Need a new bright light
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Need a new bright light
Lots of them out there. I've narrowed my search to the L&M Urban 1000, the Lezyne Macro 1100XL and the new Niterider 1200. I also considered the Cygolite 1100, but decided against it. All of these lights are super bright, but I really don't need 1200 lumens for an hour or ride time. For that matter, I really don't need 1000 lumens for 1:30 either. So, I've been looking at their secondary settings. Niterider has 550 lumens for 3 hours. L&M has 500 lumens for 3 hours. Lezyne has 650 lumens for 2:30. The Cygolite is hard to tell - I think I found somewhere they are about 380 lumens for a couple hours or something like that and their boost is up to 1100. It just doesn't seem to be bright enough on that second setting or last long enough.
Pricing for the Cygolite is around $75, Lezyne is $79, Niterider $100 and that L&M sucker is $120. I like the L&M looks, but not for an extra $20-$40. I'm leaning towards the Lezyne. 650 lumens for 2:30 hours is like a 45-50 mile ride for me... which would leave me as cold as a Popsicle when the sun ain't up in the winter. It should be plenty. Anyone have any thoughts or experience with these lights? Maybe someone can make a different suggestion?
Thanks!
Pricing for the Cygolite is around $75, Lezyne is $79, Niterider $100 and that L&M sucker is $120. I like the L&M looks, but not for an extra $20-$40. I'm leaning towards the Lezyne. 650 lumens for 2:30 hours is like a 45-50 mile ride for me... which would leave me as cold as a Popsicle when the sun ain't up in the winter. It should be plenty. Anyone have any thoughts or experience with these lights? Maybe someone can make a different suggestion?
Thanks!
#2
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You could maintain 20 MPH for 2h30m at night except that it's cold? (It's ok, I am certain I could not, and the cold wouldn't even be the reason.
Whatever duration your light lasts on high, it's never enough. Whatever duration it lasts on medium, it's usually more than a person would need for typical night training rides. And whatever duration the light lasts on low, it is never enough for endurance events that run through the night.
I had an old NightRider (halogen) that lasted me long enough to do 30 mile rides. I never ran it down in a single thirty-mile ride.
I replaced the NightRider with an L&M Urban 900... or maybe 1000; I forget now. That lasted me about five months before a pothole jarred the bike hard enough to cause the light's case to break off at the mount point. Up until that time, the light was fantastic. On medium I could get over three hours, which is long enough to outlast my longest night training rides (usually up to about 26 miles).
When it came time to replace that light, I went with a Light & Motion Taz 1200. It's a little heavier, but the mount point is reinforced with a screw, and the case seems more sturdy. The beam pattern is superior too. So at this point, and until it fails forcing me to find something better, it's the light I recommend.
In the back I have a CygloLite HostShot Pro 150.
Whatever duration your light lasts on high, it's never enough. Whatever duration it lasts on medium, it's usually more than a person would need for typical night training rides. And whatever duration the light lasts on low, it is never enough for endurance events that run through the night.
I had an old NightRider (halogen) that lasted me long enough to do 30 mile rides. I never ran it down in a single thirty-mile ride.
I replaced the NightRider with an L&M Urban 900... or maybe 1000; I forget now. That lasted me about five months before a pothole jarred the bike hard enough to cause the light's case to break off at the mount point. Up until that time, the light was fantastic. On medium I could get over three hours, which is long enough to outlast my longest night training rides (usually up to about 26 miles).
When it came time to replace that light, I went with a Light & Motion Taz 1200. It's a little heavier, but the mount point is reinforced with a screw, and the case seems more sturdy. The beam pattern is superior too. So at this point, and until it fails forcing me to find something better, it's the light I recommend.
In the back I have a CygloLite HostShot Pro 150.
