Used Trek 520 — what to look out for
#51
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#52
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My wheel builder will replace the SonDelux with a 28 on the build sheet. Hopefully this will not delay the build more than a few days. The opening of the riding season is still a few months away in AZ (we expect 116 degrees later today) unless one drives up into the mountains.
In the meantime, I removed the BB and luckily it shows not rust. The bike lived its entire life in AZ, although the original owner told me he took at least one road in Belgium with it.
The frame is now stripped. For some reason, I could not remove the drop tube cable guides; oh, well. Want to treat the inside with rust protection, but could not source Frame Saver, so I bought what seemed like an alternative (I was sucked in by claim that it was developed by Boeing).
Still waiting for parts and a few tools, then hopefully next week can build up everything. The wheels should arrive mid-August.
In the meantime, I removed the BB and luckily it shows not rust. The bike lived its entire life in AZ, although the original owner told me he took at least one road in Belgium with it.
The frame is now stripped. For some reason, I could not remove the drop tube cable guides; oh, well. Want to treat the inside with rust protection, but could not source Frame Saver, so I bought what seemed like an alternative (I was sucked in by claim that it was developed by Boeing).
Still waiting for parts and a few tools, then hopefully next week can build up everything. The wheels should arrive mid-August.
Last edited by koenbro; 07-31-20 at 01:08 PM.
#54
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Thread Starter
Chain, cables, shifter recommendations please.
What chain should I buy for my new setup, and what shifter/brake cable/housing set? I would like to keep the option open to upgrade to a 3 x 9 driveset.
Also any recommendation for brake levers and brifters? Not too hot on barends.
Also any recommendation for brake levers and brifters? Not too hot on barends.
#55
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Not sure why you did not remove the chain. Newer bikes usually have a quick link that can be split in half. Is this bike so old that it does not have a quick link? If you are not sure what a quick link looks like, google it.
Chain, there are many made my several manufacturers. If you get 9 speed later, you will need a 9 speed chain, if you stick with 7 speed, a chain for 7 or 8 speed is what you want.
You are asking a lot questions on stuff that is personal preference when it comes to shifter types. And the cables have to match the shifters.
Chain, there are many made my several manufacturers. If you get 9 speed later, you will need a 9 speed chain, if you stick with 7 speed, a chain for 7 or 8 speed is what you want.
You are asking a lot questions on stuff that is personal preference when it comes to shifter types. And the cables have to match the shifters.
#56
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Thread Starter
Chain, there are many made my several manufacturers. If you get 9 speed later, you will need a 9 speed chain, if you stick with 7 speed, a chain for 7 or 8 speed is what you want.
You are asking a lot questions on stuff that is personal preference when it comes to shifter types. And the cables have to match the shifters.
You are asking a lot questions on stuff that is personal preference when it comes to shifter types. And the cables have to match the shifters.
Last edited by koenbro; 07-31-20 at 10:53 PM.
#57
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Many of the higher end multi-tools that most bike tourists would carry have a chain tool built in. Somewhere in a tool box I have a free standing chain tool I bought decades ago, but I do not think I have used for at least a decade, instead use the chain tool on my Alien II or Crank Bros multi-tools because they are closer to hand when I need one. I am not sure when quick links for derailleur chains became common, when I worked in the bike shop in the 70s they did not exist. But the chains at that time were built differently with more parts and they weighed more. There were master links for single speed chains, but not derailleur chains at that time.
I do not recall if you ever said if you planned to use this bike for touring. If so, most people that have toured with a triple are hesitant to give it up. There are new touring bikes sold with a 3X9 system, nothing wrong with that. I have several bikes with 8 speed cassettes and triples. But I think that a hub built for 7 speed cassette is not going to work with more than 7, but I am rather ignorant of 7 speed systems so I could be wrong..
I do not recall if you ever said if you planned to use this bike for touring. If so, most people that have toured with a triple are hesitant to give it up. There are new touring bikes sold with a 3X9 system, nothing wrong with that. I have several bikes with 8 speed cassettes and triples. But I think that a hub built for 7 speed cassette is not going to work with more than 7, but I am rather ignorant of 7 speed systems so I could be wrong..
#58
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Thread Starter
The Velo Orange parcel arrived yesterday. The crank has a captive bolt and I wonder if it will be difficult to remove it; or perhaps will the bolt as its own remover?
