Yo Spiff

No, I have the ones that are an odd ergo shape, I forget the model number.

Finished up, here's what she looks like. Certainly some additional tweaks to come, and I'm not sure if I'm going to prefer these bars or go to a more conventional shape after a while. Taking it out for a shakedown cruise on a group ride in a bit.

Iowegian

It isn't cheap and it is orange (OK in my book...) but this fork from Handsome cycles is the only one I could find for my 23+" 85 Stumpjumper.

https://handsomecycles.com/accessories.php

cooperryder

Thanks for the compliments folks.
And thanks to Andrew / realestvin7
Two of my fav frames have been provided courtesy of him.

I now have about 200 miles on the Cimarron since completing it & am digging it more & more.
Those fat street tires absorb the rough road shocks so well.
It is fun to be able to easily drop down from curbs as well.

I would like to eventually get a better set of wheels for it.
I ruined the rear one 2 weeks back that I was using with wide flange hubs so I used the hollow axle, bearing, & cones
from it to convert a nutted solid axle wheel I had on hand to one with Q/R.

At least the bike shop mechanic said he could not retrue it.
I expect a good wheel building person could do it. ..or at perhaps even rebuild it.
That's the next thing I would like to learn how to do.

Cockpit component list & why I picked them.

Over the years I have found my preferred position is a flat area on top of road bars and
usually 44 or 45cm wide bars work best for me. I tried a 48 cm road bar once & found it too wide for my likes.
About the only time I go to the drops is if facing a pretty good headwind or just needing another position
on a long ride. The Biomax drops seem made for my hands.
I just like the available hand positions of a road bar better than any mtb bar or swept back style bar that uses hand grips.

It's so cool to run across this thread & get inspired & decide to covert a mt bike to road bars.
I like the results a lot.

*Ritchey Biomax handlebars 44 or 45 c-c ...I forget.
They were all black & I spent about 1.5 hrs sanding only the center section using 220, then 400, then 600, then 2000 grit sandpaper & then some of my wife's silver polish to finish off to get a shine acceptable to me.

When wrapping the bars I ran out of tape about 1.5 " shy of completing so I just used the brown cloth
tape I had left over from a previous project. The look is kind of growing on me.

*Tektro RL340 Aero Levers with Q/R (Wasn't sure I would like as well as the 200A levers I had used in the past but I do like them even better.
www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=67&sortname=Lever&sort=1&fid=3

*Tektro RL720 Top Mounted Cross Levers ...I spend so much time with my hands in this area
these are just flat out convenient for me & I get great grip leverage when using them.
I now have them on 3 of my bikes plus my wife's bike.
www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=58&sortname=Lever&sort=1&fid=3
When trying to build up a frame on a tight budget it sure helps me to have these economical brake levers available.

*VeloOrange Stem
https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...0-17-rise.html
I went with a 8cm stem since I usually prefer a 58cm TT on my bikes but this Cimarron has a
60cm TT so I went shorter on the stem accordingly & it is working well for me.

*Soma High Rider Stem Adapter
https://store.somafab.com/sohiristad.html
Getting the bars up higher is easier on the old back & this thing will certainly get'em up there.
At first I tried the VO Orange Stem Adaptor but it did not get it as high as I desired. I do like the VO Orange adaptor on on my 25" frames
but this Cimarron is a 23" frame.

*Bar Ends are Microshift like RivBike offers although they offer only left side levers because the right side has no friction mode.
The right side is for 9 speed indexed & I am running a 7 speed rear so I have to double click on a couple of gears.
Anyone want to trade a left lever for a right indexed lever?

*Cable housing Silver braided from Velo Orange.
Someone mentioned the canti's. They are some vintage Dia Compe 981's that were take offs from some other bike.
They are working adequately with the levers but the pads are not great so new pads will be a soon to come upgrade.

