linnefaulk

Beautiful! I love the satin finish.

Jaeger99

^^^ To tell you the truth, she bought it, so I don't know the precise number. I know that there were a couple Electras that the sales guy showed us with prices quoted in the CDN$600 - $700 range, and I know she got 10% off the bike itself and a few accessories that she picked up, but I don't know the exact starting point.

If I get home first tonight, I'll be sneaking this out for a nice easy ride.
@linnefaulk - thanks!

streetstomper

Your location says SoCal. If you're near LA, there's a 21-speed Townie on eBay ending in four days, currently at $217. Might not go too much higher since it's pickup only in Cypress, no shipping.

streetstomper

If I had to guess, I'd say the winning bid will stay below $400, maybe $450 worst case, based on previous auctions. Don't know if that's too rich for your blood. Don't get in a bidding war. It's not worth more than that.

howeeee

I have ridden many vintage step through bicycles, they always feel small and cramped to me.
I am 5' 9"

browngw 

My "step thru" is pretty speedy.

streetstomper

There's also a step-through 2013 7-speed Townie near Cienega listed for $350 on Craigslist.

streetstomper

You may have more luck listing your bike on Craigslist. $300 might be more than that's worth.

streetstomper

Higher end bikes hold their resale value a bit better. The lower end is flooded with competition. Sort of like how PCs can be bought dirt cheap after a few years while Macs still command good prices after the same interval.

streetstomper

See how much you can get that 21-speed Townie on eBay for. If you can get it for $350, then ponying up $100 over the sale price of your Trek would be a decent deal. As Jaeger wrote above, crank forward bikes are quite comfortable and fun. $100 is a low price for enjoying bicycling more. Since the seat is basically at butt height, getting on and off is pretty easy. If you can swing a leg even just a little bit up over the back wheel, you're good to go.

Schwinnhund

I have a bad hip, so I really love Mixte frames. A Mixte frame is not a 'girls' bike. Girls frames have just one downtube going to the bottom bracket and are very weak. They were originally made for women to be able to ride wearing a skirt, without flashing to much...charm, shall we say. A Mixte frame is two tubes, just like a diamond frame, only the top tube has a less acute angle, allowing you to 'step-through' rather than climbing over. They are just as strong as a standard diamond frame, and only a little less stiff. Unless you are a racer, you won't mind the difference.

I have a Giant Rincon with a Mixte frame that I love for riding in town. It makes life in the saddle a lot easier for an old coot like me......

streetstomper

So did you get a bike? I notice the Electra on eBay sold for only $327.

browngw 

I like it. I'm building up a similar 1976 Record Mixte as a 5speed for my self. I sold a similar Raleigh a few weeks ago for $180. It looks like a 21" frame.

streetstomper

It won't be as comfortable as a crank forward and you won't get the safety of being able to put your feet down without getting off the saddle, but it's your choice to make if entry/exit ease is your priority. Just be careful with these vintage bikes. They may have mechanical problems which can increase the time and cost of getting it on the road. That's based on the assumption that being a casual cyclist, you don't have the skills, tools and spare parts to rebuild and repair your own bike like browngw.

It looks like a low-end bike to begin with. For instance, I see stamped steel dropouts rather than forged. Probably cost about the same as the asking price when it was new. There's rust and pitting on the handlebars and other steel parts. If you're used to indexed shifting, you'll have to learn how to use friction shifters. That's not fun, and especially not with stem shifters. You may need to take it to a shop for a full overhaul. It's like buying a classic Mustang that's been sitting in a garage for 30 years. If you like classics and know how to restore it into a collectible, it'll be fine. But if you just want a car to drive, it won't have the performance, emissions control and amenities of even a cheap late-model used car. No air bags, AC, automatic transmission, power windows, catalytic converter, fuel injection, etc.

In terms of eBay, if you won't be there to bid at the end, bid the highest amount you're willing to pay, not just enough to beat the current bidders.

streetstomper

Here are decent candidates:

https://losangeles.en.craigslist.org/...587738123.html

Looks like a good, stiff aluminum frame, so no risk of rust. Check under the rubber boots on the suspension fork, since the stanchions are probably chromed steel and there may be rust there. Make sure the bolts are tightened properly (but not overtightened) on the adjustable stem, since you don't want it loosening up and giving way at the wrong moment. I would Loctite those bolts. Looks like it has a suspension seatpost in addition to suspension fork, but no threadless stem. The tires appear to be smooth-rolling road tread rather than knobbies. Specialized is a quality brand.

WOMEN'S ? - - - - - TREK (17") - - - - - - ? Hybrid

It's a little old, ’90s vintage, but Trek is a good brand as you know since you have one. Kind of pricey, so see if you can negotiate the price down. Looks like a steel frame, though, so check it thoroughly for rust. When it comes time to replace the tires, get the widest that will fit for a more comfortable ride, probably 38mm.

https://losangeles.en.craigslist.org/...587841127.html

The light blue one. But the seller may want more than you want to pay, since he's cagey about the price.