The Bottom bracket feels sticky, needs more effort to spin than I’d expect and certainly more than the Shimano I’ve just removed. So back it goes and Will order a Shimano instead.
The Bottom bracket feels sticky, needs more effort to spin than I’d expect and certainly more than the Shimano I’ve just removed. So back it goes and Will order a Shimano instead.
#59
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Thread Starter
Why not use a two-by drivetrain for touring?
The build is still on hold, as I am waiting for the wheels. In the meantime, I returned the Velo Orange crank as it did not fit well; for some reason it was rubbing the chainstay. So I will keep the original Deore LX 46/36/26 and replace the granny gear with a Sugino 24T. The original 7 speed cassette will be replaced with a 9-speed. So the gear-inch table looks like this:
I am pleased with the bottom end at 18.6 and the 626% range, which are much improved from the stock 26 and 450% respectively.
Yet the table suggests that the middle crank cog is really unnecessary, and a 2x9 drive will do, and one can even avoid the two most misaligned combinations for each crank cog, and do well with a 14-speed range. So how come we need to use a three-by drive train for touring?
I am pleased with the bottom end at 18.6 and the 626% range, which are much improved from the stock 26 and 450% respectively.
Yet the table suggests that the middle crank cog is really unnecessary, and a 2x9 drive will do, and one can even avoid the two most misaligned combinations for each crank cog, and do well with a 14-speed range. So how come we need to use a three-by drive train for touring?
Last edited by koenbro; 08-18-20 at 01:35 PM.
#60
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Shifting from a 24 to a 46 chainring is a big jump. Can it be done, yes but it is a big jump. And after you make that shift you find that you are on the wrong end of the cassette, and you are making many shifts to get to the other end of the cassette.
Plus, having more gears with a middle chainring can be pretty nice.
On my derailleur touring bikes I am running a 46/42/24 crankset, the middle and big ring are half step. Half step gearing was common for touring several decades ago, there are still a few of us that like it. Cassette is eight speed 11/32 (11,12,14,16,18,21,26,32). I spend the vast majority of my time on the two bigger chainrings, having two gives me more gears than one big ring, thus the ability to fine time my gearing for slight change in slope or windage.
The rare times when I am shifting to or from the smallest chainring, I clearly notice that big of a jump in my gearing and have to make many shifts to compensate but I only use the 24 for the steeper hills. When I upshift off of the 24, it is to a 42 which is a big jump but not as big as up to a 46.
My road bike is a 2X10 with a compact crank (50/34), when I shift from one chainring to the other, I usually am making about three or four shifts to get the chain to the other side of the cassette.
Plus, having more gears with a middle chainring can be pretty nice.
On my derailleur touring bikes I am running a 46/42/24 crankset, the middle and big ring are half step. Half step gearing was common for touring several decades ago, there are still a few of us that like it. Cassette is eight speed 11/32 (11,12,14,16,18,21,26,32). I spend the vast majority of my time on the two bigger chainrings, having two gives me more gears than one big ring, thus the ability to fine time my gearing for slight change in slope or windage.
The rare times when I am shifting to or from the smallest chainring, I clearly notice that big of a jump in my gearing and have to make many shifts to compensate but I only use the 24 for the steeper hills. When I upshift off of the 24, it is to a 42 which is a big jump but not as big as up to a 46.
My road bike is a 2X10 with a compact crank (50/34), when I shift from one chainring to the other, I usually am making about three or four shifts to get the chain to the other side of the cassette.
#61
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Never heard of "half step" before but a quick search pointed me to Sheldon Brown's write up which was, as usual, very helpful.
Last edited by koenbro; 08-18-20 at 06:59 PM.
#62
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This makes a lot of sense and explains it. Thank you. One way to avoid this would be some kind of an electronic shifter that would optimize (change 2-3-4 steps) the cassette cog if you jump from one chain ring to the other.
Never heard of "half step" before but a quick search pointed me to Sheldon Brown's write up which was, as usual, very helpful.
Never heard of "half step" before but a quick search pointed me to Sheldon Brown's write up which was, as usual, very helpful.
And for touring you want a really wide range of gearing, wider than typical for most roadies. For example, I think most experienced touring riders are sticking with triple cranks when many major manufacturers are trying to get rid of triples.
I found half step plus granny to work poorly in some situations like Pacific Coast where the grade was changing frequently enough that you were never in the right gear, but nothing else would have been much of an improvement. And half step was great when I toured in South Florida where it was so flat that I almost always was in one of three gears that were very close to each other, it was very easy to fine tune my gearing for the windage.
