Cinelli 1a stem handlebar bolt spinning
11-17-23, 10:29 AM
#26
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OK found one like yours
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11-17-23, 10:55 AM
#27
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I'll have to correct myself from my previous post. I said I've only seen one 1A stem with a knurled bolt. Well, make that three. This thread made me investigate two NOS stems I have. They both have knurled bolts. The strange thing is that one of the stems is notched for a keyed bolt.
As a side note. I once bought a complete bike with a 1A stem and somewhere down the line, somebody put the key on the bolt 180 degrees from the notch. So, it was at the thinnest part of the stem and it caused the stem to crack.
As a side note. I once bought a complete bike with a 1A stem and somewhere down the line, somebody put the key on the bolt 180 degrees from the notch. So, it was at the thinnest part of the stem and it caused the stem to crack.
Last edited by gearbasher; 11-17-23 at 11:00 AM.
11-17-23, 11:06 AM
#28
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I hope the stem is notched, because the bolt definitely isn't. I think there's no way it would be spinning this far in if it weren't a knurled nut. If that's the case, I'll want to find a keyed bolt.
I should know better that to ask, but... a keyed seatpost bolt wouldn't happen to fit in here, would it?
I should know better that to ask, but... a keyed seatpost bolt wouldn't happen to fit in here, would it?
11-17-23, 11:06 AM
#29
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I'll have to correct myself from my previous post. I said I've only seen one 1A stem with a knurled bolt. Well, make that three. This thread made me investigate two NOS stems I have. They both have knurled bolts. The strange thing is that one of the stems is notched for a keyed bolt.
As a side note. I once bought a complete bike with a 1A stem and somewhere down the line, somebody put the key on the bolt 180 degrees from the notch. So, it was at the thinnest part of the stem and it caused the stem to crack.
As a side note. I once bought a complete bike with a 1A stem and somewhere down the line, somebody put the key on the bolt 180 degrees from the notch. So, it was at the thinnest part of the stem and it caused the stem to crack.
11-17-23, 11:17 AM
#30
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Mike Kone had them, he sold out his inventory a while ago to another seller, Name escapes me. He had they type with the single notch.
11-17-23, 11:52 AM
#31
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Funny you should mention that. I never throw anything useful away. So, when I mentioned the cracked stem, I figured I had saved the keyed bolt. I went looking and found the binder bolt and an XA clamp bolt, but not the keyed one 1A clamp bolt.
11-17-23, 12:30 PM
#33
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AHH, a chance to experiment. Yes a keyed seat post binder bolt will fit. See photos. But, do not do it. Actually the key is on the female threaded "nut" side of a seat post bolt. Cinelli calls for a torque spec. of 15 N.m. on the handlebar binder. The seat post binder suggested torque is 4 - 6.5 N.m. I've snapped a dozen seat post bolts. So, once again, I wouldn't do it.
Last edited by gearbasher; 11-17-23 at 02:50 PM.
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11-17-23, 01:50 PM
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It might be an outside chance but if there is enough room for a thin tip pair of needle nose pliers might be able to clamp the bolt/nut in the stem long enough to loosen the bar clamp bolt. I have a pair of locking tip pliers but the tips are pretty thick and would not fit in the stem. I would be sure some ATF/ Acetone or Kroil would be soaked into the threads. Smiles, MH
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11-17-23, 02:10 PM
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@Mad Honk - I think the sleave of the Alan nut blocks the threads of the bolt. One of the benefits of the design for the bolt threads to not be so exposed as the first set of pictures I presented.
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11-17-23, 02:16 PM
#37
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The ideal tool would be thin aluminum or brass pliers thin enough to hold the exposed bolt thread.
11-17-23, 02:17 PM
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Cut it in half and sandwich it in on the shaft of the bolt, then carefully apply Vise Grips to clamp down on the shaft and see if it will come loose.
You could use 2 small pieces of a hacksaw blade for more bite, maybe.
Also maybe apply super glue at the front to help hold the bolt, again maybe.
11-17-23, 02:57 PM
#39
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...nothing is ever easy with Cinelli stems. 
