2013 Cervelo R3, is it still good?
09-23-20, 11:06 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2013 Cervelo R3, is it still good?
Hi all, first post here!
I'm trying to get back into riding and I've been out of the cycling game for quite awhile so I apologize if this topic has been beaten to death before. I currently have a 2013 Cervelo R3 105 that is completely stock. I've been contemplating new wheels/tires and possibly a new crankset / cassette. I understand the Shimano R501 wheels are the weak point of this bike in stock form so that'll be the first thing I change out. My question is, as this is a 7 year old model, is the frame still a good starting point to build off or with upgrades or is money better spent on a newer/complete package.
I ride pretty casually, not racing or anything like that. I rarely cycle over 30-40 miles on a single ride and tend to not do big climbs very often. Thanks in advance for your input.
I'm trying to get back into riding and I've been out of the cycling game for quite awhile so I apologize if this topic has been beaten to death before. I currently have a 2013 Cervelo R3 105 that is completely stock. I've been contemplating new wheels/tires and possibly a new crankset / cassette. I understand the Shimano R501 wheels are the weak point of this bike in stock form so that'll be the first thing I change out. My question is, as this is a 7 year old model, is the frame still a good starting point to build off or with upgrades or is money better spent on a newer/complete package.
I ride pretty casually, not racing or anything like that. I rarely cycle over 30-40 miles on a single ride and tend to not do big climbs very often. Thanks in advance for your input.
09-23-20, 11:18 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
It's a terrible bike, you need to send it to me for riding destruction.
The one thing that show's that bike's age is that it won't take tires larger than 23 mm. All the cool kids are on 25s to 28s now. Is that worth $4k when you already have an excellent bike? No. Maybe if it was a Trek or something.
Depending what tires you're on now, you should probably upgrade them today. Really good tires are faster and have better ride quality. If you're starting from something like Conti Ultra Sports or Gatorskins then going to GP5000s or Pro Ones is the best speed you'll get out of an upgrade, and by far the cheapest. (I wouldn't buy wheels until you're sure either this bike works for you, or doesn't.)
The one thing that show's that bike's age is that it won't take tires larger than 23 mm. All the cool kids are on 25s to 28s now. Is that worth $4k when you already have an excellent bike? No. Maybe if it was a Trek or something.
Depending what tires you're on now, you should probably upgrade them today. Really good tires are faster and have better ride quality. If you're starting from something like Conti Ultra Sports or Gatorskins then going to GP5000s or Pro Ones is the best speed you'll get out of an upgrade, and by far the cheapest. (I wouldn't buy wheels until you're sure either this bike works for you, or doesn't.)
Likes For Seattle Forrest:
09-23-20, 11:31 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It's a terrible bike, you need to send it to me for riding destruction.
The one thing that show's that bike's age is that it won't take tires larger than 23 mm. All the cool kids are on 25s to 28s now. Is that worth $4k when you already have an excellent bike? No. Maybe if it was a Trek or something.
Depending what tires you're on now, you should probably upgrade them today. Really good tires are faster and have better ride quality. If you're starting from something like Conti Ultra Sports or Gatorskins then going to GP5000s or Pro Ones is the best speed you'll get out of an upgrade, and by far the cheapest. (I wouldn't buy wheels until you're sure either this bike works for you, or doesn't.)
The one thing that show's that bike's age is that it won't take tires larger than 23 mm. All the cool kids are on 25s to 28s now. Is that worth $4k when you already have an excellent bike? No. Maybe if it was a Trek or something.
Depending what tires you're on now, you should probably upgrade them today. Really good tires are faster and have better ride quality. If you're starting from something like Conti Ultra Sports or Gatorskins then going to GP5000s or Pro Ones is the best speed you'll get out of an upgrade, and by far the cheapest. (I wouldn't buy wheels until you're sure either this bike works for you, or doesn't.)
