here.
I appreciate my privacy on the internet a little bit. It's also why I remove GPS data from the pictures I upload before posting hem here.

Almost but the final details will need to be ironed out in the next few weeks after some riding.

I'm going to experiment a little bit with different seatposts, the Nitto S65 comes to mind and perhaps a bag support for the Carradice.
I might consider the Ocean Air Cycles × Nitto erlen saddle bag support which mounts directly between the saddle and the seatpost.

Another thing is the lock and some accessories like a proper bungy X-strap and maybe I will replace the tyres with a nice set of skinwalls in the future.
And of course the gold shifter cable. The black one is functional but I want it all to match.

And maybe gear it a little bit higher. I believe the top is at 88 gear inches and I often want a little bit more.

EDIT:

(Gear Calculator link)

33.4 - 85.6 gear inches even. A 16T would increase that to a 35.5 - 91.
I probably even have the stuff around to do that today or tomorrow but tomorrow I will be picking up a Ikea bicycle trailer.

JaccoW

Received the new seatpost today and while the original post was a 26.6 mm one, the 26.8 mm slid in just fine. Fit pictures will have to wait.




Another thing I picked up this weekend was an Ikea Sladda trailer, and I found a place that still had the gold shifter cable in stock. Fingers crossed it will come in this weekend.

cudak888 

That looks just about perfect - especially with the Sladda trailer. Do you ever see any of the Sladda's rolling about even after they were recalled?

-Kurt

JaccoW

Very, very rarely. I think I've seen a single person riding them last year. They are kind of a collector's item, even here.
The trailers are even rarer, but to be honest I don't see too many people riding bikes with trailers in the city.

noglider Here is some more info on the wiring. Apologies for some of the dust and dirt in these pictures. There is lots of pollen in the air here and I rode it through the rain last week.

First of all, I used SON's coaxial cable system for all the wires. B+M's double strand cables are just fine but there is something nice about a single wire with quick-release connectors everywhere. Even though they are a ***** to solder properly sometimes. :X
All of the wires in the front go through the inside of the rack as much as possible to make sure they are protected. This required drilling about 4 new holes and opening up another 2 to make sure they were big enough for the cable + silicon protector.



Front side of the bike:

So on the front we have two wires running up the bracket and into the rack. Since I live in a right-hand side country and the drum is on the left we need to make the dynamo wire go from the left side where the light is, down to the right where the connector is. Usually I would do this through the fork but the rack was a much easier option this time.

The cable for the taillight has to jump a few welds so I drilled a couple of holes to make them nearly invisible. The wire then runs along the bracket connecting it to the fork underneath the headtube where it runs into the frame, inside the downtube.





Rear side of the bike:

At the bottom bracker it leaves through a small hole where it runs into the rear fender with the use of a quick-release connector.
Then the cable runs along the inside of the rolled edge of the fender and exits at the rear light, making for a nearly invisible wire.

I crimped the rolled egde in a number of places so it would hold the cable but you have to be careful not to dent the fender itself, as I did a few times.






Glamour shots:

noglider 

Great job with the wiring. Are you an engineer of some kind?

JaccoW

I carry the title but Industrial Engineering has more in common with Business Administration. I think this has more to do with my PC modding + mechanical keyboard phase. I just like making stuff functional and pretty.


Duck Orion TKL V1 keyboard. Solid aluminum case with a stainless steel plate inside. A featherweight at 3.5 Kg (7.7 lbs).

JaccoW

Alright, time for the final piece of the puzzle. The golden shifter cable!

As per cudak888 's suggestion I used the classic cable crimps instead of the modern clamps... but as he said, it's a bit fiddly and it cost me a nice Jagwire inner cable. Not to worry though, it's still long enough for front derailleur duty.
It does make for a very clean line. <3





The gold shifter cables complete the bike in my eyes. Here are some early shots but I will probably shoot some better pictures with my actual camera instead of my phone in a day or two.

noglider 

Bravo. That eccentric gadget in the dropout, is that for wheel positioning?

