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Toe overlap

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Old 06-21-18, 07:44 AM
  #26  
RedBullFiXX
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I imagine there are plenty of bikes out there without Toeverlap, but is it really that hard to get used too ?
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Old 06-21-18, 12:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
For me, probably 95% of the scuffs are from switchback/hairpins on a combo pedestrian/cycling ramp and path to get over the George Washington Bridge NYC/NJ. It looks like a lot, but it's accumulated over a couple years of rides. Anyone else here do the GWB ramp and can speak to this?
Yep. The only reason I even know that three out of four of the bikes I own have toe overlap is because I live in Manhattan and cross the GWB several times a week. It's literally never an issue anywhere else but there...but I always have to be aware of it there.


Originally Posted by DiabloScott
I wouldn't want a bike designed not to have any overlap and then it wouldn't handle well at speed.
When Carl Strong was designing my custom frame back in 2010 he asked whether I cared about toe overlap or not. My comment to him was "I would prefer the bike to not have any toe overlap...unless eliminating toe overlap would in any way compromise the performance or handling of the bike."

The bike he built for me has toe overlap.
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Old 06-21-18, 12:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
To my mind, toe overlap is epic fail; it just shouldn't be a thing that's tolerated. Aside from messing with low-speed turns, it really interferes with track-standing at the lights. Lucky for me I only get it on bikes that are too small for me.

But for women, kids and shorter guys, I reckon the situation blows. 650C front wheels should totally be a thing on smaller bikes. I don't think 11t is the answer for gearing, either - if you want 11t on 700C, where are you on 650C? And it makes the gaps between gears unnecessarily wide anyway.

Another reason for smaller front wheels aside from toe overlap is crazy-short head tubes, which are hard on the headset and frame, and get to a minimum length and then leave the stack height potentially too high for smaller riders wanting an aggressive position.
This is all theory without any connection to reality. "Hard on the frame"? Come on.
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Old 06-21-18, 10:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by caloso
Unless your bike is a fixed gear and you're constantly doing low-speed U-turns, I don't see this as a real issue. If you need to turn the bars that far, learn to coast through the turn.
Amazingly, I have noticed most riders do not lean the bike at all when they turn.

Don't have to turn the bars nearly as much if you just lean the bike over a bit.
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Old 06-22-18, 12:15 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by rgconner
Amazingly, I have noticed most riders do not lean the bike at all when they turn.

Don't have to turn the bars nearly as much if you just lean the bike over a bit.
It simply isn't possible to turn a bike over a few MPH without leaning. You would just fall to the outside of the turn.
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Old 06-22-18, 05:34 AM
  #31  
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You guys forget that I ran a poll thread a while back on this topic, https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...-question.html, that showed fairly conclusively that toe overlap was more prevalent in smaller frames and less so in larger. The frame geometry differences are more significant than the foot size differences.
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Old 06-22-18, 05:36 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
To my mind, toe overlap is epic fail; it just shouldn't be a thing that's tolerated. Aside from messing with low-speed turns, it really interferes with track-standing at the lights. Lucky for me I only get it on bikes that are too small for me.

But for women, kids and shorter guys, I reckon the situation blows. 650C front wheels should totally be a thing on smaller bikes. I don't think 11t is the answer for gearing, either - if you want 11t on 700C, where are you on 650C? And it makes the gaps between gears unnecessarily wide anyway.

Another reason for smaller front wheels aside from toe overlap is crazy-short head tubes, which are hard on the headset and frame, and get to a minimum length and then leave the stack height potentially too high for smaller riders wanting an aggressive position.
If you suffer with toe overlap, you need to sharpen your handling skills. Toe overlap is a normal aspect of bicycling. It causes no problems and doesn't need to be corrected.
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Old 06-22-18, 05:52 AM
  #33  
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I notice mine mostly at stop lights. For whatever reason, I sometimes turn the front wheel the way of my forward foot. During normal riding, there's no problem.
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Old 06-22-18, 07:25 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
You guys forget that I ran a poll thread a while back on this topic, https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...-question.html, that showed fairly conclusively that toe overlap was more prevalent in smaller frames and less so in larger. The frame geometry differences are more significant than the foot size differences.
Careful with wording lest people conclude what you're saying incorrectly.. your poll showed that more than half of the respondents with larger frames had toe overlap; less than half of larger-framed bikes did not have toe overlap (25 vs 19). So for larger frames, toe overlap was more prevalent than no toe overlap.
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Old 06-22-18, 08:48 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
Careful with wording lest people conclude what you're saying incorrectly.. your poll showed that more than half of the respondents with larger frames had toe overlap; less than half of larger-framed bikes did not have toe overlap (25 vs 19). So for larger frames, toe overlap was more prevalent than no toe overlap.
In smaller frames the score was 53 yes to 7 no. A whopping 88% of the frames had overlap. In larger frames the score was 25 yes to 19 no. Only 57% had overlap. So you are right, but so am I. The fraction of overlapping was much higher in smaller frames. If I had split large and small at 55-56 cm instead of 54-55, the larger frames might well have had more noes than yeses. The split I chose was just arbitrary. A distribution by size, cm by cm from say 46 to 63, would surely show the weighting of overlap in smaller sizes.
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Old 06-22-18, 10:22 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
In smaller frames the score was 53 yes to 7 no. A whopping 88% of the frames had overlap. In larger frames the score was 25 yes to 19 no. Only 57% had overlap. So you are right, but so am I. The fraction of overlapping was much higher in smaller frames. If I had split large and small at 55-56 cm instead of 54-55, the larger frames might well have had more noes than yeses. The split I chose was just arbitrary. A distribution by size, cm by cm from say 46 to 63, would surely show the weighting of overlap in smaller sizes.
My guess.. your poll is likely highly correlated as to the ownership of road race geometry vs endurance geometry bikes.
Eg. a 52cm Endurance frame, generally has about the same wheelbase as a 60cm road-race frame (arbitrarily using Trek Domane vs Emonda as proxies)