I'm pretty sure it's on the original tires and I just got a huge puncture on the rear on my last ride. I wanted to pick up some GP5000s (I used to run GP4000s religiously on my old bike), so I'll probably do that next. I've owned this bike since 2016 and have enjoyed riding it, so I think I'm happy with the bike itself and would be ok with a nice wheelset in the near-ish future. Is tires > wheels > pedals/shoes > crank/cassette a decent upgrade flow? I have cheap Shimano SPD (not the SLs) pedals and MTB Sidi shoes. Should I upgrade to road pedals / shoes?
09-23-20, 12:08 PM
#4
Senior Member
That's still a great bike, and you can make it even better with wider tires. Also check into latex tubes, which roll faster than butyl tubes.
As for whether 25mm+ will fit, you'll have to measure your current tires and how much more space you have. It should be easy to tell where you're limited on space. In the front, it'll obviously be at the top of the tire near the fork. In the rear, the typical narrowest area is the chain stay (the horizontal pieces from the main frame to the rear axle).
Also, GP5000's run pretty true to size. My "25 mm" measure 26 mm actual width. By comparison, GP4000's measured 29mm on these same rims.
If I were you, I would start with tires and wheels. After that, I would go with a power meter and a nicer bike computer, if you don't already have them. At least for me, I like having the data and it keeps me motivated.
As for whether 25mm+ will fit, you'll have to measure your current tires and how much more space you have. It should be easy to tell where you're limited on space. In the front, it'll obviously be at the top of the tire near the fork. In the rear, the typical narrowest area is the chain stay (the horizontal pieces from the main frame to the rear axle).
Also, GP5000's run pretty true to size. My "25 mm" measure 26 mm actual width. By comparison, GP4000's measured 29mm on these same rims.
If I were you, I would start with tires and wheels. After that, I would go with a power meter and a nicer bike computer, if you don't already have them. At least for me, I like having the data and it keeps me motivated.
09-23-20, 12:17 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
I think the limiting factor (for tire size) is at the chainstays or maybe behind the bottom bracket. And you might be able to squeeze 25s on, but without a couple+ mms of clearance on both sides, you're liable to get in trouble. I saw a frame at LBS once that was toast because the abrasion from the rear tire against the stay basically sawed a hole in the stay. I don't remember the story behind it, just the moral to be aware that's possible. 
Most people start upgrading the stuff that bothers them most, and then get kind of hooked.
The reason I'd make the wheels last (besides they can easily be most expensive) is that disc brakes have become standard on road bikes, if you decide to buy a newer bike the wheels you bought won't work on it.
Most people start upgrading the stuff that bothers them most, and then get kind of hooked.
The reason I'd make the wheels last (besides they can easily be most expensive) is that disc brakes have become standard on road bikes, if you decide to buy a newer bike the wheels you bought won't work on it.
09-23-20, 12:44 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
That's still a great bike, and you can make it even better with wider tires. Also check into latex tubes, which roll faster than butyl tubes.
As for whether 25mm+ will fit, you'll have to measure your current tires and how much more space you have. It should be easy to tell where you're limited on space. In the front, it'll obviously be at the top of the tire near the fork. In the rear, the typical narrowest area is the chain stay (the horizontal pieces from the main frame to the rear axle).
Also, GP5000's run pretty true to size. My "25 mm" measure 26 mm actual width. By comparison, GP4000's measured 29mm on these same rims.
If I were you, I would start with tires and wheels. After that, I would go with a power meter and a nicer bike computer, if you don't already have them. At least for me, I like having the data and it keeps me motivated.
As for whether 25mm+ will fit, you'll have to measure your current tires and how much more space you have. It should be easy to tell where you're limited on space. In the front, it'll obviously be at the top of the tire near the fork. In the rear, the typical narrowest area is the chain stay (the horizontal pieces from the main frame to the rear axle).
Also, GP5000's run pretty true to size. My "25 mm" measure 26 mm actual width. By comparison, GP4000's measured 29mm on these same rims.
If I were you, I would start with tires and wheels. After that, I would go with a power meter and a nicer bike computer, if you don't already have them. At least for me, I like having the data and it keeps me motivated.