#3
☢
Lots of them out there. I've narrowed my search to the L&M Urban 1000, the Lezyne Macro 1100XL and the new Niterider 1200. I also considered the Cygolite 1100, but decided against it. All of these lights are super bright, but I really don't need 1200 lumens for an hour or ride time. For that matter, I really don't need 1000 lumens for 1:30 either. So, I've been looking at their secondary settings. Niterider has 550 lumens for 3 hours. L&M has 500 lumens for 3 hours. Lezyne has 650 lumens for 2:30. The Cygolite is hard to tell - I think I found somewhere they are about 380 lumens for a couple hours or something like that and their boost is up to 1100. It just doesn't seem to be bright enough on that second setting or last long enough.
Pricing for the Cygolite is around $75, Lezyne is $79, Niterider $100 and that L&M sucker is $120. I like the L&M looks, but not for an extra $20-$40. I'm leaning towards the Lezyne. 650 lumens for 2:30 hours is like a 45-50 mile ride for me... which would leave me as cold as a Popsicle when the sun ain't up in the winter. It should be plenty. Anyone have any thoughts or experience with these lights? Maybe someone can make a different suggestion?
Thanks!
Pricing for the Cygolite is around $75, Lezyne is $79, Niterider $100 and that L&M sucker is $120. I like the L&M looks, but not for an extra $20-$40. I'm leaning towards the Lezyne. 650 lumens for 2:30 hours is like a 45-50 mile ride for me... which would leave me as cold as a Popsicle when the sun ain't up in the winter. It should be plenty. Anyone have any thoughts or experience with these lights? Maybe someone can make a different suggestion?
Thanks!
I wish it had a direct access to the power setting or at least a feedback click power up/down. Also, keep in mind when shopping for a light, its not just a matter of power output, but beam pattern as well. NR has one of the best in the business, so be sure to check reviews to make sure you're getting a beam pattern (lens) that defines objects rather than just a bright scattered light that reflects back a lot of glare.
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Thanks for the thoughts. I went with the Lezyne. That second setting was just a little too compelling to ignore - especially for the price.
#5
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Those are all good brands. One would probably be happy with any of them.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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https://www.rei.com/product/122366/l...ont-bike-light
I own three Light & Motion products including the one linked above. Construction is robust and beam pattern is so good that it seems much brighter than it is.
Some complain that the tab breaks off the light so that it cannot be inserted into the mount and conclude that the light is poor quality but this is invariably because they are removing the light from the mount. The light is supposed to stay attached to the mount and the mount removed from the bike using the rubber strap. I have not had a problem in many years.
-Tim-
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A bit late now as OP has already purchased a light but for future reference...
https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide...lus-how-choose
From the beam shots the Cateye Volt 800 looks pretty good - better than a number of other lights with more lumens.
https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide...lus-how-choose
From the beam shots the Cateye Volt 800 looks pretty good - better than a number of other lights with more lumens.
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Light & Motion Urban 900 - $74.93
https://www.rei.com/product/122366/l...ont-bike-light
I own three Light & Motion products including the one linked above. Construction is robust and beam pattern is so good that it seems much brighter than it is.
Some complain that the tab breaks off the light so that it cannot be inserted into the mount and conclude that the light is poor quality but this is invariably because they are removing the light from the mount. The light is supposed to stay attached to the mount and the mount removed from the bike using the rubber strap. I have not had a problem in many years.
-Tim-
https://www.rei.com/product/122366/l...ont-bike-light
I own three Light & Motion products including the one linked above. Construction is robust and beam pattern is so good that it seems much brighter than it is.
Some complain that the tab breaks off the light so that it cannot be inserted into the mount and conclude that the light is poor quality but this is invariably because they are removing the light from the mount. The light is supposed to stay attached to the mount and the mount removed from the bike using the rubber strap. I have not had a problem in many years.
-Tim-
#9
don't try this at home.
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A bit late now as OP has already purchased a light but for future reference...
https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide...lus-how-choose
From the beam shots the Cateye Volt 800 looks pretty good - better than a number of other lights with more lumens.
https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide...lus-how-choose
From the beam shots the Cateye Volt 800 looks pretty good - better than a number of other lights with more lumens.
I'd rather have a smooth edge transition and an evenly wide beam. The edges are somewhat distracting to me.
