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Old 08-30-20, 11:07 AM
  #26  
JacobLee 
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Looks like a 72. Same as me, but I’m not as greasy.



When I’d posted earlier on the SC thread, Daka had straightened me out on seatpost size. This was the way the 26.2 Promax looked when I pulled it out.



it seemed counter-intuitive to me that it actually needed a larger seatpost, but he suggested that someone had just distorted the collar. A little prying and filing with a 1” radius file, and a 26.4 went in. This is the post from my 87 Hardrock, which I had to replace because it was a bit short. Nothing fancy, but it’s got a pretty nice finish on it.

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Old 08-30-20, 11:23 AM
  #27  
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Many of those pumps had alternate hoses with a fitting that would screw on to a presta end but really designed for a Westwood valve.
Even if you found one the integrity would be suspect now.

Might be possible to use one with a valve adapter. Never tried.
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Old 08-30-20, 01:39 PM
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Time for some Lugshots!





Not sure how these rank on the Raleigh Meter. This cable guide almost looks like it was meant for a front derailleur.



A little off-center, but at least it’s there.

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Old 08-30-20, 06:37 PM
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Now for some fork details!

First I had to struggle with the headset, which had bizarre wrench sizing. 1 5/8”? Geeze, time for a larger crescent wrench.



48 loose ball bearings. Races looked good, but still not very smooth when it went back together.



I love this little nail holding the crown to the steerer. It even got a chrome coating on its backside.



Found this bit of tape in the headtube. Looks like it was on the steerer at some point.




The blue on the steerer looks much darker than the blue undercoating on the frame.

Interesting old beast!
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Old 08-30-20, 06:59 PM
  #30  
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-----

Congratulations!

you have the famous/notorious Raleigh 26TPI headset

prior to reassembly

a) use a file to cut yourself a keyway in the steerer so that a keyed headset washer can be fitted. this permits easier adjusting of the headset and better adjustment retention.

b) have the ends of the head tube and the fork crown milled.

these two steps will give you a better functioning headset with less grief/problems. it will not be glass smooth but it will be much better than if you do not do them.

-----
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Old 08-30-20, 07:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by juvela
-----

Congratulations!

you have the famous/notorious Raleigh 26TPI headset
-----
Lucky dog...
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Old 08-30-20, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by juvela
-----

Congratulations!

you have the famous/notorious Raleigh 26TPI headset

prior to reassembly

a) use a file to cut yourself a keyway in the steerer so that a keyed headset washer can be fitted. this permits easier adjusting of the headset and better adjustment retention.

b) have the ends of the head tube and the fork crown milled.

these two steps will give you a better functioning headset with less grief/problems. it will not be glass smooth but it will be much better than if you do not do them.

-----
Thanks for confirming that. I’d read about that issue, and the locknut was so weird, I figured I had won the lottery, the bad lottery. At least the races look good, so if I follow you prescriptions, I should be good. The steerer has a flat spot where the keyway should be, so I guess that’s the spot I cut a channel in.
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Old 08-30-20, 07:43 PM
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The Raleigh headset isn't bad. It's not super smooth or precise, but it's extremely durable. I think you can probably get replacement parts easily enough since Raleighs are so common. Just assume you'll never replace it and take care of it.
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Old 08-30-20, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
The Raleigh headset isn't bad. It's not super smooth or precise, but it's extremely durable. I think you can probably get replacement parts easily enough since Raleighs are so common. Just assume you'll never replace it and take care of it.
Good news. Yeah, that’s the plan. I also just read that you can install a lower race from any headset, if you want a seal and caged bearings. Not sure how that affects stack height. I’m going to put it together for now, and see how the bike fits me. At least I got standard bb threading and a good bottom bracket!
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Old 08-30-20, 08:32 PM
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-----

You found the headset locknut and adjustable race to be of odd dimension because they are................................................yes, you guessed it...........Whitworth.

The cycle's Gripfast seat binder is also Whitworth and were the wedgebolts used on the original chainset.

-----
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Old 08-30-20, 09:09 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by juvela
-----

You found the headset locknut and adjustable race to be of odd dimension because they are................................................yes, you guessed it...........Whitworth.

The cycle's Gripfast seat binder is also Whitworth and were the wedgebolts used on the original chainset.

-----
I’m so glad you said that! I found this tool in a ziplock bag of bike stuff at an estate sale about six months ago. nlerner recognized it as Whitworth, and I used it on the binder bolt.



I wouldn’t have thought to try it on my headset, but there it is!



Whitworth! I read up on that stuff at the time, and it was interesting. First time a “standard” had been set. You’d think the Germans would have thought of it first. I also love that the bolt sizes were called out by the size of wrench that would fit the head. User friendly.
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Old 08-30-20, 09:12 PM
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-----

"Verily, Don Roberto ist thine oncle!"