All mine are keyed, but I know of no source for the binder bolts that is reasonably priced. I have tossed several of the other ones, with that stupid wedge thingy to hold the bar in place. It always cracks.
All mine are keyed, but I know of no source for the binder bolts that is reasonably priced. I have tossed several of the other ones, with that stupid wedge thingy to hold the bar in place. It always cracks.
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11-17-23, 03:11 PM
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I had to hacksaw a clamp bolt once, but my issue was it was stuck and the hex end was rounded enough that limited the purchase I could put on it. It was one of the keyed bolts.
Luckily a mate had a stuck 1A stem he had to cut out, so I grabbed his bolt.
11-17-23, 03:16 PM
#42
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I always use a 4mm allen key to spread the Cinelli clamp while positioning the stem on the bar sleeve. I hold the wrench and stem in one hand and the bar in the other. Not sure why this solution won't work as well in this case. I would try everything before destroying the bolt or nut.
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11-17-23, 03:22 PM
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11-17-23, 05:52 PM
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Is that a thick enough bolt Van? The buttonhole end looks sort of cool though.
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11-17-23, 08:37 PM
#45
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Well, I gave up with this stem, but not in the way you think.
The best thing to do was to remove the bolt, inspect for damage and try to put the bolt back in a way that would hold better the next time around. Using different Allen wrenches, I slowly got the nut to hold to make a tiny bit of progress. Went from a 2mm Allen to a 4.5mm Allen with this grip:
At this point, I wasn't able to pull hard enough to get the nut to "stick" anymore. But what I was able to do was mount some handlebars in it. Initially, these were just supposed to be a passive wedge, as my Allen wrenches marred the stem something awful. But with diminishing returns as they were, I gave up and started cranking down the other way on the bolt.
After a little struggle, I got the nut to stop spinning and cranked down hard. The nut is now embedded much deeper in the stem than before, a good sign that I might have some luck removing it someday.
But that's not my plan. I can hopefully go the rest of my life without ever loosening this bolt now. If the bars go, the stems go, and what I have put together let no man separate.
The best thing to do was to remove the bolt, inspect for damage and try to put the bolt back in a way that would hold better the next time around. Using different Allen wrenches, I slowly got the nut to hold to make a tiny bit of progress. Went from a 2mm Allen to a 4.5mm Allen with this grip:
At this point, I wasn't able to pull hard enough to get the nut to "stick" anymore. But what I was able to do was mount some handlebars in it. Initially, these were just supposed to be a passive wedge, as my Allen wrenches marred the stem something awful. But with diminishing returns as they were, I gave up and started cranking down the other way on the bolt.
After a little struggle, I got the nut to stop spinning and cranked down hard. The nut is now embedded much deeper in the stem than before, a good sign that I might have some luck removing it someday.
But that's not my plan. I can hopefully go the rest of my life without ever loosening this bolt now. If the bars go, the stems go, and what I have put together let no man separate.
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11-18-23, 02:18 AM
#46
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Its stainless and I have had bars mounted with plenty of torque.
I have used stainless bolts for replacements on the MC at the dragstrip with perfect results so I'm very confidant these will work just fine.
11-18-23, 05:57 AM
#47
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It's the same thread as the original, the back piece is original, you mean long enough?
Its stainless and I have had bars mounted with plenty of torque.
I have used stainless bolts for replacements on the MC at the dragstrip with perfect results so I'm very confidant these will work just fine.
Its stainless and I have had bars mounted with plenty of torque.
I have used stainless bolts for replacements on the MC at the dragstrip with perfect results so I'm very confidant these will work just fine.
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11-18-23, 06:48 AM
#48
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Just thinking out loud here. I've never tried this. Slide the tail end another stem (wedge style) into the clamp space and snug it up to apply pressure on the clamp, then try loosening the Allen key bolt end. 🤷♂️
11-18-23, 07:50 AM
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Maybe too late, but I thought you could use a drill press with a wooden dowel, with the stem on a vise, to press on the bolt.
11-18-23, 07:50 AM
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Im trying visualize this Skip. Do you mean the wedge is tightened into the space in the pinch area from both sides?
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