Last edited by Sy Reene; 06-22-18 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 06-22-18, 10:40 AM
  #37  
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Riding fast, no problems will occur ,

it's the sharp, slow speed turns, where you need be mindful of that issue..
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Old 06-22-18, 10:45 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by caloso
Unless your bike is a fixed gear and you're constantly doing low-speed U-turns, I don't see this as a real issue. If you need to turn the bars that far, learn to coast through the turn.
Yeah, toe overlap on fix gears can get really interesting. I've broken fenders when I have caught my toe on the hardware and realized it is either the fender or me.

Ben
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Old 06-22-18, 12:40 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
You guys forget that I ran a poll thread a while back on this topic, https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...-question.html, that showed fairly conclusively that toe overlap was more prevalent in smaller frames and less so in larger. The frame geometry differences are more significant than the foot size differences.
You didn't have to run a poll. Front center is on most geo charts these days.
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Old 06-22-18, 12:44 PM
  #40  
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I have minor toe overlap on my Black mountain road - exacerbated by 700x28s + bulkier touring SPDs. Every once in awhile It’ll surprise me with a little toe tap, including the GWB ramp, track stand stops at lights, and other sharp turning maneuvers, usually happens at very slow speeds. Doesn’t bother me at all really, since I really like so many other ride qualities and comfort this bike has.
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Old 06-22-18, 02:02 PM
  #41  
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Riding 48-51cm frames I have had toe overlap on all my bikes from race bikes to endurance to cyclocross and adventure/gravel touring. The only time it is a problem is cyclocross where pedaling and steering (not just leaning) simulataneously is necessary. After awhile you learn how to time your pedal strokes so they don't interfere. The worst was endoing on an off camber when I got my foot caught on the opposite side of the tire, luckily the mud/grass was soft.
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Old 06-22-18, 02:07 PM
  #42  
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I have a 52cm Fuji Sportif road bike, a 54cm Raleigh RXM cyclocross, and a 56cm Diverge, and they all have toe overlap, as did the Fuji Cross I test-rode. It drives me crazy. I'm coming from a lifetime of only riding mountain bikes where it was not a thing.
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Old 06-22-18, 03:27 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
My guess.. your poll is likely highly correlated as to the ownership of road race geometry vs endurance geometry bikes.
Eg. a 52cm Endurance frame, generally has about the same wheelbase as a 60cm road-race frame (arbitrarily using Trek Domane vs Emonda as proxies)
Perhaps so. For sure it is correlated to what folks actually own.
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Old 06-23-18, 10:27 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DiabloScott
It's especially problematic with fixed gears, not because of the geometry but because you can't re-position your feet. Mostly not a big deal except for slow-speed maneuvers like in parking lots and driveways. You learn to deal with it - I wouldn't want a bike designed not to have any overlap and then it wouldn't handle well at speed.

I have managed to trap my foot on the wrong side of the wheel on my track bike in a low speed maneuver.
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Old 06-23-18, 11:13 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by rgconner
Amazingly, I have noticed most riders do not lean the bike at all when they turn.

Don't have to turn the bars nearly as much if you just lean the bike over a bit.
That is absurd. You can’t turn a bicycle without leaning it. That is how it works.
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Old 06-23-18, 02:04 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker

That is absurd. You can’t turn a bicycle without leaning it. That is how it works.
Correct, which is why they turn like freight trains and often have to dab their foot down to make the turn.

Or worse, they STOP, bringing the whole group to a halt.
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Old 06-23-18, 11:18 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker

That is absurd. You can’t turn a bicycle without leaning it. That is how it works.
I think we're talking about low speed maneuvers, which is pretty much the only time that the wheel is turned far enough over for toe overlap to be a factor. At such low speeds, leaning is not part of the turn.
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Old 06-23-18, 11:45 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by rgconner
Correct, which is why they turn like freight trains and often have to dab their foot down to make the turn.

Or worse, they STOP, bringing the whole group to a halt.
Who are you talking about that ride in groups and puts their feet down to turn? I've never seen anyone ride a bike that way outside a nursery school.
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Old 06-23-18, 11:53 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Who are you talking about that ride in groups and puts their feet down to turn? I've never seen anyone ride a bike that way outside a nursery school.
Sadly, some of my fellow Sacramento Bike Hikers. While they are all great people, their bike handling skills can vary widely.

Particularly the sharp downhill turns off the Watt Bridge and similar spots cause a pile up if the group is together..
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Old 06-23-18, 11:57 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Litespud
I think we're talking about low speed maneuvers, which is pretty much the only time that the wheel is turned far enough over for toe overlap to be a factor. At such low speeds, leaning is not part of the turn.
But it should still be part of the turn regardless of the speed, otherwise you don't turn sharply, but instead turn like a jackknifed 18 wheeler.

Even on a motorcycle, you lean the bike at low speeds, lean yourself at higher speeds otherwise you turn like crap.


The dynamics are the same:

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