SCHWINN HYBRID LADIES

Same caveats as for the Specialized. At tire replacement time, ditch the knobbies and get some fat road tires.

Bionicycle

I've been an advocate/proponent of males riding "Step Through" frames and particularly "Mixtes" for about the last five years. Two lower back surgeries a left hip replacement and bad knees went a long way to convince me that the "Macho got to have a top tube" crowd won't keep me from riding for pleasure, or health benefits. Here's a photo of mine, since this photo I've replaced the front crank with a triple, and put new chrome handle bars and a different rear rack on it. I wish I could ride more often then I do, but it is one of the most fun to ride bikes I've had since I was a child.

first trip

hi i have a need for knowledge advice. I have a stepthrough and the kick stand is too weak . i carry a lot of baggage. since there is a cable in the place where a central kick stand would go how can i install one?

dweenk

Try one of these. I like them.
https://www.sunandski.com/p/77470575...QaAvR3EALw_wcB

first trip

thx it is said to be tough. do you feel it is strudy? hard to bend

dweenk

I find them more stable than stands mounted behind the bottom bracket. They are aluminum, so they don't rust and will not bend. I have 3 of them and would not buy anything else - plus they are inexpensive.

Vintage Schwinn

Hey, if you're not opposed riding something really OLD and weighing about 40 pounds, you will find an excellent STEP-THROUGH bicycle in the 1970 through 1977 SCHWINN COLLEGIATE five speeds - and- the 1970 - 1977 Schwinn SUBURBAN 5 speed.

They are probably among the most durable bicycles that have ever been built.
Shimano rear derailleur (GT-100 ....for 1970 - 1973 and GT-120 ....for 1974 - 1977)
just FIVE SPEEDS , so no front derailleur
46 teeth on the FRONT one Piece Ashtabula Crank......................the shimano (MODEL J) freewheel with 32, 26, 21, 17, 14 that gives you pretty decent LOW GEAR if you need to climb any hills.
You want the 1970 and later models BECAUSE the 1964-1969 COLLEGIATE has a Huret rear derailleur and has (Model F) 28, 24, 20, 16, 14 which isn't as useful on Hills. The HURET rear derailleur is not the quality of the Shimano built GT-100 or Shimano built GT-120
Generally if you UPGRADE the '69 and earlier to a good derailleur like the Shimano Skylark/Shimano Eagle or GT-120 or GT-100 or a Maeda(SUNTOUR) unit from the seventies, you'll have a GREAT Bike, though with the limitation of the 28 rear cog being the lowest gear on the Model F freewheel.

https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1973_22.html

https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1974_24.html

https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1973_20.html

Shimano built SCHWINN APPROVED GT-100 (1970 - 1973) disraeli gears is wrong, as the GT-100 can do at least 32 MAX COG......as can the later GT-120..
Schwinn GT100 derailleur

The Schwinn Approved GT-100 derailleur


Shimano built SCHWINN APPROVED GT-120 (1974 -1977) has the Limit screws in the Typical Seventies era Shimano location .....can do at least 32 MAX COG
Schwinn GT120 derailleur
Exploded view of the GT-120 can be found at https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-derailer.html


See Also this on Shimano rear derailleurs of the seventies
Shimano derailleurs - from Skylark to world domination

The ONE-PIECE ASHTABULA FORGED STEEL CRANK is UNBREAKABLE
NEW #64 Caged Bearings cost just $2 at a local bike shop not too distant from me ( I get them from Phil Cohen's CHAIN REACTION in Evans GA)
Phil has tons of them in stock since he has a huge clientele, some very wealthy city folks who buy very expensive bikes, but Phil knows something about customer service that most folks have sadly forgotten. He has a great store. He also has a lot of customers that live in rural areas that ride older less expensive, common bicycles.
REPLACING AND REGREASING The #64 caged bearings is so simple that any 11 year old kid can do it.
How to remove and re grease BB on a '75 Varsity. Askin' the Experts
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html

Adjusting the REAR DERAILLEUR (GT-100 or GT-120 or any other Shimano Skylark / Shimano Eagle from the seventies is extremely simple)
Brake Cable replacement is Simple. Replacing the Shift Cable is Simple........................SERVICING THE HEADSET/Front Fork bearings/races is SUPER SIMPLE TOO because you've got caged bearings there too.
...........You've got plenty of Height adjustment on the seatpost........................You've Got plenty of Height adjustability on the stem too....
As for the 13/16" diameter seatpost with the 5/8" top portion.....................WALD makes several seatpost models in various lengths with a 7/8" top portion instead of 5/8" but you still get the 13/16" seat post diameter..............cost of such new WALD models costs between $6 and $14 depending on length and which major online bike shop that you source them from.

