Failed braze on, Scandium frame
#1
Castiron Perineum
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Failed braze on, Scandium frame
Hey guys I have a rather obscure repair question, if this is the wrong forum mods please feel free to move it but I did think frame gurus would have some good input. The frame in question is an early 2000's Salsa Campeon. I'm not sure how it happened bu the little cable stop pictured pulled away from the frame, taking with it a chunk of paint chip and I'm noticing some oxidation to the metal below (Scandium). I'm wondering what my options are. I'm thinking:
- disassemble bike, media blast frame, powdercoat or paint, braze new stop on, build back up
- epoxy or otherwise re-attach stop to toptube, carry on as normal
- do away with stop entirely and run shrouded cable underneath top tube (not my favorite option)
- some combination of the above or something I haven't thought of?
#2
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Scandium is aluminum, no brazing. It looks like it might have been welded. The only other possibility is bonded.
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#4
Castiron Perineum
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That might have to do John! Thanks,
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Do not use a torch for fixing anything on your frame, you'll ruin the heat treatment. I would find a "clamp-on cable stop" like this: https://www.rivbike.com/products/clamp-on-cable-stops
If it's shift cable you could try epoxy, that's how golf club heads are attached to the shaft. You need to look up how to clean and prep the area, and clamp it while it cures.
If it's shift cable you could try epoxy, that's how golf club heads are attached to the shaft. You need to look up how to clean and prep the area, and clamp it while it cures.
#6
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Yes Scandium is an aluminum alloy no brazing ... so one solution is make a piece in steel, paint it, and that corroded aluminum portion,
and pop-rivet it on...
the "Salsa" company you dealt with is gone, QBP owns the brand name, and uses the companies in Taiwan, for production...
....
and pop-rivet it on...
the "Salsa" company you dealt with is gone, QBP owns the brand name, and uses the companies in Taiwan, for production...
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-24-18 at 12:08 PM.
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This is a load bearing part, not simply a guide, so bonding or riveting are not viable options.
I suspect that the original was welded, and a careful look for the remnants of a bead, or at it's mate can confirm.
In any case, there's no easy fix, so either a clamp on stop, or full housing with clips are the options, though IMO, this should qualify as a defect under the warranty policy. Visit the dealer or email the maker (or both) and see what they say. If they won't make good with at least a substantial credit towards a replacement (based on how long you've owned it s. projected life), you might consider small claims court.
I suspect that the original was welded, and a careful look for the remnants of a bead, or at it's mate can confirm.
In any case, there's no easy fix, so either a clamp on stop, or full housing with clips are the options, though IMO, this should qualify as a defect under the warranty policy. Visit the dealer or email the maker (or both) and see what they say. If they won't make good with at least a substantial credit towards a replacement (based on how long you've owned it s. projected life), you might consider small claims court.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
Banned
my thought a larger area , for the sub assembly of the braze on onto a steel base, then a pop-rivet on either end
of a larger oval base,, you could epoxy it and then set the pop rivets while the epoxy had not yet cured.. **
I have a piece fabricated in nylon with a front derailleur stop in it that is crewed into a riv nut on the underside of the downtube.
It also functions as a bumper stop for the fork crown to not swing too far..
** Linear Recumbents used the pop-riveted on bases, of steel housing stops , in making their bikes , with aluminum rectangular tube frames..
of a larger oval base,, you could epoxy it and then set the pop rivets while the epoxy had not yet cured.. **
I have a piece fabricated in nylon with a front derailleur stop in it that is crewed into a riv nut on the underside of the downtube.
It also functions as a bumper stop for the fork crown to not swing too far..
** Linear Recumbents used the pop-riveted on bases, of steel housing stops , in making their bikes , with aluminum rectangular tube frames..
#9
Castiron Perineum
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Guys I sincerely appreciate all your advice. I don't think a warranty discussion would get very far, I lost my receipts in a move, and the bike shop from which I bought it is out of business.
I most likely will try the clamp-on cable stop as pictured above. I'm slightly nervous due to the amount of oxidation I see in the metal, but hopefully it has sufficient wall-thickness to be structurally sound.
I most likely will try the clamp-on cable stop as pictured above. I'm slightly nervous due to the amount of oxidation I see in the metal, but hopefully it has sufficient wall-thickness to be structurally sound.
#10
Lapped 3x
Guys I sincerely appreciate all your advice. I don't think a warranty discussion would get very far, I lost my receipts in a move, and the bike shop from which I bought it is out of business.
I most likely will try the clamp-on cable stop as pictured above. I'm slightly nervous due to the amount of oxidation I see in the metal, but hopefully it has sufficient wall-thickness to be structurally sound.
I most likely will try the clamp-on cable stop as pictured above. I'm slightly nervous due to the amount of oxidation I see in the metal, but hopefully it has sufficient wall-thickness to be structurally sound.
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Guys I sincerely appreciate all your advice. I don't think a warranty discussion would get very far, I lost my receipts in a move, and the bike shop from which I bought it is out of business.
I most likely will try the clamp-on cable stop as pictured above. I'm slightly nervous due to the amount of oxidation I see in the metal, but hopefully it has sufficient wall-thickness to be structurally sound.
I most likely will try the clamp-on cable stop as pictured above. I'm slightly nervous due to the amount of oxidation I see in the metal, but hopefully it has sufficient wall-thickness to be structurally sound.
Good luck with the repair.