-----
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Old 08-30-20, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobLee
Thanks for confirming that. I’d read about that issue, and the locknut was so weird, I figured I had won the lottery, the bad lottery. At least the races look good, so if I follow you prescriptions, I should be good. The steerer has a flat spot where the keyway should be, so I guess that’s the spot I cut a channel in.
Our friends at Rene Herse sell a washer that fits the flat on the steerer tube for only 16 bucks a pop.
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Old 08-30-20, 11:02 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by repechage
I lived in WLA for a long time GRanite exchange... the 47 numbers... when General Telephone ruled. They bet big on electromechanical Switching then touch tone arrived and you could get a touch tone but the central switching had to convert that to pulse!

Charlie worked for Hans Ohrt for a while- then bought Sugden & Lynch and renamed it C Harding’s Westwood Cyclery

another shop opened five blocks or so south on the other side of the street- they sold Peugeot and another brand.

charlie sold Raleigh, Phillips, Carlton, Legnano, Hetchins, holdsworth. My first bike, a Phillips Pilot was from there.
When I was in my teens in the late '60s early '70s there was a Sugden & Lynch bicycle shop in Menlo Park (about 30 miles south of San Francisco). It was run by two brothers - Nick and Martin Lynch IIRC - and the father-in-law of one of them who I believe was Sugden. It was THE place to go for upscale bicycles and parts.
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Old 08-31-20, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobLee
Good news. Yeah, that’s the plan. I also just read that you can install a lower race from any headset, if you want a seal and caged bearings. Not sure how that affects stack height. I’m going to put it together for now, and see how the bike fits me. At least I got standard bb threading and a good bottom bracket!
I never thought of that, and it's brilliant. The lower race is the more critical one, and it often wears out when the upper one is still like new.

My 1971 Super Course is the same. Standard thread BB and Whitworth headset. If the headset ever wears out, I'll know what to do.
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Old 08-31-20, 04:22 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ascherer
Our friends at Rene Herse sell a washer that fits the flat on the steerer tube for only 16 bucks a pop.
Good to know, but that's a steep price for a spacer. They're not even made domestically.

If one is handy this kind of thing can be made out of scrap.
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Old 08-31-20, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
I never thought of that, and it's brilliant. The lower race is the more critical one, and it often wears out when the upper one is still like new.

My 1971 Super Course is the same. Standard thread BB and Whitworth headset. If the headset ever wears out, I'll know what to do.
Somewhere buried deep in the SC thread is a reference to the Sheldon Browne article on 26tpi solutions. Tempting to try it sooner than later; when I took this one apart the upper race still had grease in it, and the lower was bone dry.
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Old 08-31-20, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BFisher
Good to know, but that's a steep price for a spacer. They're not even made domestically.

If one is handy this kind of thing can be made out of scrap.
I noticed they came in two thicknesses: 5mm and 10mm. I didn’t measure anything, but seems like it would be hard to fit even the 5mm with the brake cable hanger.
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Old 08-31-20, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobLee
I noticed they came in two thicknesses: 5mm and 10mm. I didn’t measure anything, but seems like it would be hard to fit even the 5mm with the brake cable hanger.
Actually I bought two of the 5mm to for the headsets on my Mark I and International. They fit like a glove but I haven't ridden either bike since I put 'em on.
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Old 08-31-20, 07:22 PM
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A fantastic find.

I find it rather amusing that the crank apparently wound up with a square taper conversion in the '90s, but the Simplex Prestige somehow avoided getting binned for a Suntour. Who would have guessed?

-Kurt
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Old 08-31-20, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ascherer
Actually I bought two of the 5mm to for the headsets on my Mark I and International. They fit like a glove but I haven't ridden either bike since I put 'em on.
Mix and match according to how much threaded portion is available on the steerer tube. The brake hanger counts as a washer too - having a spacer underneath it makes it easier to adjust the top race but, if you don't have enough threads, you can leave the spacer out - it just makes the headset less convenient to adjust since you have to unthread the locknut back far enough to lift the hanger in order get a tool on the upper race. Though, in my experience, hand-tight is usually plenty, since the locknut compresses things further.
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Old 08-31-20, 09:28 PM
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The spacer on mine is almost 3mm thick. With the brake hanger over it I’ve got 5mm of threads left.




Here’s a 5mm threadless spacer, and bracket over it.




I dunno. Seems a little skimpy. Sorry about the thumbnail.
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Old 08-31-20, 10:27 PM
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I agree, with the 5mm spacer there are only a couple of threads available. I'd go with the 3mm spacer. If you were going to convert to brakes that don't require the hanger, then the 5mm would be correct.
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Old 09-01-20, 06:52 AM
  #49  
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Yup, that's tight.
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Old 09-01-20, 09:30 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by cudak888
A fantastic find.

I find it rather amusing that the crank apparently wound up with a square taper conversion in the '90s, but the Simplex Prestige somehow avoided getting binned for a Suntour. Who would have guessed?

-Kurt
Amusing indeed! And all of those parts seem to have outlived the replacement rear wheel, which is from when? 00’s?



Weinmann rim, no name hub, sunrace ramped freewheel, bummer of a quick release. Races are badly pitted, two nds spokes had already been replaced with DT’s, and a third was broken. Freewheel feels really loose. By some miracle, I had two spokes laying around, and one of them fit.
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