I think the limiting factor (for tire size) is at the chainstays or maybe behind the bottom bracket. And you might be able to squeeze 25s on, but without a couple+ mms of clearance on both sides, you're liable to get in trouble. I saw a frame at LBS once that was toast because the abrasion from the rear tire against the stay basically sawed a hole in the stay. I don't remember the story behind it, just the moral to be aware that's possible.
Most people start upgrading the stuff that bothers them most, and then get kind of hooked. The reason I'd make the wheels last (besides they can easily be most expensive) is that disc brakes have become standard on road bikes, if you decide to buy a newer bike the wheels you bought won't work on it.
Most people start upgrading the stuff that bothers them most, and then get kind of hooked.
The reason I'd make the wheels last (besides they can easily be most expensive) is that disc brakes have become standard on road bikes, if you decide to buy a newer bike the wheels you bought won't work on it.
09-23-20, 01:18 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
I had Fulcrum Racing 7s on my R3. They were bomb proof, but heavy.
Light wheels don't make you much faster, but they make the bike feel faster, it'll accelerate faster, more of a touch the pedal and it leaps forward kind of feeling. And your frame has that in spades so it could be a fun upgrade.
I would look into Light Bicycle wheels. Here's a thread on bike forums with lots of customers sharing feedback.
I actually used SPD pedals on my R3, ironically now I have road pedals on my C3 and ride it on gravel sometimes, which is a pain in the ass. If you don't already have a power meter, and want to replace your crankset or pedals anyway, that's something else to give some thought to. If you'll use it, a PM is one of the best upgrades you can make to any bike. A light set of road pedals might cost $200, pedals with a power meter can be anywhere from $500 to $800, and if you'll eventually go that way it's cheaper in the long run not to buy other pedals first. Power2max makes crank based PMs if you're thinking about changing that.
Light wheels don't make you much faster, but they make the bike feel faster, it'll accelerate faster, more of a touch the pedal and it leaps forward kind of feeling. And your frame has that in spades so it could be a fun upgrade.
I would look into Light Bicycle wheels. Here's a thread on bike forums with lots of customers sharing feedback.
I actually used SPD pedals on my R3, ironically now I have road pedals on my C3 and ride it on gravel sometimes, which is a pain in the ass. If you don't already have a power meter, and want to replace your crankset or pedals anyway, that's something else to give some thought to. If you'll use it, a PM is one of the best upgrades you can make to any bike. A light set of road pedals might cost $200, pedals with a power meter can be anywhere from $500 to $800, and if you'll eventually go that way it's cheaper in the long run not to buy other pedals first. Power2max makes crank based PMs if you're thinking about changing that.
09-23-20, 08:08 PM
#8
Junior Member
I’ve ridden 25’s (Conti 4000’s usually) on my 2010 R3 for years without a problem. 28’s I think would be too big but I haven’t tried them. I don’t know how much R3’s changed over the years but I’d guess 25’s might work on a 2013 model.
Last edited by 77Eric; 09-24-20 at 01:29 AM.
09-24-20, 06:10 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,481
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7648 Post(s)
Liked 3,465 Times
in
1,831 Posts
I have a Chinese clone of an R-series of that vintage and I have run narrow (actual 28-mm) 28s on narrow (maybe 15- or 17-mm) rims. Fit fine.
It si an excellent frame and a worthy base for building a bike you could ride for the rest of your life without missing a thing.
Light wheels make the bike feel quicker and more nimble. The only caveat is that modern rims tend to be wider, so you might be limited to 25-mm tires---but they will be able to expand wider.
I normally use 23-mm tires and never had a problem but I usually ride pretty good pavement. Going wider would be fine bu not essential.
It si an excellent frame and a worthy base for building a bike you could ride for the rest of your life without missing a thing.
Light wheels make the bike feel quicker and more nimble. The only caveat is that modern rims tend to be wider, so you might be limited to 25-mm tires---but they will be able to expand wider.
I normally use 23-mm tires and never had a problem but I usually ride pretty good pavement. Going wider would be fine bu not essential.
09-24-20, 12:35 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I had Fulcrum Racing 7s on my R3. They were bomb proof, but heavy.