FYI…Derailleurs are some early 90's Suntour XCE that were also some I had on hand & they are working well even they I guess they are not exactly high end but they helped on the budget factor as did the used wheels & older Exage Mountain Triple Crank with 28 x 38 x 48 Biopace rings I also had in the parts box. Thank the Lord for a decent parts box when doing a tight budget build.
That Tange Nova 300 headset is also original & I kinda like the unusual look about it.
Safe riding to you all & apologies this turned out so long.

cooperryder

Your Trek really turned out nice. Nice work.
It looks shiny new.
Hope you love the ride.

Sixty Fiver

We still make stems like these and they are actually pretty simple design wise... the fixing bolt is secured from below instead of up top so you get a seamless stem with the downside that it is not quite as easy to adjust as a stem with a top bolt.

Sixty Fiver

Excellent work...

cs1

Your 86 Diamondback looks great.

rotharpunc

crap I want one of these now...post for parts needed in ISO thread

wrk101

+1 Nicely done. I need to convert my old lugged Trek 950.

To the earlier question on sizing, there's quite a gap between my road bike size and my MTB size, 22 inch vs 18 inch. Tried a 19 inch MTB for a while, too big. YMMV.

Sixty Fiver

The effective top tube length is always most critical and mountain bikes tend to have longer top tubes relative to their seat tube or seat tube measurement and this varies between makers. Gary Fisher and Rocky Mountain are known for their long top tubes while Trek frames tend to be a little more square. Also consider how much higher an mtb sits at the bottom bracket compared to a road bike... this is why mtb's tend to be sized a few inches shorter at the seat tube and why a 19 inch mtb might have an effective top tube of 22 inches or even more.

My 55cm Kuwahara Cascade and Shasta have 58cm top tubes on their classic diamond frames while my modern Rocky Mountain Blizzard is a 50 cm frame with a 58cm top tube which makes the effective top tube on all three of these bikes the same.

Sixty Fiver

That is a good price.

Yo Spiff

I was talking with Doohickie the other day on a ride and the Surly Long Haul Trucker came up in the conversation. I decided my conversion is also an LHT, a Long Haul Trekker.

Doohickie

Cool thread. Would it be okay to post my hybrid-to-drop-bar conversion (1994 Nishiki Sport XRS)?

Chris_in_Miami

It's easier to ask for forgiveness than to get permission

Yo Spiff

Post it. It's a nice looking bike.

Of interest is when I did a search for info on that model, your bike (with the flat bars still on it) is the one that Google offered as images of that bike.

scozim 

Same question here for my 1989 Peugeot Limestone hybrid - almost have all the parts gathered.

Doohickie

Before:

Original configuration as the bike came to me in 2008, still with the store price tags from 1994 (on the handlebars)


Early commuting setup


Current setup


The handlebar setup


The mods
Drop bar mods
. Quill Stem Adapter (bought new at LBS)
. Handlebar Stem (closeout at LBS)
. Drop Bars & Tektro Brake Levers (bought together at a swap meet)
. Suntour Barcon Shifters (bought at a swap meet)
Lighting mods
. Wheelset with Schmidt SON 28 dynohub in front wheel (bought used)
. Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus headlight with standlight
. Busch & Müller Toplight Line Plus taillight with standlight
Comfort:
. Brooks B17 Saddle
. Cinelli cork handlebar tape (shellacked)

KonAaron Snake 

^^^ I like it! VERY cool build, especially like the lighting approach. The shellacked tape looks AWESOME!

All of these bikes have a lot of character and those little unique touches. I think that's why this is my favorite C and V thread.

Doohickie

It looked awesome when it was new. Now it looks rather worn. I don't mind the look, but be aware that shellac doesn't stick to well to cork tape at the spots you actually touch your handlebars.



I wouldn't have thought that honey brown and purple would go together, but the combo has grown on me.

KonAaron Snake 

Yeah...I would have gone black, but I think your approach worked.

A brass bell would really tie the room together

Doohickie

I had a brass bell on it but switched it out for a silver bell because the brass looked better on another bike.

Sixty Fiver

Cotton tape over cork plus shellac is the way to go.

frantik

thanks!

frantik

why did these never become popular? seems like a better location than bar end shifters

KonAaron Snake 

That's a great question...they look like Suntour Commands and I agree, they seem very sensible. I might have to try this out!