JaccoW

I believe it is a Koga-patented thing that allows the wheel to slide forward and down. It also makes it significantly easier to center the wheel. If not for the thicker tyres I could probably take out the wheel with just a 15mm wrench.

JaccoW

Final photoshoot for today. Rode around town to make some beauty shots and get a good feel for how the bike rides.
It's a fairly zippy bike that doesn't mind bumpy roads or going down stairs. There's barely a creak to be heard.

First, the garden:

JaccoW

Then I took off into town for a ride.

The harbour makes for some beautiful shots and a very nice ride. A bit bumpy at times though.







Reflections at the currently being built Boijmans van Beuningen museum Depot

Some overview shots:


Driveside


Drum side


Hub and rim


Drum close-up

non-fixie 

Excellent, both the bike and the pictures. Well done!

JaccoW

So, to conclude, these are the final specs for now.

Current Specs:

• Frame: Handbuilt Hardtlite® FM-1 chromoly splined triple butted tubing. Special Koga dropouts
• Fork: "Sport" Hi-Manga
• Size: 63cm
• Weight: 18.4 kg (40.5 lbs) as pictured. But without the front rack (1kg / 2.2lbs), frame lock (0.75kg / 1.6 lbs), fenders (0.8g / 1.7 lbs) and saddle bag (0.5kg / 1.1 lbs) this would be a 15.3 kg (33.7 lbs) bike
• Color: Dark green metallic with green metallic
• Handlebar: Velo Orange Porteur handlebar
• Stem: Nitto Technomic NTC-225. 120mm reach
• Seatpost: Procraft classic 2-bolt 26.8mm seatpost with a Lepper Tourer saddle
• Bell: Crane E-ne bell in matte brass
• Brakes: Sturmey Archer 90mm drum brakes front and rear. Jagwire braided gold brake lines
• Headset: Primax roller bearing
• Front Wheel: H Plus Son Archetype with Sturmey Archer XL-FDD dynohub. DT Swiss Alpine III spokes + brass spoke head washers + Pro Head brass nipples. Schwalbe Delta Cruiser cream 37-622
• Rear Wheel: H Plus Son Archetype with Sturmey Archer drum brake hub. DT Swiss Alpine III spokes + brass spoke head washers + Pro Head brass nipples + Sapim HM nipple washers. Schwalbe Delta Cruiser cream 37-622
• Crankset: Sturmey Archer 33T + BlueLug brass self-extracting bolt + MKS BM-7 Next pedals
• Drivetrain: Sturmey Archer XL-RD5(w) 5-speed IGH, 17T sprocket + Hesling chaincase
• Fenders: Gilles Berthoud stainless steel fender in 700C long 50mm wide. Honjo 'Dove' rear fender stay and tarpulin mudflap set in large
• Lights: Modified Busch + Müller IQ Cyo Premium T & Secula Plus rear. Wired up with SON coaxial cables and connectors
• Rack: Pelago Commuter stainless steel front rack
• Saddelbag: Carradice Junior
• Kickstand: Esge Pletscher
• Frame Lock: Axa Victory
• Chain Lock: to be determined

cudak888 

Man, what a perfect end to a perfect build. Standing ovation.

-Kurt

The Thin Man 

Such sublime and tastefully done modern updates. A touch I really like are your Netherlands zip tie stripes. It's small things I take most note of.

Also, stellar photography. It makes me yearn to get back to The Netherlands.

Bravo, sir.

JaccoW

Thank you all gentlemen.

JaccoW

Since this is a more upright bike and a smaller bag the Carradice saddle bag was swinging sometimes and hitting my leg when taking off from a traffic light. So I ordered a Carradice Bagman Expedition with support rack.
I plan to use the quick release functionality so I can swap it with my Super C on the Batavus when needed but it needs a way to lock the bag to the bike as well. I have something in mind but the store closed before I could pick it up.