reptilezs

been using a wrench force one and it doesn't work very well. i greased the threads and tip. what do you like and what has pulled cranks effortlessly? had a real tight one today. looking for a sq taper one mostly. i don't like the integrated handle ones

HillRider

Are you sure there wasn't a washer left in the crank's puller recess? My crank puller is a Shimano TL-FC10 specific to square taper spindles. I also have a couple of Shimano TL-FC15 steel "mushrooms" that adapt it for Octalink/ISIS spindles. It works very well for both types.

CACycling

It is all about leverage. Pretty much all the pullers I've seen use the same thread pitch on the threaded section that does the work so a revolution moves the crank arm about the same distance meaning it will take about the same force. If you found one with finer threading (more threads per inch), it would take less torque to do its work. I've had a couple of cranks that were on much tighter than normal and took a lot more effort to remove. Doubt a different puller would have made a significant difference.

reptilezs

no washer. the crank did come off just had to turn wicked hard. was using my 11in flex ratchet. had plenty of leverage. ended up slipping some pipe on the crank arm and just reefing on it. heard some creaking but it came off.

fietsbob

effortless? power-tools.. !

The ones like Trek sold, and the Campag ones , ones that have a hex head on the end.
you put a socket in the 3/8 drive ratchet handle then ,
It's the leverage is what makes it easy.

hueyhoolihan

been there, done that. it's surprising how robust a Park crank puller (with integrated handle, no less) is. it can just about pull the threads from the crank as well as the arm from the spindle.

HillRider

My Shimano puller has flats that take a 16 mm or 5/8" open end wrench and a 14 mm recess in the screw press' head. I use the wrench flats but if you happen to have a 14 mm allen key, that would work too.

FastJake

I did this by accident once. My Park crank puller ripped the threads right out of the crank. After removing the washer I was able to re-thread the puller and remove the arm no problem.

Just Riding

I have that same puller and have used the 14mm recess to remove the crank bolt sometimes, but I never thought to put a 14mm allen wrench in it when pulling the crank. That would give pretty good leverage for most cranks.

In the past year, I've pulled cranks on 2 bikes that probably had the cranks installed back around the Carter administration. I was using a 15" adjustable wrench to crank on the puller. I was a little beyond where I thought I was going to strip the crank threads out and the cranks hadn't budged.

I stopped and sprayed PB Blaster on the crank, tightened up on the puller as much as I dared, and banged on the crank with a dead blow hammer. I sprayed more Blaster and let it sit like that for a half hour. A few more blows from the hammer and just a tad more torquing on the puller and the cranks came loose.

Waving a luck rabbit's foot may have helped too; I can't say for sure. The leverage was definitely needed, but it seemed like a fine line between pulling the cranks and stripping the threads.

3alarmer 

How come the censor let's you say crank puller but not ************?

Joe T

Hallo HillRider,Hallo HillRider,



I’ve got a TL-FC10 crank puller that I would like to use to remove a Shimano 105 crankset (FC-1050) to get at a BB-1050 bottom bracket. From all I can tell, the TL-FC10 is the right puller for square spindels, but I’m finding that the tip (rotating part) of the puller is about 2 mm too wide to fit into the square hole to push against the spindel. I’ve found various suggestions online, but none seems to have been from anyone who has actually used the puller. I would be extremely grateful for any suggestions.

Thanks!

JohnDThompson 

I haven't tried your specific combination of tools and components, but in cases where the extractor tip bottoms out against the arm before engaging the spindle, I've found placing a 5/16" ball bearing (as found in Ashtabula-type bottom brackets; 1/4" is too small) on the end of the spindle and then having the extractor push against the ball will remove the arm. A dab of grease on the ball will hold it in place on the spindle end while you engage the extractor.

Bon chance!

Joe T

Thanks for the tip. I'll do exactly as you suggest if no one comes up with a better idea.
I'm kind of surprised I wasn't able to find a solution online.

HillRider

Hi, yes I'm still here.

I never had any problems using my TL-FC10 to pull 105 (FC-1050) and Ultegra square taper cranks from several BB-UN7X and BB-UN5X cartridge bottom brackets, and with the "mushroom tool" insert, it works fine for Octalink (BB-6500) bottom brackets. I have no experience with the BB-1050 Cup-and-Cone type you mention but I see no reason why it shouldn't work.

If your particular combination doesn't work, John's recommendation to use a bearing ball as a spacer is a good one. I expect a small square or hex nut could also be used.

EddyR

I also have the Park CCP-2 . I never found a crank I could not get off with it. When I was flipping bikes 700+ I must have done at least 100.
Yesterday I was going to remove the BB on a 92 Cannondale I just got. I forgot about the washer for a few minutes and then it dawned on me to remove the washer.
It was the tightest crank I had seen in years. I needed a 14" bar on it.
Ed

Joe T

The tip of the TL-FC10 measures 12 mm in diameter, which means it would in fact normally fit nicely into the square hole in the crank for the spindle (the end of which should measure 12.65 mm (JIS) or 12.33 (ISO) across). What I had simply not thought of - nor would really have ever reckoned with - is that the edges of the hole in the crank have been pressed down and inward (possibly with some sort of Octalink extractor or adapter) just enough to prevent the tip of the TL-FC10 from entering to come up against the end of the spindle. The damage is not all that obvious at fist glance, but it’s definitely visible once you know it’s there. I could only see it a strong flashlight. As soon as the coronavirus thing abates, I’ll go shopping for a ball bearing (should be fun) and do as JohnDThompson suggested.

Thank you and JohnDThompson for your help. Stay healthy.

dmark 

1400 ft/lbs loosening torque. Got the pully bolt off my Honda Pilot crank easily.

JohnDThompson 

Pro tip: you can often find bikes with Ashtabula-type cranks using the 5/16" balls on the curbside, set out for trash pick-up, often kiddie bikes with 16" or 20" wheels.

2_i 

My tendency is to install self-extracting bolts into all cranks under my care, to limit anxiety around using crank extractors. In the past, a much respected shop in my area stripped threads in my beloved TA Zephyr crankset, at the time when these were already only available for the price of a house on Ebay. I put a Koolstop Chain Disk there, so I had to take off the self-extracting bolt, leading to that disaster.

Joe T

I combed the neighborhood for kids' bikes, but no luck. Finallly used a thumbscrew (like the ones you often find on PC housings) as a 'adapter". All it takes it a dab of grease to hold it in place. Works perfectly!