Light wheels don't make you much faster, but they make the bike feel faster, it'll accelerate faster, more of a touch the pedal and it leaps forward kind of feeling. And your frame has that in spades so it could be a fun upgrade.
I would look into Light Bicycle wheels
I actually used SPD pedals on my R3, ironically now I have road pedals on my C3 and ride it on gravel sometimes, which is a pain in the ass. If you don't already have a power meter, and want to replace your crankset or pedals anyway, that's something else to give some thought to. If you'll use it, a PM is one of the best upgrades you can make to any bike. A light set of road pedals might cost $200, pedals with a power meter can be anywhere from $500 to $800, and if you'll eventually go that way it's cheaper in the long run not to buy other pedals first. Power2max makes crank based PMs if you're thinking about changing that.
Light wheels don't make you much faster, but they make the bike feel faster, it'll accelerate faster, more of a touch the pedal and it leaps forward kind of feeling. And your frame has that in spades so it could be a fun upgrade.
I would look into Light Bicycle wheels
I actually used SPD pedals on my R3, ironically now I have road pedals on my C3 and ride it on gravel sometimes, which is a pain in the ass. If you don't already have a power meter, and want to replace your crankset or pedals anyway, that's something else to give some thought to. If you'll use it, a PM is one of the best upgrades you can make to any bike. A light set of road pedals might cost $200, pedals with a power meter can be anywhere from $500 to $800, and if you'll eventually go that way it's cheaper in the long run not to buy other pedals first. Power2max makes crank based PMs if you're thinking about changing that.
I have a Chinese clone of an R-series of that vintage and I have run narrow (actual 28-mm) 28s on narrow (maybe 15- or 17-mm) rims. Fit fine.
It si an excellent frame and a worthy base for building a bike you could ride for the rest of your life without missing a thing.
Light wheels make the bike feel quicker and more nimble. The only caveat is that modern rims tend to be wider, so you might be limited to 25-mm tires---but they will be able to expand wider.
I normally use 23-mm tires and never had a problem but I usually ride pretty good pavement. Going wider would be fine bu not essential.
It si an excellent frame and a worthy base for building a bike you could ride for the rest of your life without missing a thing.
Light wheels make the bike feel quicker and more nimble. The only caveat is that modern rims tend to be wider, so you might be limited to 25-mm tires---but they will be able to expand wider.
I normally use 23-mm tires and never had a problem but I usually ride pretty good pavement. Going wider would be fine bu not essential.
09-24-20, 01:41 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,481
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7648 Post(s)
Liked 3,465 Times
in
1,831 Posts
As I understand it, tire pressure affects performance---if the tire is too hard, it shudders and skips (in near-microscopic amounts) wasting your energy. A slightly softer tire will deform and stay glued to the pavement, transmitting all your power. Too soft a tire will flop on turns, which can make one pucker.
Volume affects comfort. The more air to compress, the more bumps get absorbed. Wider tires might also be a little taller, giving a little more room to give that way, too--but that shouldn't matter unless you run pinch-flat pressure.
usually a wider tire will be a little heavier because there is more rubber. From what I have read, aero depends mostly on the wheel being the same outside width as the tire, and upon an ogive (sort of a gothic arch) rim cross-section. So a good wheel well fit with a tire of the right width should be aero whether a 23 or a 26. The increase in frontal area is negligible.
The fact that World Tour pros are now riding 25s and 28s tells me that performance isn't hurt by the added width---of course I am sure they can get any rim width they want for the best aero.
If your frame is a 56, though ... Cervelo R-series of that vintage were notorious for developing dangerous radioactive compounds because of a mix of chemicals used the cure the carbon fiber. Sort of like asbestos, it it mostly inert until disturbed, when it becomes lethal. Very few people have the right equipment to is isolate the bike and neutralize the compounds. if you take it to most bike shops, they won't even be aware---they will start pulling off parts and cleaning the frame and activate the chemicals, and then you will be slammed with wrongful death suits from their families.
And don't take the bike to a landfill or something---you could get hit with crippling fines for improperly disposing of deadly toxic waste.
