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Old 11-22-19, 07:52 PM
  #26  
wolfchild
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Originally Posted by redlude97
did you look at the link i posted? Or just google sweat corrosion on trainers, people have damaged bars, stems, even BB areas on aluminum frames from sweat

the damage is most common under bar tape where it can't be wiped off and is allowed to sit and not evaporate as quickly
I just don't see how sweat can be more corrosive to bike frames and components than road salt and de-icing chemicals which my bikes have been exposed to many times and show no signs of corrosion.
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Old 11-24-19, 11:03 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by am0n
Now that the cold months are upon me, going to set up my bike in the basement with the trainer. Looking for some additional advice on making sure the bike isn't destroyed in the process.
Don't over think it.

From reading, the Climbing Blocks are higher than Leveling Blocks, correct? So if my intent is to just level the bike and maybe secure the front tire (was using two pieces of wood, but then the tire turns), I should just go with the Leveling Block, sound about right?
Level.

I've read sweat is a big problem so suggestions are: Go shirtless, have a fan or two blowing on you... after that I've seen a few suggestions for protecting the bike.
Shirtless will make bigger puddles than wearing a cycling jersey that catches torso drips and isn't any more comfortable than a nice breezy summer jersey.

Use the most powerful fans possible. Think industrial air circulators, not plastic box fans.

Put a training mat beneath your bike. That will protect your flooring from sweat and mean less noise transfers to the rest of your home.

Sounds like buy a bunch of huck towels and drape one over each handle bar, over the headset, over the top tube and someone suggested sticking one in the back of your shorts to catch any back sweat that drips down. Then I've also read about saran wrapping stuff. What is that all about?
The inside of your stem bolt Allen head will get surface rust, although you're not going to get sweat inside anything that matters.

Your bar tape would get gross, but you're probably going to ride on your rubber hoods that are conveniently water proof.

Don't over think it.

I've also read to not ride out of the saddle as it puts odd torques on the bike when mounted to the trainer. Sound about right?
You're not going to put a load on it anything like going over a bump while cornering. It'll be fine.

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 11-24-19 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 11-25-19, 10:19 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by hubcyclist
If only it were that simple lol I open my basement window to get into the mid to low 50's and I still run 3 fans (2 lasko pros, the defacto gold standard for indoor training, and a lasko cyclone which isn't as good) and I'm still sweating from the effort. Don't get me wrong, the fans help big time for my core and the sweat evaporates pretty well there, but my head sure gets sweaty. Just for context, and interval where I'm doing 260w is giving off 3 times as much in heat (780w)

I keep a towel handy and during rest intervals wipe the bike as I go along. If I'm dripping a bit more than usual I just drape my hand towel over the stem but I'm usually not and can just wipe my brow.
50? I thought you had cold temps...we're expecting -5 this Friday LOL
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Old 11-25-19, 11:04 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by I.B.Roots
50? I thought you had cold temps...we're expecting -5 this Friday LOL
That's indoor basement temp in my finished basement, we've had a few mornings in the teens here in the Boston area. My basement can get into the upper 40's during the winter, at least that's as low as I can remember. It's definitely a lot more bearable than when my indoor temp goes over 65
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Old 11-25-19, 11:43 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by wolfchild
I just don't see how sweat can be more corrosive to bike frames and components than road salt and de-icing chemicals which my bikes have been exposed to many times and show no signs of corrosion.
likely your bike has paint, whereas bars and stems are anodized which is usually a pretty thin layer. The shifters can nick the alumimum near the drops which exposes bare aluminum that makes them susceptible to corrosion, and bar tape holds moisture and salt against those parts for extended periods of time often likely not ever drying off if someone is doing trainer sessions daily. Finally galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals(and carbon) in contact speeds up the process exponentially.
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Old 11-25-19, 12:00 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by am0n
I've read sweat is a big problem so suggestions are: Go shirtless, have a fan or two blowing on you... after that I've seen a few suggestions for protecting the bike. Sounds like buy a bunch of huck towels and drape one over each handle bar, over the headset, over the top tube and someone suggested sticking one in the back of your shorts to catch any back sweat that drips down. Then I've also read about saran wrapping stuff. What is that all about?
Depending on your body chemistry, sweat can be very corrosive and a few towels to protect metal ferrules, brakes, etc where your sweat runs is a good idea. I had major issues with corrosion the first winter I rode indoors, but the problems went away with a few well placed rags and wiping down the bike after each trainer session. Pay special attention to the seat post, and give the bike a thorough cleaning after several hours of use, just like you would riding outside.