#63
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Thread Starter
Making progress
After a long wait for the wheels, they arrived and look great. A big shout out and thanks to prowheelbuilder!
So I put together the parts and after some difficulty with the drive line (the original 118mm BB was too wide, but a 113mm works and shifts well - thanks to my LBS Bicycle Ranch), have made rapid progress. I was able to ride it today for the first time to test shifting.
Will have to add the fenders, a front rack, wire up the dynamo hub and add an attachment for my Wahoo bolt.
Getting close.
So I put together the parts and after some difficulty with the drive line (the original 118mm BB was too wide, but a 113mm works and shifts well - thanks to my LBS Bicycle Ranch), have made rapid progress. I was able to ride it today for the first time to test shifting.
Will have to add the fenders, a front rack, wire up the dynamo hub and add an attachment for my Wahoo bolt.
Getting close.
Last edited by koenbro; 09-09-20 at 03:05 AM.
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#64
Junior Member
That's some great work. I just picked up a used 520. I've been looking for the right one honestly for 5 years.
My problem is it's so clean that I feel like I need to preserve it!
My problem is it's so clean that I feel like I need to preserve it!
#65
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Thread Starter
What a beautiful bike! Congratulations, that is quite a find. What year is it from?
The color is great, and you have matching fenders and a rack. If it shifts well, i’d just put new tires and brake pads, your favorite saddle, and call it good.
#66
Junior Member
A lot of people have recommended that I change the crank and I do see the benefits but honestly I really like the gearing as is. I have a long haul trucker with smaller gearing so I don’t feel like I need to change it.
I think what you have going is a really great blend between old and new.
Last edited by kidadam; 09-10-20 at 06:25 PM.
#67
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Thread Starter
Thanks, I became interested in the classic randonneur look, but could not budget for a true custom, so decided to restomod the 1994 Trek.
Last edited by koenbro; 09-10-20 at 10:39 PM.
#68
Senior Member
I had one of these and the BB cup (if not the bushing) was also plastic. Could not get it off in any manner. Threw the frame away
#69
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Thread Starter
If anyone cares, here is the breakdown of components (and costs) for my build. In brief this is a $2800 bike (2100 without electronics) that weighs about 25 lbs. The gear range is 18.6 - 117 gear-inches (or 626%).
Last edited by koenbro; 09-12-20 at 06:52 AM.
#70
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Very pleased with how it came out. Still waiting for the front rack and then will also install the mud guards.
#71
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Last edited by ilikebikes; 10-02-20 at 08:55 AM.
#72
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It looks like you are using an older style rear Shimano brifter where the shift cable extends sideways to where your handlebar bag will be.
If that cable does interfere with a handlebar bag, that happened to a friend of mine. He used a V brake noodle to re-route the cable downwards and out of the way, photo below.
If you are using a handlebar bag, make sure that your shifter does not interfere with the bag. Photo below, mine comes close, but not a problem.
And front shifter, not sure how you are doing that. But I am sure I will see that later.
If that cable does interfere with a handlebar bag, that happened to a friend of mine. He used a V brake noodle to re-route the cable downwards and out of the way, photo below.
If you are using a handlebar bag, make sure that your shifter does not interfere with the bag. Photo below, mine comes close, but not a problem.
And front shifter, not sure how you are doing that. But I am sure I will see that later.
#73
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It looks like you are using an older style rear Shimano brifter where the shift cable extends sideways to where your handlebar bag will be.
If that cable does interfere with a handlebar bag, that happened to a friend of mine. He used a V brake noodle to re-route the cable downwards and out of the way, photo below.
If you are using a handlebar bag, make sure that your shifter does not interfere with the bag. Photo below, mine comes close, but not a problem.
And front shifter, not sure how you are doing that. But I am sure I will see that later.
If that cable does interfere with a handlebar bag, that happened to a friend of mine. He used a V brake noodle to re-route the cable downwards and out of the way, photo below.
If you are using a handlebar bag, make sure that your shifter does not interfere with the bag. Photo below, mine comes close, but not a problem.
And front shifter, not sure how you are doing that. But I am sure I will see that later.
#74
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Thread Starter
Do you know what year is it from? Mine is a 1994 but your frame looks very different.
#75
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1986, not sure about the gearing...☺️
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You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve
You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve