drjdan

I have a 2013 Cannondale Synapse carbon 3 ordered. I will be using for group rides in the 15-50 mile range. It comes with a low end wheel set. Not going to do any racing. May expand to to a century at some point.

I plan to upgrade the wheel set when it comes in. How much should send on a wheel set upgrade for a $3,000 bike? the best I can tell the wheels are wheel set that comes on the bike is about a $300 set.

McFlurrey06

As much as you are comfortable spending. You can talk to a few wheel builders here*Boyd* and end up with a great pair, or find something on the various LBS and websites that you have access to.

bonz50

my riding partner bought that same bike this year, honestly, what are you expecting to gain from the swap? the stock wheels seem to be pretty nice actually. unless you are lookin to spend some pretty big dollars I don't think you'll see much of a measurable difference. if you have the cash, just get a power meter rear hoop and proceed to pedal pedal.

Carbon Unit

It depends on what you want to get from your wheels. Wheels can make more of a difference than any upgrade you can do. I wanted wheels that were smooth and easy on long rides. I traded in a broken set of the first generation Topolino wheels for new Topolinos which have carbon fiber / kevlar spokes and hubs. They make the road feel like riding on glass. It was a huge difference in ride quality from the CXP33s that I had been using, but Topolinos are not cheap. However, if I bought a second bike, I would buy another set even if it cost me more.

johnny99

$300 wheels should be fine for 50 mile recreational rides in Texas if you are average weight. If you get into race training (above 20mph average speed) or mountain climbing (thousands of feet of climbing at maximum speed), then more aero and/or lighter weight wheels may make a noticeable difference. If you are heavy enough that you kill your current wheels, then you can think about getting something sturdier as replacements.

Andy_K 

I realize this is the orthodox position, but I think it needs a bit of qualification (and perhaps refutation in the process). Perhaps some of this will even give useful input to the OP's question.

Things you can gain from a wheel upgrade:

1. Reduced weight
2. Better aerodynamics
3. Durability
4. Smoother spinning
5. Bling
6. Tubular compatibility

I'm sure I'm missing something, but those are the one's I can think of off the top of my head. So let's talk about them.

1. Reduced weight

This matters on climbs and sprints. I know greater retro grouches than myself will dispute that, but I'm willing to grant it as a fact. The thing is, a typical $300 wheelset such as the OP will be starting with weighs around 1800 grams, while a $500 wheelset will weigh around 1500 grams. What's more, the weight savings here general comes at the hub so the old adage about wheel weight counting double is nullified. Plus, I'm inclined to believe that it comes at the expense of durability. On the other hand, if you spend somewhere in the $1000 range and get carbon rims you might end up with wheels closer to 1200 grams, and a lot of that is real rotating mass. Again, durability is a potential negative, though I won't introduce the exploding carbon theory. As a cheaper alternative to shed a similar amount of weight, consider carrying only one water bottle.


2. Better aerodynamics

Once again, I acknowledge this as a real, measurable effect. However, I will claim that it only really matters if you're going really fast and aren't drafting someone. If you're planning on time trialing, this is the upgrade to focus on. If, on the other hand, you're just planning to do group rides -- even fast group rides -- I question the value. I would also note that like weight, you have to spend a lot to get big aerodynamic payback (especially without incurring huge weight penalties). A 30mm aluminum rim may look cool (and it will be extremely strong), but the aerodynamic benefit is debatable. Once again, I think if this is the benefit you're chasing a $1000+ budget is in order. Alternatively, a pointy helmet will give you more aero benefit for around $200, though it may draw ridicule on a group ride.


3. Durability

In my opinion, this should be the number one reason for most riders to upgrade their wheels. A good hand-built wheelset will survive the apocalypse and may be used again when the cockroaches evolve to the point of riding bikes. Happily, you can get a set of wheels for around $300 that will last as long as anything more expensive. It might not be superlight. It might not turn heads. I might not even be aerodynamic, but it will stay true and keep you riding. The downside is, as long as your stock wheels are true and aren't break spokes, you may not notice a difference in ride quality. Also, your peers at a group ride may look down upon your sturdy $300 wheelset. They may even continue looking down upon them 15 years from now when you're still using them.