YMMV, but I've found that a very thin summer jersey or gillet is cooler than riding with no shirt at all. It helps wick moisture away from the skin and has a cooling effect. FWIW, I grew up and live on a farm in the delta/swamp, and old timers have always known that a ventilated hat and a thin shirt are cooler than running around shirtless.
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Old 11-25-19, 12:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
likely your bike has paint, whereas bars and stems are anodized which is usually a pretty thin layer. The shifters can nick the alumimum near the drops which exposes bare aluminum that makes them susceptible to corrosion, and bar tape holds moisture and salt against those parts for extended periods of time often likely not ever drying off if someone is doing trainer sessions daily. Finally galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals(and carbon) in contact speeds up the process exponentially.
The galvanic table:The further apart on this list are metals which are touching, the worse the corrosion. The first item on the list is Graphite, which is "a polymorph of the element carbon." Graphite is what's actually used in what we call "carbon frames." Notice how far away aluminum is from graphite, and also notice how close together steel and aluminum are. Therefore a steel bike with aluminum components makes a more corrosion resistant combo than does a carbon bike with aluminum components. A carbon stem with aluminum bars, or an aluminum stem with carbon bars can be an issue. In all cases it's the thing which is not carbon which gets eaten.
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Old 11-25-19, 12:47 PM
  #33  
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I had to destroy a Al seatpost that got galvanically welded into a carbon frame. I don't know if it was exacerbated by getting some sweat wicking into the interface, but that seems like a possibility.
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Old 11-25-19, 04:00 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by hubcyclist
That's indoor basement temp in my finished basement, we've had a few mornings in the teens here in the Boston area. My basement can get into the upper 40's during the winter, at least that's as low as I can remember. It's definitely a lot more bearable than when my indoor temp goes over 65
I'm just north of you a bit, near the NH border. My basement isn't finished, but probably in the 50s as well with the dehumidifier running.
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Old 11-29-19, 09:32 AM
  #35  
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For Better Training Just Go Outside.
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Old 11-29-19, 06:46 PM
  #36  
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Everyone says go outside, try that on an icy roads/trails at -10 to 20 degrees without the wind, you will find its better to be inside with a fan and a window cracked on Zwift.

Temperatures aside the danger of slipping and hurting yourself is a risk I prefer not to chance. I ride in the winter when the temps are decent and the roads are CLEAR, but not otherwise. Also cars slip too, slip into stuff, poles, cars, cyclists.

I cover the bike from my sweat on the indoor bike, sweat tears up stuff so bad on the trainer. Its gross too. Towels work fine, I buy them cheap from where ever and have my wife cut them 1/2 and hem them. Get more towels that way.
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Old 12-05-19, 06:58 AM
  #37  
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[QUOTE=am0n;21217900]

Perks to using one of those thongs/guards versus just draping a towel over the TT and headset? ]/QUOTE]