These "Weighty" Schwinn step-through COLLEGIATE/SUBURBAN five speeds of the Seventies can probably carry a 300 pound fat guy with ease.
Sure they weigh 40 pounds and the chrome steel wheels require a hope and prayer if you're riding in the rain and need to stop while going downhill, but they are among the most durable bicycles ever made. They ride very nice. The 32 tooth Low Gear Cog allows it to Climb Hills. It won't have the speed that perhaps something else has, and it will be heavier, but nothing else will match it in durability and simplicity. The ride quality is great too.
The Electra Townie weighs close to 34 pounds so that isn't exactly a light bicycle.
The Collegiates and Suburbans in STEP-THROUGH (Ladies configuration) are available in at least three frame sizes that the largest (21") can easily accomodate most 6'-3" men. They can, I believe handle a fat guy that is north of 300 pounds, as the electro-forged frame is stronger than most all steel frames and those old Schwinn steel wheels can handle big old fat Bubba too.... Not only Stay Thin, Ride A Schwinn, but fat ol Bubba can get thin while riding a Schwinn.............he'll have a wide enough range of gearing with the 5 gears there.

Yeah, the "cool factor" ain't there if you're talking 'bout the Rodney Dangerfield of the bicycle world. Chicago's finest had a lot more thought in those bicycles than most of you realize. There is a reason that the 1966 and later Schwinn stems are of a smaller than the typical industry standard seen on '65 and before.......THE HEADTUBE WAS STRENGTHENED WITH THICKER WALLS, thus requiring a slightly smaller stem diameter................THIS STRONGER HEADTUBE made the bicycle stronger than before...............Schwinn produced a quality general purpose bicycle....................They never got it together as far as a lightweight competitive lineup, though the Panasonic models made in Japan and badged as Schwinns were from 1972 onward.......Schwinn World Voyageur, Schwinn Voyageur II and others. The Paramount was a hand built CHICAGO Schwinn that was great for those wanting something racey and light enough for the era, but the Paramount's cost was beyond the pocketbook of most youthful athletic types in the Seventies.
ON THE SUBJECT OF THE SCHWINN PARAMOUNT, They did make a really really nice Women's (step -through) PARAMOUNT in both 10 speed and 15 speed varieties in 1973 and 1974. I'll post a link with picture later. If you find one and it doesn't cost much......buy it.........folks might just figure it is just a Schwinn Continental or Super Sport.......or some fancy Varsity variant.....

Vintage Schwinn

here are links to the Women's DELUXE TOURING PARAMOUNT
https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1973_18.html

https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1974_20.html




I think there are a large number of early eighties JAPANESE made WOMEN's frame Road bikes in Upright Tourist Configuration that will be LIGHT ENOUGH and may have aluminum wheels and Ten or Twelve Speeds and likely in the (28.5 pound to 30.5 pound Weight Range) if you want something speedy, somewhat comfortable unless you're really a fat guy. They are durable..............think FUJI , PANASONIC, are nice and other Japanese are good.........even non Japanese, like Peugeot can be really decent though not as good, Taiwan's GIANT made aren't bad, and Raleigh and RaleighUSA made some decent step-throughs that are relatively light for women's models of the era.
I still think that for basic functionality, simplicity and comfort, The 5 speed Suburbans and Collegiates of the SEVENTIES in Ladies STEP-THROUGH frames are impossible to beat IF BICYCLE WEIGHT IS NOT AN ISSUE FOR YOUR RIDING CONDITIONS. These ancient Schwinns, I think can handle a really fat guy, which I don't think many of the other bicycles can. I haven't tested that theory, it is simply based on my thoughts on the Electro-forged frame.
I'm not saying that everyone should want to own an old Schwinn.
I am simply presenting what I believe might be an acceptable alternative to some of the late model, new bike makes that have been mentioned with this thread, if a person wishes to consider something very old and vintage.

browngw 

Recently sold this very well made 1974 Sekine step through. Alloys bars stem fenders etc. and weighed in at around 24lbs with kickstand and pedals. It was a lovely bike and the young lady who purchased it was beaming as she test rode it!

Wildwood 

Looking to buy a large vintage mixte for 6' humans.
Complete bikes, framesets with headset considered.
Original paint with no upgrades preferred.
Cheap appreciated.

Driving from Seattle to Nashville soon - northern route.
Definitely dropping through Lincoln/Omaha Nebraska.

Will post this in C&V For Sale / WTB, too.
Put it here because a bunch of you geezers don't consider yourself C&V in transport / sport / hobbies.

zarbog

My wife and I had matching Sekine's just like that one, mine was the mens style, around the same year. Both were 5 speed. Had rock hard grips but they would coast faster than our friends CCM's would pedal.