Don't let this happen to you.
I have the proper equipment to isolate the frames and neutralize them, making them safe for disposal---but the equipment needed is very specific (which is why I only have the gear for one frame size, and why most Cervelo dealers don't have any---the cost is huge and the application so specific.) If your frame is a 56 cm, I can help you for an extremely low fee---I might even do it for free, just to be a nice guy.
PM me and we will make arrangements.
I value your safety.
Volume affects comfort. The more air to compress, the more bumps get absorbed. Wider tires might also be a little taller, giving a little more room to give that way, too--but that shouldn't matter unless you run pinch-flat pressure.
usually a wider tire will be a little heavier because there is more rubber. From what I have read, aero depends mostly on the wheel being the same outside width as the tire, and upon an ogive (sort of a gothic arch) rim cross-section. So a good wheel well fit with a tire of the right width should be aero whether a 23 or a 26. The increase in frontal area is negligible.
The fact that World Tour pros are now riding 25s and 28s tells me that performance isn't hurt by the added width---of course I am sure they can get any rim width they want for the best aero.
If your frame is a 56, though ... Cervelo R-series of that vintage were notorious for developing dangerous radioactive compounds because of a mix of chemicals used the cure the carbon fiber. Sort of like asbestos, it it mostly inert until disturbed, when it becomes lethal. Very few people have the right equipment to is isolate the bike and neutralize the compounds. if you take it to most bike shops, they won't even be aware---they will start pulling off parts and cleaning the frame and activate the chemicals, and then you will be slammed with wrongful death suits from their families.
And don't take the bike to a landfill or something---you could get hit with crippling fines for improperly disposing of deadly toxic waste.
Don't let this happen to you.
I have the proper equipment to isolate the frames and neutralize them, making them safe for disposal---but the equipment needed is very specific (which is why I only have the gear for one frame size, and why most Cervelo dealers don't have any---the cost is huge and the application so specific.) If your frame is a 56 cm, I can help you for an extremely low fee---I might even do it for free, just to be a nice guy.
PM me and we will make arrangements.
I value your safety.
Likes For Maelochs:
09-24-20, 02:01 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
As I understand it, tire pressure affects performance---if the tire is too hard, it shudders and skips (in near-microscopic amounts) wasting your energy. A slightly softer tire will deform and stay glued to the pavement, transmitting all your power. Too soft a tire will flop on turns, which can make one pucker.
Volume affects comfort. The more air to compress, the more bumps get absorbed. Wider tires might also be a little taller, giving a little more room to give that way, too--but that shouldn't matter unless you run pinch-flat pressure.
usually a wider tire will be a little heavier because there is more rubber. From what I have read, aero depends mostly on the wheel being the same outside width as the tire, and upon an ogive (sort of a gothic arch) rim cross-section. So a good wheel well fit with a tire of the right width should be aero whether a 23 or a 26. The increase in frontal area is negligible.
The fact that World Tour pros are now riding 25s and 28s tells me that performance isn't hurt by the added width---of course I am sure they can get any rim width they want for the best aero.
If your frame is a 56, though ... Cervelo R-series of that vintage were notorious for developing dangerous radioactive compounds because of a mix of chemicals used the cure the carbon fiber. Sort of like asbestos, it it mostly inert until disturbed, when it becomes lethal. Very few people have the right equipment to is isolate the bike and neutralize the compounds. if you take it to most bike shops, they won't even be aware---they will start pulling off parts and cleaning the frame and activate the chemicals, and then you will be slammed with wrongful death suits from their families.
And don't take the bike to a landfill or something---you could get hit with crippling fines for improperly disposing of deadly toxic waste.
Don't let this happen to you.
I have the proper equipment to isolate the frames and neutralize them, making them safe for disposal---but the equipment needed is very specific (which is why I only have the gear for one frame size, and why most Cervelo dealers don't have any---the cost is huge and the application so specific.) If your frame is a 56 cm, I can help you for an extremely low fee---I might even do it for free, just to be a nice guy.
PM me and we will make arrangements.
I value your safety.