I do both
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Old 12-05-19, 08:12 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by freakylipsey
For Better Training Just Go Outside.
That is very wrong.
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Old 12-05-19, 11:29 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jadocs
That is very wrong.
Thank you for your deep analysis.
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Old 12-05-19, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bbbean
Thank you for your deep analysis.
You disagree? Let’s hear it.
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Old 12-05-19, 12:46 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by jadocs
You disagree? Let’s hear it.
How could I challenge your well argued point?
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Old 12-05-19, 01:06 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jadocs
That is very wrong.
Originally Posted by bbbean
Thank you for your deep analysis.
IMO his succinct comment was sufficient to cover everything relevant. What more did you want exactly?
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Old 12-05-19, 01:50 PM
  #43  
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Oh, OK. In the PNW where I live (and I think not everyone lives in CA or the deep south), using my resistance rollers in winter, and in summer when it's raining, is much more productive if one counts all the time spent dressing, undressing, cleaning, lubing, etc. The single I use on my rollers never flats, never needs cleaning or lube. I put on a T-shirt, shorts, socks, gloves, and shoes and ride. When I'm done, I change into my civvies. So there's that.

Further, the actual time spent on the rollers is better training. There's no moment when I'm not fulfilling a very specific training goal. There are no stop signs, traffic lights, or indeed any reason not to pedal the entire time, especially since there is no coasting, only climbing or flats. Plus the rollers improve my spin, balance, and bike handling. Yesterday I warmed up for 15', then did 45' continuously in Z3, no breaks no letting off, just steady as possible at 144w. I know, not much, but it is what it is. Legs hurt like the very devil at the end. Not bad for a total of 1:15 spent messing with the bike and clothing. Today is another hour, but steady-state Z2, only 131w. Tomorrow I'll do my very first FTP test with my new PM using the CTS Field Test, right here in my 50° shop with a big fan blowing on my T-shirt. Then a day off, then out on the wet roads for a 40 mile group ride.

In good spring and summer weather, I get out for at least one midweek ride, but still do specific work indoors on the rollers, usually just an hour of steady VT1 work. So that's how I've been doing it here for over 20 years. Yes, I've gotten very good results from fulfilling specific training goals every time I get on the bike.
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Old 12-05-19, 02:26 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by OBoile
IMO his succinct comment was sufficient to cover everything relevant. What more did you want exactly?
As was mine. What more do you want exactly?
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Old 12-05-19, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bbbean
As was mine. What more do you want exactly?
Touche.
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Old 02-06-20, 04:01 PM
  #46  
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I just use a stack of books to raise the front wheel to the desired height, typically with a little incline, or I add another book if I'm doing out of the saddle training. Pretty soon we'll all have Lazy Susan's under the front wheel to take advantage of the steering capabilities currently being rolled out by Zwift.
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Old 02-11-20, 03:12 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by am0n
Now that the cold months are upon me, going to set up my bike in the basement with the trainer. Looking for some additional advice on making sure the bike isn't destroyed in the process.
What's you general maintenance routine? Keep it? I wash my bike every month or so compared to every two to three weeks.

Originally Posted by am0n
From reading, the Climbing Blocks are higher than Leveling Blocks, correct? So if my intent is to just level the bike and maybe secure the front tire (was using two pieces of wood, but then the tire turns), I should just go with the Leveling Block, sound about right?
They are generally trainer specific. Only seen Tacx and Wahoo for leveling blocks. Get the one specific for your trainer if you want it level but a few degree of tilt is not going to kill you. Phone books (old textbooks) work just as well. Either block will still turn when you turn the front wheel.

Originally Posted by am0n
after that I've seen a few suggestions for protecting the bike. Sounds like buy a bunch of huck towels and drape one over each handle bar, over the headset, over the top tube and someone suggested sticking one in the back of your shorts to catch any back sweat that drips down. Then I've also read about saran wrapping stuff. What is that all about?
I use a shop towel to wrap around the headset and another around the front brakes. I also use a bike bra. The only saran wrap I use is over my Ant+ dongle. I keep a towel handy to wipe my face. I would not recommend anything for the rear of the bike just in case it get into the drive train.

Originally Posted by am0n
I've also read to not ride out of the saddle as it puts odd torques on the bike when mounted to the trainer. Sound about right?
Yes but haven't broke or damaged any of my bikes. My first trainer was in 1988 and that caution was floating around then. My 2 cents, don't fall over and you'll be fine.
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