4. Smoother spinning

I'm not sure about this one. I've never seen a hub that spins better than a freshly overhauled Tiagra. If you upgrade your wheels and the new ones spin noticeably better, your old ones probably needed maintenance. And since we're talking upgrade here, let's look at the flip side of this -- hub noise. I hate hub noise. Too may fancy rear hubs sound like they should only be brought out on New Year's Eve. Shimano hubs are a notable exception. They're also the boat anchors. Personally, I'm happy to make that trade off. For my money, Shimano hubs are the cat's pajamas for smooth spinning, ease of maintenance and blessed quietness. I'd also note that the difference in this regard from Tiagra to Ultegra is minimal. Dura-Ace may be another matter.


5. Bling

Let's face it, this is the real reason most people spend a ton of dough on fancy wheels. So here's a test. Take a picture of your bike. Is the stem slammed? Is the seat high? Is the chain on the big ring and the small cog? Are the cranks level? If you answered 'yes' to all of these questions, then you probably need some $1000 wheels. If not, you probably don't.


6. Tubular compatibility

Full disclosure: I've never ridden a bike with tubulars or even tubeless. That said, I hear great things about them. The magical feel of tubulars is apparently transcendent. It's probably not better than 28mm tires at under 100 psi, but I'm sure it's great. Supposedly it also improve bike handling. If I were a Cat 1 racer, I'd be riding on tubbies. I'm not, so I'm not.


So, returning to the original question, how much should you spend on a wheel upgrade. I offer this simple algorithm:

Do you weigh less than 185 pounds?
-- Yes -> Do you plan on racing?
----- Yes -> Are you an elite racer?
-------- Yes -> Spend $1000+ on a set of deep section carbon wheels and consider getting some ultra-light low-profile wheels too. Also, upgrade your bike.
-------- No -> If you feel you must, spend $1000+ on a set of deep section carbon wheels, but some lightweight $500 clinchers are probably sufficient.
----- No -> Do you plan to do extremely competitive group rides?
-------- Yes -> Do you want a bike that people will look at and drool?
----------- Yes -> Spend $1000+ on a set of deep section carbon wheels.
----------- No -> Spend $500 on lightweight low-profile wheels.
-- No (not racing) -> Do you want a bike that people will look at and drool?
----- Yes -> Do you want to brag about how light your bike is?
-------- Yes -> Spend $1000 or more on deep section carbon wheels
-------- No -> Spend $500 on deep section aluminum wheels
----- No -> Spend $300 on hand-built wheels with 32-spokes, Shimano hubs and decent rims
-- No (not less than 185 pounds) -> Do you weigh over 220 pounds?
----- Yes -> Spend $300 on hand-built wheels with 32-spokes, Shimano hubs and decent rims
----- No -> Spend $300 on hand-built wheels with 36-spokes, Shimano hubs and decent rims


Following this algorithm, my last wheel upgrade was to handbuilt 32-spoke wheels with Ultegra hubs and Velocity A23 rims. I'm extremely satisfied with these wheels, though they don't feel a lot different than the wheels they replaced. Of course, I put these wheels on a 21-pound steel 2001 LeMond, so feel free to turn your nose up at me.


* ducks for cover *

datlas 

What's the rush?!?

Just use the stock wheels for your first year.

Get used to the bike and get stronger.

Buy some better wheels next year and relegate the stock wheels to off season/bad weather riding.

jimc101

The bike as stock comes with a perfectly acceptable wheel set and would do as datlas suggests, if you really want to upgrade, would look at a minimum of something like Shmano WH 7900 C35's, for something serviceable; or if you want a nicer, Reynolds RZR's are always nice, but they do come at a massive price (but they are a 10/10 on the bling scale).

clones2

I think a wheel upgrade is a great idea. I am curious what your stock wheels are... My Madone 5.2 this year came with Bontrager Race Lites, and for under $600 I was able to buy a stiffer, more aero, and lighter wheel. The wheelset was 1 lb lighter. It made a big difference to my riding.

Germanicus

(cost of bicycle + miles per year) /5 = $price of wheel set

Flatballer

You were so close. And then I stopped reading.

save10

OP....you handle drjdan....are you a physician? if so i would up grade your wheels immediately and not have any second thoughts about it. Your colleagues are buying hybrid fairway woods that they couldnt hit straight if Jack Nicklaus himself was their coach. look up williams or boyd wheels or may be have psimet build you a nice set of clinchers - hed belgium rims(the new wider ones), DT swiss 240 hubs, sapim xrays in a 24/28 build..something like that. If you are not a physician or cannot really afford a new wheelset just ride what you have for now.....then buy a new wheelset

generalkdi

(2100 + 3000) / 5 = 1020$

What am I doing on stock shimano RS10 wheels!? Oh no, an upgraditis, no wait, stop! oh no, it got me, I gotta upgrade to get rid of this!

garciawork

Can't go wrong with a set of Fulcrum racing 3 2-way's run tubeless. Mine are still true as the day I got 'em, and the ride quality is fantastic. Cheaper if ordered from the Europe as well.

Drew Eckhardt 

Sure, but the effects are proportional to the fraction of total weight dropped. If a 165 pound cyclist + bike combination dropped 300g he'd be 0.4% faster up the steepest climbs. A full 600g would make him 0.8% faster.

Assuming that was at the tire surface he'd accelerate 0.8% and 1.6% faster respectively.

The effects are proportionally less for 180, 200, etc. pound riders.


Built with commodity rims, hubs, and spokes they're also imminently serviceable. Every time I crash and bend one of my favorite wheels or wear out a brake track (2 fronts in 15 years, 3 rear, I spent most of that time living in an alpine desert with little rain) it costs me just $65 to put a new rim on and if need be I can have that done by tomorrow (if a LBS is still open).

If you're going to race and don't have freakish genetics you better have a structured training plan. Feedback from a power meter makes that easier to follow accurately and make adjustments. Powertap wheels are a relatively affordable way to do that.

I'd either spend $300 - $500 on a set of hand-built 32 spoke (maybe 28 in front) wheels using commodity components or $1000 - $1500 on the same with Powertap hubs. As the original poster I'd take the low cost option unless he decides on a structured training program to make him faster and fitter for non-racing purposes.

caloso

Is this a BF record? Upgrading a bike you haven't even ridden yet?

I suggest riding them for a few hundred or thousand miles and then deciding what you don't like about them.

Germanicus

By the way, I completely made up that equation so there may be a margin of error.

StanSeven

I did better and made it through point 2 before I stopped

Carbon Unit

Have you considered Zipp 303s either clincher or tubular version? Personally, I would stay away from tubulars unless I was a competitive cyclist that was making my living on a bike. If budget is a problem, take a look at Williams.

canam73

If I'm looking at the right bike (https://www.cannondale.com/2012-synap...-ultegra-20197), it comes with Dt Swiss RR1600 wheels. A replacement set will cost you around $700. Those are very appropriate for that bike on medium length group rides. An upgrade would be getting a powertap or carbon rims and neither is needed for your purposes. You be hard pressed to find aluminum clinchers that would do anything but look different.

drjdan

The 2012 model of the bike did come with DT Swiss RR1600 but the 2013 model that I have ordered come with Mavic Aksium WTS. The 2013 model is $200 cheaper than the 2012 model. I think they have changed the wheels and lowered the price to make room for a new Mod 1 bike for 2013.

So from what I can tell the Mavic Aksium WTS are about $300 per set and the DT Swiss RR1600 are about $700 per set, so that is why I am considering upgrading. The Mavic Aksium are the lowest priced wheel in thier product line and I just don't like buying the lowest. I certainly not looking at a $1000 set.
Also my LBS is suggesting using tubeless with sealant tires.

Dean V

+1

a1penguin

I purchased the same bike in April. I found the stock wheels to ride well. They aren't that bad; weighed in at 1640something. I purchased Boyd Vitesse and put them on the Synapse and trickled down the DT Swiss to replace the boat anchors on the older Trek.

bonz50

the aksium set weighs in at 1735g, slightly heavier than your average aftermarket wheelsets that clock in around 1500g or so. the aksium is a heavy duty monkeyfighter, virtually nuke proof. inside the mavic line you'll spend about $5-600 to drop ~200g. the aksium, while it may be mavic's entry level wheel, is pretty far from being a steel box section rim from the 70's, its a good looking, stiff, and good performing wheel. ride 'em until they are cooked, bent, broke, etc then upgrade. or email me with a reasonable price for the aksium set and maybe we can strike a deal!!

edit - not sure i'd go tubular right away, given the fact that you're askin these questions about it you may not be ready for tubular, lotta good discussion about tubular around here, worth informing yourself before you do that.

Homebrew01

Op said tubeless, not tubular