Volume affects comfort. The more air to compress, the more bumps get absorbed. Wider tires might also be a little taller, giving a little more room to give that way, too--but that shouldn't matter unless you run pinch-flat pressure.
usually a wider tire will be a little heavier because there is more rubber. From what I have read, aero depends mostly on the wheel being the same outside width as the tire, and upon an ogive (sort of a gothic arch) rim cross-section. So a good wheel well fit with a tire of the right width should be aero whether a 23 or a 26. The increase in frontal area is negligible.
The fact that World Tour pros are now riding 25s and 28s tells me that performance isn't hurt by the added width---of course I am sure they can get any rim width they want for the best aero.
If your frame is a 56, though ... Cervelo R-series of that vintage were notorious for developing dangerous radioactive compounds because of a mix of chemicals used the cure the carbon fiber. Sort of like asbestos, it it mostly inert until disturbed, when it becomes lethal. Very few people have the right equipment to is isolate the bike and neutralize the compounds. if you take it to most bike shops, they won't even be aware---they will start pulling off parts and cleaning the frame and activate the chemicals, and then you will be slammed with wrongful death suits from their families.
And don't take the bike to a landfill or something---you could get hit with crippling fines for improperly disposing of deadly toxic waste.
Don't let this happen to you.
I have the proper equipment to isolate the frames and neutralize them, making them safe for disposal---but the equipment needed is very specific (which is why I only have the gear for one frame size, and why most Cervelo dealers don't have any---the cost is huge and the application so specific.) If your frame is a 56 cm, I can help you for an extremely low fee---I might even do it for free, just to be a nice guy.
PM me and we will make arrangements.
I value your safety.
09-25-20, 10:11 AM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Is a power meter really worth it for casual rides? I'm not racing, nor do I plan to, and I'm not sure that I would have the time / care enough to go through the data and try to figure out what it means. Maybe money better spent elsewhere? Someone change my mind 
09-25-20, 10:35 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Music City, USA
Posts: 4,444
Bikes: bikes
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2622 Post(s)
Liked 1,429 Times
in
711 Posts
Nope. Definitely not worth it. It gives you data. What you do with the data is what makes it worth it or not.
09-25-20, 11:00 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
A power meter is just a thing that spits out numbers, like @rubiksoval says, it's only worth it if you use them to your advantage. The advantages a PM can offer are: training is more effective, with or without a formal training plan, it's a great tool for pacing, you can use it like a wind tunnel if you're willing to put in some work, and finally it can tell you how many calories you're burning to within +/- 2.5% if that matters to you. If those things don't matter to you or you aren't interested in going through the data, then no, you don't need one.
Likes For Seattle Forrest:
09-25-20, 11:12 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NJ, USA
Posts: 1,278
Bikes: two blacks, a blue and a white.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 444 Post(s)
Liked 844 Times
in
408 Posts
2014 R3, riding 25mm Conti GP4000 quite comfortably at 80psi. constraining factor on any wider tire is the front fork (vertical), at least with my particular fork (they've deployed quite a few over the years). Still riding the fulcrum "5.5" wheels that came on the bike, have said every year "I'm finally going to upgrade those wheels" and never have - these have taken all the New Jersey road abuse with no complaints, still as true as day one. Unless there's something really significant you're aiming for by changing bikes, like a size change or electronic shifting, I don't see why you should.
10-04-20, 09:06 PM
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
UPDATE:
Today I picked up a second hand Zipp 303 Firecrest wheelset. They are the rim brake / clincher version and came with Chris King hubs. I plan to run them with GP5000s in 700x25 size. Apparently they are not tubeless ready so I’ll be running tubes. I'll report back with fit on my bike and how they compare to the stock wheels. I weighed them at the shop and they came in at 1560g for the set (incl rim tape, no skewers or valve stems).
Anyone have experience with these wheels? I know Zipps are pretty legit, but I don't have first hand experience with them. Aaaand apparently I can't post photos until I have 10 posts but y’all probably know what they look like anyways.
Today I picked up a second hand Zipp 303 Firecrest wheelset. They are the rim brake / clincher version and came with Chris King hubs. I plan to run them with GP5000s in 700x25 size. Apparently they are not tubeless ready so I’ll be running tubes. I'll report back with fit on my bike and how they compare to the stock wheels. I weighed them at the shop and they came in at 1560g for the set (incl rim tape, no skewers or valve stems).
Anyone have experience with these wheels? I know Zipps are pretty legit, but I don't have first hand experience with them. Aaaand apparently I can't post photos until I have 10 posts but y’all probably know what they look like anyways.
Last edited by s14_kev; 10-05-20 at 07:38 AM.
10-07-20, 10:26 AM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
No issues with 700x25c Continental GP5000 on this frame. I'm currently running them at 100psi and went for a quick 12 mile ride this morning. Wheels/tires/brakes feel great compared to the stock setup, and honestly I have no idea how many miles were on the old tires.. they may well be original from 2013 for all I know. FWIW they were Vittoria Rubino Pro Slicks in 700x23c.
Likes For s14_kev:
10-08-20, 01:58 PM
#21
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 372
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 21 Times
in
15 Posts
Agreed! That's a great bike. Ride the heck out of it and enjoy!
For what it's worth, about twice a year I also go through the same thought process. "My current bike is pretty good, but look how awesome those new bikes are...".
I'm all for people getting shiny new bikes, just because they enjoy riding and life is short, but don't expect a new bike to really be dramatically better than your current bike, which is really solid.
For what it's worth, about twice a year I also go through the same thought process. "My current bike is pretty good, but look how awesome those new bikes are...".
I'm all for people getting shiny new bikes, just because they enjoy riding and life is short, but don't expect a new bike to really be dramatically better than your current bike, which is really solid.
Likes For TrackSmart:
10-08-20, 07:12 PM
#22
Junior Member
Bike looks great, and yes, well worth building up and riding (forgot to say that in my other response). Lots of R3/Cervelo fans around here!
After seeing your pics I will comment, though. You have an offset seatpost with the seat slammed back as far as it will go. That’s pretty unusual. Also a fairly short stem. Maybe you don’t have it dialed in yet, or you have unusual body dimensions (I assume you are male from your moniker but not sure - it is a pretty small frame). Have you checked your “knee over pedal spindle” measurement? It’s not a hard rule (imho) but at least a good starting point.
After seeing your pics I will comment, though. You have an offset seatpost with the seat slammed back as far as it will go. That’s pretty unusual. Also a fairly short stem. Maybe you don’t have it dialed in yet, or you have unusual body dimensions (I assume you are male from your moniker but not sure - it is a pretty small frame). Have you checked your “knee over pedal spindle” measurement? It’s not a hard rule (imho) but at least a good starting point.
10-09-20, 12:19 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
303 Firecrests are excellent wheels. 👍
Likes For Seattle Forrest:
10-09-20, 01:31 PM
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Bike looks great, and yes, well worth building up and riding (forgot to say that in my other response). Lots of R3/Cervelo fans around here!
After seeing your pics I will comment, though. You have an offset seatpost with the seat slammed back as far as it will go. That’s pretty unusual. Also a fairly short stem. Maybe you don’t have it dialed in yet, or you have unusual body dimensions (I assume you are male from your moniker but not sure - it is a pretty small frame). Have you checked your “knee over pedal spindle” measurement? It’s not a hard rule (imho) but at least a good starting point.
After seeing your pics I will comment, though. You have an offset seatpost with the seat slammed back as far as it will go. That’s pretty unusual. Also a fairly short stem. Maybe you don’t have it dialed in yet, or you have unusual body dimensions (I assume you are male from your moniker but not sure - it is a pretty small frame). Have you checked your “knee over pedal spindle” measurement? It’s not a hard rule (imho) but at least a good starting point.
Also yes I’m male, 5’6” and 150lbs. I have fairly short legs and a long torso (respectively speaking).
Okay I’ll give that a shot. Also, I’ve read to go lower pressure in the front vs the rear due to less weight being on the front end. Do you think 80f / 90r is a good place to start? Or even lower?