But the ones with narrower bright centers will project farther down the road, so they can be better on faster downhills.
#10
Cycleway town
I bought my light and battery separately, saved me a lot of money for the performance.
The li-po battery pack is 9800mah at 12v, it's the size of a superkings cigarette packet, has a built-in on-off switch and cost 20 quid.
The lamp was a motorbike Cree led front fog lamp, very strong diode, ULM U3 I think. Claims of stupid lumens of course, 5000 from one diode... more relevant is the claim of 10w power consumption. Voltage input 12v-60v. Big glass magnifier isn't light, at least in weight, but gives it a good projection (broad and consistent range of flood and throw). That was like 15 quid.
So for 35 quid I had the brightest light in town, that lasted.
(I still do, it's now rigged into my 48v e-bikes computer).
The li-po battery pack is 9800mah at 12v, it's the size of a superkings cigarette packet, has a built-in on-off switch and cost 20 quid.
The lamp was a motorbike Cree led front fog lamp, very strong diode, ULM U3 I think. Claims of stupid lumens of course, 5000 from one diode... more relevant is the claim of 10w power consumption. Voltage input 12v-60v. Big glass magnifier isn't light, at least in weight, but gives it a good projection (broad and consistent range of flood and throw). That was like 15 quid.
So for 35 quid I had the brightest light in town, that lasted.
(I still do, it's now rigged into my 48v e-bikes computer).
#11
☢
That Cateye has a sharper edge cutoff and a brighter center beam than the Lezyne in your link.
I'd rather have a smooth edge transition and an evenly wide beam. The edges are somewhat distracting to me.
But the ones with narrower bright centers will project farther down the road, so they can be better on faster downhills.
I'd rather have a smooth edge transition and an evenly wide beam. The edges are somewhat distracting to me.
But the ones with narrower bright centers will project farther down the road, so they can be better on faster downhills.
Beam pattern, while related, can provide focus and/or spread. Both are needed, in a good light typically provides both to various degrees. With the best designed lights, there shouldn't be any highly noticeable distinction (hot spots) between the distance focus and spread beam patterns.
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Lots of them out there. I've narrowed my search to the L&M Urban 1000, the Lezyne Macro 1100XL and the new Niterider 1200. I also considered the Cygolite 1100, but decided against it. All of these lights are super bright, but I really don't need 1200 lumens for an hour or ride time. For that matter, I really don't need 1000 lumens for 1:30 either. So, I've been looking at their secondary settings. Niterider has 550 lumens for 3 hours. L&M has 500 lumens for 3 hours. Lezyne has 650 lumens for 2:30. The Cygolite is hard to tell - I think I found somewhere they are about 380 lumens for a couple hours or something like that and their boost is up to 1100. It just doesn't seem to be bright enough on that second setting or last long enough.
...
...
I bought my light and battery separately, saved me a lot of money for the performance.
The li-po battery pack is 9800mah at 12v, it's the size of a superkings cigarette packet, has a built-in on-off switch and cost 20 quid.
The lamp was a motorbike Cree led front fog lamp, very strong diode, ULM U3 I think. Claims of stupid lumens of course, 5000 from one diode... more relevant is the claim of 10w power consumption. Voltage input 12v-60v. Big glass magnifier isn't light, at least in weight, but gives it a good projection (broad and consistent range of flood and throw). That was like 15 quid.
So for 35 quid I had the brightest light in town, that lasted.
(I still do, it's now rigged into my 48v e-bikes computer).
The li-po battery pack is 9800mah at 12v, it's the size of a superkings cigarette packet, has a built-in on-off switch and cost 20 quid.
The lamp was a motorbike Cree led front fog lamp, very strong diode, ULM U3 I think. Claims of stupid lumens of course, 5000 from one diode... more relevant is the claim of 10w power consumption. Voltage input 12v-60v. Big glass magnifier isn't light, at least in weight, but gives it a good projection (broad and consistent range of flood and throw). That was like 15 quid.
So for 35 quid I had the brightest light in town, that lasted.
(I still do, it's now rigged into my 48v e-bikes computer).
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